Видео

@@whurnerheyns717 it connects to the bottom of the new regulator

@@alexiscastro5055 they paid me $500

@@TPGDSM damn, that’s more affordable than I thought it would be. I need to get mine replaced and I’ve been researching it.

@@MindBlowin03 yeah I heard. Lots of interesting stuff happening in the adk area these days

@@TheBeanManFR glad it helped ya!💪

My thoughts exactly

Thanks for the info. I’m replacing all the lines and will add that to the list 👍👍

@@eddyspaghetti90_ sorry was newer to editing. A couple years back we got into it and made some mistakes. Hopefully future content makes more sense for you. Appreciate the constructive criticism though.

​And I genuinely meant NO disrespect btw ​@@TPGDSM

They’re a pain to weld due to the oil soaking inside em. I’d be glad to though. Shoot me an email todaysprojectguide@gmail.com

87 12V PUMP SIDE 86 12V CHASSIS SIDE 30 BATTERY FEED 85 GROUND

@@TPGDSM thankyou I have had my walbro 255 for over 4 years in a box going to install and do the relay too

You can run whatever wideband is compatible with ecmlink

@@turbo4g639 worked out great with no issues. Go for it if you want to

@@Hater4life814 iirc the cable for positive side goes on the spot with the nut and cover, plug goes in and it’s all set

@@gsxdude the Max brand was fun for a cheap drop but mine died within a year or more. Loving the kyb set up. My buddy had a different brand drop spring he got off exptremepsi and my car rides smoother with Amazon lowering springs and kyb’s

@@fabianavila3755 agreed

Ecmlink gm maf breakout cable

Last I checked it was around $15 to ship internationally to Canada and Mexico. Not to terrible

@@louiscongionti2394 that’s one of The last two pieces arriving soon. Along with the 2 bolt 3in flange.

Glad you found it useful. I’ll keep uploading the project progress. Coming up next will be the welding fun and fab 💪

@@Shademax4273 sounds about right. I’ve seen it on brake rotors and other stuff. Shouldn’t be a problem to clean up for welding👍

@@ChrisSemel you can add some fluid to it once you install it on the car. Press the pedal in and attach a small vac hose to the feed side. Or pour a small amount of fluid in it. Not really a necessary step since you’ll be bleeding each corner after that. The air will work its way out during that process. I like to install everything and start from the passenger rear, crack the bleeder open and let it “gravity bleed” out the rears first. Then do the pump-hold-crack bleeder- tighten and repeat until all 4 are solid fluid with no air bubbles and the pedal feels stiff.

@@Shademax4273 it should. Just splice it in and let it work

@@MindBlowin03 it’s pretty straightforward. I have some nice switches, wiring included and some small instructions that come with. I’ll end up posting more once it’s finalized. I’ve been playing with this for a few weeks now. Works great. Just a pain getting to that switch under the pedal

@@TPGDSM agreed. That switch is a bear to get to. I don't miss messing with that at all.

Ecmlink v3 eprom ecu from a 1995 gsx gst or talon. Running speed density. Omni 3 bar map and gm iat sensor plugged into the Ecmlink maf breakout cable

@@TPGDSM :( I am using a blackbox ECU and programming with ECUFlash, and I want to switch to Speed Density, but I have no idea how to do it, hahaha.

@@Doneclikse with ecu flash and ceddymods im pretty positive you’ll need to cut the maf harness and add a soldered gm intake air temp sensor to the baro wires in that connector, then get a gm map sensor and solder that into the MDP sensor harness at the top of the intake manifold. Then you have to download and flash the ceddymods sd patch to the ecu. That will map out the ecu so it looks for the iat signal on the baro output from the maf harness and again, look for map signal from the mdp harness output. Some googling will definitely help out with this. Sorry I’m not able to specify further.

Thank you🙏

Thanks!. eBay actually. Less than $100 shipped

Hey there, I added the 4 white wrapped wires for the charging system to one lug with + power and the ground to fuse box and any other grounds to the other side. It’s an inline breaker or safety to kill power from any over voltages

@@TPGDSM So since it’s inline, did you just connect the new 4 gauge power wire on the opposite side of the fuse block from the factory power wires?

@@edmundstyson2755 yes. The battery wire from the trunk feeds upfront through the rubber boot on the passenger side firewall behind the fuse box, that thick red wire feeds into the right side of the breaker, and the lug on the left of it gets all of the alternator, starter wires and anything else i added in that needs power. I also put an inline fuse in the trunk about 12in from the positive post on the battery to fend off any chance of something melting and burning my car to the ground

@@edmundstyson2755 I also really like the breaker under the hood. You can use it as a secondary kill switch if you want the added layer of protection

@@TPGDSM Well I appreciate the help. The previous owner did some weird stuff with some of the wiring coming off of the fuse box so I’m trying to sort that out. Hopefully I figure it out so I can finish this trunk mount!

Awesome!. Hmu when you pass through I’m 15mins away

I’ve seen two in my town. One is a rotted out 1g and the second is a non turbo gs model. Few and far between these days. Thanks for watching 👍

Early cheaply done stuff. Fortunately for me I learned more and more and modified my previous mods to an old rusty quarter million plus mile car on the tightest budget and second hand pieces and parts to get it to work pretty well. Haggard 2G is better than one forgotten and crushed. Appreciate your observations and remember, everyone starts messing around somewhere. This could have been an old Acura, second gen Wrx, or even an old vw Gti. These old vids up to more current helped some folks and also have made some laugh. I’ll keep sharing regardless because at the end of the day I enjoy my old second gen.

Not sure tbh. Think they’re stock. They were ok for the first long run of miles. Only swapped em bc they were toast.

Mine barely pokes into the air stream. I think since it’s pressurized it shouldn’t matter. As long as air can get to it I’d bet you’ll be fine

I've got the same thing got an engineer at work to weld a bung on my intake pipe cause the one that came with sensor was alloy and pipe is steel. It barely pokes out I was worried but I'll see how I get on and report back

@@AstleTruscott thank you, please do!

Mine was inside the driver engine bay. Gsx n Gst got em in different places

It’s set to rpm, throttle position, and speed

Yeah, you can set it up however you want. If you add timing and fuel it gets way more aggressive. All about preference. I like mine set to a “calm” load point with these old stock internals