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Thank you for the information! I did another one with a thicker layer on it and it only turned out darker. The main issue is starting with a lower resolution image. I wanted to do it as a surprise and this was the best image I could get without asking my friend for the original which is likely better. Sounds like you are doing a grey scale where I am using Jarvis dithering. I really should play more with the grey scale as my first experiment worked well. 80 watt laser at 12.5% max would be about 10 watts to 0 watts at 3,000 mm/min. My diode laser is 10 watts max so I am already at or below your powers. (Did you hear any jealousy in my typing?) ;-) I really need to play around more using the grey scale set up with TiO2. It sounds like you have it dialed in for your laser. How to you apply the TiO2 to your tiles?

@CNCATHome I was doing 3 to 1 with alcohol and titanium dioxide but I just starting trying it with 1 part Elmer's glue. I like using no glue better and spraying it with a fine mist spray bottle but the bottle keeps getting clogged and i have to get another one. I actually don't do grey scale. I haven't been able to get a good picture with it. I try a couple times, get frustrated with it then go back to the way I know how to do it. I process most of my pictures through imagR and do kasia or baning algorithm at 318dpi. If I do go through just lightburn, I'll do stucki or jarvis.

@@sdrawkcab_ssa - I have had several people suggest the school glue thing and I just haven't tried it and I really don't want to. ;-) I have been using an inexpensive all-in-one airbrush with good results. I can keep it clean so it doesn't clog. I keep my mix in a spray bottle but I don't actually use the sprayer. I even removed the pickup tube so I can't use it without putting that back in place. The image I started with was 340X440 pixels. On a 4" tile, at best that would only be 110dpi and I needed the width to fit so I was in the 85 or less dpi range.

This was done using the Genmitsu LC-50 + which is rated as a blue, 10 watt LED/Diode laser. The glass does turn out well. A great option would be to use your idea of inverting the image. After cleaning off the TiO2, spray paint that white, silver, or some other color. When it is put into a frame, the TiO2 side would be behind the glass and really look like a photo. With it on the front of the glass, it casts a slight shadow onto the background. The thicker the glass, the more pronounced that is.

Both great ideas to increase the holding capacity. I was thinking a thin piece of neoprene rubber would also be a good add. These end stops are really intended to help create a reference location for repeatability between multiple parts and not for clamping. Still, they can work for both.

​@@CNCATHome I wouldn’t recommend using rubber, as its flexibility can affect holding and repeatability. Sandpaper, on the other hand, doesn’t compress and provides significantly more friction compared to any flat surface. Fine-grain sandpaper, in particular, can increase friction by up to 20 times.

@@axelSixtySix - Absolutely with the repeatability. Those end stops are designed to hole as much as they are to position. I will have to try the sandpaper trick if I am unable to use a better clamp. Thank you for the input. 👍

I would love to know more about your method. I have had other viewers talk about dipping the tile into a mix. Can you explain your process and talk about the mixture you use? I have had good luck with my airbrush when doing 4 to 6 tiles but it is a pain to clean. There is also some drips when I am not careful and as long as that is not on an already coated tile, I can clean it up. have tried pouring a mix onto a tile but it was too thick.

Thank you for the input. I have a zeroing template for this machine that I can use to get repeatable alignment when doing multiple cards. I have also made templates out of card stock that work well for multiple items. Even masking tape as a template can work and is easy to set up. So many options and they are all good ones! :-) You had a question about resizing the original artwork before doing the trace. I try to do my trace while it is at its original size and do all of my resizing once once it is vectors. I do this to maintain the highest level of accuracy I can as a vector doesn't care how big it is and will reduce aliasing. For some reason, I had it in my head that Print and Cut would not only resize my image at burn but also alter its aspect ratio. That was WAY off. ;-) Once I realized that, I did the resize and altered aspect ratio to fit my business card template. I still used Print and Cut to fit my randomly placed material.

Sorry to hear that. Part of my brain thought that the down draft exhaust I have would hold that in place. The problem is there is too much open area to really make any difference. If I were to block a bunch of the honeycomb, that could help. But a little tape on the bake worked great in this case.

@CNCATHome yes tape happened on the next try

Ya, that was a total brain fart, the heat was assumed. So you know what that makes me. When all is said and done, the fire blanket did work. It really helped starve the fire from the oxygen. It doesn't help with the heat or fuel. As you pointed out, you need all three and this can greatly reduce the oxygen.

That is such a great question! I have been thinking the same thing. My gut say no as the resizing is all done outside of the settings. But my curiosity says to try it! Now that you have suggested the same thing, I will do a quick test to see what happens. :-)

Before you get a new sprayer, thin your mix to see if that helps keep things clear. I only spray 2 to 6 tiles at a time and have had good luck with my cheapo sprayers. Both have a 0.3mm nozzle. The funny thing is they are both listed as "beauty equipment. One has a single pressure and the other has two settings. I use both at their highest setting.

That is a unique question. :-) I looked up the specification on this and they show 6.34oz of blowing force. That converts to 180 grams. I was going to say that the cone is not removable but then I never had tried that. It seems it does come off. There were no specification on the force without the cone on.

@CNCATHome thank you for the info, you can measure the thrust using a weighing scale yourselves otherwise...

@@chetanpathare2853 - Unfortunately, I don't have a small scale on which I could perform that test. :-(

Since this video, I have switched to using an airbrush to apply a much thinner mixture (about 3:1) and have gotten great coverage. :-)

Liquid milk! Nice analogy on that. I am currently using a mix about 3:1 with a drop or two of food coloring. Seems to be nice and thin and doesn't clog the gun. I would have no issue going to 4:1 on that too.

Thank you for that. FYI - I did get to see your original comment too. I am glad you were able to find what you needed. The whole thing with the Roman numeral for 4 is kind of interesting. In "modern" Roman numbering, 4 is IV. I find it funny to call that modern Roman numbering as that has been the standard for hundreds of years. BUT back in the day, 4 was done as IIII and from what I have found, is still acceptable to do it that way. I also find it interesting that on clock faces using Roman numbers, they still use IIII for 4 o'clock. When I first heard about this years ago, I didn't believe it and was surprised that I had not seen that before. I have my great grandfather's pocket watch and it has Roman numbers. When I pulled that out, sure enough, IIII. Right in front of my for years and I never noticed. Now it is something you will always look for when you see a clock with Roman numerals on the face.

That is a great suggestion! Since this video, I have started to add a drop or two of food coloring and it makes the world of difference. So much easier to see the coverage.

Thank you for asking. In this group I play Bari Saxophone.

I am not sure to what you are referring. What are "orbs" and where are you seeing them in this video?

Great question! For this process, absolutely interchangeable. It will likely change the drying time a little which isn't always a bad thing. ;-) It tends to be cheaper to use isopropyl alcohol too.

Hello Pat from Australia! You are about as far away from here as you can be and still be on the planet! I am located in central Minnesota in the USA. ;-) Great questions! Thank you for asking. I will see if I can answer them for you. CO2 laser, will this process work? I have no clue. I don't know if the frequency of the laser has anything to do with the transformation process or not or if it is the concentrated heat the laser provides. It is something that is easy to set up and is not a bank breaker. I would say to give it a go and see what happens. DPI - LightBurn uses a LPI (lines per inch) measurement and on my Genmitsu LC-50 +, I am using 254 LPI or .1 mm Line Interval. On my AtomStack P7, I am using 300 LPI or .0847mm line interval. This is due to the highly focused laser dot this unit has. It requires me to make more passes to get equivalent coverage. That being said, you will need to find what works best for your laser and its laser dot size. The mix I have been using is a 3:1 of denatured alcohol to Ti02 mix with a drop or two of food coloring. The coloring makes it so much easier to see how even the coverage is. The whole "white" glue thing I have yet to try. A mix of water, glue, and TiO2 has been suggested by several viewers who say they are getting good results. The white glue is a basic water based school glue. That is what we call it here. I use the DNA because it evaporates quickly and I like to coat the tiles and get them right onto the laser. The glue/water mix will dry more slowly which should allow the mix to better self level and still be easily cleaned with water. It should also be more stable and resilient on the tile. TiO2 with DNA will brush off practically by looking at it. ;-) Once the DNA evaporates, it is just a light dusting of TiO2 on the tile with nothing really holding it on there. It does still well enough that I can use my basic air assist without blowing it off. But a light touch of your finger will easily remove it from the tile. I hope this helps, Pat. Good luck implementing this process with your laser. It should be very fast with 100 watts available. We are transitioning into fall/autumn here and you should be entering your spring season. Enjoy playing with your laser and trying new thing. 🙂

I was thinking the exact same thing. I don't know if this is generic or specific to this unit. My hope is it is generic and they are plentiful. I did a quick search for "mini vacuum replacement HEPA filter" and several results look about the right size. I think it is generic. I will contact the company from where I got this to see if they have any specifications or a part number for replacements. I found something that might be the right thing. The measurements are close: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807322419283.html?src=google&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa I did reach out to the company that sent this to me and if they have information, I will add it to your post! 🙂

Update on the HEPA filter. I heard back from FORTAKASY. She said they currently do not have replacement filters in the USA. Something to keep in mind I guess. The filter seems sturdy and was easily flown clean. I don't plan to use it as a vacuum very much so I am not too worried about it.

That is awesome! I saw this back in 2002 when I was contracting at General Mills. I was there early and it was blinking away at someone's desk and I wondered what it was. The more I looked at it, I realized that the LEDs were changing every second. That is when it hit me that it was a binary clock. I put that on my Christmas list and a year later, I got this from my parents. The founder of the company I work for was fascinated by it. When he came into my office, back when we actually had offices, he would just stare at it for a while. Is yours the red one like I have or did you get the blue one?

@@CNCATHome Mine is red.

Great question. I have not gotten it to work on plastics or metal. This method work great on ceramics and glass. The other materials I have tried, not so much. ;-)

That is unfortunate that you had to stop watching. That video was from a few years back. I did stop adding music in when I was talking. I do add in back ground music if there is a long stretch of video with no corresponding voice over. Thank you for the advice and be assured that I implemented that long ago. 🙂

Thank you for the information. I will have to check out your channel.

I found this while doing a preliminary search for dragon images when I did the dice box for my brother. I did a basic search through google search on images. The key word was dragon. I filtered the results by only showing line drawings. This was one of the first results. The page from where this came is: www.rawpixel.com/search/japanese%20dragon%20drawing?page=1&path=_topics&sort=curated

I did a basic search through google search on images. The key word was dragon. I filtered the results by only showing line drawings. This was one of the first results. The page from where this came is: www.rawpixel.com/search/japanese%20dragon%20drawing?page=1&path=_topics&sort=curated

Essa é uma ótima pergunta. Obrigado por perguntar. Eu não tentei tal coisa. O processo de TiO2 funciona muito bem em vidro e funcionaria bem em um espelho de vidro também. Não acho que o reflexo do espelho seria um problema, pois a energia do laser é absorvida pelo TiO2 e pouco passaria para a superfície espelhada. Essa é uma ideia interessante e eu acho que funcionaria bem. A outra opção seria queimar a parte de trás do espelho e remover o revestimento espelhado.

@@CNCATHome Entendo. muito obrigado por responder e pela atenciosa resposta, agradeço também a dica de fazer o processo do modo que você sugeriu. Um excelente final de semana para você.

Great question! I got these lights about 3-1/2 years ago. Here is a link to Amazon. It looks like you might be able to get them still: www.amazon.com/dp/B07T8FBZC2?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title

That is a great question. My current mix is about 3:1. 3 parts DNA to 1 part TiO2. I add in a drop or two of food coloring. That mixture has worked well in my airbrush. The coloring really helps see the application.

Thanks. I'm gonna try it to mark steel with a CO2

Not sure about anyone trying a roller. I had someone mention they basically dipped the face of the tile into their mixture and got good results. I would think a very thin mix would self level when brushed on. I had issues with brush streaks and I didn't thin my mix very much. I was looking into how glass and tin plates were coated back in the day for photography. It seems the emulation they used was quite thin and was easy to get an even coat. From that, my takeaway was using a thinner mix. That is what I do in the airbrush and it has worked well.

Gonna try a thinner mix with DNA. My experiments with DNA and hand sanitizer were bust. I couldn’t get an even distribution. More later…

@@bresnik - Experiments are never a bust if you find something out. ;-) There is a plus and minus in using DNA. Plus is that is drys very quickly. The minus is that it drys very quickly. I haven't tried just using water or a water white glue mixture to suspend my TiO2. I have had people comment on both methods. Water would evaporate much slower and would give more time for the TiO2 to distribute more evenly. The glue would help stuff stick to the tile before burning/etching and would be much slower to dry.

It totally screams for that. The issue came in on the placement of the hole and the size of the hole. I would have needed to make the image larger and the tag larger to accommodate AND the space from the edge of the tag to the wrench would make the hole too far away from the edge. If I had changed the shape of the tag, I could have maybe made that work. I did spend some time working on that as it totally says "Put the hole here!"

@@CNCATHome well you tried

It was begging to have the hole in the end of that wrench on the logo. I thought about it and as you pointed out, it really wouldn't work. Great idea though! 🙂 Any time you can integrate design into functionality, it is a big win.

That is an interesting hypothesis. I love the idea. There are a couple things you could try with that. One would be to put glaze on the clay and burn something, then wash the rest of the glaze off and re-glaze with a different glaze and bake the whole thing. Or try burning in the clay before applying any glaze. After the burn try applying a glaze and shove it in the kiln. I question how well the laser would cure the clay but with something thin, it might produce something very unique! 🙂

I am glad you got a good laugh from this one. That is what it is all about. All of the "Will It Burn" videos I have done are supposed to be funny things to try. Have I finally lost it? Not at all. Just ask anyone who has known me for years and they will agree that I lost it LONG ago. 🤣

@@CNCATHome You're too much... Go for it. We need more of you on RUclips especially we laserers.... Thanks

Great advice. I started doing that some time back and it really helps see what you are doing. 🙂

Great advice. I have since added food coloring and that makes it so much easier to see how it is being applied. With this air brush, it is basically only a single action and the air is constantly going even with your finger off the trigger. So you do not control the air with the trigger, it only pulled the pin back to control how much is coming out. You can set a maximum if you need to make sure not to have too much coming out.

Thank you! Working in 2D, all we need are two points to align and scale things with each other. 🙂

Thank you for watching. I do hope it was helpful in some way.

😂 - Good catch! That's funny. I did the business card project quite some time ago and I fixed that for the burn and obviously I didn't save the change. On a side note, he is my brother-in-law and I engraved a pencil for him where I made up a new title for him that included Supreme Leader or something like that. He is a big StarWars fan too.

That's great! I have mine on my desk and it up out of the way until I need a good task light. That is nice there is such a great coupon on the product right now. That was good timing on your part to be able to get that at with such a discount! 🙂

I agree. LightBurn always has impressed me with its functionality and ease of use for the price. There are some smart and clever people on that development team. 🙂

That is an interesting idea. The blue masking tape is more difficult to cut through due to its color relation to the blue laser. At best, it would slow down any cutting into your table. I do not use a laser attachment with my 3018. I did add a wooden waste board to protect the table and to insure flatness in relationship to the cutting tool. There should be a video on that. Let me look that up... I guess not. There is a video on modifications I had made to my 3018 and you can see how I integrated the wooded waste board: ruclips.net/video/AXxuej8602c/видео.htmlsi=XFQW6WOEmc4-byxp

@@CNCATHome thanks!

Just engraving and cutting acrylic. I had not heard of Rowmark before. I looked it up and it just acrylic but layered. I am going to have to give that a try! That looks like it could be fun to try both for the laser and for the CNC router. Thank you for the idea! 🙂

@@CNCATHome yeah they make it with brushed metal finishes and glow in the dark and all kinds of stuff. Was always curious if it would work with a diode laser. Also curious to know how it does with a CNC too.

@@chubbyboy2242 It etches/engraves really well with my 10w diode. I can also cut thru 2mm pretty easy although I was having problems with clean cuts (edges). I'm brand new to the laser world so I have a lot to learn about tweaking in the settings. Just bought a 10W to make my own aircraft panels. So the Rowmark was an obvious choice to try. If you do try some make sure you order the "LaserMax" style as it is made for engraving. That's not to say the other kind won't work. I ordered a sample of the non laser and it cut and engraved just fine, but has more toxic fumes than the LaserMax. I'm actually having more luck with just cutting white acrylic and then painting it black before the etching process.

Very interesting. I had a similar thing happen with a ceramic tile and was never able to duplicate it. I don't know what I did differently on that batch of tiles. I will have to try using it on black acrylic to see if I get similar results. 🙂

That is a great question. The tiles I use, I would call glossy and they have worked great as long as I have my parameters set properly and my lens is clean. ;-) I will have to look for some matte finish tiles the next time I am at the store. I don't remember seeing any. I may have to go to an actual tile store! Which wouldn't be a bad thing as I would like to play around with some colored tiles.