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5hp at the crank, 0whp lol

@@ScottiBans BOOOOOOYYYY I’ve seen them with my own eyes and lack thereof

@@yogondie on the racebred kit the holes were pre-drilled. On my custom set up I had to drill them myself. For the diffuser tunnels I can’t personally say. When my FC was running it never hit major speeds where I could notice a different. I’m sure it helps but then again I have an open air way underneath the fogs that brings in air and that air just gets stuck as it makes it way behind the wheel since I don’t have brake ducts

It could be due to the orientation of the knuckle itself in particular the section that bolts to the strut. It's been a few years but I recall taking the car to an alignment and noticing the reduction in caster. Then when I went back to get another alignment (post supernow bushings) I gained some of it back.

I do grip driving. The steering gets really fast. Ackerman gets reduced but not to zero so still good for road courses. Inputs are precise and reduce the amount you have to move the steering wheel. The supernow bushings feel real good. Great feedback at the wheel. The bushings did add some caster.

@@Gabrielized. ok cool .but are your lower ball joints extended? For more track and camber ? That will make the steering faster aswell

@@darbet83​​⁠ I have a custom set of ball joints to accommodate the additional roll center correction that is built into the PBM knuckles

@@supradoom it does take significant effort for regular street driving. On track the first few laps threw me off but I quickly got a gauge for the pressure required to brake according to the output that I wanted. Overall I really like the set up. My only complaint is a small creak somewhere in the assembly. I guess it’s from all the force being exerted to the brake pedal assembly. It’s not load but on slow breaking you can feel it just a tad. Nothing I can’t live with.

You should look at getting a brake stopper or brace to the master cylinder to stop the firewall flex

@@darbet83not a bad idea actually. I’ll have to have some designed and fabricated. Nothing too crazy. Unfortunately the stuff on the market is for the oem master cylinder and for some damn reason only for RHD cars

@@Gabrielized. that is because they are made for/by the Japanese as they love bolt on mods like that .i have a cousco one and it made the brakes feel more positive especially under harder braking . Easy enough thing to fab up

So far no issues. We are running that combo on Hoshiko (the white FC)

If you want negative camber then yes it’s much longer which allows you to tilt the subframe more. If you’re going full PBM bushing you will have to loosen the diff and subframe bolts. Then adjust the center link length followed by torquing down the diff and subframe again

@@Gabrielized. I think I'm going for more of a street car at this point. Don't need negative camber ATM.

@@supradoom then the PBM center link will be enough adjustability. The PBM small jangle links nearly zero out negative camber. I recommend the ronin links instead.

All the links are in the video description

We had bought the super now 3 way adjustable tie rod end links way before techno toy had produced their own.

Let's see - should I add a livery to this FC? 👀

@@KrazyKorean28 Yes! Lets do it

It ain't much but it's honest work

For the TechnoToyTuning parts only that were installed on the video (LCAs, Rear Camber Link, and Sway Bar End links) totaled to about $900 before shipping. For all the other parts like PBM parts, Cusco Brace, SuperNow stuff, FortuneAuto coilovers, RoninSpeedworks camber link master set, Mazda Competition bushings, and Racing Beat Sway Bars, I have another 4400 dollars invested in the suspension setup. It's a lot and not for the feint of heart financially, but it's the most complete suspension setup for aftermarket bolt ons only and it is the ultimate setup for track use.

@@KrazyKorean28 oh okay nice my suspension is mostly Mazda comp rear subframe bushings, Rb sway bars & end links, pbm camber adjuster, rear links & toe adjusters but I’m probably gonna get those technotoytuning Lca’s cuz they’re so adjustable probably get the rear camber links and sway bar links as well lol

Dedication to the game!

Sacrificing my clothes to get down and dirty with them camera angles haha

@@KrazyKorean28 you need the same overall as Gabriel

lol I was wearing one in the video - absolute lifesaver haha

😂😂😂

Still waiting on wings, beer, and Laker Game invitation

Yes I do actually. I had to loosen the strut bolts a little to remove the cap and fill the fluid. This issue will be addressed once I go with the chase bays BBE kit

Thanks

I guess you could do that too though now racebred offers a specific FC bracket so that solves that issue.

Glad I could be a bad financial influence 😂😂

Solid choice!!

They work with roll center adjusted provided by different manufacturers like Fortune Auto. Only reason I’m not using the RCA block is because the GTX control arm also provided some roll center adjustment. With the RCA block I would have too much roll center adjustment and will make contact with the wheel (I did with my previous wheels: Celica Supras)

@@Gabrielized. sent you a message on FB

@@toji004don’t have FB. Just IG

@@Gabrielized. i messaged you there

From my understanding it prevents the axle from moving excessively. It essentially keeps the axle centered under load.

Everyone checked out good. There were some chatter marks on the housings. They could have been reused but we just swapped in a fresh good set of FD housings and redid the porting

Absolutely!

It was a consistent feel on every lap. It did take me a few laps to get comfortable with the braking pressure. Overall I'm super happy with the way it feels on track.

This is royalty free music

Initial impressions. It did get easier to steer the wheel but it’s still isn’t power steering. I’m on a manual rack. I’ll know more after the next track day.

Thanks for letting me know. Do you have the quick rack by Flo's or just stock manual rack? I too am on the manual rack so I'd be interested to hear more. @@Gabrielized.

Damn that's terrible to hear! The rod is replaceable. I had my dad look at it, he has over 50 years of experience with brake boosters and master cylinders.