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I've used cork roadbed for years, and have noticed that "ugly" edge. A few years ago, I started scraping down the hard edges of the roadbed with a surform tool, or just a knife blade at a 90°angle to round it down. Additionly, I paint the roadbed a color similar to the ballast, so it still looks like ballast before it's actually ballasted, or if the ballast chips off or is thin. (Or, where modules come together, but that's not applicable to Free-Mo.) I just started using some of the Woodland Scenics foam roadbed, and am looking forward to the Walthers foam roadbed. My brother is trying to talk me into using Homa-bed, but I'm having limited success with it. (Mainly acquisition!) I keep hearing rumors of cork roadbed going into short supply, so I'm looking into alternatives to my tried-and-true. Great video, enjoyed watching it!

Are you going to do a video showing how to use The Puller?

Nice video mate. I hate woodworking but you make it look so easy

Mine are inside I still have the wobble

What no box what’s up with that

We have that on our layout!

Goo luck getting those modules to your dining room.

To detail old or used brick I make a masking template out of clear plastic sheet, like they use for windows. I exacto out individual random bricks and paint them different colors, moving the template around in a random fashion. You can wipe it off between coats and flip it over for a more random effect. Also before starting my painting, I wipe white into the mortar crack between bricks with a red brick layer wiped or rolled on the surface of the brick. The stencil can be used to apply off-color red, gray, or black onto individual bricks giving you a great used brick look. BTW, a great roof painting tip is to use a toothbrush spray to add spots onto your roof (think bird poop and such). Practice with a stiff toothbrush for a good spray technique using small quantities of lighter paint like gray or off white.

You want the cracks in the boards to make the boards pop out. Use a thinner dark wash over all of the boards and wipe the darker color into the cracks. The thinner wash will smear the top layers and blend dark and light streaks giving a wood look. Alternate dry brush tones with occasional swerls for knots and texture. Be sure to not fill the darker board cracks. You can use thinner and color on a Q tip to add details or clean up the darker cracks.

Put down 2 strips of tape with the roofing strips between, then use a rubber roller to apply the glue to the roof strips. Quick, easy, and repeatable.

Those are nice looking

If it was so magnificent why is it not here. Lol kidding of course

Nice looking cars.

When I started using these, someone suggested I use forstner bits instead of the spade bits.

Where did you go to get those prices

346 but who’s counting 😂!

which geared motor are you using, thats also a future project of mine to do, I have one that I'm going to repaint. and get dcc sound into

Did you have to add a resistor for the head light?

Did you add resistors to the lights? What kind do you use? Thanks!

What is the red thing called that you used to put the locomotive on the track?

2.47 inches is the standard because an Atlas 5 inch straight is supposed to be the standard connecting track. Anybody who has put together an N-Trak layout knows how well the standard works 😸

Great update! Your benchwork/woodworking skills are incredible!

Very nice! I have the Athearn RI rotary snow plow. I got the pre-built version. I also recently acquired a new MOW Jordan Spreader (the completed one with all the moving parts, it is sweet!) Slowly building my MOW fleet. Enjoying your channel!

What kind of LEDs are you using?

nice work I am leaning more towards making speed-mo modules. They use alignment dowels 1” od tubing between modules. For legs, they use fold up legs and no levelers at all. The assembly is a torsion box and ends up weighing less. No pc board ties and filler rails as they put all rails right to the end of the module as well. They took ideas from sipping and switching of NC.

Interesting, read through the Free-mo standards; don't think that is for me but understand the need for traveling club layouts. Nice woodworking skills!

The WalthersProto SW9/1200 and WalthersMainline NW2 and SW7 share very little with the Life Like Proto2000 era SW9/1200 model. The chassis was redesigned for sound, LEDs, a DCC plug, and the standard 14:1 helical geared trucks.

You had a lot of shit in the basement

Looking forward to following the series!

This will be great to see when you complete the 3 sections

I use the roll of cork from Michael’s

You jinx yourself by saying it’s gonna go quickly. Nothing in model railroad

Had to quit watching the music was just way out too far for me I guess I'm just getting two very old

RUclips "demands" a lot of content and it can be very exhausting on creators. Especially when it is something you love that starts not to be fun. Take time to reconnect to the bits of the hobby that you enjoy, and take time to enjoy them ❤

Go vols!

This won’t be the end just time away

Middle Tennessee here. Don't give up. A lot of good modelelers here in Tennessee that will reignite your passion.

If it's any consolation, my shop is worse! Good to see you wearing the appropriate attire tho!

Doesn't sound like the end, merely a well needed strategic pause; happens to all. Take your time, rejuvenate and good luck on the house hunting! We'll be neighbors (N AL). Wishing you and yours the best.

Hope it's not completely the end my friend. Take the time you need and we'll keep an eye out for your return. Keep in touch

I’m hoping to install a Digitrax sound decoder in my Doodlebug. I’m hoping it will fit but I’m worried about everything you had to do with your Doodlebug.

Did you use screws to secure the circuit board to the top of the motor or did you just use the tape?

I’m repairing my Doodlebug and I broke a couple of wires. Any chance you can tell me where the motor wires attach to the circuit board and the gauge of the wire? Also the gauge of the wire that runs to the rear truck? Thanks!

Awesome job module looking good

Hope you baked it first

Nice update on the module and ballast looking good!

OMG, I have used this same music in my videos many times… love it. Fun watching the clean up progress. 😊

Nice update, looking forward to final episodes.

Excellent work

What size of drill bit did you use to ream out the holes? When changing couplers on my Red Caboose boxcar I broke one of the air hoses. Those little buggers are hard to reattach. You said in the previous video the name of a company that makes good air hoses. What was the company? I think I need to use more flexible ones. I use the hell out of my 2-56 drill and tap set. Not only for truck screws but for the screw that holds the draft box on with the Kadee coupler. Every modeler needs different length of 2-56 screws, 1/4", 3/8" & 5/16". Cheers from eastern TN