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Hello RegiQ1 ! :) Thank you ! The extended spectral range from this camera is astonishing. It is great to observe the world in such manner. :)

​@@thenightvisionlabYes, you are right. It is a very amazing experience.😊

Thank you. As for any kind of low light cameras, you need a minimum amount of reflected light for detection and recognition purposes. For this camera, same rules: under star light conditions, no moon, it is usable ( depending on your optics of course. The fastest it is the better it is). For indoor, no lighting: if some background light would come from a door slit, some led used in domestic material, it would be sufficient for being usable. With a lens with a given f/#, this camera is far better than a gen 1 tube (same f/# lens) available in consumer market, but less performing than a cascade tube like the p8079hp (same f/# lens). In a nocturnal peri-urban area , this system is usable with a fast lens f/#=1 or less I would say for 75 % of situations without need of external ir/vis source. Hoping it can be helpful for you.

Indeed, at the end it is the endless goal to find the best ratio performances/price for this kind of items. Using a very fast lens stays also a good option to compensate at least partly the performance's difference between the RNE3 sensor and the Aurora Pro one. If you see other videos onmy channels, the RNE3 with a f/0.95 lens is not so distant, in terms of performances, from the Aurora Pro with its genuine f/1.4 lens.

@@thenightvisionlab I've got a Night eagle 2 and a bunch of lenses from an old project.... I think I'm gonna have to dig that stuff out and do some experimentation. Oh, and thanks for all the content. Much appreciated.

@@Rod_Knee , Thank you for our interest! My pleasure ! For your RNE2, it is a great contender indeed for DIY project. I had one in the past, and honestly, i think its sensitivity is at least equivalent to the one provided by the RNE3 use in this project. Please share with us, the time coming, your coming experiments with your camera on your channel ! Good luck. Cheers. :)

Thank you! :) for the noise, as i suggested to you in your own last video, try to play with the DNR (high level for instance) and AGC, and also i noticed that working in monochrome mode gives a less noisy image, in very low light condition. For night sky using, keep your GAMMA at 0.75 or 0.65, but not less, in order to maintain a decent contrast, especially if your sky is light polluted... Just some thought for food. Best regards.

@@thenightvisionlab Thank you Sir.

@@kkintra6001 , my pleasure... Hoping to see your next footages soon! :)

Hi, nothing "ready made" nor commercial... :D i was simply using a combination of PVC pipe and hot glue with the protective cover originally provided with the SiOnyx. Anything may be possible, depending on the content of your own junk box, and your own imagination and assembling capabilities. The only requirement is to have an eyepiece nozzle compatible with the eyepice holder of your telescope (1.25" or 2" or whatever it is)... Cheers.

@@thenightvisionlab wow seriously!! Im looking for thos for mounth

@@thenightvisionlab i did not have a protectif cover 🤨

@@juliepomerleau9387 ,OK, therefore you have to fit a piece of short PVC tube having an internal diameter slightly bigger than the outer diameter of the focusing ring of the SiOnyx. For matching them together, duct tape would be your best ally. the principle is to build a kind of "russian doll" structure allowing to couple the eyepiece holder of your scope to your camera.

Hi, unfortunately the RNE3 currently used in my system does not provide integration frame. IOTA was in the past selling indeed a system with integration, based on a modified RNE2 pro. Now, they are also using a RNE3 but without integration (Runcam company did not want to produce a version with integration, i heard about that). perhaps on a second hand market (take a look on CN forum for instance) you may find something. Cheers.

@@thenightvisionlab Thank you for the info! Do you think the increased sensitivity of the RNE3 would be worth the loss of integration from the IOTA RNE2? This would be paired with an F/4 telescope and a 0.5x focal reducer.

@@AdmiralSym , i had the RNE2 (without integration) and now currently the RNE3. Sensitivity are quite comparable i would say. From that, i think the RNE2 (with integration: at least x2, x4) would be quite superior to the one provided by the RNE3 or RNE2. i had also in the past a WATEC120n+, and integrating only x2 was already a great improvement compared to the image provided by the WATEC120n+ without integration. With your project (scope with F/2 equivalent), a RNE2 (IOATA version: with integration) would be great.

@@thenightvisionlab Great thanks for the info. I’m very new to analog systems like these since I typically do cooled astrophotography. I’ve been looking for a potential lesser alternative to IIT NV and found these cams. I see RunCam also sells the Night Camera Prototype but it appears to be digital only. I don’t believe it’s possible to view the image unless connected to a computer. Too bad since it has a nice 1/1.8 sensor!

@@AdmiralSym , my pleasure. IIT are expensive, for sure, this is pity. But modern small analog camera like RNE or Caddx brand, and so on are more and more performing... And like you, despite i am used to play also with astro camera from ZWO like the 290MM, i appreciate more and more the simplicity and "ready to use" aspect of the analog cameras like RNE and equivalent... Perhaps try to investigate the model "infra" from Caddx. it still usable with a simple composite signal video viewer/screen (if i do not mistake myself), and it may comprise a kind of frame integration function.

Thank you RegiQ1, i appreciate your words! :) I did not think to check the radiant, but i think you right, Cassiopée and Persée were on the left corner out of the field of view of the camera. Big chance that their were "early" meteors belonging to the Perseid shower having its maximal usually expected around the 15th of august. Cheers while waiting your next videos! :)

@@thenightvisionlab As the meteor shower calendar says, it could be the Southern Delta Aquarids, which are observed annually from mid-July to mid-August; peak activity occurs on July 28 or 29. Well, the Persian meteor shower has also already begun🌌🥰👍🏻

@@RegiQ1 ,thank you for your lights on this 👍 ... i did not know this one! Indeed these successive meteor showers are more or less overlapping all over the year.

​@@thenightvisionlabI wish you success in your observations of meteor showers. It is very cool. If there is a clear sky and the opportunity to observe persians, shooting stars. It is very cool.👍🏻☺️🌌

Thank you RegiQ1! Observing Nature in the "nocturnal side" is always rewarding! Cheers! :)

​@@thenightvisionlabVery beautiful views😊

Thank you RegiQ1! :)

Hi dutchfly-61, indeed! :), best regards !

an All-Sky camera in such location would be a great tool for such kind of hunt!

Hi Matatisan ! Thank you for your input. I only know by name the Caddx brand. I will investigate it carefully for sure.

Hi again, matatisan, i just checked the Caddx Ratel 2 pro, for instance, which seems to be very promising, indeed. i am curious to see the difference, with an equivalent optics, with the Runcam Night Eagle 3. the Caddx will be included in my next project. Thanks again for this mention.

The infra model from Caddx is astonishing also, you right. But i do not see any OSD control pad for this model. does it exit a possibility to modify parameters (through the "AI" box) of the "infra" system, or is it all automatic and factory settled? Thanks for your light about that.

You can adjust latency, i think it is better to see in hard conditions with only clear sky and stars but 15 fps, or isn't able to see in hard conditions with 50fps. At least i do my own devices follow by this rule. Possibility usage it with only moonlight is useless.

Your welcome ! I haven't tried the caddex infra yet. But it looks promising :) ​@@thenightvisionlab

Thank you a lot, RegiQ1 ! :)

Merci Olivier. C'est vrai qu'un bon ciel, ça change tout.... Clairement pas la même chose que sous mon ciel batave ! Mais dans l'arrière pays de par chez toi, ça doit être excellent aussi ! :) Et puis, cette petite caméra, elle m'étonne toujours autant, niveau résultat! :)

Thank you RegiQ1. Indeed, they are!

Merci Olivier... TFDAK!!! y'a pas mal de lichens aussi sur les caillasses là bas, le rendu (mais tu le sais bien) est surprenant en mode NIR+Vis. avec cette caméra!

you too deltatwosix519. :)

Indeed, i had a NE2 in the past, and it seems to be somehow a bit more sensitive, But unfortunatly, it is a discontinued model currently. Nevertheless there is here a test made by someone who seems to show the opposite, but it is not for very dark situation, and the parameter adjustment is not mentioned : ruclips.net/video/rHIdO5phEV0/видео.html (see especially from 01min42s et 01min54s). I have to find one and to re-do more systematic comparisons with the NE3. Thank you for your comment.

Just some additional thoughts: this footage was made with a F/1.4 lens, which is not very fast for low light application. My memory with the NE2 pro indicates to me that i was using a F/0.9 lens, which is far more fast (more than 2.4 times more "luminous" than the F/1.4 currently used). For performing proper comparison, lens parameters should be equivalent and well defined. Another parameter i did not used for the current video is the parameter Gamma, which is here fixed to 0.75. By lowering it (the NE3 can go to 0.45) you can increase the luminosity, a bit like "stretching" the image histogram, of the darker areas, but at the cost of some contrast loss.... I will do additional comparison by acting on this parameter Gamma.

My pleasure, RegiQ1. :) Thank you for your support.

Merci Olivier. Je savais que cela te parlerait! ;) Y'a une flopée d'autres essais qui devraient suivre, si la météo le veut bien! :) à+ mon pote.

Hi RegiQ1, you are absolutely right. Indeed the Aurora Pro prevails clearly! 👍The other DIY monocular becomes interesting as soon as it is used with a very fast lens (F/D < 1 typically). Thank you for your feedback.

​@@thenightvisionlabThis is very good if you know how to assemble a night vision device with your own hands 👍🏻It's very cool 😉👍🏻🖖🏻

Yes indeed. the PVS69 is astonishing, the conceptor from that made an awesome work, great inspiration for sure ! For the Viewfinder, some links here for instance : www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p4432023.m570.l1313&_nkw=OLED+display+night+vision+800x600&_sacat=0 or also here www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Micro-Display-fpv-monocular-module-video_1600235057048.html . It exists a 0.5" screen version, giving a bit larger and more immersive view, but more expensive. One day, why not, replacing my current V770 viewfinder by this one. www.ebay.com/itm/354663612679?itmmeta=01HZFE9ZTCJR5R1Q9839PAK38B&hash=item5293994107:g:tkcAAOSwWYRkGWUr&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAABAFHPMjaB2R8bPWAJjUg%2BftVvo%2FvjoZCA4duKJag%2Bv%2FCH1PGO4ePHbhqAvjqo%2Bc4xl5SWjaXVyaJuo83i0x%2F2o3tO3whW3kJ9H%2FfjEsBBRV2bdtpY67Lo2a%2B79n2DA2R3kzKmgRpVBRCKFgRRZnvUPHPE2oFcPG6Mt7UFsk3BCU4PNSr7Vopnj9ffLNO6PSuRBr9xmrEWVbmYt2h2QsCrbAidwORXmHIJ35VLId5GhjgfABdKG4gTh4PU0QBVkEgLcWJeOLtGOyqu%2BIngxv4i70UaGOowcK2UsRMeHAnfWtzPmq7O%2B9JOvl5JWBTCTt5pDmDRlfVHc2hE1heCk0Iucdg%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBMnv2n7vtj ... Hoping it can be useful somehaow. :)

@@thenightvisionlab thank you for your quick reply it was very useful!!!

Thank you RegiQ1! :)

Yes, you have to settle your camera without its original lens, for positioning your sensor directly in the focal plane of the primary mirror of your telescope. Remove the lens and settle the camera instead of the classical glass eyepiece in the focuser of your telescope. With adjusting the focuser you will be able to obtain a clear image. here is an exemple: ruclips.net/video/Ysg4_l0kvaQ/видео.html Good luck for your coming expermentations. :)

If you do not want or can not remove the genuine lens from your camera, an other configuration would be possible, but a bit more complicated and costly to implement, because requiring an additional thermal lens: the afocal configuration.... See this part of this discussion here: www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/the-diy-poor-man-long-range-lwir-spotter/msg4105234/#msg4105234

@@thenightvisionlabI have a bunch of thermal lenses of various focal lengths. That is what I have been trying to do. Putting a thermal lens down in the focusing tube and then the camera a certain distance from the lens. I have.

@@thenightvisionlab I was trying to get similar results as shown in this video but he is very secretive about everything lol. ruclips.net/video/Rp8p5acddoE/видео.htmlsi=owC02m0VB6SeW-nC

Hi Chuvash_21, thank you fro your question. Unfortunately not... :D On principle, with a larger scope (faster F/# optics) with an optimized reflective coating for LWIR, AND a far more sensitive camera being cooled, with a super low NETD, AND being located in high altitude or better, in space, yes... :D :D :D The formal Spitzer space telescope and somehow the current Webb one would allow to respond to your request! With an amateur material like mine, the Moon would be the main reachable target. Again, not because of a difference in principle with the above mentioned telescope, but because of the general abyssal gap of performance level existing between them and my system. Here are some other examples obtained by hobbyists: www.cloudynights.com/topic/843050-thermal-imaging-with-a-telescope/ www.eevblog.com/forum/thermal-imaging/thermal-astrophotography/ . Good luck in your investigations.

Thank you for your feedback, rocheuro. I am also curious about the Night Eagle 3 also! My next project will turn around this one, for sure. Regards.

@@thenightvisionlab Perfect !👍

Happy to see, GaryMcKinnonUFO, that my work is somehow helpeful. Thank you for your feedback. with your 3D printer and your camera coupled to the P8079HP, you will have a fantastic setup. Do not hesitate to share here (link, in your channel, whatever...) your resulting assembly and first lights! I am very curious about it. You're right, there is currently not a lot of new stuffs about DIY projects with the venerable but mighty P8079HP... Good luck!

:)@@thenightvisionlab

Hello, yes of course. The thermal core delivers a very classical analogical video composite signal. You can feed any kind of cheap LCD display used for video monitoring, rear camera for cars, whatever able to accept analog video composite signal. Cheers.

@@thenightvisionlab I have this rifle scope attachment that uses a infared camera and nylon compression Fittings. Attaches to the back of the scope. The camera can slide out by one Philips screw. It would be pretty neat to make a thermal setup using the existing attachments for the scope. I believe the ID of the tube is around 2 to 2 1/2 inches the camera would slide into.. The whole system comes with a LCD screen and runs off of 2 18650 batteries. Infared vision is pretty good for picking up the glare of animals eyes. But thermal would pick it up the entire animal if the eyes are hidden behind a bush. I have been wanting a thermal scope but love the lcd screen on this infared, less eye strain .

Hi! markoeberhardt3132. Thank you for your interest. Do not hesitate to put your questions here. Cheers.

@@thenightvisionlab Well I think this is awesome, what I’m wondering is if this is possible in a rifle scope?? The issues with this in a rifle scope would be the fact that the tube is just so much smaller. Then I wonder if it would have proper resistance to the recoil vibrations and dings and drops

@@markoeberhardt3132 , hi, for your question i copy and paste a reply i did already for someone else, here: "If you manage to design a proper suitable frame, why not, but this specific project was thought just to be a simple spotter handheld or on tripod. You could use this core for sure, just to design around a true proper casing (3D printing, machining...). Be aware about the recoil concern, indeed: it is not forgiving for optics, generally speaking. Take a look on the forum nightvisionforumuk.com (you have to be registered)... Plenty of knowledge for this specific thermal application. " In addition, i guess that the thermal core by itself is more resistant than a NV tube, thanks to its "solid state" nature: in thermal cores, the "modern" sensors (micro bolometer, Si alpha,...." is "FPA" type) have no bulky ceramic/glass vacuum volume, with quite fragile micro channel plate therein, like NV tube..... Just a concern would be the mechanical shutter usually periodically used with microbolometer sensor. This shutter is quite fragile. you would have to check if it would stand indeed the recoil.... If you want to design your own rifle thermal scope, perhaps a Si alpha type sensor would be a better contender (?) because not requiring any mechanical shutter. Good luck! :)

@@thenightvisionlab not gonna lie I don’t know anything about those sensors, but I’ll try to jump into that forum and do some googles.

Thank you, UFOWorldwide ! :)

Hello UFO_File. I use also a DIY gen 3 device, made fro a old tube (from Litton). You can find videos on my channel too. Here, when using the 50mm/0.7 lens in combination with the large 25 mm photocathode diameter from the P8079HP, it gives a large fov quite convenient for this practice.

Hi @mhafemann, thank you for your reply! indeed, there is no one single evening or night without noticing such kind of activity up there! It is always fascinating, even knowing that majority of them are known satellites... But who knows, all of them ??? :D ;) ... Best regards !

Thank you @UV-NIR-Thermal for your feedback. Did you test Opsin with 7.5 fps ? otherwise the Aurora Pro stays a very good performer for sure. Regards.

@@thenightvisionlab Unless there's a firmware update for the opsin, it just has 30,60,and 90fps options. I still love my Opsin, got it mounted on a bump helmet and have been playing with it for a week, and the battery hasn't lost a bar yet. The video output and the jpegs just are crap. I need to denoise and sharpen the videos to make them look good. Here's an unedited video, it's a bit better live ruclips.net/video/gID2dQNRQRc/видео.html&ab_channel=metalmoss and here's a denoised one, I think the glitches are from the batch denoiser I ran it through ruclips.net/video/Ce2D7l_pCco/видео.html&ab_channel=metalmoss It was a full moon that night, it was right in front of me, so not a great test.

Essential explanation are disclosed in the description: read it. Said description also contains a reference to a previous link for additional infos. No need for sound, it does not bring further information nor improve the SNR for this video. My videos are not meant for entertainment, just to be seen as a simple "log book", crude and containing the basic infos for my further own experiences and learning process, hoping it can be also somehow useful here and there for the community. Questions and discussion are always welcome.

Thank you @pauntum for your interest. could you give me the forum's link? Generally speaking, i try to give as much as details i can. from this link, i will try for you to give more infos or footage.... Just give me the thread from this forum. Thx... ;)

​@@thenightvisionlabunfortunately I can't sent a link because youtube deletes it immediately but it was on "cloudynights" named "Do Gen 1 NV Devices do Anything?" Were I believe it was you that responded under the name "Lambda" ?

@@pauntum , exact @pauntum. Ok, i just took a look on it. Did you also followed the mentioned link, in this thread, leading to the forum EEV? There are some photos also... What is your gen 1 unit?

​@@thenightvisionlabyes I have, is it really just two extra components that you used? A 9V+LM31 7 and an Oscillator + Voltage multiplier?

@@pauntum ,absolutely! the oscillator and its voltage multiplier are already originally in the system. I just replaced the genuine DC power supply (2 AA battery in serial = 3V, if i remember well) by the 9V battery + the LM317 regulator. I was cranking up the output voltage to something around 5 V (abovr, my tube was arcing). This trick was here working because the oscillator was very crude and directly fed by the 3V AA batteries, without any kind of regulation. In a such simple configuration, when you increase the feeding voltage of an oscillator (Hartley, Colpitts, Armstrong, whatever---) you will increase the amplitude of the output oscillation, and this increasing will be multiplied by the following voltage multiplier -> more electron acceleration = more resulting gain. Of course you will also alterate a bit the oscillation form and the frequency, but it is not important here, the voltage multiplier will anyway rectify and provide the required HV DC supply.

Hi Linda, thank you for your feedback ! Do you have some references or links related to your design? I would be very curious to see that! In advance thank you for your teaching. Best regards.

Thank you Andreas, my pleasure... Ok, i will do a test on minerals, silice grain (sand) or salt for instance ASAP..... But the DOF is very thin, so focusing will be "touchy"... :D . Righ now i received slides and coverglasses, i will do videos with liquid sample. Mineral will come soon ;) Best regards!

Thank you Regi Q1! The microscopic world is as much as interesting than the astronomical one ! When sky is cloudy, it is a good way to be nicely busy! :D Best regards! :)

@@thenightvisionlab 👍🏻💯☺️

Thank you Andreas for your kind words! I discovered again your channel, and your videos are really awesome. I will study them carefully for improving my owns! Great job!

Thank you Regi Q1. This exercice is very classical, nothing new here for sure, but it is always a real and simple pleasure to enjoy such kind of "promenade" in real time! :) Cheers!

​@@thenightvisionlabThe moon is very mysterious, I like to see the moon☺️👍🏻🔭

Thank you Regi Q1. :)

@@thenightvisionlab Thank you for sharing your experience 👍🏻🥰

@@RegiQ1 , my pleasure. If it can be somehow useful, this is the most important!

@@thenightvisionlab 👍🏻

The EV=+2.0 in this last case was required, it allows to stretch the histogram in order to render the image brighter, but with a trade on the contrast. If i would have adjusted the EV parameter at +0.3, like for the left one, it would have been even more darker, without almost any visible signal. For this last session, the point is simply that the f/# of the equivalent system is to high: with the eyepiece 40mm, (supposing that all of the exit and entrance pupils are matched), f/#= 3 roughly. With the eyepiece 24mm, (supposing that all of the exit and entrance pupils are matched), f/#=5 (roughly). Shortly said, it works, but using a 24 mm eyepiece or shorter focal length would render the system more suitable for brighter target, planet, moon... Because again of the too "slow" (high value) of the f/#.

Thanks for the explanation @@thenightvisionlab

@@petrsulc5455 , my pleasure. Good luck for your own experiences, and please share them with us at the occasion! :)