- Видео 33
- Просмотров 92 518
Markos Fraser
Канада
Добавлен 29 май 2012
Welcome to my RUclips channel, where I publish videos of my projects. For more content, check out my website at markosf.ca
A Better SEIG 7x14 Mini Lathe Spindle Upgrade | BLDC + ODrive
Please find more details about this mini lathe modification on my website: markosf.ca/portfolio
CAD files: grabcad.com/library/seig-mini-lathe-spindle-motor-upgrade-1
Firmware code: github.com/userFour/seig-lathe-spindle-upgrade
Project start: 2022-11-30
Project finished: 2023-09-27
Video uploaded: 2024-06-08
Resources: Solidworks, Shapeoko HDM, Da Vinci Resolve, Canon EOS70D
CAD files: grabcad.com/library/seig-mini-lathe-spindle-motor-upgrade-1
Firmware code: github.com/userFour/seig-lathe-spindle-upgrade
Project start: 2022-11-30
Project finished: 2023-09-27
Video uploaded: 2024-06-08
Resources: Solidworks, Shapeoko HDM, Da Vinci Resolve, Canon EOS70D
Просмотров: 4 102
Видео
Machining a Salomon Guardian Binding Replacement Part - Shapeoko HDM
Просмотров 22311 месяцев назад
I machined a replacement part for a Salomon Guardian backcountry ski binding using a Shapeoko HDM Machine Shapeoko HDM Material 6061 T6 Roughing Tool 1/4 CRB TiN 2FL Maximum roughing stepdown 1.5 mm Fine stepdown 0.5 mm Optimal load 2.54 mm Spindle speed 24000 RPM Chipload 0.05 mm Finishing Tool 1/8 CRB 2FL BM Stepover 0.3 mm Spindle speed 24000 RPM Chipload 0.025 mm Part finished: 2023-10-25 M...
Making a Sharpening Jig with the Shapeoko HDM
Просмотров 601Год назад
I used a Shapeoko HDM to turn a scrap of plywood into a sharpening jig for woodworking tools Cutting Parameters: 1/4" 3FL CRB Endmill 15000 rpm 3000 mm/min 0.1 mm chipload 3 mm DOC Jig finished: 2023-05-06 Resources: Solidworks, Shapeoko HDM, Da Vinci Resolve, Canon EOS70D Instagram: pCsfN63pr5X-/ Chapters: 00:00 Intro 00:10 Flattening the stones 01:03 Modelling 01:43 Machining 0...
MPCNC + A40640 Diode Laser - Basic Usage
Просмотров 5 тыс.Год назад
This video covers basic usage of the NEJE A40640 diode laser module with a stock MPCNC primo. Laser installation video: ruclips.net/video/y-JaIZPdbsE/видео.html NC Viewer: ncviewer.com/ Powerscale generator: www.o2creative.co.nz/laser/lightburn_basic_generator.php Health and safety warning: High powered lasers are dangerous. Laser cutting can be hazardous to your health. Always wear laser safet...
MPCNC + A40640 Diode Laser - Installation
Просмотров 3 тыс.Год назад
This video covers installation of the NEJE A40640 diode laser module on a stock MPCNC primo build. Basic usage video: ruclips.net/video/5xbppTtp_6o/видео.html Health and safety warning: High powered lasers are dangerous. Laser cutting can be hazardous to your health. Always wear laser safety goggles while operating laser equipment. Respiratory protection is recommended during laser cutting/engr...
Building a Better Propane Tank Furnace
Просмотров 65 тыс.2 года назад
This furnace performs well and can melt brass on only 2 psi of liquid propane gas using my custom designed forced air burners. Health and safety warning: Casting metal is a dangerous activity. Molten metal can be hazardous to your health. Zinc fumes can induce flu-like sickness. Regular masonry can explode if exposed to high temperatures. Always use a respirator when working with ceramic fibre ...
2020-09-13 Tongue Drum Demo
Просмотров 724 года назад
Steel tongue drum from 25lb propane tank Welded using 5/64 6013 DCEP electrodes Drum tuned to Dm pentatonic Use headphones/earbuds to hear the low frequencies Filmed on Canon EOS70D with AKG microphone for external audio. Basic video editing in Blender VSE. Gain was too high, so there is some audio clipping. I need to learn how to use Audacity to remove background noise. 2020-09-13
2018-06-26 Cube Van
Просмотров 706 лет назад
Skrrt through south campus wit the cube van. Filmed with a Pixel 2 28/06/18
Regulated Burner Testing
Просмотров 5036 лет назад
Linked from: www.reddit.com/r/Blacksmith/comments/8ikvqn/acetylene_regulator_on_propane_burners/ Look at that for a more detailed description. Filmed with a Pixel 2 10/05/18 Music: Intro - Pianoman Sofa; Lobo Loco Outro - The Maid With the Flaxen Hair; Richard Stoltzman
Propane Burner Testing
Просмотров 2926 лет назад
Video linked from: www.reddit.com/r/Blacksmith/comments/8f8ivp/propane_burner_problems/ The first burner is a very crude design made of a bell reducer coupling (1 1/2 inch to 3/4 inch), and a number 72 drill bit orifice in the crosswise 1/8 inch nipple. The flare is made of sheet steel, as is the air gate. This successful run was not reproducible. The second burner is a more refined design usin...
Simple 3D Printed Camera Stabilizer
Просмотров 1 тыс.7 лет назад
A video made for my CPSC 1090 Engineering Graphics course. Thanks to mah friend Ethan for printing stuff for me! Filmed with a dumb iPod touch and an epic FujiFilm XQ1 and a super cool custom camera stabilizer. 28/11/17 Music: Jazz Organ Trio Cool Blue; Doug Maxwell Outro - The Maid With the Flaxen Hair; Richard Stoltzman
Lego FPV Rig
Просмотров 2848 лет назад
This is a small test rig I made out of lego to experiment and gain experience with my new FPV gear. I am using a Fatshark Teleporter V5, with the provided camera and transmitter from the kit. I bought the kit from Getfpv at this link: www.getfpv.com/fpv/video-goggles/fat-shark-teleporter-v5-kit-with-headset-camera-transmitter-fcc-for-usa.html Filmed with a Fujifilm XQ1 Music: Unknown 29/04/16
Escapement_002
Просмотров 1018 лет назад
This is the second Lego escapement device I have built, but the first one I have bothered to document. It is based off a design by Ben Van de Waal which can be found here: ruclips.net/user/BenVanDeWaalvideos?&ab_channel=benvandewaal The weight falls about four cm per minute. I hope to develop these escapements into more efficient mechanisms in order to create a working clock capable of running ...
Slow_001
Просмотров 508 лет назад
So I recently got a new camera... My favorite function is the high speed mode! Just a bunch of highschool idiots having some fun! The clips with the green water were actually the first thing I filmed with the camera, and the first high speed video I ever took. I didn't know the florescant lights would flicker! Filmed with a Fujifilm XQ1 "Final Battle of the Dark Wizards" Kevin MacLeod (incompet...
Second Jam Jar Jet
Просмотров 918 лет назад
Second jam jar jet. Jar dimensions - 11cm, 6cm Hole - 1cm 23/01/16
The Respectinator - A Slingshot Crossbow
Просмотров 5909 лет назад
The Respectinator - A Slingshot Crossbow
Lego Semi-Automatic Loom Version 1.2
Просмотров 2,5 тыс.10 лет назад
Lego Semi-Automatic Loom Version 1.2
Lego Science Fair Walkers 2 (Four for the price of one!)
Просмотров 5 тыс.10 лет назад
Lego Science Fair Walkers 2 (Four for the price of one!)
There's a guy who programmed in Arduino in order to make thread cutting super easy with the oDrive you can basically do the same thing but a lot better and easier.
3:08 VESC can most definitely run with encoders, even the exact one used here. Pretty sure Benjamin Vedder himself has videos dating back to 2015 or earlier demonstrating it. VESCs are rarely driven in 'open-loop' mode. Most of the motors you'd use often come with at least hall-effect encoders that it can take advantage of. VESC has recently introduced HFI, which adds sensorless position tracking at zero speed. It is pretty incredible to see and it rivals dedicated hardware encoders. You should take a look. Nice video on the upgrade :)
Makos, I would like to contact you about a project that I am working on. May I have your email. Thank you Osny Fabricio
Merci Beau travail !!
More interested in the air flow and propane feed . everyone wants to show how to build the furnace and neglects to show the proper fuel flow!
@@RobertJones-q8j Hi Robert, thanks for your comment. I will hopefully be making an in-depth dedicated video soon, testing the forced air burner shown in the video against a naturally aspirated design
What kind of bricks did you use?
Hi Volodymyr, thanks for your comment The firebricks were standard insulating firebricks (IFB) from Morgan Advanced Materials
Best one Ive seen out of propane tank! Good job thanks for the Tut!
Can you make a video of making this torch?
Hi yes, a video dedicated to testing the performance of the burner and build instructions is in the plans. You can also download the CAD files from my grabCAD if you want to try building one right now.
Yes, if you can send me the code @@markosfraser3030
@@markosfraser3030 Yes please post the code
At 6:35, what is the longest, continuous powered on, active machining project you have made? How is the thermal performance of the motor/power supply in extended operation? Thanks.
At 2:30, there are several other owners of 7x mini lathes that are using 750W, 1000W, and 1500W brushless servo motors as well as 3HP-3PH motors on these lathes... A different presenter -- Artisan Makes -- was using 3HP until he recently upgraded his entire machine. "The Custom Crafter" in Florida is making 2HP brushless bolt-on kits for these and other underpowered machines as well. ... AnyHow, thanks for making this video and presenting your idea(s). I would like to see it run with 1500 Watts of power available and compare the performance to the previously mentioned and unmentioned presenters projects here on RUclips.... If you want to know the other presenters just contact me.
All these vids on youtube about how to improve the chinese mini-lathe. Best way is to throw it away and just buy something better and worthy of the name Lathe.
That maybe the best way, but there is knowledge to be learned either in the upgrading, or the failure to perform. An informed decision either way. Not everyone can afford a 22" American Pacemaker, or a 14" Clausing, or even just a 9" Grizzley as a first machine.
@@johnrussell6620 Save up - you'll be saving yourself money and time in the long run - both those things being in short supply these days.
Das ist ja garnichts ich pell mit meiner 3-4mm in stahl runter. Und hab nen billigen nähmaschinenmotor aus China eingebaut. Offenbar ist die Drehzahl bei dem Teil ziemlich gering. 12er Gewinde kann ich auch problemlos schneiden.
Its nice to see young people whos not in mortal danger while handling something more dangerous than wooden spoon :D
What version of SW are those cad files? It will be nice if you upload some drawings in pdf... not eweryone have SW...
Hi, my modified CAD files are Solidworks 2022. I can try to create .step files if there is sufficient request for them
@@markosfraser3030 Thanks for info. I think more like clasic, paper drawings in pdf format. Something like full assembly or few subassemblies, will be enough for someone who is interested, but use anodher CAD, or do not use it at all, or just want to take a quick look and maybe grab some idea for other project...
@@markosfraser3030 .step files would be nice! I don't use Solidworks. Great Project!
Well done Mark !
Nice video. I encourage you to make more. You have a good presentation style.
Thanks Brian! I already have a lot more video ideas, I'm just trying to find the time to film them all 🥲
That's neat! How will the motor stand up to wear? I guess it's not a professional shop but still it will pull more hours than in an RC toy.
A good source of aluminum for casting is engine rebuilding shops. They will have a supply of old pistons headed for he recycler. All you have to do is offer the shop more for their scrap than the recycler will give. Most aluminum pistons are castings and they make wonderful feedstock for your little foundry. PS - Don't cast metal on concrete, If hit with molten metal concrete will spall violently.
What denyer are you Oliver?
Did you ever release stl files for the fire brick jigs
Bricks are not temperature resistant. They dont blow up from heat, they explode.
بسیار عالی بود 👍🏽
Why the vertical gaps between fire bricks at their outer perimeter? You took pains making them so there must be a reason. Paul
Hi Paul, thanks for your comment. The vertical gaps at the outer perimeter are incidental from the geometry of the bricks and the furnace. Ideally the vertical gaps would not exist, but to grind both faces of the brick fully flat to the correct angle would require removing a lot more material, and probably an extra brick.
Very nice job. Why bricks instead of cement?
What size conduit was this tool mount created for? Would you think it would fit the C-23.5 mm (3/4") version? You did not state the conduit size of your machine. I am trying to fix the A40640 laser to a Burly.
Hi Robert, The specific mount shown in this video and up on my grabcad is for 25.4mm OD tubing. I actually used thick-walled DOM tubing because the marginal cost was worth it for the extra quality, rigidity, and ability to tap the tube walls If you want to mount the diode to a burly, you could download the f3d file, and try adjusting the design sketches to match the dimensions of your machine. I can recommend a piece of software called 3d-tool (www.3d-tool.com/downloads/) (setup_3dtool_freeviewer.exe) to inspect the STL files of your burly, and transfer the exact measurements into the f3d design sketches
@@markosfraser3030 - Thank you for the information. I will look into the 3d-tool app. Another question. I am going to hook up the NEJE A40640 to the burly with a RAMPS 1.4. What is the output voltage on the RAMBo board for the PWM output and what is Neje required input PWM voltage? What GCode commands are you using to drive the laser (M3, M4 or M106)? I am still trying to determine the proper pin for the RAMPS 1.4 PWM. I could drive the laser with D6 (FAN, 12VDC output) with the M106 but would like to with M3, M4, and M5 g commands. Last what version of MPCNC version are you using for the Rambo? Thank you!
Hi Robert, I'm using pin 45 for laser control. It's 5V logic, as discussed in this forum post (forum.v1e.com/t/rambo-1-4-5v-logic/31128). The A40640 should ship with an adapter board, allowing you to control the laser module with a control signal anywhere between ~2.4 - 12V iirc. I configured lightburn to generate GCode with inline laser commands. Refer to this forum post (forum.lightburnsoftware.com/t/laser-power-inline/15493/24?page=2) and marlin/grbl documentation (marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M003.html). You'll definitely want to use inline commands, because laser control through fan output is very slow and will not be suitable for engraving raster images. I would strongly encourage you to purchase a higher-end control board for you CNC. The RAMPS board is great, but too slow for high speed laser engraving. It looks like Ryan is selling the MPCNC with SKR boards now. It would be hard to go wrong with an SKR controller, or any other generic STM32-based control board. My version of the MPCNC shown in this video is a primo model. Hope this helps, best of luck.
Hello Mark, I am looking at the NEJE A40640 or the E40 laser module for mostly cutting. I was also wondering about the performance of the A40640 module since you are using one? How does it fair with cutting? I am looking at mostly balsa and light ply for cutting.
Hi Robert, The A40640 would be perfectly suitable for cutting balsa and light ply. There are lots of other youtube videos demonstrating it's performance in those materials. Air assist would be beneficial for that application; you should try to set up an air compressor and regulator. It will also generate huge amounts of smoke and present a serious fire hazard, so make sure you have good ventilation and a safe (non-flammable) area for laser cutting. Creality and other companies are also now producing very powerful benchtop laser cutters, you might consider just purchasing a dedicated laser cutter machine off the shelf, because the MPCNC is a heavy machine, and not the best for laser cutting (it can't accelerate quickly, a lighter toolhead is better).
Great Video! Would love to see all the details about the Setting and possibly a Long format video on your setup as well as your though process on speeds and feeds.
Your safety must come first watching your pour that molten metal was ridiculous Otherwise a good post
Wery good job.. Nice work
Any chance you could put a STL file up for the mount adapter?
Personally I just ratchet strapped the tank to a tree and used a pipe wrench to remove the valve
Awesome video! I just converted my Primo over to laser and both of your videos were a huge help. One thing you might think about is getting the new Jackpot control board. Ryan has seen a big jump in laser performance with this board!
i like it❤
What power supply are you using for the laser?
Its a 12v, 72w switching power supply. It's a sealed brick unit so I don't have to worry about dust
Great ! What firmware are you using for your MPCNC ?
I'm using the stock firmware that Ryan has flashed to the Rambo board. It is a slightly modified version of Marlin V2.0.7.2
Great video!
Ty Ryan! I've been loving my MPCNC and I'm looking forward to making lots more tool mounts and other content with it!
@@markosfraser3030 The gcode at 1:08, does that work without an "M3 I"? I thought I had tried that and it was required. If not, that is great and it is even easier than I thought.
Sorry another one. The speeds you are using, what board do you have? The boards I tested with Marlin I could not get raster much faster than 22-28mm/s I did some vector cutting and I maxed out slower than 100mm/s as well.
@@allted When setting up the gcode script, I recall looking into whether or not M3 was required. I believe since the firmware on the Rambo is configured for LASER_POWER_INLINE, it is not required because power is set directly in G1 ... G5 as per the docs: marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M003.html Whether or not my assumptions are correct, I tested it out and it seems to work without M3 : ) Regarding speeds and the board, I'm using the stock Rambo board that shipped with the kit (Marlin V2.0.7.2). For smooth vector cutting/engraving I've pushed the machine up to 60mm/s I believe. But the materials usually require speeds of ~4-18mm/s to get through them in only a few passes. Although I love it, the 8 bit board is quite limiting. Even running vector cutting with Lightburns perforation mode enabled can bog the controller down as there are just too many gcode instructions per second for the thing to handle. For raster engraving of images with Lightburns dithering or greyscale, I can't push it much faster than 18mm/s without the machine stuttering and ruining the engraving. For those reasons I'm considering building a new dedicated laser cutter using a more modern controller with more processing power.
@@markosfraser3030 You can flash GRBL directly on the rambo and not have to move a single wire. In the forums I did some testing and you can see the huge speed boost that got me. Of course I only tested raster, since anything vector I did was not a big deal, Marlin handled that fine for me. Definitely need to look into the M3 thing, I added it to the firmware and we have had to have people include it a lot in the forums to get things to work. I have a laser hooked up currently but it is running GRBL, I need to flash back to test.
F!
I think your lid simply got hotter because the hot air naturally rises, and there was an opening in the center which exposed the edge of the conductive metal lid to the fire, which of course spread that heat to the rest of the lid.
Really awesome video, thank you for sharing!! With the blower added, do you think this furnace would melt steel?
It may be possible but I have not attempted it yet. I'm also considering building a forced air, liquid fuelled burner which should be capable of melting iron and steel. Unfortunately, the firebricks I used in this furnace are not rated for those temperatures, so I'd have to replace them with higher temperature bricks
I see this was a couple of years ago… but your second burner was burning inside the tube, all you have to do is turn it off then relight it, let the propane run for a second then light.
The fan idea is fantastic, but you can do these things without the use of the fan if you build a proper inlet channel. It'll perform similarly and won't need a power feed to a fan.
Every naturally aspirated burner design that I have tested performs significantly worse than the forced air design shown in the video. If you can recommend a good naturally aspirated design that you think will match the performance of my forced air burner, please send me a link to the design
Nice experiments! I've done a lot of try myself with forced air burners, searching for the better efficency. Sometimes seems like your flame is burning inside the tube, you can clearly hear the sound and see some sparks and that's not good, eventually you'll end up with a lot of heat wasted and a red hot tube... in my tries I've been able to achieve a touch-safe, cold temperature on the tube and a flame fast and hot enough to make iron glowing white-hot by forcing air from the back of the burner via hairdrier (controlled by a water ball-valve for adjusting the amount of air in the mix), a small ball valve for the propane in addition to the tank pressure regulator (in tamdem with the air regulator you can achieve a pretty good control of the stechiomety ratio), a 180 degree inverted 0.8mm gas inlet (yes, the gas _against_ the air flow, this causes a better mix of the air-gas ratio, you dont want propane to be in some way "incapsulated" in the air flow, they gotta be well mixed together!) with some tricks for a better mixing of air and gas (turbolence induced by a small amount of coarse iron whool in the tube, for example, or some kind of "feathers" like a turbine inside the tube, I've tried a lot of different approaches), a smaller diameter tube (higher outlet velocity) with a wider final "cone" shape (a simple adapter for a bigger-diameter tube, like what you can see in a lot of video on burners) and that causes the mix to expand and the flame to reverb, be protected and remain outside the tube... with the right attentions you can achieve a flame that burns outside the tube, with a well reduced, fast, longer and more mixed flame. Thats my two cents, hope it helps!
Hey thanks for your comment! I recently have abandoned naturally aspirated burners in favour of forced air, you can see an example of my new burner in this video I posted: ruclips.net/video/KktUJiqQ2Ug/видео.html&si=EnSIkaIECMiOmarE Injecting the gas against the airflow is a really good idea! I think I might try redesigning my forced air burner to incorporate this idea, or perhaps add some fins/turbulence-inducing features on the inside of the burner body... I'm going to hopefully make a few more videos soon covering much more rigorous testing of various burner designs : )
Clever the way you removed the valve - amount of times I've seen other people struggle to remove it
try to add dish-washing liquid and kick it around the yard with water. bubble displace the lpg and make inert atmosphere wile cutting
Ty that's a good idea!
Great looking furnace. Safety third as a friend always said.
If you heat up the area around the valve threads with a paint stripper before trying to remove the valve it will come out a bit easier. The valve has sealant which locks the threads. But when the sealant is heated it becomes like soft goo.
Hey thanks that sounds like a great tip! I'll give it a try next time I strip down another propane tank
The definition of "payd by hour" video
Great video, but the music is nauseating.
You mentioned being unprepared while pouring the molten brass. You were wearing your fireproof safety short-shorts, what else could you need?
he forgot to wear his safety crocs :D
Fire brick can be easily cut with a saw and you can use a simple Bondo rasp to round off any of the corners it would’ve been a lot quicker
It would be possible to cut the bricks with a saw, but there would be no way to achieve such a precise and reproducible fitment as my jigs produced by working freehand. To achieve a comparable fitment you would have to construct a jig that holds the brick and guides the saw. And all the curved faces would still be time-consuming to shape using a rasp.
Hi Markos, I'd love to hear more about the burner - I've been considering a very similar layout using a similar fan in order to induce swirl. Do you have anything posted about the burner design?
Hi, You can actually find a CAD model of the burner on my GrabCAD (linked in the description), so you could 3D print one yourself and try it out. It is designed to print entirely without supports, and with minimal infill material. I don't have any other content posted about the burner at this moment, but I hope to soon make a video comparing the performance of my forced-air burner against other standard atmospheric burner designs.
@@markosfraser3030 fantastic, thank you!