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I've been thinking on this. I don't know if I need to reshoot or edit this one. It's not as simple as dimensions. I need to walk through how you figure it out for your personal set of circumstances, design idea and materials.

It was a cool discovery for me. I've wanted to share it with others. Do you know more of the history of this well?

That's the easiest way to address this. I need to update this.

I appreciate the feedback. The top is a dual use bottom board OR top. I was endeavoring to eliminate different pieces of equipment. As you'll notice, the side boards are a little longer in case you make a different box style a touch longer. As you look at this design, it's a very basic design, not built for aesthetics but for functionality. The bees don't care how it looks. All they care is if it keeps water off their heads/brood. You can put on lids made with big cracks in them and the bees don't care, they just fill them in with propolis to their liking. The idea behind this entire video was not for the most attractive build, but for one that got the job done with a minimum of investment in tools and materials.

This is a quick and dirty top. If you want, paint it.

For this instance, it was a serious leak that was unmistakable

@@jeremymonroe3410 yeah my right side has been leaking it's staying inside the boot it's not dripping on the driveway apparently it'll get worse in time

@@derekwilson8011 I hope some of the things I encountered here helps you tackle the project. It isn't too difficult, and you have a wonderful vehicle.

@@jeremymonroe3410 no I'm over it car is a money pit it's for sale or it's going to the junkyard hate to see it go but

This please 🙏🏽 ❤

I hear you. I need to do that. I'll do an update.

Thank you. I hope it helps. You know, you can also do a top bar in this without a full frame if you have to for a while. Then you can add frames as you like. Just keep the top bars about 1" wide and leave them at about 1-3/8" to 1-1/2" on centers and it will be compatible.

Use a speed square on the inside. This is a quick and dirty. It can be a touch out of square. I'm trying to make this as simple as possible for folks to knock them together quick and easy. They won't last as long as good wood, but lets you get a house quick and cheap and try different configurations without a huge upfront investment. Thanks for your comment.

Also, as noted in the vid, when you add that handle/frame stop on the front and back, if all your cuts are square and you flush everything well, they work to self-square themselves.

You're welcome, Serg. I was surprised I couldn't find more on it when we tackled the issue. I just wanted to help others w their awesome First Gen CRV's.

find a good used lowerish mileage one from junkyard or what ever. remans and after market ones ive heard can have issues... cant go wrong with an original part

Ffrankly, we went w an off brand off Amazon. It has held up well.

All right I appreciate the info hitting the junkyard tomorrow anybody ever had problems with aligning a rear wheels on a 97 Honda CRV I bought aftermarket Tow and Camber arms should I install both of them or just camber arms

@@Michal_S0L responding to your comment about finding a lower mileage CRV in the junkyard I've rarely found a low mileage CRV in a junkyard still don't know what kind of problem you're getting into

yea same 200k minimum on these things in the junkyards lmao, i think an offbrand is the better bet compared to wasting to searching, especially if your junkyards are far like me. ​@derekwilson8011

Every hive is going to be different. I will address the priniciples of how to determine this.

That is what I’m feeling when going over gravel road or icy roads. Was feeling it in the tight was but lower and upper control arms fixed that on the highway but today on gravel road felt like it was floating not sure if my tires are to wide

My 97 has 235,000 on it no leaks out of the rack and pinion car still floats all over the road have new upper and lower control arms and ball joints haven't put those in yet inner tie rod look good car shakes slightly at 55 miles an hour and floats all over the road could be tired I know they lineman slightly out anybody else had a problem with these

He did the video AFTER he did the job. I just did one yesterday at a shop. Book time is just under 5 hours. Thats using a lift. If you are on the ground. Add at least one hour. At least he tried to help. If you need info on how to do it let me know.

Useless video

Its not a great video, but everything he is saying is true. He did the cideo after he did the job. At least there is some good references.

LOL, true Adric. We had already completed it and I realized I might have some info that could help others. I was not looking to produce an entertainment vid. I didn't even have a tripod. But my goal was to correct technical errors I had found in the pitifully lacking specific info and help folks avoid pitfalls we ran into. If you want, I can refund what you paid for the vid. 😉 But I do hope you got your repair done without too much trouble.

Usually hit a bump and car will wonder if to the side

And you're driving a car you turn the wheel left and right really quick and it feels spongy and floaties is that a sign that it's bad or going bad

Sorry I also forgot to add I have a 97 Honda CRV to having floating steering problems

The most common problem with racks is the they leak on either (or both) end(s). Squeeze the dust boot or just inspect it for seepage of fluid.

@@JohnSmith-fb2np yeah it's coming out on passenger side very lightly just means in time it will get worse

Exactly. Quick and dirty, not great craftsmanship. This is so a person can make a cheap, fast version to get started or try a different size. Or if a person doesn't have lots of skills or tools.

If it been leaking long time gears are probably worn

Joseph, I'm new at seeing comments on past videos. When it comes to a Langstroth, using 3/4" material the outside should be 19-7/8" long, meaning the inside will be 18-1/8". What I have found in personal experience since making this video is that you're better off to just try and keep all those interior measurements close to the same. So your outside (if you're using 1/2" ply) will be 19-1/8". That's not great for stacking on other boxes. So I like to cut an additional piece of 1/2" ply and attach to the front and back exterior at the bottom, so it sits on tops of the other boxes easier and seals things up. No, telescoping lids might not fit it, but I have gone away from them. Plus this is kind of a get you by idea until you decide if this is the type box you want and what you're going to do on lids. Hope that helps.

When I look at your measurements, I thank God for the metric system.

@@benilang5391 I can understand that. I've lived life using it in construction so that it doesn't bother me, but it wouldn't bother me either to use metric.

Thank you for the compliment. Be sure and work on the measurements for your equipment. I had a couple a little off, but you always just measure what you have and what you want to mate up with. Happy beekeeping!