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Lots of experience with the XR400, not much different than the 250. If you haven't yet, join Thumpertalk.com for the best XR forum on the net for assistance with questions and problems.

Thanks. It's about 3.4 miles from camp to summit. About 1.9 from camp to tree line.

First off, when disconnecting the cables from the carb, DO NOT remove them from the cable bracket. Instead, remove the screw that holds the bracket to the carb and remove the bracket with the cables, their rigging adjustment intact. That prevents the headache of having to re-rig the cables later. I suggest you replace the screw that holds the bracket to the carb with an Allen head screw, 5mm x 12. To re-rig the cables, you're going to have to get the ends connected to the carb, then start taking out cable slack by pulling the cables forward in the bracket and adjusting the jam nuts to hold them in place. Move up to the throttle on the handlebar, rotate the throttle forward (closed) to feel for how much cushion you have (the amount you're able to continue to twist the throttle closed AFTER you feel the slide in the carb bottom out). If the slide doesn't hit hard bottom when you close the throttle, you need to adjust some slack into the PUSH cable, at the carb bracket, until you feel the slide hit hard bottom, plus having just a small amount of cushion in throttle travel after hitting bottom. Then adjust the PULL cable. Make sure the carb slide raises all the way at full throttle. If you don't get full opening of the carb/slide, still too much slack in the cable. Adjust the Pull cable so you get full carb/slide opening, with just a tiny bit of cushion at the end, (slide not opening any more but you can feel the little bit of cushion/over-travel pulling the cable taut. There's a cable adjustment at the throttle itself, but don't mess with that, as it was most likely set properly to begin with. It is a fine tuning adjustment only. If you messed with/backed out the idle speed adjuster or removed it, when you screw it back into the boss on the carb, it's initial setting is 17mm. Measured from the point where the end of the adjuster contacts the throttle drum to the surface of the boss where the adjuster comes out of it. As for the bowl screws. Those are 4mm x 16. I suggest Allen head screws for those too. If the holes have become oversize and stock screws no longer fit, you're looking at drill and tapping to up to the next size (5mm x 16).

THANK U WILL TRY THIS DURING THE WEEKEND, IM SURPRISED NOT EVEN THE SERVICE MANUAL TELLS U HOW TO DO IT, OR IF IT DOES I DIDNT FIND IT. @@Trailryder42

Yes, I've had no problems. I've adjusted the power output of the bar on low beam a few times to get it how I want it, but it's been working fine. I also set the power-up delay to 10 seconds I think it was. I don't want it powering on until the bike is up and running.

@@Trailryder42 thank you so much for replying. I think I found your post on ADV Rider too. I really appreciate you documenting this!

@@Trailryder42 is that delay setting built into the Skene controller?

@@filseyphill No. I installed the Skene in conjunction with the PDM60 load center. That has the programmable delay. It's stock setting for the circuit I connected the Skene to was 7 seconds and I increased it to 10.

Really? That's great. I'll have to take another look at it then. Do you own the current incarnation of the jacket or are you going by other rider reports you've seen?

@@Trailryder42 Technically I own the new version, it got delivered yesterday. But I haven’t been home to see it yet. I’m going off a review on RUclips that showed the new neck placement and how they shortened the cuff zips and moved the cinch straps away from the elbow. It’s also evident by looking at the jacket on RMATV’s website and zooming in. A couple of the reviews mention it as well.

@@OneManTrail Just watched a few reviews of the updated jacket. They've done quite a bit more to it than just address the things I found a problem. I like that they lengthened the jacket a bit too. Everything else they updated came from folks that actually wore the jacket in the field. And RMATV did all this in 1 year. Impressive. Thanks for letting me know.

That is on a Ruger stock not the backpacker stock ...

No. The 250 standard minimum float level setting is 12.5mm, set as shown in the video.

What is your elevation? When you cleaned the carb, did that include removing the fuel mix screw, it's spring washer and oring to make sure everything was there and the oring was in good shape? Blast that passage with cleaner? It almost sounds like you're using the choke lever positions opposite of intended. Thinking OFF ( lever down) is Full choke and Full choke (lever up) is Choke off. Any exhaust or airbox/filter mods from stock make a difference in jetting, so need to know those to.

I did everything you said. Choke Off is down and choke on is up. I’m at 1,300 feet up from sea level.

@@markhodgkinson151 I can find no info on Jet Needle - D625. Don't know its specs or who makes it. What air filter are you running? Becoming difficult to start is also a sign that the valve clearances are tightening up. Clearances get tighter over time and with wear. Check/set clearances to rule out those being the problem. Do you know the specs and procedure for doing that? If you're running something like a UNI air filter and have any mods to the stock exhaust, a 52 pilot will be too lean for 1300' elevation. I'd be running at least a 58. That 140 main would also be way too lean for 1300'. I'd be running a 158 to begin with. The required use of the choke is saying it's showing signs of being too lean. Look for air leaks too. The intake manifold oring periodically needs replacing.

@@Trailryder42 Your comments are so helpful. I double checked my points and your questions. The altitude is from 300m to 600m on a mountain. It lives at 300m but I ride it up to 600m on every outing. Do you think I should go even bigger on the jets? The carb kit was bought on eBay The air filter is a HiFlo Filter bought on eBay I’ve watch videos on valve clearances and I think they should be 0.1mm in and out but will check the manual to be sure. The procedure looks simple but I need to double check the clearance gaps. I haven’t modified the exhaust and think it’s totally stock. I think the carburettor has a spring flap on the choke flap with two little holes in it but I can’t remember because it’s on the bike now. The intake rubber looked ok on inspection but I will double check again.

@@markhodgkinson151 So your elevation range is from about 900 to almost 2000 feet. I'm guessing, from what I can find, the Hiflo air filter is a foam filter? Do you lightly oil it? You should but don't want to oil it so heavily that it leaves a puddle in the bottom of the airbox. Is the cage it slips over the stock stainless steel cage of a Hiflo plastic cage? I don't think mm feeler gauges are accurate enough if they're only in .1mm increments. Use SAE gauge. Intake is .004 inch and exhaust is.005 inch. Be sure you set the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. If you have that right, you should be able to put you finger thru the access ports and feel wiggle in all 4 subrocker arms. Follow the shop manual to be sure your manual decomp system/lever on the handlebar is in spec before and after any valve clearance adjustment you make. If the carb choke plate has a spring loaded flap on it, that's the stock piece. If no spring loaded flap and it just has 2 holes, that's an XRs Only style plate. Did you check/set the carbs float level? If that's off, it will have a big effect on how the engine runs. If your lean problem is float related, it means it's set too low. This video shows how to set it.

Did you also remove the fuel mixture screw, it's spring, washer and oring and blast that passage with cleaner? That is the starting circuit. If it's clogged it will not start. Be careful removing the screw so that you don't lose the other parts. If you're doing it with the carb on the bike, put a rag under the carb to catch anything that falls out. The oring will often stay up in there. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air, as you risk losing it. I'll use a piece of small safety wire or something like a bread tie, shape the end like a hook and fish it out. Be sure to count the number of turns out the screw was set to originally before you remove it, so you can return it to that setting afterward. When you set the valves, did you need to adjust any of them? If they needed adjusting more than .001" or 2, be sure you had set the engine to TDC on the "compression" stroke. If you were set at TDC on the exhaust stroke and made any adjustments, the valves are now set wrong and chances are the engine will not start and run. Does your bike still have a working manual decompression lever on the handlebars? Learn to use that as an easy way to restart an engine during a rolling restart. Comes in handy for just such a situation as having a bum leg for kick starting. The procedure is similar to putting the bike in 2nd or 3rd gear, getting rolling and dumping the clutch, but is a much smoother restart when you add holding the decomp lever. You release the clutch first, then the decomp lever. The engine/transmission doesn't try to lock up when holding the decomp because you're releasing compression by holding the decomp lever. The bike continues to roll. Then you release the decomp lever, compression is restored and the bike easily restarts. This restart method can be done in a much shorter run distance too when you release the decomp immediately after dumping the clutch and the transmission gets turning.

How are you testing for Bog? I suggest doing it on a warmed up engine, neutral, Idling, quickly open/close the throttle off idle. You didn't say what your elevation is. If you're running 160/60 jetting I assume you're near sea level and have airbox and exhaust mods. Moving the needle clip 1 slot higher is leaner. For richer, move the clip down the needle. The pilot mixture screw is not an "air" screw. It's a "fuel" screw. It meters fuel, not air. So, backing out the screw is more fuel, richer.

@@Trailryder42 Thanks again for responding here. I am testing a) as you say at idle and warmed up in nuetral, then also b) going for a ride and noticing the response as well. I'm at sea level in Tasmania start of winter about 10-14 degrees atm. I haven't as yet done the airbox or exhaust mods or "Gordon Mods" as people refer to them, as i had read that others had got away with moving to the bigger main and pilot jets for better start up and figured if I was rebuilding the carb I'd just put the bigger in straight away. Ok, so good to know about the fuel crew! Sounds like I am tightening and leaning it out which the bike likes more. Last night I put the clip lower, so should have even more fuel than before now, so theoretically it will like it even less and I should start to move toward leaning the mix and or looking at the other mods if I want to keep the big jets?

@@carlosellatigo9378 The 160/60 jetting is for bikes near sea level and have had the stock screened air filter cage replaced with something like a much less restrictive, UNI filter and cage, pulling the under-seat snorkle and running a more open exhaust, like the Gordon mod or some aftermarket can. Those allow the engine to breathe better, take in more air, so that's the reason for the richer 160/60 jetting. I don't doubt yours is too rich with that jetting. Be sure you're not over-oiling your air filter.

@@Trailryder42 sounds like after I test ride her in a minute, if it's worse I might want to pickup the stock jets and see how they go. The air intake is stock although the filter type is a foam Hiflow. I guess I can hang onto these jets for if and when I choose to do the other mods. Thanks again 👍

You slide the spring onto the screw first, then the washer , then the oring. So when you insert the whole assembly as one, the oring is leading the way and will settle into its seat at the bottom of the hole.

@@Trailryder42 thanks very much for that. I figured it was but mine was missing or desintegrated!

@@carlosellatigo9378 If the oring doesn't come out with the rest of the screw assembly, look up in the bore and see if it's still in there. If it is, be careful blowing it out with compressed air so as not to lose it. I will often have to fish it out with the wire from bread bag tie or piece of safety wire, with a tiny hook bent in the end.

@@Trailryder42 Thanks for that tip. I was actually wondering if it's possible for fuel that's gone bad to wear away the o ring so much it desintegrates, as when I removed the screw there was a slimy black oil like film on the threads, and no o ring. The bike had a very laquered bowl and other components I've had to soak and clean numerous times.

@@Trailryder42 when you say bore, where do you mean exactly?

You're asking about the Ruger "Takedown" model? I've never seen or heard of anyone taking the tensioner adjuster dial out of the block. Looking at mine, it seems like its pressed in, which would make it difficult to remove. When you took the gun apart the first time, was the adjuster a loose fit in the block, from the factory? I don't believe that is right. If that is what you have going on and the gun is new to you, I'd take it back or call Ruger Support to see if you got a defective rifle and what they can do about it.

I hope you left a comment on the Rocky Mountain website of your experience. I feel like the Explorer gear has potential, it just needs more refining. They can't do that without input.

@@Trailryder42 Yes, I did. Also it looks like the spell correct changed my wording it should be "fit". I also called them and told them what the issues were. My issues are: 1) too tight around my biceps, 2) I didn't like the fly gusset, 3) the material that they use (lycra?) to hold the pads in place is to flimsy. 4) This resulted in the pads sliding and shifting around. 5) The whole outfit just seemed disproportioned. 6) the outer shell material seemed like it would be very durable however, it also made it very stiff and uncomfortable. 7) Just putting this on at home and walking around the house I started sweating which made it even more uncomfortable. I hate to say it, but I did tell them this as well, that it's the most uncomfortable thing that I've tried to put on in many many years. Lastly, I like RM but they need to fix these problems... take care.

Here's a link to the manual that comes in the box with the Charger originally. ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/charger.pdf

I was running the Gordon modded stock exhaust, UNI air filter with snorkle removed. When I was still running the stock carb, I think I ran 150/50, needle 2nd clip at 9k where we would ride Rampart. Over 10k that jetting would sputter. Not knowing if your bike breathes with your mods any better than mine did at those elevations, it's and educated guessing game. But I'd say if it's sputtering riding high speed like it's rich, definitely come down on the main. Make 1 change at a time and evaluate. I had thought of trying 148/48 jetting but I never got around to it before I did the 440 big bore and Mikuni carb setup. Good luck with your experimenting.

@Trailryder42 ,, I just bought the bike last fall .. no snorkel etc looks like all gordens mods.. Thank you for reply I think your exactly Right it's Running too Rich ! I tried a 160 main and sputter got worse .. . It sure had good low end puch thou I spun out and dumped it .. thanks again appreciate the info, and re assurance that I'm going in Right direction ✊️

It can be difficult to get rid of it completely. It takes proper/careful jetting/tuning of the pilot circuit (fuel screw and jet) and proper clip position of the needle for the transition from pilot circuit to midrange. But just given the nature of the 4 stroke engine, in which you have a compression and firing of that compressed fuel charge only once every 4th stroke, whacking the throttle open and expecting instant response when the engine is in some other stroke besides that, is unrealistic. Besides, whacking the throttle open from closed to near full is not a real world, actual riding, throttle input. Tune it for the best off idle response you can get for actual riding and go with it.

@@Trailryder42 I re jetted for the pipe and air box. Can the fuel screw cam be adjusted with the carb still on the bike

@@kylechupick2232 The fuel screw is that brass screw at the front of the carb float bowl pointing down. Yes, it can be adjusted with the carb on the bike. Turning it IN, clockwise is leaner. OUT, counter clockwise is richer. You should never go more than 3 turns out from fully seated. For your elevation, intake and exhaust mods, you want to try to size your pilot jet so that your fuel screw setting, when you have it adjusted for best off idle throttle response and power, is around 2 turns out, ideally.

When you say "idle" screw, I take it you mean the black knob. It is not uncommon to need to turn that idle adjust screw Clockwise 1/2 turn to raise the idle speed a little for better starting, then turning it back after it's warmed up. It just depends on how low of an idle you prefer to run when the bike is warmed up. Running a super low idle is not ideal. Use the choke lever on full (lever all the way up) for starting a cold engine. The technique that works the best on the XR is full choke, bring the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) with the kicker, leave the throttle closed and give it a good hard kick. Every starting kick should be made from the TDC piston position of the engine. If you don't, you're basically wasting your effort. There's a brass screw on the front side of the carb float bowl that points down. That is the fuel mixture screw for the idle circuit. You DO NOT use that for an idle speed adjust. I suggest you join the www.thumpertalk.com/forums/ Me and a whole lot of other XR folks with tons of knowledge on the XRs can help you over there better, with anything you need. I can even give you a link to a free downloadable shop manual to help you work on the bike. This is not a good place to go into a lot of detail.

@@Trailryder42 Thank you very much for quick reply and for the information. I appreciate it very much. Kind regards..

Yes.

I need to get back out there too. This was taken before GoPro started making their cameras with built in auto stabilization. Had to use a gimbal if you wanted smooth video.

On High it is very bright. The first time I used high I was pulling into a very dark campground, no stars, no moon and it lit up the whole place for 100 yards.

Glad to hear it. Yeah, that hole being covered is something you'd never figure out if you didn't know it was there, and even if you did, most people wouldn't give it second thought.

Fixed it. The tensioner was stuck out. Had to loosen it then tap it back in some. Must have been jammed. Thank you!!!

@@Cogzed Take a look at my part 2 video where I discovered that there's no washer under the tensioner bolt head from the factory. And the damage and wear that condition causes to the bolt hole in the stock.