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Tunnell Custom Garage
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Добавлен 31 май 2007
We are living proof that cool projects can be done right in your own backyard. Featuring Ford restorations, an old Chevy build, International mission trips, camping with my family, and even construction projects, we have clean family-friendly videos that will encourage you to get out to the shop and get busy!
Видео
Correcting my mistake! 2013 F150 rear wheel bearing
Просмотров 17Месяц назад
Correcting my mistake! 2013 F150 rear wheel bearing
P144C How to fix error code, Ford Fusion, 2.0 L Ecoboost
Просмотров 238Месяц назад
P144C How to fix error code, Ford Fusion, 2.0 L Ecoboost
Rear wheel bearing replacement: Ford F150 4x4 (2013)
Просмотров 9732 месяца назад
Rear wheel bearing replacement: Ford F150 4x4 (2013)
Water pump replacement: Ford F150 3.5 L Ecoboost
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.2 месяца назад
Water pump replacement: Ford F150 3.5 L Ecoboost
Error code P0299 Turbocharger underboost- Ford 3.5 L Ecoboost. Turbocharger bypass solenoid valve.
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.2 месяца назад
UPDATE: We just got home from the beach - a 4.5 hour drive, pulling our camper (9600 lbs dry weight). No check engine light. I do believe this broken solenoid may have been my problem. I’ll keep you updated. This is an alternative repair for Eric code P0299 on the Ford 3.5 L eco-boost engine. This is not the turbo charger blow off valve located on the front of the engine near the bottom of the ...
How to change spark plugs on a Ford 3.5 L eco-boost
Просмотров 392 месяца назад
How to change spark plugs on a Ford 3.5 L eco-boost
REALTRUCK RETRAX truck bed cover: Ford F150 Tremor
Просмотров 853 месяца назад
REALTRUCK RETRAX truck bed cover: Ford F150 Tremor
Plastic welding, Harbor freight, 2013 Ford fusion bumper
Просмотров 903 месяца назад
Plastic welding, Harbor freight, 2013 Ford fusion bumper
Holiday Beach Raceway - drag racing in Alabama
Просмотров 4835 месяцев назад
Holiday Beach Raceway - drag racing in Alabama
1974 Ford F100 - video 101:  headed to the transmission shop
Просмотров 1685 месяцев назад
1974 Ford F100 - video 101:  headed to the transmission shop
Dyna Performance carbon fiber steering wheel: 2019 Mustang GT
Просмотров 1065 месяцев назад
Dyna Performance carbon fiber steering wheel: 2019 Mustang GT
1950 Ford F1 -Flathead reinstall and drive!
Просмотров 4855 месяцев назад
1950 Ford F1 -Flathead reinstall and drive!
1950 Ford F1 Flathead cleanup, oil pump gasket, engine bay
Просмотров 1045 месяцев назад
1950 Ford F1 Flathead cleanup, oil pump gasket, engine bay
1950 Ford F-1: transmission installation
Просмотров 1916 месяцев назад
1950 Ford F-1: transmission installation
Installing new radio head unit and backup camera
Просмотров 1598 месяцев назад
Installing new radio head unit and backup camera
Husky fender well liners on a new Ford F150 Tremor
Просмотров 5728 месяцев назад
Husky fender well liners on a new Ford F150 Tremor
How to fix Code 2196: O2, stuck on Rich
Просмотров 32010 месяцев назад
How to fix Code 2196: O2, stuck on Rich
2015 GMC heater and AC motor - plus overlanding setup
Просмотров 3210 месяцев назад
2015 GMC heater and AC motor - plus overlanding setup
1950 Ford F-1 Flathead V8, first start: part 3
Просмотров 356Год назад
1950 Ford F-1 Flathead V8, first start: part 3
My sister had a dark green one. When I got my learners she’d pick me up from school and let me drive home…. 😎
@@johndean2060 very nice! I remember driving in my daddy’s lap - way too short to reach the pedals but he’d let me steer. 😁
We are in front of Mad Dog Creamer in Pigeon Forge
@@allenweaver5997 ah! I looked for y’all all day. I’m not out there anymore. ☹️
Gorgeous!
@@kiphoover8705 indeed! This is in Pigeon Forge; Rod Run. Don’t know whose it was but it’s nice!
@@williamtunnell awesome. Thanks.
wish you said what size the bolts and such were.
@@mikemcbride6710 yeah, I should have - sorry!
Wow 8.8 ftlbs for the studs seems a bit loose
I agree? Steel into aluminum, I guess. Haven’t had a problem though.
How do you remove the plastic ring?
@@lizardking3268 very carefully - it just pops off. Push it off.
@@williamtunnell thanks! I got it off. Thanks for your video! Saved me lots of money!
@lizardking3268 glad to hear it!
Great video - the detail you include makes it real. Very helpful
@@jimd374 thanks for watching. Seems like yesterday. That’s probably the PTSD. 😄
Nice video! Will be trying to change my sensors this weekend
Things looking good
Fleetside
Indeed. A fleetside Dentside.
Got the same code a few days ago. Bought a new part, old one had a huge hole in the orange diaphragm. No more code and truck runs great. Thank you for sharing this video!!! Saved me a visit to the mechanic and only took me 10 mins.
@@bluegeckostudios glad it worked out! Crazy little part, tucked away, isn’t it?
@@williamtunnell Wasn't that bad actually, helps that my truck is lifted 6" LOL
Great video thank you
How are the lights holding up long term?
Still like brand new! I’m very pleased with them.
Thank you
What would cause the valve to be stuck removed all screws and when trying to pull it out it’s stuck. It springs out a little bit but won’t come off.
It may have come apart somehow, but there’s nothing that should hold it in.
What % are those windows? I’m getting the same truck next week. I like those shades of tint
@TexasPilotMX not sure. The front match the stock rears.
25%
Stupid question, from what you went through would this have been any easier using a lift? Vs a Jack and stands? Just curious.
Actually I didn’t even use a jack. Honestly, I can see where it could be easier on a lift but some work is done from the top side (removing all the tubing) and the rest is in the fender well. The difference would be being able to stand instead of down on your knees.
Gracias por tu ayuda.muy buen video y trabajo . saludos desde chile .
@@mauriciobriceno5114 chile! Excelente! De nada. Gracias para tu mensaje
THANK YOU! THANK YOU! THANK YOU! I have a 2013 F150 Ecoboost and at 50k it had an underboost code. I'm an EE so mechanical like this eludes me and I took it to the dealer. $6,500 later new turbos. Now at 100k, underboost code again. Your video is awesome and thank you for this, 25 bucks on amazon and it is now working great. Big hole in the gasket. It was easier for me to use a 1/4" ratchet after removing the hose. Again, I'm subscribing to your channel! Never going to a @#$% dealer again.
Thanks for the comment and I’m glad it worked for you. I learned some things the hard way too, so I’ve always been thankful for folks passing on something useful. Glad this video was a help to you.
Do u have to drill another hole in the block to mount that new manifold with 11 studs or are they already existing? 2014 ecoboost
@@corbinsteiger8442 no, all the stud locations are there. You will need to insert new studs though. It’s weird that the stud holes are there and Ford didn’t use them.
What if you don’t have a hole?
Hey man. Doing this repair on a 2019 3.5 Ford Transit 350. Having a really hard time finding the ‘white retainer’ clip in the engine bay. Need this van to go out for work on the next few days. Would you be able to help me out? I’m new to this repair and having a hard time finding the o2 sensor through the drivers side
Hey. I’ve never been in a ‘19 Transit, but you’ll have a couple of 02 sensors, one “upstream” and one “downstream” of the catalytic converter. They’ll screw directly into the exhaust pipe. Follow your exhaust from the side of the engine and the first sensor won’t be far. The second sensor will likely be right being the catalytic converter. Them both have the wire and you can follow it to see where it plugs in. I’m sit that’s clear as mud, sorry. Good luck though! Thanks for writing.
You're the man!!!! Nice, easy and straightforward!!! Saved me a couple hundred dollars!!!
Great! Thanks for commenting.
Does this work on a 2014
Yes, it should
Thanks for this video. I have a 2013 F150 3.5L Ecoboost and I was getting the P0299 code but it would only do it when I towed my boat. I could clear the code and during regular driving it wouldn't come on. Only when I towed my boat would I get this issue. After watching this video my son in law replaced the part for me. I then towed my boat from Lake Charles, LA where he and my daughter live back home to Austin, TX and it never came back on. If you're getting this code when towing I'd highly recommend changing this part. Also I was able to get the part at O'Reilly's for $60 rather than pay the Ford Dealer who wanted $112 for it. Also the part is now AA5Z-9U465-A.
@@txprospector thanks for providing the part number! And the comment! Glad it worked out for y’all
Truck is back to100% I used the Dorman for 59$ out the door way better quality from AutoZone I had a small tear in my diaphragm
2013 f150 purchased just for towing and family camping trips 170,xxx miles.. would throw code as soon as I had my 8,000 lb toy hauler trailer down on power up the 395 to Tahoe and lake June. 7600 elevation. Barely made it. Truck was getting hot and super down on power. My wife was making fun of my truck..lol Changed my bypass valve and the check engine light went off about to test it I’ll give an update after work when I take the trailer to Wash it
Yes, please update us!
Do you have a link on where I can buy this part?
Sure do - here ya go X AUTOHAUX Solenoid Valve Turbo... www.amazon.com/dp/B0BL13DJ8Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
FYI, the metal plate to the top right of the o2 sensor can easily be removed with a 10mm, gives more room for less ideal tools
Thanks for the tip!
I have to check and see if this is the issue on my ‘16 navigator. I was towing my little trailer loaded down with a motorcycle and got this code about halfway through the drive. When I got home and unhooked the trailer the code cleared itself. I don’t know if it’s the blowoff valve or the solenoid. Hopefully it’s not a waste gate issue
Yeah, I hope so too!
do you know if this is covered under the Ford Powertrain warranty?
I don’t, and that’s a good question
This is wrong info and will burn up your transmission. Take all the slack out of the cable before using the tool. Use the tool to set the pressure at 35 psi. And 35 means 35, not 34. Any pressure lower than 35 will burn up the transmission. Any pressure over 35 will cause the shift to delay but not do any damage to the transmission. If the pressure is set too high will cause late and hard shifts.
@@TexarkanaPrepper you are correct - what did I say that was wrong? Not arguing, just don’t remember. I certainly don’t want to cause anyone transmission problems.
@@williamtunnell I apologize for my strong use of words. Maybe I misunderstood, but I understood you to say that you inserted the tool to do the initial adjustment. If you do the initial adjustment with the tool and just pull out the slack, you will probably fry the transmission .The initial adjustment is to pull out all of the slack and lock down the clamp with Allen head screw. The tool is only used later to check the pressure with the engine warmed up and running, and the transmission in neutral. Any adjustments after that is done with the adjustment screw on the TV bracket connected to the back of the carb. The line pressure should be set at at least 35 psi or greater. Normally. If you get all of the slack out and TV Cable, the tool shouldn’t be needed, except for a check, because in my experience if all the slack is taken out, it will be at about 35 psi. No damage to the transmission will be done in that case..
@TexarkanaPrepper Brother! There are no words too harsh to keep someone from moving backwards with their tranny! I appreciate the intervention. I need to watch that video again, but I recall that I did pull out the slack and just the slack and tightened down that “barrel” clamp. Then, I put the tool in place and started measuring with the engine warm and in neutral. So I feel better about all that after reading your reply. Thanks! In fact, I didn’t have enough slack pulled out as I was reading 0 psi. I added a little pressure by pulling out on the cable slightly - probably a mistake, but pressure started building, but not up to 35 yet. Before I could release it and start making adjustments, my pump broke and the pressure dropped back to zero. 😩 but everything you posted is correct and I appreciate the feedback. I’ll watch it again - sometimes it’s embarrassing when I do. LOL!
@@TexarkanaPrepperI just watched this again and you are spot on! I put the pressure gauge in before removing all the slack with that cable stop. This is why I had 0 pressure initially and then had pressure when I pulled out on the cable. Honestly, I’m probably lucky my pump broke and brought it all to a halt! I need to edit this video. Thanks again! Where were you when I was doing this the first time? 😂😂
Is this the same mirrors from Ebay?
I honestly don’t recall - I think i got it off Amazon
Great video. The location and how to access the plug saved me a bunch of time. The O2 sensor with the shorter wire is probably for the passenger side. Just did both of the upstream sensors on my truck and the passenger side is shorter.
Thanks for the comment. Glad it helped out!
Good job. Very well explained.
Thank you!
Great video sir
Thank you!
Got a few questions. The check engine light came on and I went to my local auto zone to connect their little computer to it and it said I needed to replace my turbocharger wastegate vacuum hose. And the code is p0299. Is this the same thing I need to do to my rig or is it two different things. Nex, is there two of these on the truck since it’s twin turbo. The computer didn’t say a left or right
I’m surprised the Autozone scan tool got that specific, but this is not the wastegate vacuum hose. I have another video of a much easier-to-fix repair for P0299. I’ll link it below. There’s only one of these blow off valves, but there are two bypass solenoids (see other video).
Error code P0299 Turbocharger underboost- Ford 3.5 L Ecoboost. Turbocharger bypass solenoid valve. ruclips.net/video/RWdnu9t1d3s/видео.html
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2015. F-150 ecoboost I’m having the same code when I pull my camper. I’ll get the P0299 code and sometimes a little wrench comes on the dash. The truck will go into low power mode and the only way to get it out is to pull over and turn the truck off and restart it. It was worse when I increased elevation.
@@Capnchaos4202 been there, done that. A new throttle body (very easy replacement) corrected the “limp mode”.
Insufficient fuel delivery. All three carbs are connected one after the other to the fuel, and when on idle, enough fuel reaches all three. When higher rew the last or both bottom ones consumes more fuel than seeps through, and you get too low fuel level in the bowls. The higher rew the faster between cutouts. Check your fuel delivery...especially between carbs..
I believe you may be onto it here. Everyone I’ve sent this video to says fuel - so I’ll chase it down. I can’t get it do it on the muffs or in a tub - only on the lake. So that’s inconvenient. Thanks for the advice.
Bad fuel sea foam
All new fuel. But I do like Sea foam
You sir are a life safer!!! THANK YOU!!!!🙏🏾
Glad it helped you out!
One of the cylinders is probably not getting good spark or any spark Try getting a new stater or a new CDI, and replace your spark plugs, also try cleaning the carbs
I appreciate the feedback- stater is good. New CDI, new plugs and wires, new coil packs, new timer base. Carbs clean.
@@williamtunnell that’s should be about good, anything other than that I can’t help with lol
It’s not supposed to do that.
Haha! Right.
Worn out drive gears? Fuel pump issue? Does the motor always sound like that or is the issue it’s losing power or were you letting off throttle like that on purpose? Is it the rattling sound, what exactly is the issue your having?
I’m not doing anything except when you hear it throttle up mid-video and then throttle back down. In other words. I’m not doing that pulsing - the engine is.
@@williamtunnell Engine surging i would assume than maybe a Clogged fuel filter, Defective fuel system, Dirty fuel injector. Faulty Ignition System.
Do you have a link for the sensor you bought?
Ah, I don’t - sorry. I got it from Advance Auto (chain store here in the South).
If I were you, I'd replace that drivers side before that stud pops, because when it pops you will have to extract another broken stud. If you do it before it pops, the stud "should" come out in one piece.
Not a bad idea - but it’s just such a horrible job! LOL!
does a 2016 lincoln mkc 2.0 have one of these on the intercooler also?
If it’s turbocharged, yes, it’ll have some type of blowoff valve to release pressure. It may not be the same design, though.
Bet you don’t let that down to often lol
That was really strange. Bad design, I guess.
@@williamtunnell about like the release to let the rear seat down in a f150
Informative thanks
Thank you Allen!
Sounds like came a good rain lol
Man, a sprinkle sounds like a hurricane in that shop - you can’t hear yourself think! 😂