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Thank you for sharing that story about your grandpa and his awesome pre-64 model 70. Every time you take it out shooting, you will think of him, just as I think of my dad whenever I take out the Mossberg 640K and the Ithaca 37 that he handed down to me, ditto for the Marlin 39A that he gave me for my 16th birthday.

The Tikka and Sako rifles are rightly praised for their quality, but there really is something to be said for the large claw extractor. Early in my reloading, I had a lot of .30-06 ammo that turned out to be over-pressure once I shot some of it in 90+ degree temperatures. I had a flattened primer, then a cratered primer, then a blown primer. It was at that point that I stopped shooting, then tore down that set of reloads to redo with prudently lower powder charges. I was able to extract all three over-pressure fired cases with some difficulty, but I suspect that I would have either failed to extract or sheered off the little extractor common with the likes of the Remington 700, the Savage 110, or a Tikka/Sako.

That was exactly the major reason that I went with the M77RS instead of the M77R.

Yes sir

Powder charge? It's 25.0 grains of H110. After this video, I found on Hodgdon's site bullet-specific data for the same 225 grain Hornady FTX that was in this video that indicated a maximum charge in strong guns of 27.2 grains, and my chronograph showed that those loads move out at an average 1820 FPS. I took my first ever deer with the 25.0 grain load and my second two with the 27.2 grain load in 2012. All three were one shot stops, with the first one literally falling in her tracks without taking so much as one step after impact. Critical information, but if you or a friend intends to reload .45 Colt, do *NOT* use this load data in anything other than one of the stronger handguns or rifles. For handguns, the following are acceptable for loads of this category, assuming that the condition of the specific handgun is undamaged and in otherwise sound condition: Ruger Blackhawk, Thompson/Center Contender, Freedom Arms model 83, Colt Anaconda, and Ruger Redhawk There are other pistols, i.e. break-action or bolt action that should also be safe, but I won't begin to try sort those out because they're more obscure, such as one offered by Rossi. As far as I know, there are no other revolvers considered up to the separate category of very stout loads that I often load. Some of the handguns considered *UNSAFE* for these loads are: Ruger Vaquero, Colt New Service, Smith & Wesson model 25, Taurus Judge, Smith & Wesson Governor If you're wanting to shoot loads of this category in rifles, again as long as the rifle is in sound condition, you're good to go with the following: Marlin 1894, Winchester 1892, Winchester 1894, Rossi R92 (clone of Winchester 1892) I know there are others not considered acceptable, but the only two rifles I can name off the top of my head considered unacceptable due to lack of action strength for these stouter loads are the Winchester 1873 (and all modern clones) and Rossi Circuit Judge. Henry Repeating Arms is a special case, with all but one model of their lever action rifles considered safe with these stout loads, with the one exception dubbed the "New Henry Original Rifle," which is a modern version of the famous Henry 1860 lever action rifle (yes, the one that the Confederates called "That damn Yahkee rifle that they load on Sunday and shoot all week") that has the same action strength shortcomings that the original model 1860 had. It goes without saying that all other clones (there are many) of the Henry 1860 are considered unsafe for these loads. Also, don't be tempted to fire loads of this sort in the modern centerfire (the originals were all rimfire) incarnation of the Winchester 1866 in the unlikely event that you have one.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns I appreciate your feedback, I would intend to use the higher loads in my Henry big boy X. Just reached out to Henry for all the information I need to make sure I don’t mess anything up, as well looking into others work.

@@carsonmckee3641 As long as your Big Boy is in good condition, you're all set. Just work up your loads in increments to ensure that your specific gun is up to the task and look hard for the telltale pressure signs, namely flattened, cratered, or blown primers. I also highly recommend Starline brass for the stouter loads. I favor CCI 350 large pistol magnum primers, but you should be okay with Remington, Winchester, Federal, or some of the others, just as long as you ensure that you're using magnum primers, as H110 and its relabeled identical powder Winchester W296 both are harder to ignite and need the extra spark. One more very important thing to heed about H110/W296: Do *NOT* be tempted to use anything below the listed starting load with any cartridge loaded as it's one of those powders that can cause pressures to skyrocket to dangerous levels with undercharges, with detonations a very real possibility. There are other powders with this interesting characteristic, but it's the only one I've ever seen firsthand evidence of having a **KABOOM** from a photo that a gun store owner showed me of a Ruger Super Blackhawk .44 Magnum, with its top strap and cylinder totally wrecked. Fortunately, the shooter who had this happen was wearing shooting glasses that protected his eyes and he miraculously wound up with no injuries beyond a few brass fragments that peppered his face and hands, a testament to just how strong the Super Blackhawk is. It's probably the ultimate powder for getting the most out of the likes of .357 Magnum, .41 Magnum, .44 Magnum, .45 Colt, .454 Casull, 450 Smith & Wesson, and (yes) .500 Smith & Wesson. I've used this powder for over thirty years now,with excellent results. Of course, the nice thing about .45 Colt is that there are lots of choices of powder depending on what you like, from very mild loads that even a petite woman or child could enjoy shooting all the way up to real hammers using a max charge of H110 behind a 300 grain Speer softpoint that will really grab your attention with each trigger pull.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns appreciate the info🇺🇸

@@carsonmckee3641 You're very welcome. Sorry for being so verbose, but when it comes to reloading, especially when you're working up loads at the upper end of the scale, I'm super cautious about it that I want to hand off what I've learned over the years to others. Good luck, and that Henry should serve you very well, especially if you want to hunt deer out to about 100 yards.

Thanks for recounting your own experiences with this feisty little bird. The only real negative thing about wrens is that they are known for occasionally piercing other birds' eggs. I didn't see any evidence of that (admittedly, hard to see from ground level), so I would just chalk it up to the price of allowing a native species to flourish. At least this isn't the despicable starling that causes so much damage to native bird species, especially to martins and woodpeckers.

I figured it out. My primer seater wasn't firmly mounted, causing it to tilt slightly and putting the primer off center on the up stroke. I switched to the standard seater since this.

Sorry about the poor quality video. I had a crappy SD camera, poor lighting, and I didn't even get what I was doing in frame. As said, I went back to the older bench-mounted RCBS priming tool, and I immediately have to say that I should have just gone to that from the beginning. It works flawlessly, 100% reliable, even providing the proper 0.003"-0.005" below flush seating depth each time. I really wanted to like the APS bench tool, but having to use the strip loading tool and dealing with a very finicky feeding mechanism that seemed to bind in the strip at the drop of a hat led me sadly away from it. RCBS discontinued the APS tool, and probably because of others having the same experience that I had with it.

Lucky dog!

Thanks!

I love hearing that you had one, but I'm sad that you ever had to sell it. I still have this one, and I carry it daily. It has been my only CCW ever since I bought it brand new in 1990. I recently obtained a new S&W M&P 10mm for a higher capacity alternative, but the mighty stainless gun will remain my primary carry sidearm. thanks for the reply.

I'll let you know how the Chicago screws are inserted once I get back home and can look directly at my sling to tell you. Stay tuned.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns Awesome, thank you!

@@charleschristianson2730 UPDATE: I realized that it would be too frustrating for you giving you an explanation over the text medium, so I'll be making a new video, this time with a much better camera in better lighting showing exactly where and how the Chicago screws go and how the whole thing attaches. I'll reply with a direct link to the new video once I upload. Sorry for the delay, but I think you deserve better than my first effort showed.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns Thank you very much!

@@charleschristianson2730 Okay, good news! I just uploaded a new video, this time in considerably higher resolution (4K) , with a close view of exactly how the Chicago screws are placed and exactly how to thread the sling through the leather keepers and through the sling swivels. I hope that my attempt to make this more understandable works, and here is the direct link to it: ruclips.net/video/ET5rHyUFqhc/видео.html Enjoy!

What?

You're one lucky dog to have the little beauty. I bet it shoots very well. Mine manages MOA with two of my reloads, one topped with the Sierra 180 grain spitzer Pro-Hunter and the other with the 165 grain Barnes TTSX. I took a buck with the TTSX load five years ago, and on November 21 I took a doe and button buck with the same load, only seconds apart from each other. I wouldn't fret about not having gotten one in .243. .243 is an excellent caliber, but .30-06 is arguably the most versatile caliber of them all.

heh FWIW, I used these very loads to take three deer.

Prego!

You're welcome, and thanks for the nice words.

You bet it is, especially for one with a long action.

FWIW, this video was a case of user error. As it turns out, the problem was that I had a less than perfect way to mount the priming tool to the bench that didn't keep it rigidly in place, which allowed it to flex upward with each lever cycle and caused the primers to slide out of place, causing lots of problems. I have since upgraded to the Inline Fabrication quick change ultramount and used this same tool on that. The Ultramount rigidly mounts the priming tool and the issues that I had in this video disappeared completely that way. I only yesterday used this same tool so mounted to prime 50 .38 Special cases in less than five minutes. I'll see about recording another round of that with another batch of cases to prove it and upload to RUclips again, so I'll see about providing the link to the upload once I get it done. RCBS has now discontinued this tool, but I love it, especially because it seats all primers to the same depth via an adjustable stop screw. The other nice thing about this tool is, unlike all other priming tools out there, it doesn't rely on gravity at all, instead using a mechanical system to index the primers into position for the priming ram to seat them. It also has the primers separated from each other in an individual cell that makes accidental detonation confined to only one primer, something that has never happened to me , but it's nice to have a much bigger margin of safety than if your hand prime had its entire tray full of primers get set off by a detonation.

FWIW, it's a rarity for a long action cartridge to get sub-MOA without building a custom rifle and with a particularly good shooter. I think my groups are entirely satisfactory, especially given my average to slightly above average shooting ability. Also, I was very light in the application of glass, and I was able to fully tighten the receiver screw after it was finished.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns It wasRuger's advice on the receiver screw, 90 inch-lbs. My .270 shoots in the same hole on a good day with my load. My .243 started out with 1.5" groups and I worked on loads before I found out about the screw. I now goes .365"group.

@@mbw65 Good job on that. For what it's worth, I've been reloading for the last thirty years now, but the loads that I managed 1 MOA with were some of the first that I ever assembled, all with nothing but books to go on to teach myself how to roll out my first rounds. I hadn't yet employed seating the bullets to match the leade of the rifling at that time, as I now do. I say that because I have a feeling that I could improve on my groups with the those reloads using that common practice and neck sizing only, but I haven't really pushed to see. It's probable that someone using some of the more advanced techniques (neck turning, sorting brass by lot and weight, primer pocket uniforming, and on and on) could shrink those groups a bit, especially with a very good shooter. I'm entirely satisfied with what I'm getting now, but I love hearing from someone who really knows his stuff and gets such excellent results from not just a .243 (not very surprising, as that caliber is practically made for accuracy), but with a .270. btw...I'll be taking this Ruger into the woods again come November 13. Stay cool.

@@mbw65 btw...I'm pinning your comment because it's really interesting.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns thanks for your comment. I started reloading for .270 in 1968 with a Rem 700 and replaced it with the M77 in 1975. Bullets really make a difference. My best groups now are with Barnes TSX.

Thank you! I 100% agree. Nothing else even begins to compare to it. Definitely worth every penny. I'm still carrying it daily in this holster.

Sorry it wasn't very well recorded.

Lucky dog! Don't ever let that little jewel escape your grasp. That's an heirloom quality rifle if ever there were one.

I've never had that happen, but my first suggestion would be for you to carefully field strip it again, then thoroughly clean and lightly lube all parts, especially around the decocker/safety, scrutinizing it for any debris in the bearing surfaces. If everything looks okay, then carefully reassemble, then check it again. Good luck.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns I did exactly that the first time and just did a basic cleaning. It’s still happening after multiple times of field stripping and reassembling. No idea what’s happened.

@@spencer6104 Hmmm...as long as you're the original owner, contact Smith & Wesson for them to correct your issue. It has a lifetime warranty for the original owner. Yes, I had to resort to warranty service (twice) with mine when I originally purchased it clear back in 1990 because there were burrs causing failures to fire. If you're not the original owner, the only other two recommendations I can make are for you to field strip it again, this time, carefull seeing if you can rotate the safety/decocker while apart from the receiver, then see if something might be obstructing its rotation. If that doesn't work and you're not the original owner, find a decent local gunsmith and see if he can take care of your issue. It sounds minor, so I can't see it taking very long to correct or costing very much. Just see about getting an estimate first should you go that route. Please let me know what you wind up doing and how it works out for you. I have an interest in one of the "brotherhood" being able to use his 1006 with confidence.😀

@@spencer6104 I'm pinning you, just to ensure that your comment is easily located in the future.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns thanks for pinning, I inherited this gun, it was originally owned by a police department and I am quite upset that on my first time field stripping it, literally one of easiest things, is something I have already messed up. I have the safety out of the gun, cleaned everything and lubricated it, and I need some guidance on reinstalling. It won’t go all the way to the other side of the slide.

Thanks again!

Hey, thanks!

Way to go, brother! If I had a way to do it, I'd send you a box of my reloads just so that you could get a little initial range time with that little jewel. You're going to love it, especially once this ammo panic is over.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns thanks buddy I keep saying I'm going to the firing range just haven't been yet and thanks again saying you send me some reloads send me your number buddy

Uh, look at my followup video to this one. I realized my dumb mistake and remounted the priming tool solidly by using a second C-clamp, finding that the problems I had here disappeared when I did that. Yes, it was a mistake initially, but it was a mistake that I resolved. This was the only time that I had ever tried mounting any part of my reloading equipment on a board and C-clamping it instead of permanently mounting it to the bench. Don't be so insulting. Also, this bench is quite small, so there wouldn't be enough room but for one one person. LOL

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns I have my reloading presses mounted on a one inch thick aluminum plate. The plate is 6061 cast. I re machined the bottom side of the presses to insure flatness. I have an oak table converted from drafting to my reloading bench. It has an oak top. On top of that is going to be a one inch Baltic birch plywood top. Solid as a steam locomotive. Yes, I was quite pointed on my reply. But, when reloading......this is a serious dangerous hobby. I did point put the flaws in your set up for a reason. Your presentation was leading people to believe what you were doing was fine. Well, you know different. I am thinking of the guy or person who takes what he SEE’S as fact. You and I both need to present a safe process to promote reloading as a safe and sane hobby. That’s all. I love the smell of gun powder.....morning.....noon....and night. DONT you?

@@johnholmes4960 I wish that I could have a much broader setup for a bench, but I have had to make due with this old Homak table that I ordered from Midsouth Shooters Supply clear back in 1988, when I was still in the navy. It's not a question about laziness or money for the bench itself. It's about having very limited space to do this, since I have to be able to put the bench in the same one-car garage as our Jeep. Yes, I'd love to put down a big, rigid bench, but this is what I must do if I want to be able to reload without doing a major remodel. I have been able to safely load well up into the tens of thousands of rounds on this very table over the years, not bad for someone who has only ever owned the RCBS Rock Chucker.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns no disrespect intended. Thank you for your service. Live well and prosper.....🖖

@@johnholmes4960 No problem, and thanks for the nod. I never saw combat (Operation Desert Storm wound up before my ship's scheduled deployment to the Persian Gulf happened), but I somehow look back on my time there with a bit of nostalgia.

You're welcome. They're very brave little birds.

You won't get an argument out of me on that. I also learned not having both ends of the board caused the problems seen here with the primers getting misaligned with the through hole of the shell holder. Once I anchored it as you suggested, I had zero problems, and I could prime 100 cases in less than five minutes with ease. Thanks for putting it out there for others to read, though.

I also had to heart and pin your comment because of how useful it is.

I know what you mean. I looked a few years back, and they were commanding about $850 in decent condition back then. I'm just really glad that I bought mine when they were still in production. btw...this is my EDC sidearm. The Kramer horsehide IWB holster makes it easy to carry even this large gun comfortably and concealed. Hopefully, after this panic buying has had a chance to subside, you will finally find one within your budget. If you do, you'll love it. Good luck to you with your quest.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns thanks buddy I hope I find one if I get my hands on one I'm keeping it

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns I finally got me one off gun broker have not took it to the firing range yet but I'm going to soon

@@anthonywashington3743 Excellent! I hope you have enough magazines to go with it. S&W quit making complete mags several years back, so the only way to get new ones is to find someone charging around $100 for unopened ones, or (if you do what I did to get six more of them) buy the components (all of the individual parts were available if you know where to look) and make them up into complete mags that way. Nice score, especially considering the panic.

@@Gunners_Mate_Guns thanks buddy I go on gunbroker and find some

Hey, thanks!

Hang onto that bad boy! That's a stout caliber, but it's probably the best compromise to allow you to hunt all that walks on the North American continent and nearly all of what walks on the African and Asian continents.

Since the 4.x-14x40mm scope had a 30mm tube, yes, I had to buy new rings to mount it. You have excellent taste in rifles. ;)