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Great explanation. I appreciate your opinion.

I believe there is a high torque version of that socket. I had a royal pain to get the proper torque on the outter nut. I believe it was over 200lbs. but it’s been a while. You should take the 5 nuts off of the spindle and whack it loose with a mallet and clean out and grease the needle bearing on the inside of the spindle. It rides on the axle and always gets neglected because it can be a pain to get the spindle off. Especially in rusty areas.

does that freeze during the winter?

Thanks

Where do you get a new replacement

Thank you for the video. Came apart as I expected. But it was nice to have a video to reference. 97 f250 with a dana 60 swap.

Great video. Just need the video finishing the job with the bearings being replaced

This video is just what I needed to refresh my memory on how these things come apart. At about seven minutes in, the question about what the difference is between the two nuts? They are nearly identical, except: one has that little nub for the lock spacer (the one with all those holes in it) and one doesn't have that nub. It's super important to put them in the right order when re-assembling. The inner nut keeps the hub and bearings all together and in the right preload, the lock spacer keeps the inner nut from turning and changing the preload (or simply spinning off), and the outer nut keeps the lock ring locked to the inner nut. Then everything else goes in against the outer nut. word of advice: a set of picks is a great option to get that lock spacer out. If you know how to use them right (I'm not very good, but I have done it) you can get the outer snap ring out with picks, too. Maybe even the inner snap ring, though I don't think I've ever successfully done that.

Best video on these years hub removal. And I watched them all. Thanks! Strange thing on mine was that I had the spring between the locking hub and that first ring you encountered - where yours was located behind that ring... Hubs locked up fine anyway.

Liked the video, even though the year of pickup is different. I also liked the puppy pad for laying parts out, great idea. I have a pdf copy of the 1996 Ford Technical Manual for Trucks (150, 250, 350). See what I can do to make available to folks.

awesome work friend; i have a 94 f350 4x4 dually and i hope this procedure is the same; is it?

Use two of the screws that hold the locking cap on and screw them into the larger gear.comes out so easy

Thank you, this reduced the stress and made working enjoyable

Thanks you. Very helpful

You see, IDIOTS like this deeply selfish loser get on RUclips & video themselves tearing something usually mechanical apart, and getting the entire process INCORRECT ! In the name of trying to look important and/or feel like they are somebody ! When in reality they're complete 100% LOSERS WHO HAVE ABSOLUTELY NO BUSINESS ON RUclips WHATSOEVER ! So when some other innocent RUclips viewer who really needs the correct answers (And correct methods and/or approaches) to something usually mechanical, like replacing some very crucial & heavy-duty parts such as on a 1-Ton F350 PS diesel (We're not talking about changing out a fucking shock-absorber and/or a door-handle) they get it all FUCKED-UP & WRONG because of assholes like this fucking complete idiot who thinks he's a legend in his own pea sized brain, attempts something mechanical that he has absolutely NO BUSINESS ATTEMPTING ! As a matter of fact.....when God was handing out brains and yelled, "Brains here".....this loser thought he said "The Train is here", and this loser went & got on the fuckin' train instead of getting his BRAIN ! RUclips use to be such an awesome "Go to" knowledgeable & experience based place to get your correct answers, until these fucking deeply selfish assholes arrived & are now turning it into a HUGE JOKE !!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the video! What is the torque specs for replacing the hub?

Thanks. This definitely helped. I have the ford shop Manuel’s, but it always helps to see someone do it

I know this is an older video I was wondering what the screw is to hold in the first gear

Thank you!

Tray Russell; At around 7:50 you were talking about how the tapered bearing wants to fall out, well mine did without me knowing it would so I have no idea how to put it back in. I was meticulous about the order of each piece so this is throwing me off. So it just goes back in first before all of the other washers? Tapered side goes in facing vehicle or facing me? Thank you so much!!!!!

Great work sir 👍👍👍

What size is the socket!

Thanks for this!

Once you get this far, you need to take the bolts off that hold the spindle and remove it to clean and grease the spindle bearing. These are often over looked by DIY people.this bearing is very important.

I’m having some issues with mine. What brake calipers do you have.? I’ve had to return six pairs already because they don’t fit. Any information would really help? Thanks again for the video!!!

THERE IS A DIFFERENCE BETWEEN THE LOCKING NUTS!! one of them has a little pin and goes in first facing out (towards you) that pin then locks into the middle spacer (into one of the holes) you can easily miss it and it won't tighten right. Hopefully this helps someone.

Wow, what a complete headache for what could be an hour job with digging apart the whole hub. No other way to get just the rotor off huh?

Does anyone know where I can buy the hub at

Similar to the Dana 44

You say hobbyist alot for a guy that borrowed tools from your mechanic .

Good

No need to take the lockout assembly apart 1.31 Pulls out as one pc. I just changed a rotor w/o doing that part.

Sir you just made my day, I too have that manual but I was still confused on the order for getting everything out. I've been looking for a video like this for a bit!

great job, it's apart, the only thing that warrants a comment is the 2 nuts that hold it all together you have the special socket for are not the same at all, the first outer one is a straight nut, the inner one has a tit sticking out that locks into one of the holes in the washer between them. when putting it back together ( the trickier part ) you need to tighten the inner nut with the tit out while turning the wheel to set it to where it can no longer has any play and then snug it, then back off some and carefully re tighten to a very slight torque, then install the washer as you noted it will only go on lining up the big notch but must have the tit coming exactly through one of the holes as well so may need to play with the nut to effect that, this is what locks the hubs adjusting nut then the second nut goes on as tight as you can get it which locks it all together at the exact right place, I always set up my hubs on the tighter side of caution you do not want any play, then feel them as I drive to be sure they are cool

Your video is labeled incorrectly. You did not remove your spindle. You removed your hub and rotor.