Видео

2 years ago ( I am 13 now) I went “over the falls” on my fiber glass 5’ 3” and my board smacked me in the arm. The wave also pulled my wetsuit over my head so I couldn’t see. I could also barely breathe. I ended up just fracturing my arm.

Surfing for 35 yrs best thing I learnt going over the fails on big waves just relax if your fighting you end using to much energy and increasing your chances of drowning doesn't matter was size surf there's always a chance to get hurt from head high to 30ft . Now know your limits i grew up we didn't have safey vests or jetskis so if your not comfortable in big waves your better off not going out. I personally duck dive much as I can until i reach the impact zone and still try to duck dive if I can. If I know I going to get one on the head then I dive down as deep as I can until I don't feel tugging on my leash.and big days use the rips out to your advantage as you save energy. Big wave surfing fun but if your feel your out of your league don't puddle out there is no trophy for stupidity. And you end up putting lives in danger

Very good information

1:34 you see him in the wave

In water surf camera man offbthe west coast of Ireland I've experienced the tumbles in heavy sets....I think the longest I got held down was maybe 45 seconds but it feels like forever ...ide always try and curl myself up into a ball and tuck my neck in....I bumped a reef a number of times but only had a bad scrape once...I always remember thinking relax and hope for the best....give your mind into the wave....feel for the release in energy when the wave has weakened but ile always admit there was anxiety over the swim up to surface again....well your already being thrown along the froth on top.. But that point where you can actually thrust with your fins to get your head above the froth....I had fins attached with ankle straps...even scarier for surfers without fins....in a weird way sometimes I quite liked it...but when you have to surrender your mind to the force of the wave whilst rolling under and ide always close my eyes whilst tumbling it is always scary....then there's the other side too......the amazing feeling and visual aspect of duck diving perfectly under the sweeping barrel of a big wave is mesmerising....truly beautiful....one thing I won't do is swim film on shore dumping waves....landing on hard sand if sent over the lip can really damage your body .. .sand is so much harder than one thinks when wet .....the only thing I truly feared was canyons in granite reefs and protruding boulders on reefs as you can get caught in them or bashed on a protruding boulder on top of a reefs...if reefs are generally flattish you've better chance of rolling over and above them.....ide prob wear a gath helmet these days though...you can't control the direction your body rolls under a big set...just tuck in an hope for the best...like someone said above looking at the set of waves beyond the first wave can help...get a feel for the grouping within the set might tell help your instinct of timing when coming up after first wave....ile tell you know even 45 seconds feels like 5 minutes ! Surf camera man co.mayo/sligo/claire/donegal west coast Ireland...

I lived on the North shore of Rocky point pipeline sunset most intense injuries

at what size do waves start to become dangerous? like to the point where any surfer would think if you're gonna ride that thing you better not wreck.

I once saw someone go over the falls at pipeline, straight into the reef. He came out with all of the skin torn off of his back, and the backside of his rash guard gone, still with chunks of coral in him 🙏

Ah thy ol sucked over thy falls

Omg i went over the falls on about a 15 footer

Thank you I think I‘ll just stay in the boat 😂

Take one hell of a deep breath.😂✌️

I used to worry about when my leash was going to shoot back my board at me like a sling shot...Ouch, that was always a thing.

Something that happens to me often is when the wave is to vertical

Nearly 40 years ago at Manly Sydney (Australia) in very big surf for that beach. I thought they were about 10' +. I had finally struggled out the first line. I was already tired and misjudged the wave, they were very irregular. Over the falls I went. Totally disorientated, i swam into the bottom. I had plenty of air left, but had no idea how much water was above me. I got to the surface only to get smacked by another wave. I wasn't in trouble, but plenty beat up. I think it took another ten minutes to get back to the beach and I was thoroughly knackered. Crawling out of the surf a couple of clubbies on patrol came up. "Jeez, you copped a flogging mate. Don't worry, we had an eye on you when you wiped out and watched you all the way back. We were pretty sure you would make it after you popped out of the second wave." At least my pride was intact.

I always say "If you have to ask yourself if you need more rest?" Take 15 more minutes.

really great explanation man. I love the visual aid charts to help get an idea. Keep up the good work bro!😎

I still have nitemares not from the fall but the ride i took tumbling and getting pinned by the entire set with next to no air from getting the wind knocked out of me from hitting the water....i remember saying just get me out of here and i will never drop into a 30ft wave again!! Oh btw i paddled back out ten minutes later

Had my fair share at Waimea bay and Sandi’s On Oahu Hawaii 💯🔥💪🤙

I was at Urban surf Sydney I was bodyboarding and I got sucked over the falls

I'm not a surfer yet, but this past summer I went to Hawaii and I jumped into similarly violent waves without much experience in the ocean. They put up a warning sign not to get into water due to weather which I foolishly ignored. One of the big waves hit me hard and I tumbled and hit my face on the bottom of the ocean floor HARD. I heard a loud crack on my neck and I was momentarily paralyzed. The impact was so hard that it broke my tooth. The big and powerful waves kept hitting, not giving me any moment to gasp for air. Panic kicked in and I heard my self moan - I was completely out of air and I accidentally breathed water into my lungs out of reflex. While under water (simultaneous being punched by waves), I was able to grab the bottom floor and clawed my hands so I don't get pulled deeper into water. I waited until the wave pushed me towards the shore. I was able to push my self out of water for a brief moment before being hit hard again. Little by little, I made progress. I was completely out of energy, and the waves carried me to the shore with my face on the floor. I slowly crawled out of water, but survived. I was SO relieved to get out of water. Someone offered to call 911. Luckily my neck wasn't broken and I was able to drive back to hotel. Couldn't move my neck for weeks, but I'm still alive. I didn't watch this video and I had no idea how to deal with waves.

Can confirm white water is by far the best way to get to shore instead of trying to swim. Saved my life when I was a dumb teenager and went in 55f, 5ft-8ft waves, no life guard, with zero protection after not having been in the water since last year. I was held down 4 times and only got in two breaths. Coming up from the 4th wave I even swallowed a decent amount of water. It was horrifying to be breathing in the water even if it was a few seconds whilst returning to the surface. I remember thinking: "this is how I die" and seeing myself in the water from a 3rd person perspective. It was very surreal. I had absolutely no dexterity due to the cold. I thought for sure despite surviving 2 separate multiple wave hold down, another set would come and I'd not make it because I was stuck in the white water. However, I was able to stay on my board and position it towards the beach. With the only strength I had left, I gripped the board and road the white wash in on my stomach. I was ungodly lucky another set didn't come, and that there was white wash from waves that had broken much further back to propel me towards the beach. I collapsed on the shore, threw up water, and then coughed up water for 5 minutes. My surf buddy had paddled further back and couldn't see me. No one could have saved me but me. No one should ever risk that. Don't just go with one person, go with multiple and make sure everyone gets to the line up. I never took for granted Mother Nature again. I stick to collecting sea glass, and I never go in 3ft+ waves. I miss getting ragdolled by big waves, but the experience shook me too much.

I’m a body surfer from wedge

If Im getting worked I try to remain calm and embrace the suck!

I have had such experiences and it’s terrifying!!!!!

Sick bro!

Boogie board. Got sucked over at Blacks in a winter swell. Machined but not too bad. At least I knew there was sand below. The worst however, again at Blacks, was when I was about to get one large on the head and ditched my board. Leash wrapped around my leg and I got pounded by a couple more. I never ditch now.

This wave is so impressive I barely noticed bikini girl on the jet ski at 0:50 and I consider myself a prominent Man of Culture.

ive gone over many times. i tuck my head, take a deep breath and wait.

I remember when I was at this beach where it’s like massive wave I got a massive wipeout and then I got up and it dragged me down again let’s just say that was scary because I was low on breath

You forgot to mention that another great way to avoid going over the falls is to surf smaller waves or not surf at all!

I have no desire to be a kid again. Crowds of kids with cameras dangling from their mouths that are never wrong. No parking and fistfights. Play Ice Hockey. There is more honor.

Borders... Language... Culture

Great video, thank you for this. Something similar happened to me a few days ago at La Gravière in Hossegor. I paddled out from Plage Naturiste, where the current is very strong. It pushed me about 500 meters to La Gravière. Being fed up with the current I decided to paddle back to the beach so I could walk back to my starting point. I was approaching the shore when a set of three waves took me by surprise. Hossegor is a sandy beach with beach breaks and a steep ocean floor. I saw the waves coming and started paddling out like hell! The moment I realized I wasn’t going to make it, I saw a huge 10-12ft glassy wall of water-like a monster-ready to break over me with the speed of a train. My first thought was: “Oh shit, here we go!” I didn't really know what to do, so I quickly prepared to duck dive, my heart beating twice as fast as normal. I failed, and the wave lifted me up and smashed me down into turbulence I had never experienced before. Knowing there were more waves coming, I tried to get to the surface as soon as possible, but the whirlpool kept me down. Before the next wave hit, I managed to take a few breaths, but this time I started to panic. The next wave was bigger and stronger, and I found myself in a weird place where I couldn't tell which way was up or down. My lungs were crying out in panic, and then I suddenly remembered-the leash! I grabbed the leash and pulled myself up to the board. I popped up into the white foam, my lungs screaming for oxygen. I took a short breath, and once again-here we go. The third wave was smaller but still strong. It held me down, and I started to think, “I can't take a fourth one; I'm done.” After the third wave, I was closer to the shore, so the fourth one was just a wall of white water, giving me a bumpy ride to the shallow water, where I limped to the beach. I was coughing and shaking for five minutes before I finally made it back to my starting point. No more surfing for me that day. That was my scariest surfing experience-totally helpless, my heart full of fear, out of breath, while the ocean kept pushing me down.

Before I would start surfing, I first would learn how to keep my breath as long as possible to be able to stay under water for longer periods. It's a crazy sport. I stay with windsurfing.

Cocoa Beach Pier 1st day after hurricane Bill in the morning didn’t make it out. There was Shorebreak mid pier end pier, and then for outside the pier normally we only have end pier which is basically three swells coming in. So I went out in the afternoon again and it was even bigger, but I watched the ocean when it would stretch back. Since the ocean started pulling back, I went for it and paddle for 45 minutes puking towards the end and then I saw them! I paddled with everything I had I was riding my 6’6” and dammit if the first wave of the set, didn’t just jack and start coming over before I can get over it and I got to say there at least 1520 footers on the outside there and it got quiet. The lip came over and knew I was done for of course I was all by myself, and so I started diving straight down as deep as I could get ,after the first explosion? Three waves later, I surfaced…after the second one I had my mouth closed with my hand over it, and it was pinching my nose with my other hand because my lungs were trying to get air and I pretty much thought I was gonna drown that day, someone touched me on the shoulder as I was nodding out and calmly said in my ear relax Paul just relax you’re gonna be just fine!? Well, I I got sum air took a couple more in the head, and just bellied my board back in all the way to the beach feeling like a Joe. I did go out the very next morning in the same damn thing almost happened again, but I had a pretty good ride and pretty good session that morning as far as technique goes when I’m not diving for my life, sometimes I will duck dive and roll with my board because it is rough sometimes and you get knocked off your board. I found that rolling is easier to recover regain paddling.

If you duck dive everything is good, but you're being tossed, tilt your rails up and down you will surface faster...just HOLD On!

i was making a ball to try and do this and i caught a huge one and it smashed my leg into the beach and broke my leg

NEVER underestimate the Power of the Sea...

Shipstern looks pretty darn thick to me.

What if you are using one of those beginner boards that you cant duck dive in

In summary: 1 - Keep calm; 2 - Control your breath; 3 - Momentary pause; 4 - Quick Poll Question; 5 - Pray for God. Hugs from Brazil! Aloha!

oh fine ! :) as "a local" somewhere ;) i disagree a lot with many " locals" that complain.🤬 they are not fully honest ! i was thinking, tourists are there ... 10 am/miday 2pm/6pm ... july and august ( west coast of France) we know all about spots and tides ! this spot half tide for goofies, this other " full tide" ... and so on come on ! if you are lazy to wake up don't surf ! and we know that best tides are june and september !! i am not a californian but "wedge" spetember 7am is allready full ??? there is still places to surf peacefully on earth i am sure :)

shit i forgot ! my first email adress was " realsurfer64" 🤣🤣🤣🤣

There was a like 14ft wave and I went under at the wrong time I got carried to the top and smashed on the ground! Very scary

Steal a load of other people clips and drone over it about some stuff we have heard before, its this what youtube is becoming?

What blows me away is how many people surf mavericks now, it’s packed sometimes, I’m sure a lot of the guys are sitting on the shoulder hoping to take off on a smaller one on a small day

Cyclops

Conditioning and luck.

When I first started surfing.I was up a wave and then it started breaking and then that's were it happened