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Yes can set to 50% of battery capacity. I have in fact started using 50% to tell when to recharge battery. Works great!

I do not believe you can. Only way to silence is disconnecting display unit. You may want to contact Renogy to see if you can.

Just set it to 0 volt and it will never go off.

Capacity should be 50% for you it would be 100 amp. Taking battery below will reduce battery life. 2 & 3 look good. I am not near my RV untill Sunday to check the others. Will get back to you mid day Sunday 4, 5 and 6.

@ramblinroses6066 Thanks, much appreciated. Teck support have advised item 6 is automatically completed by the monitor after a cycle, leave as 0. They can't help with the others, so any input you can give will help. I have e two 100 amp lithium batteries...so total ah available is 200 amps. Hope this helps.

@@rvhtravels Sorry just realized you have a lithum monitor. I have a 200ah LGM battery (lead type) and monitior. Mine only has cap, high, low and alarm. It looks like your alarm should be 100ah to provide an alarm for 50% of battery used to allow long life on battery but of course that is lead batteries. Not sure about lithium batteries the 10ah you are using maybe correct not able to make a judgement.

The compressor was no longer in car. Pictures seen on internet show the compressor on the riverside of engine

Conected to the standard 100amp-hr lead acid battery that came with the LGM. Not a renogy battey. Works great!

awesome thanks!@@ramblinroses6066

This set up will give you an approximate battery meter as it comes from the voltage of the battery, the smart battery will be more precise. I have opted with this set up as I don’t need as much detail

"Renogy" same sas in the title of Video

"Renogy" Same as in title of Video.

Glad you like the video. Did not realise the controller was positive ground type. I have no problems with it and my system is a negative ground system.

The link is below in video description. Here it is on Amazon: www.amazon.com/Renogy-500A-Battery-Monitor-Programmable/dp/B07RP5B5P7

@@ramblinroses6066 yeah that's the Renogy I have, where's this RENOLOGY you kept saying??

Not sure why staying at 100%. Try reprogramming. Also, try removing any power that may be charging batteries and see if percent charged decreases.

Good news if 12v proves to be efficiently use of battery

Weekenders would be fine with one or two AGM's Full timers will be and have been switching to Li anyway with the huge price reduction of Li Batteries. The best thing....nobody will burn to death from absorption fridge fires.@@ramblinroses6066

You will probably can get the batteries in the underneath dining bench. The problem will be is that the front loading may be unbalancing the trailer to much to the front when considering the water tank being filled with water when you boondack. My battery is 163 lbs. Of course you can balance the with more weight in the back storage. Her is a video I made to check safe tongue weight and balancing trailer that may help ruclips.net/video/QVpKBQ8rVuE/видео.html

Lion Li batteries are only 23 lbs each. I can have 630 AH and be 25 lbs less than your battery.@@ramblinroses6066

No DC-DC MPPT charger required.

Sorry to hear you are having a problem. When I am not using RV, I disconnect the plug on the back of the monitor. The reason I do this there is small draw on the battery when not connected to shore power and over time would discharge the battery.

You can use the same for all batteries, type does not matter.

It will tell you in the manual.

I find your comment strange, what i s an emergency? To me an emergency is failure like strange sounds or overheating of wheel hub. If that was the case using the EZ lube would be not warranted and an investigation needed before moving trailer. 2nd to this, I found nothing on Dexter Axle site to indicate what you shared....To the contrary......No bulletins advising of problem. Here is what is posted: Application Manual - www.dexteraxle.com/user_area/content_media/raw/applications-manual-(lit-008-00).pdf Video Posted in Applications Manual - ruclips.net/video/XT0RKDGgDm8/видео.html

Here is a video contrary to your claim......that EZ Lube system is only for emegencies!!! Dexter EZ Lube works! Don’t listen to RV dealer fibs - ruclips.net/video/q0_jTrjMs9g/видео.html&feature=share

@@ramblinroses6066 You're right, dealers will lie to sell the EZ Lube as a be all, end all. If you're not removing your races and bearings, checking your spindles, removing old grease, your axle component maintenance is horribly lacking after 12 months or 10K miles. Most people don't know to "burnish" new brakes in or how to check and adjust them.

@@ramblinroses6066 Those were redone by hand. If you look hard enough the one race had corrosion on it.......so much for quality maintenance on his part. There's evidence of old or oxidized grease remaining. COMMON SENSE: Old grease is heavier than new grease. Plus a measure old grease caked will be present, will be a different color. The new grease will come out of EZ Lube long before old grease will, it has less resistance. The worse of the old grease is still in there. Sorry but some maintenance requires getting your hands dirty. The EZ way is not the best at all, no visual check of the components.

@@ramblinroses6066 Learn how to replace and properly lubricate your bearings. Carry a complete full replacement set, grease, wooden block, rubber hammer,large flat screwdriver. If there is a failure while traveling a little elbow grease and 45 minutes you will be back up and running.....safely.

I used #4 AWG but I have 2000 watt inverter setup. If you only have 1 wire on the negative side, it should be the same size.

Same for me on adding to RV roof.....besides if RV is in shade no sun. With this method solar panels can be moved to capture sun.

Great! Inexpensive must have, just love being able to reliably monitor battery status!

Thanks for the comment. The current draw shown is actually the inside the trailer electronics, including the battery monitor draw, not from tow vehicle. Look at the beginning of video current draw without car connected with no shore power is .34amps 4 watts.

@@ramblinroses6066 and at the end its o. 15,a difference of 19.

Not certain what you mean. The skirts are on the car.

Thank you for comment. Yes, road tested. No problems with controller wiring. There is a zip tie on the controller to secure wiring with drilled holes through th wood board. The solar panels are stored away under the queen bed in the back disassembled. The solar panel wires are very robust, if you are concerned about solar panel wires, you could zip tie to frames, I have chosen not put zip ties.

For the solar controller build, in the description is a link to the solar controller build that shows the zip ties to secure wires. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/GSKI2EY9ItY/видео.html

I used a razor blade knife. Currently traveling from NY to AZ. Just upgraded my camera for the trip and it fantastic and planning to post a new video with same install link. Will send product link.

Here is the camera link for the camera I recently bought on Amazon: a.co/d/f7iJbL6

@@ramblinroses6066 Thanks so much, Frank, for your replies. I actually bought the same 7-in model you've provided a link for. We'll be heading out west on Jan 1. I'd like to have my camera/monitor kit installed and tested by then. Will your updated rearview camera install video be online soon? I'd be happy to wait to install mine to learn from your new insights. Please let me know. I intend to mount my camera with the help of multiple strong magnets to my spare tire rack.

Yes will post next week. The install is the same with this new camera so will not be repeat that portion, just providing link back to previously posted video.

I have an 8 speed transmission. On the flats going 55 to 60 it usally runs 7 to 8. I too hate the 4 and 5 speeds. So what I do is run in cruise control and when I get to hills I slow down the cruise control to lower spped as needed to not go to 4 or 5 speed. When I get on the downside of hill, I take it back to 60mph usually. Using this technic my gas mileage is much better than just leaving cruise at 60mph. My rpm is is usually 2500 to 3000.

Well, Packard had "pushbutton" windows in the same years as Cadillac's and also, in 1956, had an electric door locking system!

Air fryer is 800 watts. Just love the Battery Monitior. The other day, checked my Jeep to see how much the charge was and see if there was no draw from my frailer when my Jeep was off.....worked great!

Sorry about the air fryer being 800watt, I was mistaken it is 1000 watt.

700W is the cooking power NOT the actual power draw. My "800w" microwave takes almost 1300w to run....

I use the shore battery charger provided with the rv which stays, nothing additional is needed.

@@ramblinroses6066 what is a "shore" battery charger? Is it different than a car battery charger?

@@trainmaster0217 shore power is when you plug RV into AC at home or at the RV park. Onboard your RV it converts AC to 12v DC to charge your RV battery.

@@ramblinroses6066 OK, thank you

You will need a solar charge controller. See my link for this: ruclips.net/video/GSKI2EY9ItY/видео.html. All the episodes for this build are below this video you watched.. Good Luck, love my setup, works great.

Yes Yes Yes.....I love this montior too!

Good question. I have the factory installed trailer package on my Jeep Grand Cherokee. It has a larger alternator, not certain if it has a control circuit between the starter battery and 12 volt to trailer.

No AC. It will kill battery fast.

Yes only voltage in and Battery voltage. If you want current you need a battery monitor.

To measure current I installed a battery monitor. Here is video for my install ruclips.net/video/1h7q9Ytd0A4/видео.html

Just a same the controller can only take max 25volt solar panel

A helpful video done by Randi who pulls the Little Guy Max with a Jeep JL. ruclips.net/video/XyO4juiVDZE/видео.html