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Excellent tutorial.

Thanks for the great video, I feel very confident now after seeing this video, I’ll be changing mine real soon. I’m also going to replace the collet that took the pin out, to keep from damaging the new pin. Thanks to my coworker James for sharing this video with me.

Obvious you screwed it up once. Now you pretend like you know what you are doing

Good stuff! I love my little 9” and always like knowing how to take better care of my equipment. Thank you for sharing this. ruclips.net/video/-3gpGTVfPw4i/видео.htmli

This video is timely for me. I have had my Bridgeport for about 4 years without issue, then suddenly I could not remove a collet. Turns out, the problem was that my pin was also worn down. Locking the spindle meant that the collet would spin freely in the spindle (no pin). I reviewed several basic tutorials on inserting collets - something I had never done before - and noted that they all say to ensure alignment of the pin. I now understand why the pin is important and cannot be discounted. Thanks for sharing this! I do need to replace my pin. ruclips.net/video/-3gpGTVfPw4i/видео.htmli

RUclips doesn't seem to count gun vid viewings. Bet you actually have a much higher view count.

Thank you. You saved me a lot of work. Well done I'm

Done many of those made me a tool . A piece of 1/8" thick aluminum 5/16" wide radiused on the end and threaded it for the set screw just enough wall for the thread. Piece only has to be about 4" long. And tread the set screw in and it holds the set screw and turns a 10 into a 2 minute job .

The preferred method is to screw the mushroomed dog screw to into the spindle for removal thus not damaging the fine 1/4” threads in the spindle. That’s why the new one was so “slow going” on the install.

Thanks for the great video. I needed to replace the alignment pin on a Jet JTM-2.It was considerably easier on my machine. The set screws were not recessed. I did not have to tram the head. The quill cap has a left hand thread,not a problem. The set screws came out without a problem. I made the key from a 6mm.set screw.Total time was about 30 minutes.

Man your a real genius . Any one with any knowledge can figure that one out.

Mick are those Hanes or Fruit of the Loom socks? I just switched to Dickies you should give them a try

with out that pin it is very hard or next to impossible to tighten or loosen collets....thanks

thanjs

Since my alignment pin was sheered off a couple years ago, I have come to the realization that if it is necessary, my milling ability does not rise to the level that it has an effect on the outcome of my parts. I don't think the alignment pin is all that necessary either. Not enough to have to retram the head.

I just bought a SB lube kit from your eBay store it’s awesome.

Good thing the pin is softer than the spindle threads to be able to remove the smashed pin. When you tried to just thread it on through what stopped it. Is it not tapped clear through the spindle? Maybe to act as a stop do the pin only goes it to a stop? Long but shows real time and what you tried.

Drill a clearance hole in a small piece of flat bar to fit the pin screw and this will hold it vertical to the shaft and make it easier to start.

See also MC1210 (NLGI grade 2) and T25b (NLGI grade 1) synthetic grease from Mil-comm www.mil-comm.com/industrial/mc1210-heavy-duty-grease.

I would always remove the collet pin. If you are using a fly cutter or boring head and taking a heavy intrupted cut there is the danger of the collet hammering itself into the pin. If this happens it is a real pain to get the collet out as it will be jammed very tightly and you can't get the damaged alignment pin out through the screw hole.

Thank you for the lube review. My Heavy 10 will go into service in a week or so. It was totally dismantled, cleaned and painted. Next step: oil.

Thanks for sharing ... its great for the pros like your self to share knowledge and experience keep up the tips and videos best from Charlie

Good info Mick. I tried contacting you on your website without success. I have your oil kit for my 70s South Bend 10K and am wondering how cold it can get in my unheated shop before I should stop operating it. I've been told the cold interferes with bearing lubrication. Any advice?

A Q-tip might just give you the flexibility to "get around the corner" in that tight space. Good "Tip" (pun intended) (A quick look down at the comments: Looks like we're split about 50/50 on weather or not the pin is really needed) No real surprise there.

A Q-Tip to start the dog screw.

A really excellent how to. I've read more than a few forum threads about how to do it but this helps explain it a lot better. That alignment pin being absolutely needed is debatable, but I have found a real good reason to have it. Mines not a real Bridgeport but a Taiwan 3/4 sized clone. I bought one of the Haimer 3D tasters and it needs to be zeroed to the holder it's in and the spindle center line very accurately during the first set up. I'm keeping it in a dedicated end mill holder. That alignment pin forces you to index the end mill holder to the same location in the spindle each time it's used so the tool keeps it's alignment it was set at. Without that I'd likely just remove the alignment pin since I've read a few forum threads where if the pin ever shears off it can sometimes jam the tool holder inside the spindle and it's then a very tough job to get it removed if that happens. I've also read it's better to grind the tip off a damaged alignment pin with something like a Dremel tool as long as your careful not to touch the inside of the spindle itself. That way it does no damage to the female threads for the screws as it's backed out. Running the pin in until it drops out of the spindle is probably the best and easiest method from what I see.

I'm so glad I removed my collet pin years ago - it's not needed and just got in the way most of the time.

You have a gap bed. I do too. Just bought it.

my pin has been flat for years didnt seem to need it ,thought it was a big project to change so i didnt bother. now i see how easy it is ill fix mine Thanks

i have to replace one of these at work.i didn't have a clue on how to do it,thanks for posting this.you made my job easier.......

Great video and explanation on the how's and whys to use each lubricant. I just picked up a Heavy 10 and this was exactly the information I was looking for. Thanks!

Thank you so much for the information.

Brother, I can't tell u how much this Vid is appreciated. I had the mistaken impression that the SHSS that holds Dust Cover was a thru hole to the Collect Align Pin (if u rotated spindle to align the two). Couldn't understand why I didn't see another hex shape when I removed it. You've made it clear >>> crystal. T Y !!

great info thanks this is what i was looking for hoping i did not have to take the hole spindle out just for the pin.

Thanks for explaining all the different types of lubrication for the SB. I watched the whole video and you were very clear as to why they are used and what the reasons were for the different types.

Thanks for the video and your oils Mick.

I'm not sure if it will fit (seem to remember hearing they are different dimensions). A good place to ask that question would be the South Bend Lathe users group on Yahoo. That group is thick with SBL experts, and are very helpful.

mick, I just got an 11 inch 1939 lathe and wonder if you know if a carriage , compound off a yen willful the 11,mine has no provision for a threading guage, how do they measure the dovetails?thankyou joe

Just thought I'd mention that if you use the magnet side of your small screw driver it makes it a lot easier to get the screw in. :)

With my bad back, I like to have stuff at eye level, so I don't have to hunch over. It also gave me an opportunity to show the "quick tram" method with the framing square. I'll bet theres a hundred ways to do the job; this is just one.

Did it without rotating the head..... thanks

Another good informative video. As a younger more obsessive man I would tear down the spindles and back-gear shafts to clean and re-lube them, about every 1 1/2-2 years. Overkill, since I used the lathes about 8 hours a month, not per day. Glad to see there might be an alternative to the "Roy Dean" product. While watching the vid I thought of a product from 35 years ago..."slick 50"...If I remember it too was a PTFE based lube that you added to the crank case of your vehicles engine to add life to your engine by reducing friction and wear. I don't know if it's still available or if it was a failure. Thanks for sharing the vid and offering the lube service. Willie D.

Hi Mick. A very good informative video. While you were lubing the reverse and side gearing I noticed you didn't lube the idler gear/hub. Does your lathe not have a hole in the gear hub to lubricate the gear/bushing assembly? Also, when lubing around the back gear handle and shaft, I think you referred to it as the "bull" gear. Isn't the "bull" gear on the spindle shaft, next to the cone? Thanks for sharing the info. I'm sure it will help many, with the confusion over the different viscosities of the oils and where to use them. Willie D.

Thank you for the video and making the oil kits available. I just got my first machine tool last month, a SB 13" CL 145C. Hope to get a Bridgeport mill soon. Please do post videos of any repairs or adjustments you do on these machines. Any tips too, I am still trying to figure out a smooth finish cut.

How did he know my lathe was sitting right behind me?!? (around 1:00)

Cool to see! I didn't know that pin even existed. Thanks for making this! Also, and please don't take this the wrong way, but maybe some editing? The initial bit where you're turning on the camera, the extended part where you're getting the pin to engage, etc.

Thanks for the video. I have a 1942 South Bend 16x84, and love it!

I've kept your blog for years. Jon and I inherited my 93 yr old father's lathe. I know Jon will want to see these videos. He has done some impressive work already.

Looking forward to seeing the videos about machine lubrication. No, really.

Glad to see you got a video up! Would love to see a walkthrough of the shop and all the new equipment you have.