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I didn't realize you lived in Canada as I-78 is in the NY area in the states. That explains you using Centigrade rather than Fahrenheit as we do here in the US. It got me all confused, having used F all my life, so I had to get out the C to F converter. What kind and BTU A/C do you have? My front 14.5k btu Furrion draws about 3 times the power that my 12k btu 28.5 Seer-2 mini split does. I can only run my front A/C when the sun shines, (as I have a 4,400watt array on the roof of my MH) but I can run my mini-split 24/7 if needed in either cooling or heat mode off a 16.4 kwh, 48v 320ah battery. I run a residential fridge too. Like you, I have a separate 12v battery and solar array to keep it up with my 12v needs. Moral of the story: switching to a high efficiency mini-split heat pump will extend your run time greatly on your 11.5 kwh battery bank and may allow you save on propane by providing efficient solar powered heat too. Take care, Chip

Certifications or not; those types of comments never go away, unfortunately. 🤣 Although incredibly versed in ABYC and NEC Standards, I don't have actual certifications for either. I'm not an engineer; and in fact... I didn't do well enough in school to get accepted into engineering school (yes, I tried). Instead, I installed my first off-grid electrical system back in 2015ish, it didn't make it to RUclips. 2nd system in 2016ish, which did make it to RUclips and was 'adequate' quality; but definitely not up to my own 2024 standards; but it worked safely. During that time, I've amassed my own knowledge and experience simply by answering peoples questions. If I didn't know the answer to a question, I went and looked it up... then triple checked it against other sources... then relayed it back to the commenter. Over time, all of those questions answered turned into knowledge gained. Since then, even with no certifications, I've been contracted to teach installers on behalf of several manufacturers, have written curriculum for tech schools, and have had our videos used at the University of California in an Electrical Enginnering class. Even still... I have people telling me every day that I'm doing everything wrong. It does bother me too bad (most of the time) but I also know that I'm doing it fine and that I wouldn't be successful if I had been doing a crappy job all of this time. Those haters are, though, very discouraging; especially if you aren't supremely confident in what you're doing. For example: we have a little ranch in NW Colorado, and the main thing that stands in my way of making videos of some of our ranch projects is dealing with haters. For example, I've been running a chainsaw since before I was a teenager. I'm not an arborist, I don't wear kevlar chaps, and rarely wear a helmet, but I'm pretty proficient at it and the last thing I need is some OSHA nerd coming to my channel to tell me I'm doing it wrong. Like if the tree ends up on the ground and I didn't get hurt, I did it right. All of that to say... I get it, and I'm glad you tagged us in your video and let us be a part of your project.

if you have enough solar panels to offset the hourly discharge, you should be fine using A/C during the day. correct me if im wrong but your test seems to assume that no one is doing normal activities like watching tv or using a laptop, which all generate heat, including the presence of a person. its easy to maintain a set temperature in an insulated, closed and empty space for an extended period of time. real challenge will come when you start living in it. ive recently had to switch from eco mode on my A/C unit to an interval outlet (10 minutes on, 20 minutes off) to prevent the A/C from running continuously in 100°F weather. that adjustment allows me to generate enough charge during the day to maintain it through the night, typically dropping from about 80% to 20% state of charge overnight, considering other devices I have running. you should be able to check the trending tab on your shunt to see the state of charge results after an overnight run. my system 10kW battery bank 1.6kW solar(averaging 1kW with load)

Hello, I enjoyed watching your video, We were able to run (1) AC unit from 12:00 noon on Monday with 100% until 5 pm the next day. We traveled from Los Angeles to Sacramento California. My Victron T70 showed that I had about 11% left on the batteries. I kept the AC unit on during this time period. I have a 3 door residential refrigerator always running and we used the microwave a few times to heat up some food. We didn’t use our generator. We have a 2008 Fleetwood Expedition 38f class A motorhome This is our system: 8 12v SOK 206Ah batteries 6 SolarWorld Sunmodule SW 345 XL Mono Solar Panels 3 Victron SmartSolar MPPT 150/70-TR Solar Charge Controller 1 Victron Energy 12V 3000 MultiPlus-II 2 x 120V 1 Victron Cerbo GX MK2 with the Touch 70 I was only able to run one A/C at a time otherwise the inverter would overheat. If I had a change to do another system I would want a 48v system and 2 inverters running split-phase. I am happy with the system, however, I will be adding a second Victron Energy 12V 3000 MultiPlus-II 2 x 120V. Or buy two 24V inverters.

would have got the Aisin....whats 3k on a 90k truck, saving money is a hard sell when buying the absolute most expensive truck and trim they make...Stacy would have to live with it, lol... absolutely Beautiful truck.....I am GM guy but think Rams duallys look the best and Cummins is a workhorse!

Price?

it seems the person must have deleted the comment, as I don’t think I’ve come across that post or im blind. personally, i enjoy watching and listening to people who create these types of videos as a way to improve what i already have. i remember someone recommending an all in one inverter/charger/MPPT controller in the comments and another person preferred having the components split up, so if one fails, you only need to replace the single component rather than the entire unit. that discussion led me to split up my components as well. now i have a 24V 1000W switching power supply(wills channel idea with the milkcrate series) that I got for $100 in case I get no sunshine and need to charge up, along with a 1200W generator that sips on fuel. I got the idea for the generator from another person(i dont recall which channel) who was comparing fuel consumption on different wattage generators. 1200w - 2000w being the ideal generators to use for my use case. There is a wealth of information out there. Don’t let the minority put you down. Filter out their criticism and don’t take them too seriously.

yea, most people will know within that time frame if they are going to like the video or not based on the how the person presents themselves but not everyone is the same. Some people will like flashy edits and quick cuts to remove dead space. ive personally been putting you on 2x and just listening in the background while doing some tasks, occasionally glancing over when youre explaining stuff.

8:17 you want to use a ferrule crimp on stranded wire if youre not going to use it inplace of solid core connections. screwing down on it tends to push out the strands leaving a smaller gauge wire connection.

night mode most likley means that it will top up the batteries during the night, depending on location and your agreement with the power company some people will have offpeak hours where they charge you less per kw.

The charge voltage curve of LFP batteries is very flat, current passing through each battery would be very small when you have them in parallel. would take a very long time for the balancing process to be done passively. this is also why you cant measure their state of charge using just the voltage. as youve mentioned, each battery needs to be charged individually with a charger and companies recommend fully charging LFP batteries through the grid/generator to maintain voltage for x amount of time after current drops off before using them "offgrid". 11.5kwh total battery bank power would run those window units(~550w) with the compressor permanently on for ~20 hours i have a 10.2kwh battery bank but also have a 24/7 300w load so i can only use the eco feature that turns off the fan(~60w) shortly after the compressor to get me 2 nights(enough solar through the day to cover the load but not gain charge). i do use a seprate oscillating fan that uses less power(~25w) to keep the air ciculating.

Thanks for the shoutout! We are glad to hear you were inspired to open up your pass through to gain more storage space! Never let nay sayers discourage you from creating content! Anyone trying to discredit you or what you've filmed isn't worth giving a second thought to!

I use an mppt solar controller to do 48v to 12v. Its pretty great, it takes very little parasitic draw to keep the 12v house batteries topped off. Those step down converters are a huge parasitic drain on the 48v system, and they are built like crap. Good mppt solar controllers intelligently stop pulling juice better when the 12v gets full. I think my mppt pulls like 1 or 2 watts once the 12v bank is full. I see no reason to ever not keep those batteries charged as they are thr batteries of last resort. Im loooking at adding another 48v 100ah bringing me to 200ah batteries and 2kw solar. Currently im losing too much potential power during the day that could run the AC or whatever at night.

You've got it mostly figured out now. Note that chargers can also be isolated or non-isolated. Isolated is safer. The main safety issue has to do with negative-return paths. Since you are pushing a lot of current, you want to make sure that the returning current on the negative/ground side goes through the correct wires. In a non-isolated system it is relatively easy to mistakenly wire in additional ground paths (for example, the ground on a data cable going between two different pieces of equipment, or an accidental ground path through the vehicle frame)... such that some of the return current on your larger power cables goes through these other ground paths in addition to the cable you provided, potentially smoking smaller cables that weren't meant to carry that current. General rule of thumb.. isolated is safer in practice, but also harder to detect mistaken shorts because a single short won't flow any current. For DC wiring, particularly DIY, isolated is safer. Home wiring on the other-hand is not isolated due to the neutral-ground bond at the main breaker box, but GFCI and other similar safety devices will detect that the wrong current path is being taken due to a short and trip. -- If you use diodes in the future to prevent back-flow, note that you can put several diodes in parallel to share the current and thus reduce the per-diode heat dissipation. A diode creates a voltage drop of roughly 0.7V. A schottky diode has a voltage drop more around 0.3V and is more typically used, but has significant voltage limitations so you have to be sure to get the correct kind (typically 60V schottky diodes are sufficient for use in DC battery systems). A 20A Schottky diode can handle roughly 4A in free air without a heat sink. The power dissipation as heat through a diode is (I * Vdrop). So the (current x 0.7V) or (current x 0.3V). This is why banks of diodes are typically used for the purpose you tried to use that single diode for. You are splitting the heat dissipation across several diodes. -- In terms of electron flow, to avoid confusion always draw current direction from positive to negative, even though the actual electrons flow the other way. The convention is that positive-to-negative is the forward direction. The current going into a circuit is always the same as the current going out of a circuit. The current leaving a battery on the positive terminal is always the same as the current entering the battery on the negative terminal. Electrons are not created or destroyed by electronic circuits. So basically current is just the flow of electrons. It is literally just counting the electrons that flow through a wire. Voltage is more complex. Voltage is the measurement of the relative electric field potential between two points. Voltage is NOT the absolute electric field potential (excess or deficit of electrons relative to protons) at a single point. Voltage is always a relative measurement because that is what can cause current to flow. So even if the ground, say, has an excess of electrons, that doesn't mean it has a non-zero voltage. If your body has the same excess or deficit per unit volume that the ground has, no current flows. Absolute electric field potential can be thought of as "static electricity", but it only matters when the excess or deficit is large enough to bridge an air gap (aka spark, static shock, etc). Thousands of volts are needed for that to happen, and unless there is something replentishing the electrons or holes the current only flows for a few microseconds before the absolute electric field potentials equalize between the two points. Hence "isolated" circuits are safer. -Matt

You have to work your way up, not just a pilot hole. And use some kind of lube. Use the slow setting and let the tool do the work. Forcing it isn’t the way. That is how you break a wrist. I drill steel all the time with no problem up to 1/2 holes through around 3/4” thick. Beyond that I would recommend a hougen. 1/4 thick steel should be like butter if you are doing it right.

will you connect all the midpoints together like the victron instructions suggest ??

I drove 2020 F350 DRW 6.7 for 60k miles and was waiting for 2023 F450 Limited for 11 months. With no end in sight, I jumped the ship and purchased 2023 Ram 3500 Limited DRW HO 6.7 , Aisin Trans, 4.1 Gear with black out package. I had full body Suntek PPF and Ceramic coating plus nano ceramic tint for interior including the windshield. I am overly surprised how good is Ram 3500 Limited. It has better interior, smoother with auto leveling kit, TPMS, Apple like keypad. Gas mileage is par with F450 Limited. Around 15.5 driving empty. Tire will be cheaper on Ram 3500 than F450 Limited. It is not a fast truck, but fast enough . I can drive few hours and my back doesn't hurt and leg is not cramping up. I do not tow, but do haul some weight and this is my daily vehicle. I will take the Ram over Ford now but do miss 10 speed on gas mileage. I am 5'10" tall and it is very hard to see the front. On Ram, I usually have to wait before taking a chance on a tight spot. My truck looks almost identical to yours.

Thank you for this video. It helped my decision.

Don't be slowed by some people .keep focused on your input ..relevant and irrelevant info .as soon as you see info you don't need say fuckoff ..and don't process what has been said ..your house looks amaising and you are fearless when it comes to having a go ..10 out of 10 from me ..here's a list of things I fit out ..kitchens bathroom bedroom attics ..roofs partition block paving suspended ceilings and features fencing decking .roof construction.. Slate tiles ..facial gutters . Mechanic ..maniac and allround good man ..just like you .. keep doing pls

Beautiful car 🚗... how much is it?

Why point out a backup camera? That is required by the government for years now Nice truck though

Remove the converter, replace it with a DC-DC charger. You can't use a converter there. And you can't use a blocking diode there either way. You can't float your down-buffer 12.8V batteries with a converter that way. I gave you a detailed report of issues in the PART 6 video (didn't see the PART 7 video until now). There are a LOT of issues with the way you've set the system up. It is very unsafe. Please find and read that comment. It is quite long and involved. I will add a little here to that other (very lengthy post) I made in PART 6. Fusing is incredibly important and part of the problem here is that your fusing setup is seriously ad-hoc. #1 If you want to buy stuff of of Amazon, then a good investment is to purchase a couple of fused bus bars. Search for "6-way Mega Fuse Holder Busbar 500A". Something like that. Victron sells one that is pretty good. However many you need, one or more for the 24V bus, and one or more for your 12V bus. Buy Victron or BlueSea branded mega-fuses #2 Fusing in general. All positive cables and wires must be fused, period. The busbar fuse holders will take care of most of the requirements. Do not omit seemingly small cables like the battery balancing cables (all battery balancing cables must be fused... you can use inline glass fuses for those, but if you are uncomfortable with that then use solar ceramic 10x38mm fuses and fuse holders for otherwise unfused thin wires). The solar charge controller BAT+, the inverter positive, the main battery positive (usually independent of the bus bar, as close to the main battery as possible), any voltage monitoring wiring. Other equipment... charging sources for example. Everything. For a 24V system, mega-fuses work quite well (48V systems require more care). However, mega fuses only have medium interrupt ratings and with four batteries in parallel you really need a T-Class fuse for your main battery fuse. Or, alternatively, wire each series pair of batteries into its own fuse on the mega-fuse bus bar, independently. #3 For disconnects use 2-pole DC breakers. Do not use those slider breakers or low-end marine disconnects (I talk about this in my PART 6 comment). #4 Don't be afraid to buy more cabling as-needed. It is a necessary cost. -Matt

Well, a variety of tools is always needed, but in your case the problem is also because you are buying random stuff off of Amazon to build the system. That's quite a mess. I'm not really sure where to start. If you don't mind a considerable number of bullet-points, I'll just start writing stuff down. The Victron gear is good, everything else is junk. The batteries... well, I'm not sure what chemistry you are using for the main bank (LiFePO4? AGM?) but generally speaking even junky LiFePO4 batteries work fairly well. However, the topology kinda sucks. -- * You are using a 24-to-12 DC-DC converter which I guess you are using to down-buffer from the 24V system to your 12V system. That should be a 24/12 DC-DC charger, not a converter. Because you have 12.8V LiFePO4 batteries on the other side, they need a proper charging profile... you can't just float them with a DC-DC converter. * Those 3 x 30Ah 12V batteries on the right and the associated cabling. Small batteries like that are not designed for the type of surge loads you are going to be putting them under and the cabling looks too small as well (large voltage drop on surges / motor-startups / etc). Having some redundancy by paralleling is great, but not built out of such low-rated batteries. I strongly recommend using one or two 12.8V 100Ah LiFePO4 batteries instead, with 2 AWG cabling. Get the ones designed for trolling motors that have 2x current burst capabilities (they have thicker internal wiring and beefier BMSs inside). * Those slider-style DC breakers are virtually certain to be polarized, and they are also not short-circuit-protected if I recall... they only have a thermal trip inside. And they are single-pole, and their I.R. (interrupt rating) is terrible. Those things are a SEVERE fire hazard. Breakers in solar / power systems like this should always be unpolarized 2-pole breakers on the DC side. SIgh. Lets see... well, relatively cheap Amazon-bought breakers that would work here would be the 2-pole Chtaixi DC breakers (DIN rail mounted, MCBs). The 2-pole version is unpolarized (the single-pole version is not), but they are MCBs so the amperage ratings top-out at around 125A. Just as an example. * Those DC disconnect switches are a severe fire hazard. Either use more unpolarized 2-pole DC breakers there, or get a proper DC disconnect (spring loaded, environmentally sealed, and able to disconnect under load). Those aren't. I don't have any recommendations for Amazon-bought DC disconnects. They all suck, even the BlueSea ones. * No protective covers over the fuse blocks and terminal blocks? I know those bus bars on the lower left come with covers, I have some myself. * Be sure to use a washer + lock washer for all of those M8 bolts, everywhere. Do not omit the lock washer (just in case you have, I couldn't tell from the video). BAT terminal, ring / lug against BAT terminal, then washer, then lock washer, than bolt. You can't just depend on torque in a high-vibration environment like this, they'll break loose very quickly. I'd even consider a bit of silicon to lock everything in place after finalizing, and/or a thin line of paint so you can visually determine if any bolts have come loose. * Make sure that huge wonking inverter is not exhausting air into the other equipment when its fans are on. Those things can get hot. The idle power consumption is also fairly bad with those, usually well over 40W, sometimes over 100W. (In terms of replacing, if you ever decide to, I do like Victron's line of inverters, from small to large. They are all very good and have very low idle consumption). -- 24V BATTERY SYSTEM: You've saddled yourself with a number of problems by using 12V batteries in a 2s configuration and then it looks like you paralleled them. I couldn't tell if those were LiFePO4's or lead-acid AGMs. Normally one would put in native 25.6V LiFePO4 batteries. But you work with what ya got, so... * You need a T-Class main battery fuse with that many batteries in parallel because the individual 2s groups aren't individually fused. * You need to protect the terminals with terminal covers. * Be sure to individually fuse the balance cables coming from that 12V x N battery balancer. Don't wrap the balance wiring around other cables. in-line glass fuses work for the balance cables. Remember that a short through a thin balance cable == fire. * The cabling is not ideal, but my assumption is you don't want to re-cable things so... ya work with what you got. The main problem is that your options are limited when you have one battery balancer for the entire bank. SOLAR CHARGE CONTROLLER: * Presumably 50A @ 24V, roughly = 1000W of solar. Consider breaking that into two smaller charge controllers. * Make sure the worst-case open-circuit voltage on the SOLAR input does not exceed 100V. * If you are paralleling strings, I recommend not doing so without running the strings through a proper solar combiner box. * If using paralleling MC4 adapters up on the roof... don't. Those are a major fire hazard. An even better way to do it is to run any strings into their own charge controllers. e.g. two smaller charge controllers instead of one big charge controller. -- In anycase, that's all I could see from watching the video. You didn't really say much about the topologies, chemistries, and other technical details. -Matt

I love seeing people overcoming difficult obstacles. You gained a new follower here. Im actually an above the knee amputee in the process of building my own van out right now. Since im a disabled veteran. It gives me the financial freedom to do the van life experience. Follow my journey if you want. Its gonna be fun

Really nice set up. I followed your entire series. Sorry you had a meltdown at the beginning. If you ever find your inverter turning itself off while under a heavy load, be sure to check the circuit breakers. I’m not sure about the barrel type that you recently got but the square type breaker was not allowing enough current to flow through when I was running my air conditioner, and it kept turning off my inverter. I replaced it with a 250 amp fuse and problem solved. Looking forward to more content!

I just bought the same truck 3weeks ago only difference is I got a mega cab. Same colour white night edition limited. Very happy with it runs great.

Yer all hooked up! Awesome!

They make two different versions of that charger as far as I could tell the only difference was the terminal ends... and maybe the version you got has gauges showing charge current and soc? I almost got the one you did before I noticed. I got the 40 amp one and it only has lights that turn from red (charging) to green (full charge). The ends have one of those connectors like a forklift battery uses, I can't remember what they are called with rings at the end. I hard-wired those into my bus bars.

Man, I wish you would have called someone like my company before you purchased. Never build a 12V system if you are going to run AC/heat from the system. Unless it is 500W or less. Also, if you are running AC use a Victron inverter, aims or magnum (there could be a few others). I have run the budget ones in dozens of builds. 50% of budget inverters fail in 3 years or less. 100% of victrons (inverters)have never failed. I have had cerbo GX’s fail before the hot-fix last year and the manufacturers fix (now they are all good).

Those fuses you are using are terrible. You will have to replace them.

I hope you get it all figured out and safe so no worries!

GR8 VIDEO KEEP THEM COMING!!! THANKZZ FOR SHARING!!!

Great work, one thing you should purchase that used a lot when installing/testing my house 48vdc system is a Flir TG165 thermal image camera, I found it on FB marketplace used for a couple hundred, well worth it, that way you can see if anything is heating up, fuses/breakers/wires/connectors great tool. Looking forward to your next video.

Well said, yes hard way to learn, always scared of this happening, your awesome for owning your mistakes and sharing for others to see as I always think of this happening, lucky it burnt off the cable and burn out instead of burning you very nice trailer to the ground or any other exposures, I just recently put a similar system in my RV, however I am running 12vdc. I run my house on a 48vdc system for a few years now. Again thank you for sharing, going to watch 5 now.

Nice work, just going to check out 4-5, last pics look scary, interest in what caused the fire, guessing the 24-12 shorted ??

Good job repairing the damage. I would have put some kind of fireproof backing board, like Hardie Backer or Durock up and attached my various components to it. You might also consider getting a couple Fireball self-activating fire extinguishers for this area for inexpensive fire protection and peace of mind. Victron definitely makes very good stuff, but it's not the only manufacturer of quality solar equipment, as you well know. I think the strongest reason to go with Victron is that all their components integrate perfectly with each other, and why wouldn't they? But there are components by other manufacturers that can integrate with Victron too. It's smart that you decided to go with a Sungold Power inverter/charger. And hey, it's still blue like Victron. 😉 It's like saying that Mercedes makes high quality cars. However, there are other car manufacturers who also make quality cars that cost less, with different features and styling some might find more appealing. Some have features that Mercedes doesn't have, while Mercedes has features that others don't, though at a premium price. I don't drive a Mercedes. I drive a Chevy, not because of quality, but because it's price and features better fit my needs. It's the same with my solar system. I use a Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger, saving us complexity and space as well as money compared to a system built with individual components. The disadvantage is that if one component breaks after their warranty has expired you must either have it repaired or replace the entire unit, not just one component. This all-in-one unit has the same 99% charging and 95% inverter efficiency as the Victron unit does, minus a few features that Victron has. The biggest advantage is price, as it only cost $764 and integrates everything very well. We chose this particular unit because it supports up to 500 volts of solar power which was needed to support our 400voc solar array. Victron doesn't have anything that will support a 48v DC battery and 500volts DC of solar, which threw them out of the running. Though to be fair, they do have a 450v/48v output charge controller only, but it's $1,100! Other manufacturers do have these capabilities in an all-in-one system, and though some are cheaper, quality, customer support and warranty were a big consideration too.

Use a victron dc to dc converter with fuses

Fuses, fuses, fuses…. Every single positive wire to every device should be fused. All the wires to the bus bar should have fuses.

no sound dude?

Yes, you only want your converter on when plugged into a power pedestal and your inverter is off. If not, you'll be in a loop with power coming from your battery to power your inverter which is powering your converter to charge your 12v battery (assuming you retained it as a buffer for high amperage draws, such as slide motors and leveling jacks and for redundancy like I did). If your converter has a dedicated circuit, you could just flip the breaker. We just keep ours unplugged, as that circuit has a couple outlets for other things, and we hardly ever plug into shore power anymore. In fact, it's been 6 months of FT living since we did. I highly recommend getting a soft starter for your A/C, like the Micro Aire unit we use. Our EG-4 28.5 Seer-2 mini-split for the bedroom only uses about 1/3 the power our 14.5k btu front rooftop A/C does and produces efficient heat too.

It's good you sealed those holes up in the battery compartment because they would be the perfect place for rodents to enter and chew up your wiring, possibly even causing a fire. As FTers who boondock most of the time we can tell you that battling rodents, from cute little chip monks and squirrels to bigger vermin is a persistent problem in the boonies. We're retired FTers who discovered we love boondocking, so designed and built our off-grid electrical system ourselves, on a limited budget. It took us 5 years to gather the resources to finally complete the project. We're living this lifestyle off of a limited retirement income so had to take the low budget route, foregoing name brand components like Victron and Battleborn for more affordable options. We started by building a 620-watt liftable solar array on the side of our 1999 National Tropical MH. Our side array makes a nice bedroom window awning too, practically lifting itself with a couple gas struts, and it's easy to clean, standing safely on the ground. Next, we built a 12v, 560ah LiFePo-4 battery using 8, 280ah prismatic cells and a Heltec 330amp (1,200a surge) BMS with a 5a active balancer. These cells fit perfectly under the steps of our MH where our old pair of golf cart batteries used to reside. We insulated the battery compartment, cut a small hole in our step risers and installed a tiny computer CPU fan to keep this space at close to room temperature, so we don't have to worry about the BMS shutting down charging due to low temperature - or their life reduced from getting too hot. Our 12v system uses an 80A LFP converter/charger, a 1,000w Renogy inverter, a 50a Epever MPPT charge controller and a Lnex battery monitor. All this cost us under $3,500 and meets all our off-grid electrical needs except for our air conditioning, heat and microwave. By mounting the solar array on the side of our coach, we left the roof free to rack 8, 550w Sungold Power solar panels down the length of our 35ft Class A, 15" off the roof, above our AC, vents, etc. It shades our entire roof, allowing plenty of cooling air underneath, increasing solar output and reducing the heat load on the air conditioners. Our 4,400w array can run both our A/Cs, our household appliances and charge our batteries from solar at the same time, even in winter. We mounted a Sungold Power all-in-one 48V, 5,000W Inverter/100A charge controller/battery charger, breakers and another Lnex battery monitor on the wall in our bedroom, saving us space as well as money compared to a system built with individual components. This all-in-one unit has the same 99% charging and 95% inverter efficiency as the Victron unit, though it lacks some unnecessary bells and whistles, saving us some serious money at only $764 for a full 5,000 watts of PSW inverter power (10,000va surge) and 100 amps of 48v charging. We chose this particular unit because it supports up to 500 volts of solar power which was needed to accommodate our 400voc solar array. This high voltage system performs very well in low light conditions. A few days ago, it rained all day, but our high voltage array was still producing over 1,500 watts or around 35% of its rated capacity even in the rain to keep our battery topped up. Our 48v battery uses 16, 320ah prismatic cells and a 200amp Heltec BMS to keep it safe. Together with our 560ah 12v bank, we have a total of 23.5 kwh of batteries onboard - kept charged by 5,020 watts of solar. We removed our old rooftop bedroom A/C and replaced it with an EG4 28.5 seer-2, 12k btu mini-split heat pump on the upper rear of our motorhome. It's super quiet and cools as well as our 14.5k btu soft start equipped Furrion we have up front, but only draws about 1/3rd the power. This second phase provides 24/7 off-grid air conditioning and heat from the heat pump. Our total budget for both 12v and 48v systems was around $11,500, including the $1,500 high-efficiency heat pump. We have no need to hook-up to power pedestals anymore, as we run everything in our MH without it. We travel around the country a lot, visiting National Parks, and doing the tourist thing, mostly boondock out west. We spent last winter boondocking in Yuma, AZ, but we're visiting our son in NC now where boondocking places are pretty rare. We found an RV park that is letting us camp in a spacious site without hook-ups for only $100/mo., saving us $500/mo. off their FHU rates. Take care. We hope to see you down the road one day.

Be careful there bud....following..

I have this in my cart..but 12v model....working on a build this fall...

Nice setup. Greetings from Jamaica.