Видео

Thank you! If there's something specific you'd like to see, let us know!

Nice! Let us know how it goes and if you have any questions! Here's the link to the full video. ruclips.net/video/GQQd1abLcVs/видео.html

Hey! is not recommended. Gelcoat is very porous, and you could end up with pinholes. Always primer gelcoat before painting for the best result.

Thank you! If there's something you'd like to see, let us know. Thanks again for watching.

Hey there! Great question. When using the 18900S Performance enhancing reducer, the application of the first coat and cross coat is wet on wet without any flash time in between, per the technical data sheet. No need to wait and do a traditional "second coat". one walk around the boat and you're done. Remember that using this reducer changes the mix ratio of the paint to a 3:1:1/2 per volume, compared to 2:1:1 per volume when using the traditional reducer. Thanks for watching btw. Check out our website and you can find the TDS for Imron top coats and clear

Yes i did! that's on our Part 1 video. You can use a sanding block to sand down your repair spots. If you miss any spots at this stage after priming, the Evercoat 400 glazing puddy works great because it gives you the option of not having to prime on top of it. (Although it is always recommended that you do). BTW Thanks for watching, and for your question.

Thank you! Really appreciate it and glad that you found it helpful! We hope to keep putting out content like this!

With a razor blade and Debond formula. You can score the sealant and apply Debond to help it release. Then peel and scrape off. Always do a test spot to make sure it doesn't cause any adverse reactions to any surface. This is the link to the product on our website www.merrittsupply.com/product/debond-2000-marine-formula-adhesive-cleaner-remover/

The color is "Atlas blue" in Imron MS600

Hey There! Thank you! and thanks for watching. Short answer: Yes, you can add flake, pearl and effect additives to the paint and then clear it or spray a "mid coat" of clear with the flake, followed by a finish coat of plain clear. Long answer: Metallics flow out and lay out better in basecoat/clear systems. The paint on the video is single stage, sometimes the additives tend to move around in single stage paint causing it to look uneven. We have a base/clear video coming out soon to show you. Remember also that repairing metallic coating it's pretty difficult, so protecting your base with clear will make any repair job a lot less difficult. If there's something specific you want to see, let us know and we'll make a video about it! Thanks again for watching.

@@merrittsupply thanks for the reply! Look forward to future videos!

Hey there! So the 3k is still an acrylic urethane paint and can be repaired and buffed, just like the 2k. The OG AWLGRIP is still more durable due to it being a high solids Polyurethane based paint AND you have the option of brushing it. From an applicators point of view, G line requires much more technical skill to spray. The 3k is much more user friendly and if you go the extra mile with G-3039 and T0163, you can lay out the paint like a sheet of glass. HDT is more durable than AWLCRAFT and it can still be repaired and buffed, however it requires much more technical skill to spray, even more so than G line. Give the 3k a shot! And btw thanks for watching and for your question.

@@merrittsupply what is the G-3039 and T0763??

@@ShanneCoffman Hey there! The G-3039 and T0163 are optimized catalyst and reducer (respectively). In comparison to the traditional G3010 and T0003, this combination allows for better coverage and flow of the paint, creating an overall greater DOI (Distinctness of Image). What does all of that mean? The paint will cover in less coats and it will flow out better, reducing orange peel. Let me know if you have more questions. 😁

Thanks for the feedback. We'll find something more neutral for the final part. Thanks so much for watching