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Good point, haha :D

Hi there! I would assume, most of the settings can be applied to GoPro11 - these cameras have always been similar in terms how they can be set up. However, rally is a different story. I would never lock the exposure, just set the EV Comp to -1.0, so the view out is OK (not over-exposed). Locking exposure could mean that if you go through a dark forest, it could be tricky to see, and you will need to set it up every time before the stage. Where with EV Comp (exposure compensation), you just hit the "record" and that's it. Another question is Image Stabilizer. If the car is had very solid engine/gearbox mounts and vibrates like hell - it could be good idea to turn it on. However, then you will have the view panning to left or right, as the camera will try to stabilize your image. My honest recommendation is not to be afraid to test different settings and apply these that work the best.

Greitesni buvo ne Yariai. Greitesnės buvo Audės, Golfai ir Cupros. Po 10s ant šlapio man įvežė Kazbaras su A3 :) Ant sauso gal po 5s.

@@motoringmatthmm, kažkaip tokiam slalume maniau awd yra minusas, ypač ant sauso. 🤔 Gaunasi atvirksčiai. 🫣

@@Matrix_Spirit Čia nėra slalomas - čia pakankamai daug tiesiųjų, kur didelė galia ir torkas padeda. Taip pat, čia daug vidutinio greičio posūkių. Tokios lengvos, kaip mano, mašinos pranašumas yra lėtose sekcijose, kada yra staigesni apsisukimai ir pan. Tik ją išnaudoti galėčiau geriau su semi slickais - bet jau kitais metais. Gal rugpjūčio gale lėksiu į slalomą (tą tradicinį), tai pasistengsiu pafilmuoti iš ten :) Šitose varžybose matosi, kad aš nesistengiu su gazu labai, nes nėra prasmės - mašina iškart slysta. Su AWD gali iš posūkio išeiti su daug didesne galia. Tai toks tas skirtumas.

Negalima, tik stock

Negalima. Dėl to BMW labai dominuoja savo klasėse - jų stockiniai kompai programuojasi, o va programuojamas aftermarketas - jau nelegalu. Išmetimo kolektoriai irgi nepageidaujamas modas, nebent OEM. Dėl to SGC1 klasėje Hondos labai klesti - ten galima susirasti retų OEM žaislų, kaip B16B periferija... Aišku, pas mane viskas custom ir net variklis ne Toyotinis :D Tai man LAABAI toli iki SGC klasės. Bet svarbiausia - malonumas :)

Just came back and revealed the footage…Forgot to turn Stabilisation off…. Video goes left right left right, like you said 🥳

Ah, life's just a little too busy and it's a lot too cold outside to work on the car. Got the drive-by-wire throttle and pedal purchased, got the ECU I want to setup, but it's too cold to work on it. Let's wait for spring :)

Bus ką veikti viską pasidaryti ir priprasti taip, kaip buvo anksčiau :D Bet nesakau, kad neįdomus procesas :D

Yeah, but in the end of the day it is sooo much more expensive.

Yes, absolutely forgot to mention that! The guys bashed 2 spots of the firewall. One for the intake manifold - the more aggressive manifold you run, the more to bash. I run Skunk2 Ultra, so there was a lot of bashing! And also for the alternator a little. I would consider cutting the firewall and making a door as an access to the intake side. We had to change a knock sensor and it was... a little pain in the ass 😄

@@motoringmatt Thank you for quick answear. I'm sorta Your neighbour, I'm from Poland. And I plan to put K series to my MR2 :) So every information is valuable :D

@@lovwelas haha, you have a lot of K-swapped zzw30s. Here this is the first in the country 😄 look for tc_racegarage in instagram - a guy from PL with epic build.

@@motoringmatt I know that car. it is currently on sale BTW :)

Neradome būdo monetizuoti, o kepti video tik iš idėjos - brangu ir reikalauja energijos 🤷🏻‍♂️

Thanks man! Appreciate your thoughts!!!

@@motoringmatt by the way, how light is your flywheel? If you have a superlight flywheel than you will feel a lot more of the engine fibration because the engine is theoratically a bitt more unbalanced.

@@boerdeboer3974 I run Fidanza flywheel that's only 3.63 kg. But flywheel accounts for less vibrations than engine mounts. I've seen videos with solid mounts where even onboard camera struggles to capture a decent view. It vibrates so hard, the whole view is blurry :) I will find a solution though.

Sunku tiksliai pasakyti, labai detaliai nesekiau visko ir labai priklauso nuo pačio swapo kainos :) Šitą nupirkau visai gera kaina, bet dar daug darbo reikia įdėti, kad veiktų taip sklandžiai, kaip veikė 2ZZ. Turbūt eitų kalba apie kokiu 8k so far, neskaitant darbo.

@@motoringmatt tai su darbu gali drasiai iki 15k viskas isaugti. UK sako kad 2gr swapas gaunasi apie 20k. Aisku cia jau gaunasi skirtingo pobucio masina tuomet.

@@povilaslondon2GR labai rimtas reikalas, bet pernelyg custom viskas. Aš norėjau kuo įmanoma mažiau custom sprendimų :) ir norėjau BENT 8000rpm 😄

@@motoringmatt 2GR irgi galima iki 9k uzsukti :D

@@povilaslondon taip, tik brangoka turbut :))

Su 2ZZ būčiau įvežęs geresnį laiką vien todėl, kad buvau labai gerai išmokęs tą setupą. Šitą dar reikia perprasti, bet potencialo labai daug. Į sėdynę lipina normaliai, vis tiek nėra tokio jausmo, kokį suteikia motorai su turbo :) Bet responsas ir sūkiai duoda gerą vaibą. Sėdynės tvirtinimus perdarinėsiu ir keisiu kartu su pačiomis sėdynėmis - man irgi nelabai patinka, kaip jos supasi :))

Su vieninteliu BMW, kurį turėjau (e36 316ti), tai lyginti nenorėčiau :D Bet, tarkime, su mano 200SX palyginus, tai labai stipriai skiriasi. Low speed understeer vis dar yra ir MR2 niekada nesuks taip, kaip automobiliai su sunkesniu priekiu :) Stebuklų nebūna. Labai punchy dabar MR'as, labai lengva vairuoti su gazu, atsirado daugiau būdų kontroliuoti trajektoriją, etc. Vien dėl svorio - daug aštresnis automobilis ir dabar yra lengviau nei bet kada anksčiau važiuoti tiksliai. Praktikos dar reikia, bet viskas juda teisinga kryptimi. Trūksta caster'io ir jis nėra lengvai padaromas. Bus apie ką pagalvoti žiemą :D

@@motoringmatt Stock e36 Ti yra tragedija :D Tačiau tinkamai paruošus jie gali dominuot slalomus. Bėda, kad kw darosi jiems žymiai brangiau nei hondos ir prie 4cil verta pasilikti tik jei važiuoji slalomus dėl motoro prieš stakanus ir to pasekoje geresnio balanso mažu greičiu. Pas mus dar nebuvo bepročio, kuris susitvertų tinkamą 160kw+ 4cil ir dar baronką sukiotų gerai, DE yra pavyzdžių 1t/250ag 4cil 1,8-2,1l Ti , kur tik lotusai/caterhamai ir pan pasikandžiot prieš juos gali

Yes, exactly! So much easier to steer it with the throttle.

Labai noreciau RTS. Raudonu. Bet jos, kiek suprantu, nemazam zmogui. As per smulkus (negalvojau, kad taip kada nors pasakysiu 🤣). Rollbara dazyt kazkada link ziemos

Ziedas pernelyg kontaktinis. Sprintas, street race ar tiesiog trackday butu awesome!

@@motoringmatt - time attack laukia tavęs, gana po tuos slalomukus

Plastikas aplink spidometrą bus :) 3D printeriai dirba savo darbą. O variklio skyriuje tai taip - trūksta šio bei to. Bet čia žiemą susitvarkysiu. Sprendimai greiti. Arba kaimietiški.

Thanks! Too bad the camera doesn't record it properly. Someday I will connect external mic to capture the sound properly.

I had an idea to go for jdm K20A, but this particular setup just landed to my surprise. It was too good to skip it. I thought this was a frank because of its power figures, but as soon as I realized its A3 head with aftermarket cams fitted, it made perfect sense :)

Yeah, I will sort this out someday in the winter :) perhaps a catch can will work best.

Thanks for your feedback. I don't have enough experience with GoPros and external audio. But that should be a fun thing to investigate. Maybe I will give it a try and make a video about that in future :)

@@motoringmatt I do have an old Corolla AE92 with 4AGE engine, the sound is great when rpm goes up. Right now my car is going under restauration or I might sell it ruclips.net/video/ebYRY8NqmB4/видео.html However I wanted to make some videos with sound like mountain road. Car video and audio is totally new topic for me, the video capture tricks seems clear from your guidance but I was wondering of the audio when camera inside.

@@tantratron Haha, I completely get you! I had an AE86 as it was my very first personally-owned car. Absolutely loved the sound it made and you are totally on point here :) Cheers!

Hey. Thanks for your comment. Look for 'gopro suction cup mount' on ebay, amazon or anywhere literally :) I'm sure you'll find it.

The gearbox is original Civic Type-R gearbox with torsen LSD, but I also fitted a longest OEM 6th speed for cruising to events. After everything is done I will make a detailed video about the car. Maybe even in English :)

@@motoringmatt oh my god!! such a cool setup, i have K24 + K20A2 gearbox too. Beautiful combo mate! Can i ask what rapidshifter version is that? Website only shows the MR2 MK2 shifter and to be honest i would prefer this shifter over the hybrid racing 100 times. It seems to work pretty good!

@@DiegoRodriguezAW11 The shifter from Rapidshifters is really beautiful. I thought it will be a plug and play solution, but actually the bracket that bolts to the gearbox required a lot of messing, cutting and welding. Cables are super heavy duty, so any sharper bends makes the cables move not as smooth as I probably expected. I'd love to try OEM cables with Rapidshifters shifter mechanism. The communications with Rapidshifters was also difficult. They took very long to manufacture it and replied very seldom. But at least they were really honest, always answered the phone and even refunded me for the bracket part (as the guys that modified it did tremendous job to make it work). Would I recommend the whole shifter? I should say that as soon as I have my car done. So far sitting in the cabin and moving the shifter feels really lovely. I just asked them to manufacture a shifter with cables and bracket for K24 MR2 MK3 with EP3 gearbox. Ideally I would have brought my car to them and then the result was flawless. But I will definitely showcase their stuff on video in the near future. Please stay tuned :) A month or so and the car will be finally done.

@@motoringmatt Thank you! Good point on the cables being heavy duty compared to the OEM ones. I have heard Hybrid Racing cables are nice but also stiffer compared to the OEM ones, which should bend the easiest of all. However, OEM ones are not adjustable in the ends as yours, do you think that could be an issue? Absolutely i will stay tuned, love your content and project man!👏👏

@@DiegoRodriguezAW11 I actually purchased an adapter that does allow to adjust the OEM cables. I bought it in case we won't make this solution work, but the guys fixed all that :D So now I have this spare Innovative shift cable adapter. If I find the current solution too tricky, I may still use that spare part with standard cables. Although that would also need a lot of modifications to mate with this custom shifter. Ah, project cars, they always leave some difficulties. But the reward is huge in the end of the day :)

Hey there. I am running 205/40 R17 in front and 215/45 R17 in the back. The wheels are 17x7.5 ET35. No rubbing, although I had to remove front liners. There is a lot of remaining space in the rear, I assume 245s would fit there. I would like to get 225 in the front and 245 in the back for the next season. If needed, I will roll the fenders a little :)

@@motoringmatt thanks you very much ! , my problem I think its the front liniers, now with stock rims with 20mm spacers rub on one of the mountings of the front linier

@@tramorevirado Yeah, I had similar issues. I tried trimming and modifying the liners, but eventually decided to throw them away :D

Here, I have this rubbed i.imgur.com/g69boPg.jpg

@@tramorevirado Looks very familiar. It really is a struggle to get the sort the wheel and tyre sizes in the front, while it is so much more flexible in the back.