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it looks like the heavy conrod is causing the vibration. In Brazil we have a lot of 4 strokes races with the GX 200 and GX390 and we tested the steel conrod, but it didn't work cause it's too heavy. We use the original Honda conrod (not clone), machine the jornals to size and put a rod bearing. It holds very well up to 7000 RPM.

Don't embarrass yourself. This is an unprofessional approach. Working holding everything in your hands without any fixation, without examining the profile of the channel, without flow bench before and after is a way to nowhere. That's no way to be a champion, man. The valve chamfer is like on my grandfather's diesel, and it turned out that it is not possible to rub right away. And why all the frantic hand movements? Did you want to record a video so badly that you didn't even think you could screw up? Yeah, RUclips will take it all.

Forgive me, I don't want to sound like some kind of a hole but that's absolutely NOT the way to effectively port and polish a cylinder head. No, in MOST cases it is wrong to simply hog out the ports to the max. Some build require you to max port the head. But for reaI, I seriously doubt that increased the horsepower whatsoever, excluding the rocker upgrade of course. You have to remove way more material than you did, every time. It takes a bit of trial and error, but eventually you'll stumble up on a platform to work your heads that really wakes your engines up. But every port job is different depending on the build, and your expectations of the engine, what you are going to be doing with it. It's just more to it than what you demonstrated. If people follow that method exactly they'll be some pissed off folks! Can you feel a power increase working a head in that manner? Js the cylinder head is the MAIN source of power for a an engine, IMO, it's ALL in the cylinder head design

No billet rod or billet flywheel need to see a beast version of this engine

Sir how can i put push button?

Nice work, and good luck

Hey Jason, good luck with your engines in this upcoming endurance race. I hope the changes you've made will be effective, and after the race, you are able to collect more data for further improvements on your products.

It looks like the failures were connecting rod and or oiling related. If they left the internal governor components installed after bypassing it with the direct carb linkage that could have been related to the failures as well. A stock rod will only live to around 6K RPM. I didn't see any top plates on the engines for block support either, that's a no no.

Newaygo has got nice cutters,By far Dud!!!!

Use a spring on ur pilot shaft,shafts, want,cut ,or put too much pressure, while cutting ur seats,much smoother cut also,get some tools to work with,but I guess your on a budget,Huh,thought so!!!!

Vent crank case to ur catch can,not valve cover,electric break-in stand works way better,for seating in your engine,only on short block assembly!!!!,leave head off!!!!

You never trued,the sets in head,Duh!!!!

I run a dyno with simple dyno but I used cdi performance parts plug and play sensor kit. If you want to try it out free let me know just make a video on it it's comes tested and it's plug and play no work. I run a dyno and 99% of the people that try simple dyno it doesn't work. Thanks brother

I’m building a Dyno and your video helped me a lot, I hope you upload the second part as soon as possible. It’ll be a blessing if we could connect, the dyno will be a success.

Is it possible to get the side cover, crank and connecting rod ? I'd like to get one for a GX motor I'm building.

Which engine did that side cover come from?

How much does it cost, id love to buy one, since it has an oil pump unlike the normal oil splash.

SO YOU ARE INSTALLING A PVC TUBING

Lmao what prototype looks like a clone block to me so you rigged a side cover with oil pump or filter that is not new some big block clones have this setup nothing new but I have seen others do this on a small block's nothing new here....

Enjoying the progress 💪😎 keep it up 🎉

Great update!

Guess I am 110... hopefully give a lil octane 😉

Give out some JS racing gloves 🤷

Seems like a monster 👹 project 🤔... 👍😎

What size is this in cc?? Curious 🎉

Forgot to ask, wha5 fuel are you running?

I've seen carb floats be set wrong or bent .

You are cutting your valve seats incorrect if you would like to know how to do this the correct way I would tell ya just let me know I am a engine builder build 196cc and Briggs animal motors quite often you should really look into the Ne-way cutters if you are going to do this a lot does a way nicer of a job

Hi ... I really liked your video .... do you happen to sell this Alignment Tool ?

Just found your channel and I'm really interested in that pressurized oil feed/filter system. Excellent bit of engineering! Can't wait to see more on this!

I've looked through a lot of your videos, certainly can't knock you enthusiasm. A couple of notes about GX clone engines, Honda designed the engines to work at 3500rpm for thousands of hours, we as engine developers want more, clone engines are a copy of the honda, the copyright courtcase by Honda meant that some changes had to be made, so the 224/225cc was produced, Ducar produce the best outright budget block that is then passed along to different suppliers ie. Predator, Jcb, and Ducar themselves. Unfortunately there are a number of design flaws, one being internal balancing, a predator 224 has some vibration issues, mount this on a generator or power washer-not really an issue, but on a minbike or go-kart, it can become uncomfortable. Change the piston and rod to performance, well this upsets the balance even more, change the material and things will fall off! The crankase is cast with price in mind, so Honda GX parts will fit, this also means that moving parts are close to each other and the block wall in a 224. There's quite a few Forums that discuss the 224 in great detail, Bob's 4 cycle, DIYgokarts, Predator 224 owners club Facebook, and of course youtube. Single cylinder engines are impossible to completely balance due to the recipricating weight and girating forces, a twin cylinder overcomes this problem, What came be done is try to make the best of it by using a balance factor for recipricating masses, this will effectively balance the engine for a range of around 2000rpm, there are charts on the web denoting what balance factor to use. These charts are for two stroke engines, but that's all we have, so unless a great deal of research is done on the GX engines I would use this as a reference, and I have. The oil pump is not really neccessary, a shelled billet rod is very reliable with the correct ZDDP classified oil, just change the oil frequently. A 26mm venturi adjustable carburetor will suit your needs, it just requires correct jetting for your application, Black66 has a few videos as does Redbeardgarage explaining carb tuning, Check your timing with a digital timing light, you want 32/34degrees, adjust with offset keys for the flywheel. Horse power is another thing that's a bit of a downer, if you put a standard 224 on a dyno it may reach 9 with the governor removed. When aspiring to acheive more power it may be best to think of it as a % improvement, 100% is easily achievable, but will reduce the engines' working life and as you've mentioned you need to spend quite a bit of money to get there. Attending to the engines' factory flaws will get more from it without braking the bank, Porting the head for greater flow reaps big benefits for little financial outlay, boring and jetting the cheap carb again little cost, an aftermarket exhaust, yep another gain, safety-change the flywheel, benefit is on some the ignition timing is already set to 32degrees, all this will still only get you to around 12hp America has really grabbed the GX market and have a wealth of aftermarket performance parts, but also a wealth of knowledge to tap into, I'm in the UK and there really isn't a GX performance formula, we're still two stroke driven with Rotax being the driving force. I machine or buy parts from an importer, it's been the only way to build my little monster, I have no doubt it will blow up, I'm asking too much from what is basically a cheap £150 stationary engine. I have subscribed to you channel, I wish you luck on the entertainment park project and the engine development. Keep posting 🙂

Can't understand why you don't have more views. Your channel has just come to my attention. I was going to make my own stand, but a kart shop that sells bits on ebay had a standard kart stand/trolley for £100, I couldn't make one for that, so I bought it. I did make a bead braker from scrap, works a treat.

Good to see DIY work instead of just buying or farming out to a machine shop. Couple of hints, when checking for leaks use brake cleaner fluid or Isopropyl alcohol, this will remove any reisdue as you check, they are also a little less forgiving when checking for leaks. Second, when porting, open up the the inlet port transition angle from the neck to the back of the valve seat area, this gives the air fuel mixture a little swirl help passing the valve opening. There's a number of videos describing this procedure, David Vizard has a long video on port design, he also references another video that goes into the benefits of a widened port. The increase in port size is minimal to keep the velocity, it's the shaping that's important, these increases are only really felt at higher rpm's

肋骨还好吗😂

Just found your vids. I thought I’d be subscriber 100. 🎉

Is that a AliExpress valve cutting set?

Hi guys, whats the product you use on valve seat to check the job ? I cant find it in France

What small block it that? Ive never seen a internal oil pump on a clone based engine☝️

Great video !!! Good content. Great explanation . Well put together. Keep it up!!

As soon as you mentioned the crankcase breather, made me think of all the small engines I have ever worked on and non have pcv valaves. Great idea. But you need an inlet and an outlet on the crankcase. That way there is flow threw the case and not just vacuum. But cooling the valave cover to the crankcase by a tube are that same air. Am I wrong? The valave cover has pushrods inside it open to the crankcase. So that air is one and the same.....

Great video. One recommendation I have would be to upgrade microphones (or possibly adjust placement). Whenever your voice exceeds a certain decibel it seems to cause a slight static/distortion. This may also be fixable with EQ software. Other than that you were great in your information delivery, and there wasn't a lot of "filler". Definitely subbing to see where this goes.

How do I get one of those side covers!!??

When do you think you have a production model ready?

Nice. Is that a Lo206? I’ve never seen that oil filter on a small engine like that. Does it have an oil pump now?

💕Wow💜💜💜💜💜🧡💜

🥳 let's go!

Maybe Post a Video every day, and one week recap showing what has been done, not as detailed as the daily Vlogs but just enough to keep everyone engaged and to attract more Viewers?

I like it, i was surprised to see that you are such a small Channel. The Video is so well made! I hope you document everything just like this :) I am hyped!

😚 *Promo sm*

Your porting not much effecting the airflow. Its not much change. Come here i will show you good port job!✌️