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Trailryder42
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Добавлен 1 янв 2012
Chicken Corners, Moab Utah
June 30th, '24, The day after arriving in Moab from riding the Rimrocker Trail from Montrose. From what I could tell beforehand, it's a relatively easy route and it was. But that doesn't mean you can let your guard down.
Просмотров: 336
Видео
Rimrocker Trail Part 2
Просмотров 1322 месяца назад
Nucla to Moab. July '24 The deeper we got into this part of the trail, the harder it was for the bigger bikes. When we got to the S17 Road bailout, we rode Hwy 141 North to Gateway. Got gas then rode John Brown Road west out of there to Castle Valley Road, which was a very nice ride all by itself, then hung a left on Hwy 128 to Moab. The big bikes were a KTM 1090 and a 790S with Trail Tricks su...
Rampart Trail 770G
Просмотров 232 месяца назад
I finally located and rode the 3.5 mile long 770G last week. What a beautiful trail.
Rampart 770A Rear View
Просмотров 103 месяца назад
Thought I'd try videoing a ride with a rearward facing perspective. This is a part of Trail 770A in Rampart Range, Colorado. Beautiful trail. I didn't quite tighten the mount screw enough, so the camera gets jarred a bit, changing perspective a little, but still good enough to watch.
Alley Oop Rides Rampart Range
Просмотров 383 месяца назад
My buddy Barry testing out his new Gopro at Rampart Range. You'll see why I call him Alley Oop at the end.
Turtle Mountain Crash
Просмотров 248 месяцев назад
A short 2 minute video of riding the Turtle Mountain single track in Rampart Range, Colorado. Lots of tight trees close to the trail. I clipped one and it thru me down hard.
Cottonwood Canyon
Просмотров 1810 месяцев назад
The most scenic section of Cottonwood Canyon in the Escalante National Park area, Utah.
Thank you so much!
Thanks for the tip! Saved me hours of work and potential headaches. Worked great on my 2019. Took about an hour including painting the cut parts.
Thanks, I'm just about to reassemble my XR400 carb but had a couple of questions on how it went back together which this video has answered perfectly, thank you again!
Very helpful!
Nice Vid, I have ridden there a couple of times, beautiful ride!
Hi there! Do you have any experience working on XR250s ? I’m trying to get help with a problem on my 2003. I would appreciate any assistance.
Lots of experience with the XR400, not much different than the 250. If you haven't yet, join Thumpertalk.com for the best XR forum on the net for assistance with questions and problems.
I did this years ago when I had my XR. As the guy says there is a bit of performance gain with this, I actually found it easier to start, if cold would just too bike on its side to get extra fuel in. Recommend doing this 100%.
Idk if you’re still active but I figured mention you traveled through hotsprings, do you know? Are you just keeping quiet or truly had no idea? Delete my comment if it’s the former, if it’s the latter I’ll tell you friend
Update to this Jacket in case you haven't heard. Rocky Mountain has addressed all of these concerns plus several others from other input they got, and in only a year after they introduced it. Worth another look. ruclips.net/video/nKw43fAViFE/видео.html
Great video, this is exactly what I was looking for
Congratulations! Excellent accomplishment. I did the west peak as a teenager many years ago. I'm unsure of my ability to do it again. I am from the midwest and the altitude plays havoc with me. How far did you walk from your tent to the summit? Great job again.
Thanks. It's about 3.4 miles from camp to summit. About 1.9 from camp to tree line.
Anyone know how to install the throttle cables back on the carb and adjust them? I also think I stripped the float bowl screws (3). When i would place them in the hole, they would just fall right in as if the hole had gotten bigger somehow. I ended up buying bigger screws from oreillys dont like the result but i have to get the bike fixed.
First off, when disconnecting the cables from the carb, DO NOT remove them from the cable bracket. Instead, remove the screw that holds the bracket to the carb and remove the bracket with the cables, their rigging adjustment intact. That prevents the headache of having to re-rig the cables later. I suggest you replace the screw that holds the bracket to the carb with an Allen head screw, 5mm x 12. To re-rig the cables, you're going to have to get the ends connected to the carb, then start taking out cable slack by pulling the cables forward in the bracket and adjusting the jam nuts to hold them in place. Move up to the throttle on the handlebar, rotate the throttle forward (closed) to feel for how much cushion you have (the amount you're able to continue to twist the throttle closed AFTER you feel the slide in the carb bottom out). If the slide doesn't hit hard bottom when you close the throttle, you need to adjust some slack into the PUSH cable, at the carb bracket, until you feel the slide hit hard bottom, plus having just a small amount of cushion in throttle travel after hitting bottom. Then adjust the PULL cable. Make sure the carb slide raises all the way at full throttle. If you don't get full opening of the carb/slide, still too much slack in the cable. Adjust the Pull cable so you get full carb/slide opening, with just a tiny bit of cushion at the end, (slide not opening any more but you can feel the little bit of cushion/over-travel pulling the cable taut. There's a cable adjustment at the throttle itself, but don't mess with that, as it was most likely set properly to begin with. It is a fine tuning adjustment only. If you messed with/backed out the idle speed adjuster or removed it, when you screw it back into the boss on the carb, it's initial setting is 17mm. Measured from the point where the end of the adjuster contacts the throttle drum to the surface of the boss where the adjuster comes out of it. As for the bowl screws. Those are 4mm x 16. I suggest Allen head screws for those too. If the holes have become oversize and stock screws no longer fit, you're looking at drill and tapping to up to the next size (5mm x 16).
THANK U WILL TRY THIS DURING THE WEEKEND, IM SURPRISED NOT EVEN THE SERVICE MANUAL TELLS U HOW TO DO IT, OR IF IT DOES I DIDNT FIND IT. @@Trailryder42
Is your dimmer still working with your light bar?
Yes, I've had no problems. I've adjusted the power output of the bar on low beam a few times to get it how I want it, but it's been working fine. I also set the power-up delay to 10 seconds I think it was. I don't want it powering on until the bike is up and running.
@@Trailryder42 thank you so much for replying. I think I found your post on ADV Rider too. I really appreciate you documenting this!
@@Trailryder42 is that delay setting built into the Skene controller?
@@filseyphill No. I installed the Skene in conjunction with the PDM60 load center. That has the programmable delay. It's stock setting for the circuit I connected the Skene to was 7 seconds and I increased it to 10.
It looks like they probably saw this video because all those issues have been addressed on the current inventory of this jacket. Thank you for making this video.
Really? That's great. I'll have to take another look at it then. Do you own the current incarnation of the jacket or are you going by other rider reports you've seen?
@@Trailryder42 Technically I own the new version, it got delivered yesterday. But I haven’t been home to see it yet. I’m going off a review on RUclips that showed the new neck placement and how they shortened the cuff zips and moved the cinch straps away from the elbow. It’s also evident by looking at the jacket on RMATV’s website and zooming in. A couple of the reviews mention it as well.
@@OneManTrail Just watched a few reviews of the updated jacket. They've done quite a bit more to it than just address the things I found a problem. I like that they lengthened the jacket a bit too. Everything else they updated came from folks that actually wore the jacket in the field. And RMATV did all this in 1 year. Impressive. Thanks for letting me know.
This was my exact problem. I didn't realize you could tighten the TD barrel (purchased it used without manual) and thought my Gemtech Mist was messed up for the last 3 years. Randomly saw a comment about adjusting the locking piece and found this video. I had the action bolt too tight as shown in the video. Once I backed that out I was able to tighten up the barrel locking collar and my Mist is now not randomly throwing rounds 8 inches. Thank you!
Yay for protective gear. Hope you didn't get banged up too bad.
Thats a magnetic tree
If you watch this video the bolt had a brass bushing for the bolt… ruclips.net/video/cZs9RwlT5so/видео.htmlsi=l0CZ_NwITrXDASRM
That is on a Ruger stock not the backpacker stock ...
no shit sherlock
Xplorer pants are amazing after break in, super comfortable and definitely very waterproof. Jacket has been sold out so haven’t tried that yet
I was wondering why breaking the gun down was so hard! Thanks for the tip.
Grate video. Are the float measurements the same for a xr250r 2003?
No. The 250 standard minimum float level setting is 12.5mm, set as shown in the video.
Honda XR400R done 4000km and was getting difficult to start Once started it would only run on half choke. So I bought a rebuild carb kit with all the needles and rubber rings. Hex Main Jet - #140 Slow Jet - #52 Jet Needle - D625 Fitment: Fit for Honda XR400R 1998-2004 Cleaned that carb like a new pin. Fitted the new parts. Paid attention to the original screw settings. Starts easily no choke. Open it up it dies. Put half choke on it just about let’s you open the throttle but doesn’t like it. Put full choke on and can open the throttle and drive about easily. What have I done wrong and what do I need to do?
What is your elevation? When you cleaned the carb, did that include removing the fuel mix screw, it's spring washer and oring to make sure everything was there and the oring was in good shape? Blast that passage with cleaner? It almost sounds like you're using the choke lever positions opposite of intended. Thinking OFF ( lever down) is Full choke and Full choke (lever up) is Choke off. Any exhaust or airbox/filter mods from stock make a difference in jetting, so need to know those to.
I did everything you said. Choke Off is down and choke on is up. I’m at 1,300 feet up from sea level.
@@markhodgkinson151 I can find no info on Jet Needle - D625. Don't know its specs or who makes it. What air filter are you running? Becoming difficult to start is also a sign that the valve clearances are tightening up. Clearances get tighter over time and with wear. Check/set clearances to rule out those being the problem. Do you know the specs and procedure for doing that? If you're running something like a UNI air filter and have any mods to the stock exhaust, a 52 pilot will be too lean for 1300' elevation. I'd be running at least a 58. That 140 main would also be way too lean for 1300'. I'd be running a 158 to begin with. The required use of the choke is saying it's showing signs of being too lean. Look for air leaks too. The intake manifold oring periodically needs replacing.
@@Trailryder42 Your comments are so helpful. I double checked my points and your questions. The altitude is from 300m to 600m on a mountain. It lives at 300m but I ride it up to 600m on every outing. Do you think I should go even bigger on the jets? The carb kit was bought on eBay The air filter is a HiFlo Filter bought on eBay I’ve watch videos on valve clearances and I think they should be 0.1mm in and out but will check the manual to be sure. The procedure looks simple but I need to double check the clearance gaps. I haven’t modified the exhaust and think it’s totally stock. I think the carburettor has a spring flap on the choke flap with two little holes in it but I can’t remember because it’s on the bike now. The intake rubber looked ok on inspection but I will double check again.
@@markhodgkinson151 So your elevation range is from about 900 to almost 2000 feet. I'm guessing, from what I can find, the Hiflo air filter is a foam filter? Do you lightly oil it? You should but don't want to oil it so heavily that it leaves a puddle in the bottom of the airbox. Is the cage it slips over the stock stainless steel cage of a Hiflo plastic cage? I don't think mm feeler gauges are accurate enough if they're only in .1mm increments. Use SAE gauge. Intake is .004 inch and exhaust is.005 inch. Be sure you set the engine at TDC on the compression stroke. If you have that right, you should be able to put you finger thru the access ports and feel wiggle in all 4 subrocker arms. Follow the shop manual to be sure your manual decomp system/lever on the handlebar is in spec before and after any valve clearance adjustment you make. If the carb choke plate has a spring loaded flap on it, that's the stock piece. If no spring loaded flap and it just has 2 holes, that's an XRs Only style plate. Did you check/set the carbs float level? If that's off, it will have a big effect on how the engine runs. If your lean problem is float related, it means it's set too low. This video shows how to set it.
That’s a wild ass trip.
Bought a 2002 Xr400r, at the start of the year, which was a little rough visually but was running and starting well. I did an oil and filter change then rode it for about 700km just commuting and it was going well. I then went on a 200km ride with mates where 70km in I came off on a low speed corner and blew out my left knee. I then had to ride home for 130km. On that journey I had to stop 3 times due to pain but was afraid to stop the engine for fear of not being able to start it with a buggered knee. The bike then sat for 2 mths and when I tried to start it it wouldn't. I then pulled the carb and found a nasty scaly green build up inside which I cleaned out and rebuilt the carb, following your tutorial, with new jets etc. I used 60 pilot and 160 main as it has the Gordon mods, it had a 55 and 162 in it, and set the floats as you describe here adjusted the valves but I cannot get it to start it will pop and try to start but I can't get her to run. Not sure what to do other than a pumper but don't want to blow the money if it doesn't work.
Did you also remove the fuel mixture screw, it's spring, washer and oring and blast that passage with cleaner? That is the starting circuit. If it's clogged it will not start. Be careful removing the screw so that you don't lose the other parts. If you're doing it with the carb on the bike, put a rag under the carb to catch anything that falls out. The oring will often stay up in there. DO NOT blow it out with compressed air, as you risk losing it. I'll use a piece of small safety wire or something like a bread tie, shape the end like a hook and fish it out. Be sure to count the number of turns out the screw was set to originally before you remove it, so you can return it to that setting afterward. When you set the valves, did you need to adjust any of them? If they needed adjusting more than .001" or 2, be sure you had set the engine to TDC on the "compression" stroke. If you were set at TDC on the exhaust stroke and made any adjustments, the valves are now set wrong and chances are the engine will not start and run. Does your bike still have a working manual decompression lever on the handlebars? Learn to use that as an easy way to restart an engine during a rolling restart. Comes in handy for just such a situation as having a bum leg for kick starting. The procedure is similar to putting the bike in 2nd or 3rd gear, getting rolling and dumping the clutch, but is a much smoother restart when you add holding the decomp lever. You release the clutch first, then the decomp lever. The engine/transmission doesn't try to lock up when holding the decomp because you're releasing compression by holding the decomp lever. The bike continues to roll. Then you release the decomp lever, compression is restored and the bike easily restarts. This restart method can be done in a much shorter run distance too when you release the decomp immediately after dumping the clutch and the transmission gets turning.
This tutorial is absolutely brilliant and it helped me immensely rebuilding the carbs on my 250 and 400. They both run so much better with a cleaning and proper understanding of carb assembly. Thank you!
I've managed to get my 2002 xr400 going and it starts easy and revs up ok after rebuilding the carb.. It has "bog" now and I am playing with the air screw. I changed the main and idle jets to 160 + 60 as per others recommendations and figured with more fuel coming in now it would require the air screw setting to be around factory settings (2+1/4 turns out) but found it gets nearest to having no bog at about 1 + 1/4 turns out. As I've already set the float, cleaned and rebuilt the carb with o rings and new jets, is it now worth looking at moving the main jet needle one slot higher? I believe bog is a lean condition and figure one slot higher could help more fuel come through earlier on the throttle on. Are there other things to check before doing this on these bikes to remove the bog?
How are you testing for Bog? I suggest doing it on a warmed up engine, neutral, Idling, quickly open/close the throttle off idle. You didn't say what your elevation is. If you're running 160/60 jetting I assume you're near sea level and have airbox and exhaust mods. Moving the needle clip 1 slot higher is leaner. For richer, move the clip down the needle. The pilot mixture screw is not an "air" screw. It's a "fuel" screw. It meters fuel, not air. So, backing out the screw is more fuel, richer.
@@Trailryder42 Thanks again for responding here. I am testing a) as you say at idle and warmed up in nuetral, then also b) going for a ride and noticing the response as well. I'm at sea level in Tasmania start of winter about 10-14 degrees atm. I haven't as yet done the airbox or exhaust mods or "Gordon Mods" as people refer to them, as i had read that others had got away with moving to the bigger main and pilot jets for better start up and figured if I was rebuilding the carb I'd just put the bigger in straight away. Ok, so good to know about the fuel crew! Sounds like I am tightening and leaning it out which the bike likes more. Last night I put the clip lower, so should have even more fuel than before now, so theoretically it will like it even less and I should start to move toward leaning the mix and or looking at the other mods if I want to keep the big jets?
@@carlosellatigo9378 The 160/60 jetting is for bikes near sea level and have had the stock screened air filter cage replaced with something like a much less restrictive, UNI filter and cage, pulling the under-seat snorkle and running a more open exhaust, like the Gordon mod or some aftermarket can. Those allow the engine to breathe better, take in more air, so that's the reason for the richer 160/60 jetting. I don't doubt yours is too rich with that jetting. Be sure you're not over-oiling your air filter.
@@Trailryder42 sounds like after I test ride her in a minute, if it's worse I might want to pickup the stock jets and see how they go. The air intake is stock although the filter type is a foam Hiflow. I guess I can hang onto these jets for if and when I choose to do the other mods. Thanks again 👍
Just playing around with this atm. Does anybody know the air screw washer sequence if you were loading it up before your screw it in goes: the spring then washer then o ring, or is it reverse with the washer sitting "on top of the spring" and the o ring nearest the screw driver end? Cheers.
You slide the spring onto the screw first, then the washer , then the oring. So when you insert the whole assembly as one, the oring is leading the way and will settle into its seat at the bottom of the hole.
@@Trailryder42 thanks very much for that. I figured it was but mine was missing or desintegrated!
@@carlosellatigo9378 If the oring doesn't come out with the rest of the screw assembly, look up in the bore and see if it's still in there. If it is, be careful blowing it out with compressed air so as not to lose it. I will often have to fish it out with the wire from bread bag tie or piece of safety wire, with a tiny hook bent in the end.
@@Trailryder42 Thanks for that tip. I was actually wondering if it's possible for fuel that's gone bad to wear away the o ring so much it desintegrates, as when I removed the screw there was a slimy black oil like film on the threads, and no o ring. The bike had a very laquered bowl and other components I've had to soak and clean numerous times.
@@Trailryder42 when you say bore, where do you mean exactly?
Thank you for uploading this video.
My dial is coming out and won't stay in place after taking apart and cleaning it then putting back together any suggestions
You're asking about the Ruger "Takedown" model? I've never seen or heard of anyone taking the tensioner adjuster dial out of the block. Looking at mine, it seems like its pressed in, which would make it difficult to remove. When you took the gun apart the first time, was the adjuster a loose fit in the block, from the factory? I don't believe that is right. If that is what you have going on and the gun is new to you, I'd take it back or call Ruger Support to see if you got a defective rifle and what they can do about it.
I bought both the coat and pants and had to return them due to awful figment as well.
I hope you left a comment on the Rocky Mountain website of your experience. I feel like the Explorer gear has potential, it just needs more refining. They can't do that without input.
@@Trailryder42 Yes, I did. Also it looks like the spell correct changed my wording it should be "fit". I also called them and told them what the issues were. My issues are: 1) too tight around my biceps, 2) I didn't like the fly gusset, 3) the material that they use (lycra?) to hold the pads in place is to flimsy. 4) This resulted in the pads sliding and shifting around. 5) The whole outfit just seemed disproportioned. 6) the outer shell material seemed like it would be very durable however, it also made it very stiff and uncomfortable. 7) Just putting this on at home and walking around the house I started sweating which made it even more uncomfortable. I hate to say it, but I did tell them this as well, that it's the most uncomfortable thing that I've tried to put on in many many years. Lastly, I like RM but they need to fix these problems... take care.
I Was Worried About The "Wiggle" In Mine, That I Recently Purchased from a "GunShop". (I Have a Charger-TakeDown, & My. Barrell Twists On/Off & "Seats-In" Just Fine. I Didn't Get a Manual or GunCase, So I'm RUclips'n Gun Info.)
Here's a link to the manual that comes in the box with the Charger originally. ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/charger.pdf
Appreciate the Knowledge. Best Xr400 carb video still almost a decade old 👍 i live in Salida Colorado, what size jets do you Run ? I'm at 7k elevation.. I took note of the needle on 2nd position in Colorado . I have a 02 xr 400 . Performance exhaust on it 155 main/ 55 pilot jet sputters at high speed, I just wondered what Size you like best in Colorado?
I was running the Gordon modded stock exhaust, UNI air filter with snorkle removed. When I was still running the stock carb, I think I ran 150/50, needle 2nd clip at 9k where we would ride Rampart. Over 10k that jetting would sputter. Not knowing if your bike breathes with your mods any better than mine did at those elevations, it's and educated guessing game. But I'd say if it's sputtering riding high speed like it's rich, definitely come down on the main. Make 1 change at a time and evaluate. I had thought of trying 148/48 jetting but I never got around to it before I did the 440 big bore and Mikuni carb setup. Good luck with your experimenting.
@Trailryder42 ,, I just bought the bike last fall .. no snorkel etc looks like all gordens mods.. Thank you for reply I think your exactly Right it's Running too Rich ! I tried a 160 main and sputter got worse .. . It sure had good low end puch thou I spun out and dumped it .. thanks again appreciate the info, and re assurance that I'm going in Right direction ✊️
How do you get rid of the bog when I twist the throttle fast from idle to full throttle
It can be difficult to get rid of it completely. It takes proper/careful jetting/tuning of the pilot circuit (fuel screw and jet) and proper clip position of the needle for the transition from pilot circuit to midrange. But just given the nature of the 4 stroke engine, in which you have a compression and firing of that compressed fuel charge only once every 4th stroke, whacking the throttle open and expecting instant response when the engine is in some other stroke besides that, is unrealistic. Besides, whacking the throttle open from closed to near full is not a real world, actual riding, throttle input. Tune it for the best off idle response you can get for actual riding and go with it.
@@Trailryder42 I re jetted for the pipe and air box. Can the fuel screw cam be adjusted with the carb still on the bike
@@kylechupick2232 The fuel screw is that brass screw at the front of the carb float bowl pointing down. Yes, it can be adjusted with the carb on the bike. Turning it IN, clockwise is leaner. OUT, counter clockwise is richer. You should never go more than 3 turns out from fully seated. For your elevation, intake and exhaust mods, you want to try to size your pilot jet so that your fuel screw setting, when you have it adjusted for best off idle throttle response and power, is around 2 turns out, ideally.
Hi Mate, I have bought an 04 xr400r for the first time.I do not know much about the bikes 😕 A few days ago before l started the bike,l turned the idle screw and started it. But now I don't know where the idle screw should be 😞I just want to turn i back where it was. Can you please help?
When you say "idle" screw, I take it you mean the black knob. It is not uncommon to need to turn that idle adjust screw Clockwise 1/2 turn to raise the idle speed a little for better starting, then turning it back after it's warmed up. It just depends on how low of an idle you prefer to run when the bike is warmed up. Running a super low idle is not ideal. Use the choke lever on full (lever all the way up) for starting a cold engine. The technique that works the best on the XR is full choke, bring the engine to Top Dead Center (TDC) with the kicker, leave the throttle closed and give it a good hard kick. Every starting kick should be made from the TDC piston position of the engine. If you don't, you're basically wasting your effort. There's a brass screw on the front side of the carb float bowl that points down. That is the fuel mixture screw for the idle circuit. You DO NOT use that for an idle speed adjust. I suggest you join the www.thumpertalk.com/forums/ Me and a whole lot of other XR folks with tons of knowledge on the XRs can help you over there better, with anything you need. I can even give you a link to a free downloadable shop manual to help you work on the bike. This is not a good place to go into a lot of detail.
@@Trailryder42 Thank you very much for quick reply and for the information. I appreciate it very much. Kind regards..
Wow, you really know what you're talking about. I wish you were close so I could take my XR to your care. Thank you
Again, thank you. Watched Part 1 already - advise others to do the same!
Great info! Thanks, as I was about to zero in my take-down soon.
Thanks brother! Steps been sitting on the counter. Gonna tackle this here soon. I like this hack!
Fear is scared of him
I absolutely appreciate this hack... I had it installed in less than an hour including painting where I cut. (I used a cut off wheel on my angle grinder) After I installed it, My torque wrench was to big, so I just tightend the Piss out of it. I used a two foot long breaker bar on the 19mm bolts, Seems like it'll do the job just fine. Time will tell.
In the package of the lightbar relay and harness included?
Yes.
Love your work, just like everyone else, rebuild my carby, this video is a life saver!
Nice Video, Next stop for me Colorado. Thanks for Sharing your Video. 🙂
Epic views, much entripidation ! (I can't spell sory)
What a trek! Enjoyed the beautiful scenery and commentary throughout this stretch of the trail. Thank you for sharing your experience with us. Way to go! New sub here! 👍
Nice video. I need to load up the bike and head down there.
I need to get back out there too. This was taken before GoPro started making their cameras with built in auto stabilization. Had to use a gimbal if you wanted smooth video.
Is it bright or not so much?
On High it is very bright. The first time I used high I was pulling into a very dark campground, no stars, no moon and it lit up the whole place for 100 yards.
Just wanted to say thanks for your video! I live in Denver and I have an XR 400 r that I bought from somebody it’s in really great shape but it had an issue with the carb but after watching your video I figured out what it was and fixed it, somebody had-the hole by the needle covered they had the linkage turned the wrong way! Needless to say new subscriber here !
Glad to hear it. Yeah, that hole being covered is something you'd never figure out if you didn't know it was there, and even if you did, most people wouldn't give it second thought.
That’s what’s wrong with mine! Thank you! I still can’t get my barrel together though. Not sure if I need to readjust those two Alan wrench screws that help cradle and lock the barrel in though? Help! Thanks!
Fixed it. The tensioner was stuck out. Had to loosen it then tap it back in some. Must have been jammed. Thank you!!!
@@Cogzed Take a look at my part 2 video where I discovered that there's no washer under the tensioner bolt head from the factory. And the damage and wear that condition causes to the bolt hole in the stock.