Видео

6 inch.

Different layout, different instrument panel, different console, different transom, larger livewell, structural pad hull on the 8 series vs standard mod V for the 5 series. Just off the top of my head. I'll probably edit this with updated things as I think of them.

If I recall correctly it was 10 3/8" diameter prop. Going to the right pitch propeller will fix over revving, not switching to stainless.

It should go pretty well for you. Granted, depending on the local Tracker dealer in your area they may drag their feet on fixing your rig if they're THAT kind of dealer. I have seen some that do it very quickly. You are all stock so they have absolutely no grounds to stand on regarding warranty denial. That's insane man, the boat is not even two years old at this point and the bow plate is already cracking! Request they reinforce it in some way while it's in the shop getting repaired. You don't want to leave it to chance for it to happen again.

@@extremeboating7347 that’s the plan.Im already expecting them to drag there feet because its warranty work and will be fine without it for a little bit.But definitely asking for some reinforcement to be added so it don’t happen again.Hoping there not just going to reweld over it and slap paint on it and call it a day.

@nathanlorenz3778 if you don't ask for them to reinforce it thats probably what they will do to be honest. I don't know what it is about the front of those Bas Trackers but they have a very low tolerance for a trolling motor up there. If it's even happening to you and others who are still stock it's definitely happening to the folks who modified theirs by putting a stronger troller on it like I did. I think that entire section needs a reinforcement plate whether it be aluminum plate, or king starboard or something on it to create a sort of sandwich on the aluminum to prevent flexing. Even then, there's no guarantee it may not happen again.

In your opinion, what do you think caused the damage?

Not too bad actually. Naturally, any mod V hull with a pad does nowhere near as good as a job as a deep V, but as long as you keep the nose up in the big waves and keep on the throttle, you will be fine. If you're looking for a dry ride in waves though, a bass boat in general is not the one to get.

2 stroke is a different animal than the 4 stroke. What pitch prop are you currently using?

10.5x13p

I need more context to be able to help you. You said you are thinking of stepping up to a 10.5x13 but when I asked you, you said you are currently using a 10.5x13... so which one is it actually? Also, what RPM are you at, and is your rig newer, older? The tach could be off. Also are you using GPS to confirm those speeds or the speedometer on the boat?

@extremeboating7347 sorry about that, I swapped to a10.5x13p but have not tested it out yet. Also I didn't consider a 2stroke to a 4stroke as well! Rookie mistake on my end. It's an older Mercury 99 60hp 2 stroke.

Going to have to give it a try then. I won't know what it runs to given I don't know what your previous prop was or what RPM it was at.

You should have no problem planning out with a 40 on a BTC Heritage with a 40. That motor is not the bigfoot CT so you cannot do the conversion on it unfortunately. How much weight are you normally carrying on your rig?

No. Per the manufacturer, between JP and motor.

You either have a seized cable, or a bad manual steering assembly at the console. I would disconnect the cable at the console and try to turn it. If it still does not, the entire assembly is defective and you'll need to replace it.

Nice. Congratulations on your pending purchase/ pick up! The rear roller guides are actually quite convenient and make loading so much easier I've found. To be honest with you it came this way direct from Karavan so I don't actually know what brand they used but I'm sure it shouldn't be too hard to find.

Have them perform a cylinder leakage test across the cylinders. It almost sounds like you have a blown power head gasket.

Thanks for the response. They just called and said it was a faulty thermostat. I asked if they checked anything else and they did not and said all else seemed find aside from the thermostat sticking open. I’ll ocean run it next weekend to see I suppose. They replaced the thermostat and said it runs normal now…

@@outdoor_alaska4790 excellent! I'm glad it wasn't anything big, and thermostats can fail anytime so I'm inclined to believe that it was indeed your issue.

I just answered this question 2 or 3 days ago so the following is a copy/ paste of what I wrote the other day: Every rig is different so I can recommend you a 15 pitch Vengeance or a 14 pitch Trophy Plus (both stainless) but the jury is out if your hull was built like mine was. If you find a 60HP PCM that is single plug 2013 or 2014 and up it will work as Mercury is still using the same Motohawk ECM70 that they were in 2020. Nothing has changed as of current and I know that because my 2024 ProXS is using the same single plug PCM that the 50's and 60's do. If you buy a brand new one you will be good to go as well, just plug it in and go. The only thing it will do is reset your hours.

The motor toter/ transom saver debate is one that is a never ending one. I lean towards motor toter side because a transom saver won't fit reliably on this trailer anyway. Road shock transmittance from trailer to motor and transom is a factor to take into consideration as well when you are talking about the transom saver equipped rigs. No play here. 100% DV, but a lot of the times I need to be selective when and how I go fishing because I'm so acute in my injuries that I change from one day to the next. Flare ups happen on a hourly basis sometimes, and I'm all over the place as far as reliability goes. Some days I'm down for the count entirely, it sucks. I've had to learn to modify how and what activities I do when I do them and to pace myself a lot. Needless to say I'm not a reliable person as far as maintaining and keeping a solid work hour job or even a part time job at this point.

@@extremeboating7347 thank you for serving. I'm 57 and getting rerated because of sever decline. I lost all my right shoulder muscle mass and auxillary nerve and over use my left arm causing me to hunch up and compensate for pain causing my left hand to go numb. VA has me in therapy. Most Boat shops will tell you that the transome save is a must puts the stress on the trailer. I run both on my Glass boat. Short hauls under 5 miles I will run just the motor toter.

@@rickvann3489 oh god. You sound like you are in pretty bad shape. Well deserving of over 40% I'll tell you that for sure. Thank you for your service as well! I went through my initial rating with the VA back about 8 years ago and they didn't check me out thoroughly enough the first time, so I continued going about my life and serving as well. It took me less than a year after reenlistment to hit the brick wall that I did and continue to now and after advocating for myself hard and demanding to get checked out correctly what they found made my combined total rating go up from 20% all the way up to 100%. Technically speaking I'm currently sitting at a 220% rating but you can't go over 100% so that's where I stand now. I don't walk or carry myself the same way I used to anymore and move about my life at a much slower pace. Just a lot of things going on with me now and a huge majority of it is neurological/ physiological. Just keep on your path and take care of yourself. It's a daily battle and I understand what kind of toll it takes on you mentally. Be compassionate and give yourself some grace. There is more to you as a person and a lot you have to offer beyond just your physical capabilities/ lack thereof.

I do not know how long or how well that will work out for you. The 1.0L class and ECM70's that Mercury runs operate off a speed density style tune. They are not capable of compensating for the extra air you add by modifying or removing the restrictor. What you did introduced a lean condition and the PCM is not capable of compensating for that extra airflow by adding the extra fuel needed to make the air fuel ratio correct. If you haven't engaged Guardian mode already due to this condition you may soon. I'd be surprised if it didn't ever give you a problem either soon, or down the road.

Every rig is different so I can recommend you a 15 pitch Vengeance or a 14 pitch Trophy Plus (both stainless) but the jury is out if your hull was built like mine was. As far as the PCM itself if you find a 60HP PCM that is single plug 2013 or 2014 and up it will work as Mercury is still using the same Motohawk ECM70 that they were in 2020. Nothing has changed as of current and I know that because my 2024 ProXS is using the same single plug PCM that the 50's and 60's do. If you buy a brand new one you will be good to go as well, just plug it in and go. The only thing it will do is reset your hours.

Which diameter for the prop?

The diameter is somewhat redundant as it varies from mfr to mfr. A lot of your pitch will also depend on whether or not you have a jackplate or not as that raises RPM as well so that may change the potential of you being able to run a larger pitch or not.

No jackplate for me.

@LSCHLEGS get one. It's a game changer without a doubt. Add some 2 degree transom wedges to the jackplate before you mount the motor 🤌 4- 4.5 second holeshot with a 3 blade. I have the two degree wedges left over from my Classic XL if you want them. Let me know if you do and we can work that out over email. Nice GTO by the way. I used to own one and now have a Camaro ZL1.

Of course I did. As if there is any other way to do it! 🤣 Makes you want a 8 Series Stinger now doesn't it? 😁

Oh man at the time I think it was 6150 on a 14 pitch Trophy Sport from what I remember. It was higher in the RPM range for sure.

What diameter ​@@extremeboating7347

You typically need to prime for a while AND I MEAN A WHILE on initial pump up. I would have that issue as well but I would just have to pump a lot to the point of fatigue and then after that I would not have a problem again.

What kind of water pressure are you getting at idle and what happens when you try to give it any sort of throttle? A stream is never an indicator of correct water pressure. I have never seen a long beep before so this is going to require some patience and maybe even some testing on your part if we are going to try to solve this together. I have a 115HP now which is on the same engine block as a 75 so this is a good one for the both of us.

@@extremeboating7347 I don’t know the water pressure since I don’t have a gauge or any tool to measure it. If I can have my boat back from the dealer. I’m thinking of buying the Mercury Vessel View monitor. When I first heard the beep I put the throttle to neutral and it stopped. After 2-3 minutes, I came back home with medium to almost WOT without any alarm. After 10 minutes, I slowed down at 1000 rpm and the alarm went off again. If it wasn’t from that alarm I would say that the engine runs great.

That's weird. I know that vesselview records long term stuff and stores it so it is really useful. I almost wonder if you are having some sort of throttle body synchronization issue. Just know that water pressure is not recorded to vesselview unless you have a digital water pressure sensor installed so you'll either need to install a manual one or a digital one prior to getting that info.

@@extremeboating7347 thanks for your input. The dealer talked about a lift pump issue of some sort. I asked them to stop investigating for the weekend in order to stop the bill from running. I might go get my boat back before getting ruined. Thanks again and I’ll keep you posted.

@michellefebvre3348 it may very well be a fuel issue. Mercury in general is known to use cheap fuel pumps so it may be worth hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to it to take a look at idle pressures. You will need muffs or some sort of way of running the outboard while the gauge is hooked up to it.

Get you a hydraulic 6" jackplate for it and you'll see a notable difference in both RPM and speed as well. You should gain 150 on the top end and you may even be able to turn a 14 pitch stainless Vengeance. Speed increase will be notable!

@@extremeboating7347 Oh crap! You got the wheels turning again! I'm actually thinking of going to a 4 blade 13 Pitch Mercury Spitfire Elite Aluminum for better holeshot. I've tried stainless in the past on these small motors and haven't had much luck. Dropped a lot of RPM and no significant gains. I am going to run with this for now but knowing how I roll I will be experimenting in no time! Thanks for all the legit education!

Greasing all the fittings was one of the first things I said that I tried in the video (at least I'm pretty sure I did). I also said it in the comments section to others. No amount of grease in those areas was going to take care of the issue.

I have looked at other Mercury engines and they have some sort of screening there to keep from sucking up excessive weeds and such. I guess if you look at it from one point of view or another either one is an issue, with or without screening.

You get performance gains but it goes into guardian without warning above 5000 RPM most of the time. The PCM uses speed density tuning (fixed airflow) and is not capable of adjusting itself like a vehicle PCM is capable of doing.

I do not know the size of your engine block so I cannot say in certainty that you can or cannot do this.

3 cylinder 747cc is all I know thank you

Oh yeah that won't work for a conversion mod. It may work for a reflash though and I know those older PCM's can be flashed.

Thank you so much for quick reply’s, you’re the man!

Lowe themselves are less than helpful when they say contact the dealer for those measurements. As for the measurements when it was in straight from the factory form it was 20'7". After I was finished with my modifications to the way it sat on the trailer and with the 6" jackplate that I have on it I got a final resting measurement of 20'4". Without that jackplate on there the boat on the trailer sits at 19'10" tongue folded, motor turned to the side and everything.

@@extremeboating7347 great! Thanks. I have a 20 ft deep garage so will just have to tilt it slightly with a jackplate. Thanks again. Yeah, there was no way to get ahold of them directly and a dealer was telling me 22.5. I was like dude that has to be a super long trailer where it folds.

Yeah no they definitely took the measurements wrong for sure. If and when the time comes for you getting one join my group and I'll send you space saving tips that you can do both on the rig and the trailer to make the most of it.

@@extremeboating7347 Thanks! I am a little surprised that they are still using wood in the construction

They're not at all. Where did you read that?

I see the computer specs are different than the 60. They resemble that to the equivalent of the ProXS series lineup computers which raise the revving RPM to 6300 which should offer a small boost in power. You CAN rev the RPM on the standard 60 PCM to 6300 without issue just so you know.

I did not. The wire was and is capable of running both units as the max power draw is 1.5 amps (it might have been 2.3 maybe) and the fuse size is rated for up to 3 amps.

@@extremeboating7347 ok thanks, about to install a garmin 95sv at the console so wasn’t sure if I should increase the wire gauge for the power cord from the battery to the unit or not.

Yeah you're good to go man.

ruclips.net/video/PQXFP81cOxg/видео.html

I was able to trim up the Ballistic prop up a little further compared to the Tempest. That being said I also noticed that the prop didn't seem to like being lifted as high as the Tempest (by about .25") vertically on jackplate, so it's similar in performance in lifting the bow like the Tempest does and actually lifts greater than it does, but it likes to be run down a touch lower in the water similar to a Fury propeller.

I wouldn't know. Need more information in order to help you out. Current RPM current speed and current prop size, unless you don't have those?

Yes and no. It is a great troller for offshore applications, but for inshore rigs that typically see weeds, tulies and other types of foliage in the water I wasn't a fan of how slow it would move and turn despite being hooked up to a lithium battery. The spot lock on it though... 👌 On point.

Thanks. That’s awesome. I just got one for the spot lock. I haven’t even installed it yet.

Thank you brother! My advice to you before you set your mind on any boat whether this one or Xpress would be to really do some brush up on your local dealers and determine which offer a wider support network for warranty claims, service, etc. Unless you do all your own work like I do. There is no sense in buying a boat that will require travel of over 250 miles (just an example) to your closest authorized dealer just to get warranty work done on it. I have several Lowe dealers in my area, but I don't even bother unless it comes to major, major work being done. Most of the time I just call them to get information about certain things I may be working on, specs, or diagrams. Also make sure that whatever you go with doesn't have any major defect issues (cracking transoms, terrible hull QA issues etc) I don't know enough about Xpress to say one way or the other but I do know Vexus had issues with their transoms for quite a long time. Still might. Best of luck brother. And when you get a new rig welcome to the bass boat crew. 😃

It was the first livewell conversion job I ever did but I had every single intention on making it as clean and professional as I could. Thanks for the kudos brother!

You cannot. I've covered that in another video with a few others. The 3 cylinders are not capable of this mod unless the engine block is a 996cc. Most of them if not all of that year are 737cc.

I have not done enough research to be able to determine if that conversion is valid on 3 cylinder models.

The screws are buried inside the carpet. They are just sheetmetal screws but you need to make sure you have very positive engagement on them to avoid stripping them. It should be 3 of them and then there are three at the at the bottom of the panel as well if you want to remove the panel entirely. I just scooted it over and avoided the three bottoms. The lip at the side of the console slightly interferes, but you can muscle it in and out with enough perseverance. Lol.

That's a great question actually. I have no idea, but if it's a critical measurement for you I'd contact a local dealer to you and have them measure that for you.

@@extremeboating7347 Why don’t you just measure it?

I just did this recently for someone, so I'll pass on the knowledge here: 103 3/4" is the total width measurement at the back with the poles on. Each pole measures 3 3/4" so about 95.5 or 96" if you take them off to store the rig is what your package width would be.

Lack of proper reinforcement up front from the factory coupled with mounting points on a troller that is not designed to be on this style bow in the first place. It's not a speed issue, but hard water sure doesn't help the issue either.

That 40 HP is probably sitting on a different engine block than the 50/60 engines so your 40 may be 737cc and the 50/60's are 1.0L. you may be topped out on power for your engine block size.

I feel like this boat is in a totally different build class than the 175TXW. You definitely get a lot more boat, but the price ultimately does reflect that as well.

That's correct. In that video I had a Terrova installed and then switched over to the Garmin Force for a short while before I sold my rig. I got the foot pedal pan from Amazon if I remember correctly for like $50 at the time. It was a really well made one.

@@extremeboating7347 I think I know which pan that is on Amazon. Thanks!