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I just found the seam allowances to and got super excited..

I'm sorry you didn't find it useful, however I only have one camera and could not provide a second angle. This was a last minute video based on an 'a-ha' moment I had while sewing myself. In terms of sewing a flare, it doesn't change how you would sew the seam - you need to be sewing completely straight and if anything the additional fabric of the flare would help you when you get lower down the leg, as the leg tends to curl up inside itself and turn inside out as you sew (which is why it's difficult to see what I'm doing towards the end).

Thank you! I do very much enjoy wearing this dress, though it's a special occasion only type one because of it being silk

Thank you! I have since worked out how to do the cuff step on a different project, but I will definitely take a look at the tutorial to make sure I'm doing it correctly :)

I was using all purpose rPET Guternmann thread to make these jeans and haven't had any issue with the seams at all. If topstitching thread is too thick then I'd definitely recommend trying an all purpose thread through your machine. It might also be an issue with your tension dials sticking so could be worth having your machine serviced

Glad it was helpful!

The set up round is like a foundation for the pattern, so don't skip it. (I think that's the round where I went in the wrong direction in the video.) You need the foundation round in order to get the correct stitches for anchoring the vines stitch pattern. Anytime you see a setup round or a foundation round, always do it, even if the pattern only starts the numbered rows with the stitch pattern. Otherwise the stitch pattern won't have anything to anchor into. Pattern designers often only start numbering the rows when the stitch pattern starts, even if there are foundation rows or other rows which need to be worked. Does that make more sense?

Hi Katja, in Affinity Designer V2, there is a way to grade - it's called Power Duplicate. In essence, you duplicate the original once, make your scaling changes and then duplicate the altered object. Affinity will apply the changes you made to the altered object each time you make a new duplicate. Hope that helps!

Yes, Affinity added lots of new tools into V2 which would be very helpful for creating sewing patterns. I do intend to do a video on this at some point, I simply haven't had the time so far. In short, the following new tools are useful - -The new knife tool will be very useful for slashing and spreading -The customisable background grids will certainly be useful for designing without constantly measuring (you could set them to be a 1cm or 1" grid like on pattern paper and make use of the markings as you might when drafting manually) -The area tool will be very useful for measuring the length of curves -There's finally an equivalent to Adobe's eyedropper in the Style Picker Tool -You can scale objects in a similar way to Adobe's blend tool, meaning you can now grade with relative ease - You can align objects to a key point or object, for example making sure all graded pattern pieces sit properly spaced from the centre of the piece or from an edge designed to be cut on the fold.

Extremely helpful and appreciated!!! Thank you SO much!! Looking forward to your future videos ;). I definitely understand how hard it is to juggle everything!!

@@TheHaberdasherBee thanks for this - I found it really helpful. You and @donnab445 might like to know that the contour tool is really useful as you can make seam allowances with different widths. This video explains the tool ruclips.net/video/zpOm8AzTpW4/видео.html For a pattern create one layer with the sewing line only. Once complete, copy creating a second layer to use the the contour tool on - leaving it directly above the original. You can specify width based on your document settings - mine was set to inches. Make sure lines on both layers are aligned to same point: I chose aligning to outside of line so the outside of the line is the cutting line. Once every thing is right - bake the contour which switches you to node mode. You can then adjust nodes to adjust seam allowance for straight sections if desired. I haven't tried it on curves, but for curves or more complex things you can break the lines of the added contour where you need the width to change, so you can remove sections - so if you need a different seam allowance say for a hem or neckline, you could add additional layers copying from the sewing line layer, setting to a different seam allowance, then removing unwanted sections and making slight adjustments to seam allowance layers if needed. So long as you have all lines set to align to the same option, I've checked and the measuring tool indicates the width is consistent even on tight curves. I was drawing templates for drunkards path quilting. You have to label the curves so you know which is which, but that is good practice anyway.

Glad you found it helpful! And thank you 😊

Glad you enjoyed it!

You're welcome, I'm glad you find it useful!

That's useful to know, thanks for posting about it!

Hi, I am planning to, though it's having chance to do so! I've learned a great deal about patternmaking (both manual and digital) since making this video so there's lots of video ideas...hopefully later this year I'll be able to start making more videos again.

I'm glad you found it useful!

Glad you found it useful!

Thanks for the feedback, though I only have the one camera at present and a small sewing area, so not much space to show any wider views. In the future I'd like to be able to do this with a two camera setup though. Essentially what happens to the trouser legs is that they slowly get turned inside out as you sew along the seam - it's best to sew slowly so that you have chance to move the tube of fabric out of the way of the needle.

Not everyone who uses these scissors will necessarily be a tailor, though they are most commonly used by tailors and professional seamstresses. Many home sewists have never come across these scissors before, so perhaps your mother was lucky in being introduced to them - I hope she got lots of use from hers!

@@TheHaberdasherBee She was always making clothes for my sister. She saw them at a Singer sewing center and bought them..

So glad they're useful for you!

You're very welcome, I'm glad you found it useful!

That's an amazing deal! Love using my little buttonholers :) I hope they become a favourite tool of yours too

I'm glad you found the video and the brushes useful! Because the pattern piece is one joined up item, referred to in Affinity as a curve, it will as standard only apply one seam allowance brush at a time. If you wanted to have different seam allowances on the same pattern piece, you would need to break the curve at both ends of the section where you want the different seam allowance to be - in your example, at either end of the neckline/collar curve. To do this, you'll need to select the pattern piece, use the node tool (the little white cursor) and look in the contextual tool bar at the top. You'll see an area marked "action" and the button to break curves is the first one in the section (see approx 18:53 in the video for the node contextual toolbar). Select the individual point where you want to break the curve and then hit the break curve button. Affinity will add the broken area into the layers panel on the right as a new curve, so you can then select that curve and use the other seam allowance brush. I don't know whether it will try and add the brush to both sides of a single line, however, so you might need to play around with it a little if it does. Hope that helps!

I'm very glad you found it helpful Sally! :)

Wow that's an amazing find. I'm sure your grandson will love using them too :)

Yes, I saw - I'm just investigating the new features but it looks as though there's lots of added functionality for pattern cutting. May have to create a new video for V2...

@@TheHaberdasherBee that would be AWESOME! There are measuring tools and lots of new tools. I immediately upgraded and believe the value is absolutely there. I'm teaching myself to pattern and have my fingers crossed waiting to see if you update your tutorial. *BIG SMILE*

@@AlesiaDick I've got to admit that I'm pretty impressed with the new features list and I'm looking forward to trying them out. V2 could become the go-to pattern cutting software at an entry level price if it all works as intended... but yes, I think I will be making an updated video and accompanying blog post about it early in the new year (got lots on until then!)

@@TheHaberdasherBee I look forward to it!

You're welcome!

I'm glad you found the video helpful. If you go to the blog post linked in the video description, there's a button at the bottom of the page that says "download seam allowance"

I'm glad you liked it - I hope you have fun making yours!

French seams are simply a different finish to flat felled seams, they both have their uses and applications. Flat felled seams are incredibly tough, plus they're great to use with heavier weight fabrics like denim, so they're commonly used on particularly hard-wearing garments like jeans. They're also more common on menswear than womenswear for some reason. If you didn't want to flat fell the side seams, you don't have to. You'll see a lot of cheaper commercially produced jeans sew the side seams right sides together and finish the raw edges, but they'll also put more rivets and bartacks in place to help strengthen the seams. I chose to follow the instructions in the pattern and sew flat felled seams on both the inseam and the side seam for these jeans - and to be honest I'm really glad I did. My husband wears them on a daily basis and never has an issue with them, he finds them very comfortable, whereas the jeans I made for myself which don't have flat felled seams have had multiple splits in both side seams that I've had to repair. The next pair of jeans that I make for myself will definitely have flat felled seams as a result.

@@TheHaberdasherBee oh the TT instructions I’ve seen give you directions for a foe flat felled not a true flat felled.

@@velovloger2553 On the Jutland pattern, it's definitely a true flat felled seam, though I don't doubt that some of their other patterns use a faux flat felled seam. I perhaps should have shown how to do the full seam so it's clearer that it's a true flat fell, but I'd already done one and ironed/pinned the other in place when I decided to make this video - maybe another time I'll do a series of how-to's on different seam finishes

@@TheHaberdasherBee on that pattern how much is the offset for the 5/8” allowance do you start with a 1/2” offset? Thinking about trying a true on my next pair.

@@velovloger2553 I've not got the pattern in front of me, but from memory it's a standard 5/8" seam allowance all around, there's no offset in one pattern piece's seam allowance compared to the other as it's intended to be cut out on the fold. Once you've sewn the pattern pieces together, you're directed to trim one edge down by I think about 1/4" and fold the longer edge over to meet it, before then pinning and sewing the neatened seam edge. Folding the longer edge over by such a small amount in heavy denim is tricky, so it takes some patience, but it's definitely doable. I might have made my seams slightly wider than usual as my husband is in between two sizes at the waist and hips, so I used a slightly bigger seam allowance to get a better fit for him.

You may be able to do this if you break the curve, so that the hem is a separate layer to the rest of the pattern. You can break curves when using the Node tool (white cursor arrow) - it's in the contextual toolbar at the top. Just click the nodal point you want to break the curve at before clicking the "break curve" button - and don't forget to do this to the other end of the hem as well. I haven't tried this though so I don't know how it will display the seam allowance.

Craft knives have surprisingly flimsy blades, so while it's possible to use them you'll struggle to cut through the layers of fabric and stabiliser. Using dedicated tools like buttonhole scissors is always the best option if you can, since they're designed for the job and so are the much faster, cleaner and safer option. If you don't have any buttonhole scissors, I'd suggest using a seam ripper as they're far safer than using a craft knife - I made another video on using a seam ripper to open buttonholes if you check my channel. Hope that helps!

​@@No-One-of-Consequence I don't sorry - I sell haberdashery but I don't actually make clothes for sale or to order. I got into the haberdashery from making my own clothes. I am however in the process of learning how to draft sewing patterns - my first few will be women's patterns as that's what the course I've been doing focuses on, but in future I do want to release men's patterns too

Really glad you found it useful :)

I second this. Thank you!

Hear hear. At last found a video of the tube sewing. I wonder whether the jeans industry has a special machine designed for just this particular seam?

You're welcome! I hope you enjoy making your Tea House Dress :)

Unfortunately I cannot find a video where anyone goes into the interfacing. I am very confused about where it needs to go. On both Es? On both piece Bs? The pattern instructions really don’t get into detail at all. If not- then which one is used first? The one with interfacing?? Also the instructions picture looks like its doing something different when attaching piece E to the back and I don’t even know what to do at this point 😫

​@@Paxxmo Firstly, don't panic. I know it can get overwhelming and some of the techniques are a little tricky, but take a deep breath and just take things one step at a time. I didn't show the interfacing step because the fabric I was using couldn't really be ironed and it's also very structured as it is, so I felt that I didn't need any. However I have made this pattern before and did use interfacings for that fabric. The interfacing goes onto the front yoke facing and the back yoke facing only - so not on both E and B pieces, just one of each. The interfaced piece is the one that goes inside the garment and this is known as the facing. Keep a look out in the instructions for attaching the facings, as that's how you'll know whether you're using the interfaced pieces or not at any point in the instructions. There's a tutorial just for the yoke pieces on the Sew House Seven website that will probably really help you - you can find it at sewhouse7.com/blogs/news/tea-house-top-dress-front-back-yokes-1. It's not a video, but it's full of photos and you should still be able to reference what I'm doing in the video if that helps you to visualise it better. Hope that helps :)

Oh goodness I cannot thank you enough! Thank you thank you 🙏🏻

@@Paxxmo No problem :)

Yes it would be possible to add a button placket rather than a zip, however as the zip is centered on the seam you might need to do a little work to make them line up in the centre. Don't let that put you off if you really want to have buttons instead of a zip though! Try checking out the instagram hashtag #youcanhackit to see if anyone else has done this pattern hack or to get some ideas on how best to replace the zip with buttons. Hope that helps :)

Ah lucky you! Vintage/antique scissors are fascinating in their own right too :)

You're welcome - and I'm glad you managed to get through your complications!

I mostly use the pen tool to draw my lines, so it may have a line tool and I might not know about it. It doesn't have exactly the same tools as Illustrator though, and I know that can put some people off. As for dart transfers, you can rotate around a point using the transform panel and selecting the point to rotate around. I haven't done it for a while, but if memory serves correctly, you use the node tool to select the point and on the transform panel you can select which point on the box it rotates around (the selected point is the largest one on the grid). Hope that helps!