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Awesome video and great job

Իմ մեքենան տիպտրոնիկ չի փոխում երբ տանում եմ М ի վրա ելի D աշխատում` ինչ անեմ

Great job! Very helpful!

The worst job on a jeep wj

Thank you so much! You really helped! 🎉

The video that actually showed it being done thank you I bought a new and the fuse is still blowing

Good job

The GreenWorks combo of trimmer and blower is idenuical to Kort from Lowes... (was from Amazon) with a 40v lithium battery pack. It is plenty for me since the blower is seldom used in spring/summer and the trimmer is nearly never used to blow fallen leaves! Do not assume you will use the trimmer and blower at the same time... You may not! And charging the battery pack may not be a problem either, so do not assume you will need a second battery pack. You may not at all! If HART is the Wal-Mart brand, then any problem may be covered with a refund or replacement. Wal-Mart is solid and huge like Lowes is with Kort tools... (Identical to Amazon's Green Works brand of blower and trimmers).

trick is after tightening,, rase the jeep take the driver side tire off you can torque as well as see the castell nut cotter pin clearly,,

thanks👍

4:30 you need a towel or soft diaper or something to lay those things face side down if the headlight lens doesn't have the amber color built in you will have to get amber colored bulbs to put in no grease for the ball studs/hard to keep the harness wires from getting in the way of the ball studs pushing into the springy things ? oh oh (21:35) you got a bulb out

Fat install it's to the left not the right. Thank you so much 😂

BRO YOU MADE THIS WAAAAY TO HARD ON YOURSELF ..MAYBE I CAN LEARN YA..and maybe spit out that gum and stop tryna look like a pro😅😂😂🎉

Got all 4 shocks removed and replaced in 25 minutes... I don't play around and did it on the ground ...so easy a caveman could do it lo,😅😅😅😂😂

I have a 2004 cherokee w/ 256,095 miles and just did my sway & end links in 35 minutes

Thanks for the instructions Tug! My main issue was finding the correct tap size, after watching your video now I know...👍🏻 thanks

Mama i can’t do it roight nowww im all jeeped up

Nice thank you budy!!!

how do you get the correct angle for each end at the desired measurement? and what is the spec to tighten to? can it be over tightened?

This was literally a noisey and annoying mess that is so poorly filmed and unedited, not mention the constant yammering and i interruptions of the offspring that the prosoect of learning anything,let alone your failure to show the actual taping, drilling, and instalation procedure by 20 minutes into this visualand auditory abortion means that you havve literally stolen 29 minites of my life. You jad yhe chance to teach the world how to install these fitrings and the ONLY part of this shitheap you did edit or cut out was the god dam installation! Brilliant. Absolute masterpiece.

The problem for me using my fog lights well first and foremost I replace the whole front bumper but the stock fog lights when you would turn them on with the turn signal indicator or lever the bright lights would go off. You can’t run bright lights and fog lights at the same time I want to be able to run bumper lights and my bright beams at the same time cause I’m out in the country a lot is there a way to hijack the wiring because my plugs are still in Place behind my bumper

You should build your walls on top of the subfloor.

It would be a great video if you could hold the fucken camera still!!!!!!!

I feel so much better about using this now that I’ve watched your video.

42:35 😂😂 Anyway, good video

After replacing my 2nd EGR valve on my 2011 JK (3.8 Automatic), I want to share a few tips that I learned the hard way. This job is a pain as it is very hard to access the EGR valve. The key to making this job easier (or even possible) is to have the right tools and follow a particular sequence. The following flexible locking head pass-thru wrench (GEARWRENCH 27 Pc. 1/4" Drive 6 Pt. Pass-Thru™ Mechanics Tool Set, Standard SAE/Metric - 891427) was a lifesaver the key to getting this job done correctly. If you use something else, you have a good chance of stripping the bolts and/or not being able to access a couple bolts at all. Note: they sell this ¼” drive wrench and 10mm socket separately for less $ but I bought the entire set. I HIGHLY recommend buying at least the flexible wrench and 10mm socket (the locking head mechanism and shallow body on this is a key to how it works so well in this application - also, only use 6 point sockets for this job to not strip the bolts.) The first time I replaced my EGR, I didn't have this and it took forever and I stripped a bolt. Worth every penny. www.amazon.com/dp/B000NIAKJU?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1 Use a good worklight for this job. 1) From on top of the engine, remove (2) 8mm bolts holding the rigid silver tube that connects down to the side of the EGR. You will also use a 12mm socket to remove the bracket holding 2 rigid black plastic tubes (next to trans dipstick) and pop those tubes out of bracket (set bracket aside). Now remove 12mm bolt (under the bracket you just removed) holding he silver EGR tube down to valve cover. 2) Jack car up & remove front passenger side wheel. Use jack stands for safety as you will be reaching in through the passenger side wheel-well to do most of the work. 3) Using a trim removal tool, remove trim push nuts holding passenger side inner wheel well plastic cover and remove the wheel-well and gain access to the EGR. You can leave the plastic fender in place for this job. You should have new trim push barbs on hand as you will probably break these taking them out. They sell a pack of them on Amazon. 4) From wheel-well side, remove the (2) 8mm bolts holding the silver tube elbow to the EGR valve & lift tube out of vehicle from top of the engine side. 5) Trace the 3 spark plug wires from the passenger side of the engine over to where they plug in to the distributor block on the driver side of engine. Mark the three wires (1, 2, 3) with a sharpie or tape so you know where to replace them after you are done. Unplug the 3 spark plug wires from the distributor on driver side & pull though to passenger side of engine folding out of the way exposing the top of the EGR valve. (note how the wires are routed as it is sort of a pain to push them back through under all the tubes and wires when you want to reconnect them - you don't need to unplug from spark plugs and you can keep wires in the plastic bracket). 6) You can now see the top of the EGR valve and the wiring connector you will need to disconnect. Use a screwdriver or pick tool to push the red tab on connector toward the firewall of car. Then use a long screwdriver to push down on the black tab/middle back top of connector while pushing connector with a long needle nose pliers (or screwdriver) toward drivers side to release connector (note: you will not be able to remove the connector all the way yet because there is a stud bolt sticking up from the engine preventing the connector from sliding all the way off - as long as you release the connector and slide it a bit off you are good for now… taking it completely off occurs later). 7) From inside wheel-well, you will now use a 10mm socket to remove the lower bolt from the EGR valve. (Note: use only 6 point sockets and make sure they are seated correctly before trying to break these EGR bolts loose, you DO NOT WANT TO STRIP THESE BOLTS - make sure you are using 10MM and they are kept seated well on the bolt before using even pressure to break the bolts free - lefty looseny). 8) When the lower EGR bolt is removed. You will now take your hand and push the top of the EGR valve away from you to break free the hidden 2nd EGR bolt. Be careful to not get your fingers caught between the EGR and the trans dipstick tube. (you can also stick a rod/screwdriver into the hole on side of EGR for leverage but hand pressure worked for me). 9) With the EGR now moving, you can now angle the connector upward and detach the wire connector from the top side (much easier than doing from underneath). 10) You now NEED to get the dipstick tube moved toward the driver side slightly to be able to access the hidden EGR bolt. Some dipstick tubes are attached by a lower bracket which is in a real tight spot to remove. Near the EGR valve at firewall, you can see/feel a bracket with a 10mm bolt. You will need to access the bolt head from the firewall side (there are some rubber tubes at the firewall that get in the way but you can work around them). Using the 1/4" drive 10mm pass-thru wrench (linked above) saved me on this job. I locked the wrench head for a slight back-angle and using the 10mm socket and feeling with two hands was able to loosen the bracket bolt - be patient. One bracket bolt was disconnected, from the top side I used a strong bungee around the top of dipstick tube and pulled as far as I could toward drivers’ side and attached it to something. My hood was fully flipped back this whole time. This moved the dipstick tube a couple inches toward driver side and now allowed access to the final EGR bolt using the special pass-thru socket (linked above). 11) From the wheel-well, you can now use the 10mm pass-thru flexible head socket to access the final EGR bolt. You will need to remove the bolt by hand once it gets loose enough. 12) Reverse the procedure to install the new EGR using anti-seize on the bolt threads. Don't forget the gaskets. Don’t over-tighten bolts as you could break them off - just very snug. Hope this helps. Good luck.

If my third brake light on the gate is working could it still be the switch

Any idea what might cause an 04 grand cherokee brake light on the top middle to work but the larger 2 to not work?

I just bought a 2024 cub cadet xt1 lt50 with the fabricated deck and i love it

Thanks for the video. My bracket broke and what a pain it is to replace. I'm just going to use baling wire.

I have a 2004 jeep grand cherokee special edition 4.0 with 93000 and owned since new. It has a annoying clunking sound when you hit minor imperfections in the road. Ive already changed the end links. Ive checked front end suspension its good. It has had replacement shocks already. Its driving me crazy. My street i live on is where it makes the noise.

Thank you for the video, I just did this on my 2000. For the one at the Pitman arm, I turned the wheels so that it was just poking into the wheel well. Replacement was easier than I expected and I didn't have to work from underneath. I torqued it with a crowfoot extension on the torque wrench. When doing that, you need to adjust the torque wrench to compensate for the length of the extension. There are online calculators to determine the correct torque setting. Before removing the ends, I measure from the end of the drag link to the grease nipple. Installed the new ones to match those measurements. It's a good idea to grease the new ones with a grease gun - don't know how much grease is in there from the factory. I also did the tie rod ends and the steering stabilizer at the same time while I was in there. By the way, I also used Moog. It's a name that I trust. Last step is an alignment. If you only do the drag link ends then an alignment is not needed. I hope your daughter is doing wonderfully.

Did you not get a new O ring with the filter as that must be replaced with each filter change.

I took the tube out first. Made the job so much easier. I tackled the electrical connector from the top. Slid right off. Because i have an auto trans i attached a couple of heavy duty plastic ties to the trans dip stick tube and used a ratchet strap to ratchet the dip stick away to give me more room at the back of the valve. I did have a problem lining the tube back up but that was my fault. All in all a good job and it took about 1 1/2 hrs. Thats including the Wheel back on,torqued up and fender guard on. Thank you for your video.

If you want bushings and tie rod boots to last then put a moderate layer of silicone on them the day before the install. Obviously it's a protective coat that will double the lifetime of the part

Mine has the tranny dipstick tube in the way there’s no room.

good job man... Im doing the same in my cherokee ......

No torque wrench...

Death wobble

Same! Where is part 2??

I don't see a part 2 and this is my exact problem right now 😂

May God heal her in Jesus name Amen

Thanks for the video. I made the job a bit easier by purchasing a reversible ratcheting 21mm wrench to get the three axle housing bolts out. I didn't need to take apart anything other than the control arms. Jacked up the Jeep and put jack stands on each channel/rail to hold the body up. Left the wheels on sitting on the ground. Royal PITA but slow and steady wins the race.

Hello Friend! Great video! I'm new to all that mech stuff so I've got a question for you: What brand of Anti-Seize Lubricant do you use on those tie rod ends? Is that Permatex? Is that a copper or a nickel one you use? Would appreciate your answer!

You need a bigger hammer dude lol

I wish you the best your knowledge is awesome, you have no idea how much it help me !!!!,🔴🫢🤫

You could have gotten an impact wrench on the top of the tool and that whole job would have been easier had you put the front axle in full droop.

Was there any smell or offgassing with this?

Took me an hour to get the pan off, and that was with the engine on a stand and upside down! I'd hate to do it in place.

Good video. Shows that everything is not as easy as some make it appear. Three things. 1. Nut Splitter. Using a nut splitter can have both nuts off quicker than wrenching one if you do not have room for an impact wrench. 2. Place a bottle jack under the bottom ball joints threaded part. Then raise the jack until the coil spring compresses about an inch. Smack the bracket with a hammer. 9 out of 10 times the ball joint will pop right out of the knuckle. 3. Remove the bottom ball joint first. Place the bolt on the "C clamp" down. You can then use an impact wrench on it. By placing the C clamps bolt pointed down on the to ball joint. An extension can be placed up through the bottom joints hole.