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Hi, still working well after 3 years of use

Hi! I just screwd the studs firmly, there is no torque spec for them. Ofcourse I did the head nuts by the manual torques. Thanks for your comments

Thanks! didn't have a rev counter at that time, but that should be around 650rpm. These air-intakes work perfectly, I also have a strong blower inside the engine box. I am not aware of any kind of re-timing on this engine, not mentioned in the workshop manual.

It is a Westerly Longbow 31'

Hi glad you like it! Unfortunately I have no time to make a guide about it. The most of the information, is in the ardupilot webpage . The custom part comes to the drive unit which you have to design for your boat. For sure you need a good servo I used a 35krg 180 degrees servo but you can use a bigger one.

HI! The camshaft indeed turns clockwise and no matter how you install the impeller it will set blades on the correct orientation when the engine starts. You don't have to worry about it. Also when you stop the engine, sometimes the flywheel might half-turn c-clockwise from compression in the cylinders. That will make the blades turn to the other side until you start the engine again. Hope I covered your question

I was entering chat history to check on this. Apparently the design of this engine totally thought through for endurance. Mine is mdb2(15hp) but has few differences. Many Components are the same.

early 2020

Thanks:) Absolutely if you know how to weld that would be the best option. I would have done it myself but don't know how to weld so I went with the plumbing fittings. Still running great after 2 years

@@svakestor7219 thank you, you are very kind!

Would be nice but we are half world far!

Hi, just saw your comment, thanks. I am using a servo for driving the wheel. Ardurover is the firmware for use on boats as well.

ακουραστες μηχανες, καλη επιτυχια!

yes, you drill the pilot hole through the other side of the hull. Make sure it's the right spot!

Good info thanks. The video has mistakes that's why I recommend to the watchers reading the updates in the description and the comments also, as the most important information sits there.

Thanks, I bought it from a store in Athens Greece.

Ευχαριστω Παναγιωτη! Θα ηθελα να της βαλω ψυγειο, προς το παρον την ξεπλενω με γλυκο νερο που και που. Αν εχεις καταγραψει τη μετατροπη θα ειναι πολυ χρησιμη να τη δουμε!

Sure a friend of mine has this setup. Larger rings

What do you do with the sheets on the roller furled jib when you hoist the looped on jib?

@@williamturner1517 bring them down inside the loops, so they’ll exit out of the closest loop to the drum. Just like the ATN system works

Hi there! Polyester has top thixotropic qualities, meaning you can laminate overhead, and the patch will stay there and will not sag. Vinyl ester is stronger and better for the job, but you pay the double price. Now epoxy is tricky, I don't think it's as much thixotropic as poly even if you thicken it...great resin but I wouldn't use it for laminating, unless gravity worked in my favor, or had the equipment for vacuum infusion method. I had the hull coated with 5 layers of epoxy primer later.

@@svakestor7219 Thank you. I agree. :)

That's true! Never felt insecure onboard. It sails great in all points of sail, even in broad reach-running with big waves, it responds quickly to the rudder.

@@svakestor7219 Thanks, the more I find out about the Longbow, the more attractive it becomes as a prospective next boat. I realise they're not to everyone's taste but for me the robust and purposeful appearance is really appealing. The Longbow design ticks all the boxes as it has the features I'm looking for, eg, the rig/shrouds spec, the cockpit layout, generous headroom etc. etc. Your comment on it's sailing is of interest as I haven't been able to find much information on that other than just general comments. The info that I have found describes her as steady and reassuring, which appeals to me. As a singlehander a steady and stable platform is a firm requirement. I've also come across a comment saying that with decent sails, properly trimmed she performs really quite well and can surprise other vessels. Thanks for your comment, Longbow at the top of my list.

@@saturday7 Indeed she accelerates to hull speed very easily! Another positive is that with balanced sails, you don't need to steer much, just do corrections

Instead of a rubber hose, it would be better with a plastic hose, bent with a heat gun to a U shape. Plastic will slip better on the aluminum foil than rubber!

Thanks:)

They are dirty engines but really robust!

Thanks!

Thanks, she is very seaworthy, i' ve been around Aegean sea with strong summer winds and was sailing really smooth, fast and safe. This had heavy osmosis as it was an abandoned boat for a decade in the water. I don't think a well maintained Westerly of the '70s will have osmosis problems.

Exactly! if you don't wrap the threads with the Teflon tape then it will stick there with the backing plate when the epoxy cures.

Indeed I omitted to change the lip seals on the video, a thing that I did later without doing another video about it. It's a really easy task to do though. The specific pump does not have bearings, the shaft just goes through the lip seals. Most probably you know how to fix yours, but if there is something I can assist in, send me a message.

Glycerin will help for installing the impeller but it will be washed quickly. Grease will stay for some time but eventually it will be washed too. I didnt do it in the video, but another important thing is to put grease on the gasket so you have a watertight connection.

@@svakestor7219 Regular grease for bearings and such is not good for the rubber. I guess if you do this shortly before using the engine, it will not have time enough to do any damage before most of the grease is flushed away with the water but I would not let it sit greased for a long time. There is grease that doesn't damage the rubber like silicone grease.

@@skunkjobb I agree 100%. I don't put any grease anymore because it's not good for the impeller and it will wash out also, so why put it? . CurrentIy I don't put any grease at all, just a few drops of oil to easily pass the shaft in and that's all.

Absolutely. No problem with that. The installation afterward has to be gentle for not damaging or displacing the sealing rings.

@@svakestor7219 Thank you. Is it best to hand crank the engine to relocate the pump shaft, or to turn the impeller?

@@noskanow You are welcome. Better to turn the impeller until it goes in. I usually remember where the camshaft approximately rests and turning the impeller around that location.( For example at 12 o'clock)

@@svakestor7219 Thank you very much for your excellent video and very helpful advice.

hard to say i am also looking for new ones. i went with old sample and i bought new ones but they were leaking as they were softer rubber than originals, so i kept on the old seals and they are still ok.

I finally found here new seals akron-hellas.gr/en/products/types this is not a shop were you can order but to know what kind of store to look for in your area. There should be several shops selling industrial seals. I bought them 1 euro per piece. . The size is OD 1 Inch, ID 1/2 inch. Good luck!

@@svakestor7219 Thanks nice of you:) Got a new one now. No more leaks :D

Get the seals from Volvo after market seals have steel sealing springs that rust Volvo uses stainless

see at the top right corner of the skeg at 3'15"!

You can't hear them when the engine is working, they need replacement for sure but got away with it since it's only the handstart :)

I omitted this on the video: Internal lip seal (water) goes with the spring facing the stern, and the 2nd (oil) with the spring looking at the camshaft. . Care is needed to not block the weep holes with the side of either seal.

You should find easily in your town's shops. It doesn't need to be volvo. Take a sample with you for the corret size. This online shop may also have, you can email them. Good luck! www.poseidonmarine.eu/

Yes it's a Westerly 31 Longbow Ketch( just added it to the description thanks for mentioning), and it should be somewhat of a "custom" order because it was made with 3 portlights, and the helm at the stern, not right behind the mizzen as most are build.

Ευχαριστώ πολύ! εσύ με τι καταπιάνεσαι?

Thanks for watching!

Hi, its a Longbow Ketch!

yes, through the cylinder holes is the crankshaft

Glad it helped!

Thanks for watching!

It's a relief for me.. I just bought a boat and I believe the pump is similar to the one on my boat lol

whats p/n stands for?

​@@svakestor7219 I think he was asking for the part number.