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Don't surf above your possibilities. Maybe you won't surf again.

Nice video. Thank you 🙏

1:38 is nuts, move to a new spot😂😂😂😂

Getting pulled over the falls, I’ve always pretended I was in a night club, being bounced around. Eventually I’ll find the exit.

Ahora quieres coger unas olitas trankilo tú pico de siempre "hablo de treinta años en la misma ola" y llegan seis niñatos que no saben ni coger una puta ola a hablarme de localismo......primera ola que cojo; las quillas por la espalda

Old surfer here. I surfed in the days before board chords, in the 70's, at Hanalei. My mantra was to wrap my arms around my board when going over the falls. I've been tucked many a time washing machine fashion. Also relax and let the wave action have its way with you. If/ when you loose your board stay in the white water as it will push you to shore. Stay away from all channels as all that water is rushing off the reef and rushing back to sea. The white water is actually your friend and body surf it back to shore. Never surf big waves when you are physically tired. Rest on shore and surf another day.

I used to swim in waves and try to go over the falls (thanks for the terminology!) Until I did that in a just under 4 meter (13 foot) shorebreak. There was a big set and I was in chest deep water, getting pulled up the wave and slammed right onto like a remaining 30 centimeters (1 foot) of water and sand below. It was an experience I neither want to miss nor repeat. Can't imagine what it must be like to go over the falls of a 50 foot wave, that must be absolutely insane. I was fine that day, but a lady trying the same thing (probably seeing me having fun in the waves, and thinking she'd be fine, if an athletic german dude can do it, she can as well or smth) and she broke her shoulder on a wave just like mine. Waves have incredible power and if I didn't know how to properly protect my head, I could have easily been knocked out. Needless to say I didn't stay in the breaking zone of those waves for long. Usual sets were almost only half that size that day, so it was kind of a surprise to see waves that large. //edit: the one at 1:57 explains almost perfectly the situation I was in xD

You've never surfed.

"Washing machined"

I used to do that on purpose 🤙

Jesus loves us all ❤

God loves us all ❤

Ayayay !

I almost always try to duck dive because my leash has been snapped to many times throwing the board to the side. Long swim back to the beach and can be dangerous if you really got hammered.

Excellent Coverage, nice slowing down the Video. Recommend using Red Arrows to show some details also. Another RUclipsr Brad Jacobsen always does an excellent job with his Visual Arrows and extremely slowing down his Videos. Your under water duck Videos are the best I’ve ever seen. Great job on that 🙏

I carry a pack of cigarettes 🚬 under my board so I can smoke before the 2 wave hold down. Great video!

what waste of time

You obviously don't know what a slab is. You also need to improve your English a whole lot. This video is a joke.

i woiuld shit myself soo bad if i was in those waves! respectto those who can do ir.

C

If you are a bit older, don't hold onto your board as much. The sudden impact of the white water can strain or tear you rotator cuff. That is a long recovery. If you take the Surf Survival Class from Eco Divers, they teach you blood oxygenation pre-breathing that will double your breath hold. Most of all, relax during the mayhem and think of something nice, that you want to last (eating a mango? Lol). Don't think about the time passing. If the surf is beyond your limits, catch an insider to the beach. Have fun. Be safe.

Definitely no duck dive on those Nazaré waves in Portugal!

as an inlander Canadian who has only gotten to try surfing a couple times, unfortunately, this wave always struck me as the scariest wave just by being so thicc. incredibly beautiful though.

Big wave surfing isn't really surfing. It's ego fulfillment. Even the title of this video is a product of the ego. Going over the falls in 20 foot or bigger waves is something a relative few surfers ever experience.

Great Vid, but i find the narration boring, mundane, monotonous & mono toned

Just liked and subscribed! Best video clips of heavy surf nightmares! But you quickly give the keys to survive the worst. Much thanks as I’m sure it will save someone’s ass! Most of us had to learn this by the experience in the old days!

I would rather have a wave crash on top of me rather than get pitched by the lip

The double suck sux

Don't fight with falling waves. What you do is get rid of the board coming towards your body. It is over time that we learn to be calm with the air so as not to start drinking water out of desperation. So the right thing to do is to do a lot of apnea control exercises and stay calm, never despair. Practice swimming and control apnea and stress control, so you don't act desperately and relax when you feel like you're in a washing machine in the water.

Been there. Almost died. If you're caught in huge sets, which are holding you under for 30, 60, 180 seconds at a time, curl up and protect your head and neck from ocean floor impact, let yourself float to the top, and when you get there, breath as many huge breaths as you can. The next wave is probably falling on you right about now. It's ALL about not panicking. and conserving oxygen. 1 wave (usually) isn't going to kill you. 10 in a row, will. Conserve oxygen. You will always lose if you attempt to fight the ocean.

Aww no , It's got me.

Surfing is not a trend and industry instead of a lifestyle😢

Tip #1 wear flotation device option. Tip # 2 who care what you look like. Tip #3 respect the dead people

Yeah this for sure unlocked a new fear💀

Nazare winter storm wave is the heaviest wave in the world

When I get caught by very big sets- I try to launch my board over the crest then go under and swim like hell. This works no matter what size board if you do it right. I ride very small sticks- Big wave surfers have been doing this from the beginning. I learned this from Jerry Lopez himself- ALOHA from Hawaii- The BIG wave Capitol of the world!

It's good!! TAHITI island🔥

Anyone know the original source of 4:47?

wooh i am glad i surf in one of philippines not so famous but great surfing spot

That happens to me like every time i go surfing

But seriously when you go over the falls on a sizeable one, after hesitating too long, watching the wave to see if it was a nice one and then ya get sucked over without any damage. ...it is a lot of fun....

Caught inside on a beach or reef with easy in and out fine ok but cliffs and bad rocks that's when it's shit.

the inside even sucks with 5 footers

You're correct brother Stay cool and calm Shore break is a different story Unlike the outside

Wow! How many got wiped out in the first few seconds.

0:55 HORRIFYING

The Olympic Wave 2024 ? Sounds interesting.

Laird is such a massive goober

It was at Newport Beach, The Wedge where I had my first Over the Falls moment and It was about mid day and the waves were pretty average at about 4-6ft. But then a huge set came in and I decided that these waves were the perfect ride..I underestimated their break and the first wave I came about, I was pumping the barrel and got too close to the body eventually looping over and falling on a mound of sand instead of water. However after I landed on the sand whitewater swept over me and thankfully the only injury that I had endured was a jammed finger: Note this was on bodyboard