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Needed to see the panel wash test. Using AK Gauzy. Thanks.

Ruitool purple are low level ruitool and they cut very well for that. You can get em for 16 too

Ruitool has three or four levels of quality so apples to oranges is an important consideration while making comparisons. Ideally, one needs two or three quality levels of nippers in their arsenal.

Nice! I notice that you don't spray on any primer before painting your cockpit parts, including the PE parts, so is primer not needed then? I am just getting back into the hobby and have quite a few questions! :D

I suggest writing a little script before hand because some of your commentary does not make sense, so maybe off the cuff isn't your thing, which is fine by the way. I think you could have expanded on some points. Such as why you can be a little sloppy with this product, etc. Such as explaining how it self levels, for example. (If it does).

Спасибо за обзор! Попробуем. Молотов хорош, но и Китай не отстает.

Pushing the boundaries Cam! Cool experimentation! Love how you’re trying to see if it leads anywhere useful on the modeling front

Think your mic is dead

I am not sure if this is relevant: Does the type of gloss layer matter? Meaning if an acrylic base works better vs. a lacquer baser one

Great build. Really impressed with the hobby knife chipping - result is very realistic looking. I don't know how you did that without scratching all the way down to bare plastic, but well done!

I have little ball bearings in my paint, would it work with those?

I missed it....what are the 'oil' washes? Most of mine are enamels.

Outstanding work!! Your braver than me I would have used the decals over a silver paint job.

Very cool video and impressive build. The long format works really well for these types of videos imo. The voice over and background music are spot on and make for a very enjoyable watching experience. Looking forward to the next episode!

Beautiful build and yea it does suck when your doing such a detailed build and making the model as nice as possible the. You all of a sudden touch wet paint and leave a finger print in it or you glue your finger to a tiny part or have glue on your finger and touch a cockpit or engine and ruin it then you gotta buy a whole new kit so your current build stays looking good and not a glue bomb with a finger print or leveled off skin stuck tojjt

That was a absolutely outstanding build, I particularly liked the cockpit and the engine, congratulations on a job well done, best regards from Australia, Les

Beautiful!

The metal work is very convincing for something that was acheived with paint. It's always tricky and especially on a kit that does not have flawless engineering on which a recribed panel will stick out like a sore thumb with a NMF. I going to be starting my Miniart Jug soon and want to do it in NMF as well so this video was highly informative.

Great build! Love the weathering effects!

That's the only downfall of 3d decals is getting the right color match .

Is your name Eric by chance? These pens seem to have a very specific usage

What masking were you using? I see oramask 810 recommended a lot. Amazon seems to mostly sell 813. Not sure if there is a big difference. I had somebody gift me a cricut so I'm hoping to start making my masks in the near future.

Based on the video I just picked up the black CA filler. I think its going to be far more effective then the messy squadron putty I used to use that always cracked and shrunk and better than just thin zap a gap CA glue. Thanks for the vid in helping me choose a better product. Have a 1/48 KA-27 currently on the table awaiting some seam work.

Planning on doing a natural metal F-101 myself somewhat soon, but I don't have good enough ventilation to be comfortable with lacquers so was planning on using Vallejo's Metal Color line; do you know if there's anything that applies here that wouldn't apply when using an acrylic metal color? This might be the best metal look I've ever seen so I'm hoping to be able to follow it relatively closely.

Thanks for sharing the ugly/discouraging side and recovery steps! Other modeling videos makes it seem they get it perfect all the time. Would love to know if there are some stars and bars files for my Silhouette for 48th scale

Looks cool. 🛩

Keeper video! Thanks, Cameron!

And some goodies 😂

Better results in gloss surface

Tamiya: but the bottom looks more luxury 🤣🤣

Don't forget to add the stainless steel areas on the lower section of the fuselage. And the turbo dome on the bottom as well as the trapezoidal heat shield behind it should be dark rust brown.

this looks effing awesome!!

Great result, Cameron. Thanks for making this video and giving excellent descriptions of your process.

Great tips and techniques, so far beyond my skill level but I will be coming back to reference this when I try a natural metal finish for sure.

Great video 🎉🎉🎉sir🎉 your channel should be more successful. 🎉🎉 keep at it,,😊

A-Stand == Alclad sold by Ammo Mig. The name is different due to some contractual stuff that happened, the history is fuzzy on what exactly happened. The product is the same though.

Interesting technique and nice to see experimenting. I recently did a NMF P-47 as well. After the Tamiya gloss black, I let it cure and level out for 24 hours. Then polished with the Tamiya polishing compound Fine & Finish. For the bulk of the plane, I used Mr Metallics Aluminum thinned with Mr Rapid thinner. I dries fast enough to keep the metal in suspension, giving it the shine. A light buff with a paper towel - once my airbrush is cleaned for time and then power tool buffing. I’ve been using the soft wheels (need to find that sponge wheel you used) of various density to polish it to metallic near mirror. Once decals were on, clear coat to lock all on and it dulls it some to that oxidized look. I also used oils like you did to add some patina/oxidation. I think I spent as long polishing as you did painting with the various layers and masks. Similar effect it appears and I like it.

😅I could really use some suggestions on a rather unique project. An irregular, weathered, metallic finish....sort of leaning toward steampunk. So very forgiving. Can send photos of computer rendering. Printed in very high quality 3D resin. I moderate the 2001 A Space Odyssey Master model builders site. Have posted numerous build posts. But am challenged by this one. Need some advice from an airplane specialist. Cheers, can send a friend request or I can send you my email. Richard STIERS.

Question..what was that black goop in a tin, that you used to fix the wing?

Thanks for the video! I've been using a trash pair of cutters for a while and based on your video and other's opinion, I just bought the Stedi 109s as well as a Tamiya pair.

Thanks for sharing this video. Decal solvents work in mysterious ways sometimes. The underlying surface makes a huge difference in many ways

Very nice result! Your use of that fabric was new to me, so thanks for adding another arrow to the quiver.

Mr. Color GX2 (Ueno Black) gives a superlative gloss black shine. Spray it on wet and no primer needed. Great stuff. Your build is Awesome, thanks for sharing!

Great tutorial and technique. I experiment with bare metal finishes as well. Preparation is important. All of my latest aircraft builds had had the majority of time spent on outer surface modifications and corrections done to the plastic to the point primer was not required. Built a 1/24, 'Bonnie' P-47 as the AirCorps Aviation restoration version. A 1/18 FW190 A5 as a modern restoration in bare metal. Both are posed in flight on custom stainless steel stands. A third 1/24 Airfix Mk.IXc Spitfire project will be G-IRTY the Silver Spitfire that requires a high polish aluminum finish and a 1/24 P-47 Bubbletop that will be a factory new look, markings done with a, 1 Man Army mask set. Reveal vids posted on my channel as well as an official RAF training film on preparing and painting, 'High Speed ' airplanes featuring Spitfires that shows the use of putty and primer/filler on the D box section of the wings that you my find interesting, Cameron. I have subscribed.

This is awesome, and good timing! I’ve been working on the same kit and it’s kinda stalled while I figure out how to get a good metal finish that I’m actually happy with. Your technique looks great and I’ll be giving it a try. I purchased all the paints and other supplies (including that sewing tape stuff, lol) while I was watching the video. Thanks for the instruction and I look forward to watching the next part about decals and painting on markings.

Good afternoon my friend, I have to admit firstly I am no 'expert' on what P-47 weathering should look like, but I think you nailed very well, I really don't think that after two or three flights the aircraft would be looking farely dull, if you like what you have achieved then no more discussion needed, best regards from Australia, Les

Unless I'm very much mistaken, according to the Department of Weights and Measures, a dollop comes in just over a smidgen.

Looks great. I am wondering about the possibility of panel variations though, could it be done? This is exactly the type of look I would be gunning for. Great video. You just made a subscriber out of me.

very nice

Seems to me that AMPS has a more thorough approach, as build quality does not automatically disqualify entries from being awarded points for other aspects, like painting, weathering, and scope of effort. However, IPMS rules can allow for quicker judging since there is no further scoring of a subject that fails the construction criteria.