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Hi there I just wanted to get in touch I have found out that the isue with my b&o mx 7000 is the flyback transformer. I have sent to to a locat tv repair place however they are saying they are strugling to finde the flyback transformer by any chance do you know the part no or a shop online west I could order the part. From do I can give it the the tv repair person. Or is it posble at all if I could get my tv back from them and arrange to send you my b&o mx7000 after watching your video and seeing how thoroug you are with everything. Makes me feel that you would be able to do a fantastic job as the people who have my tv do not comincstion very well and they have had it over over a month woukd i be able to arrange my tv to be servises and have the capasters s as nd parts replaced I would like to give it a second chance on life this tv is my only tv I have and I would like for it to last a long time if not woukd you please be able to help me finde the right replacement part the model no of my tv is Mx7000 16145127 I apreshste you are a busy person thank you gir taking the time to read this best wishes and thank you for the video

Beoparts-shop has moved to Danish Sound Parts (dksoundparts). It would be helpful, if you could update the links in the description.

Hi what sort of plating is required for the crt cage?

Thank you very much for this video. It must have been a big big work to do.

Excellent detailed video, top marks! I have a couple of questions: I've moved a pair of Penta Mk 2s from USA (120V) to NZ (240V). I have the service manual showing how to restrap the transformers for 240V, and it mentions the change in glass fuse ratings; are you aware of any other 'gotchas!' when changing supply voltage to Penta amps? One of my pair is, annoyingly, missing the plastic cover from the digital display; are you aware of any source for a replacement? Beoparts have nothing :-(

Hi there my mx7000 I was using it last night with my nes and all of a sudden ther was a static sound and then a crackle s as nd pop by any chance do you know if it’s fixable I live in the Uk

Hi mate, are you still repairing B&O's? I'm up in Cheltenham and searching for someone who's able to repair a couple of old MXs!

@The Retro Bristolian Did the recap do anything for the barrell geometry issue?

Hi. I bought an MX7000 yesterday. I really like him! I've set up everything I need, but the image is clearly more blurry than on my mx 4000. Is there any way I can adjust the focus of the picture? Are there any handles inside for this, like other CRT monitors?

Fantastic Video Mate! Ive managed to score a MX5500 and a MX7000 recently. will certainly be using this guide as reference when thinking about cap replacement and maintenance. Thanks so much! looking forward to pt2 of this video!

Hello! I moved to another place with the TV on truck, When I start the TV for the first time after the move. The LED in the upper right was getting less and less power now the TV doesnt start anymore. Could that be capacitor problem? The Led was blinking but I dont remmeber if it was red or green.

Hi, Thanks for this vidéo. I follow you from France. Are you agree to help me to repair nanao ms9-29a. I can’t set the image correctly. I make a vidéo to share the problem.

This video has been a great help repairing a pair of mk1 6603. Though I ran into a problem if you had any input. I replaced all capacitors and got the amp to turn on and green light. Though trying to set my trimpots I have tried two different multimeters and can't get any reading from 1R103 and 1R104 pin. Also when clamped onto end of loudspeaker output is only reading in the 30s and isn't affected when I turn the screw. The light is green on the amp to.

I've the Mk2 model, but from one of them not heard nothing audio, but the Red light of amplificator is on. What is the problem? Should be one of 2 internal fuse burn? Who help me?

Many thanks for this valuable instruction! It was a very usable guide for me to disassemble my Penta 6631 and service it.

Hi great video, my MX4000 fizzled out last month and whilst there is some useful info out there online it's all old forum posts with very few pictures of the picture links are broken and yes i totally agree about the service manuals! Thank you so much for this video just gives me a bit more confidence to dig in and replace the caps. I know it will come back to life if I do change the caps out. This video will help a lot. Cheers!

Great Video! Thanks. Try scanning the Nanao Ms9 schematics in grayscale i sometime find it better scanning manuals in that format than black and white mode Cheers 🤗

THANK YOU FOR THIS AMAZING VIDEO! Please make a video showing how to refurbish the crossovers next :)

My bang & Olufsen receiver to my Penta 2 speakers. I now have to use the speaker cable because the data cable does not seem to want to work it. Whether it be 4 pins to 1 speaker or 8 pins from speaker to speaker. But instead I have to use the speaker line input from the receiver. Before it went completely out I used to be able to get sound out of one of the speakers and the other one worked but I used to have to turn it way up till it came on turn it down and then sometimes it up and down a few times. Does this sound like a common occurrence and if so what's a quick or some what do I do to remedy that. The speaker sounded so much better through the 4 and 8 pin cables. I don't know if it's using the on speaker amplifier or the speaker amplifier from this receiver itself at this point. And I noticed that the green light at the bottom is on all the time.

very informative! my Dad recently got some refurbished beolab penta mk3 and unfortunately has developed a fault where the right speaker entirely cuts out while the left carries on as normal. they are daisy chained with powerlink cables with the right speaker (faulty one) is the beginning speaker. after a bit of troubleshooting we have found it to "come back to life" when the power cord near the base is given a litttle wiggle....looks like a loose connection from the power cord but neither me or my dad have the technical ability to remove things or considder soldering anything!? apart from sending it to B&O specialists, what would you recommend for someone living in the west UK? sounds like it could be an easy fix but my dad daren't open them up

That noise is normal. It's a wiper running over coils of wire. It's called a Rheostat.

also I cannot find specs does it do VGA? 31khz

hello!! do you need an Isolation Transformer for 120v?

Is it possible to disable the ambient light sensor in the top right corner so you can have full brightness all of the time? If you use a flashlight there the screen will get brighter. I think it’s too dim by default.

hi , only you can help me because you know the mk3s like the back of your hand, basically I sent the midrange panels to a specialized center to renew the suspensions, unfortunately when I removed them I didn't catalog the wires with the various colors, I was wondering if you could give me a hand. Greetings from Italy

I just came across your video. I notice it was from a year ago but no updates since then. What happened with the restoration? Please try to jump pins 2 and 3 on the com port and type on the keyboard and see if any characters are displayed. Look to see if there are brightness or sub brightness adjustments on the video board and try to adjust thrm

Used an ADM terminal in college to write 6800 assembly code and it eventually went to a teletype that could also produce punched tape. Then after college was able to use a TRS-80 Model-1 computer.

Gosh that set still looks stunning to this day

I’m searching for one of these monitors for my collection

The mechanical design of that amplifier is gorgeous!! Looks great, a bit of a pain to work on 😂

Great video. Do you have an email address i can contact you on? I can't see it in any of your links. Wonder if you could service an mx8000. Thanks

That probe is really not gonna discharge the crt if it had voltage. The probe really is just a voltage divider of REALLY high resistance

i cant work with gloves on my hands in electronics repair

When you get around to it, the small board between the neck of the CRT connecting the horizontal and vertical deflection coils, very likely to have a burned / cracked joint on one or more of the terminals on the PCB.

The "mystery" caps are "Samwha" brand. Also, the BIPOLAR caps are the best sounding type (of electrolytic cap) to use in the signal path. This is the kind of thing that takes quite a long time to learn on your own.

I've repaired and restored countless B&O products from the 1970's onward... and a couple tips for you. The orange caps are "LN" (low noise usually) and are a higher quality, used for signal path or power applications. They very rarely fail in my experience. And one more thing.... ALWAYS always always replace any surface mounted caps!

Hi mate, i suspect caps out of value or resistor causing a ready state... i dont know... yoke look familar, one of the tubes here has that style. Planning on picking up another flat screen based tube tomorrow from the same place... also... we running SWAG this weekend at Chipping Sodbury, drop in for ten minutes as a guest, let me know if you do by messenger.

This is really interesting! I have the same problem with my camper, same print plate and panel! Thanks for this 😀

Hi, great video, i have this crt monitor in my naomi arcade, i habe a problem, sometimes turn on and work perfectly, but another times sound turn on, but the monitor don't show picture, do you know if the problem is easy to repair?

Is it possible to provide information for the mesh towels you are using please. I am doing a similar process and this method looks great. Thanks.

ah good stuff, was thinking that the wider distorsion might be a cap issue, not electrolytic.. I know Mike 'the amateur' has done a video somewhere for this on another chassis as I pretty much watched all his videos.... i think i recognise u now from ur reflections, think we spoke about Vampire Nights with Luke on top of Matts PL warehouse

Hello, I have a problem with one of my beolab penta mk. 3 6631, I hope you can help me. One of them is having a humming noise from the amplifier, not from the speakers, only the amplifier. Is is like a small electric humming, not a deep sound. It doesn’t amplify when the volume increases. And usually it starts after I have used it for a little while. Newer when I turn it on when it’s “cold”. They are both speakers running at 56 degrees Celsius. When I have been pushing them at high volume. They overall sound great. I bought them, and tried them shortly to see if they worked, then I refurbished the 4 midranges in both speakers. So after that, I noticed the fault. Are they doomed? Did I mess up the wirering? I really need some expertise. Thanks for some great videos. Best regards Ben

A great video and guide... keep up the good work!

Great video.. think this is in one of my cabinet so will have to use this to help restore/repair!

I just bought one of these and am waiting for it to arrive. My first thought would be remove the CRT and CRT power board from the equation. Can you pull a composite video signal from the logic board and send it to a known-good external video display? You might feel better spending time trying to fix an old analog CRT if you could see that the underlying brain of the terminal was already working, or if you should focus on that instead.

Hehe capacitor 😊

The keyboard looks crunchy. What switches does it use?

How do you know what model number CRTs it works on? My CRT 25VGDP22 CRT tube model number

Have you made any progress on the terminal. I have one of these still in use on radio automation equipment. Make sure the contrast and brightness pots are ok and turned up. The solder connections on the pots can get lose. Also jump pins 2&3 on the serial connector this allows you to type and locally display. This will verify that the cursor is not hidden off the screen. As the pots were cleaned it’s possible the data is there just off screen due to size and position adjustments on monitor board. The high pitch whine noise is a good indicator that it’s possible out of adjustment with sizes causing yoke to deflect beam off screen. Some high pitch sounds are normal from those CRT’s. Mine has given issues with the bright and contrast pot on main board from getting dirty over years and causes blank screen issue. Try simple things first. Sounds as if the terminal is working. If you have a serial cable connect and set rates same and use a pc with terminal emulator and send and receive from keys this will check the communication. Might need null modem adapter or custom build cable

So 90% is power supply for h-sync and v-sync is down