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like to see the dro AND the mill, tanks for showing this.

I have a DRO on a maunal Bridgeport and don't have any experience with all the fancy functions that it has. It would have been nice if you would have shown the movements with the hand cranks and the DRO for us DRO Dummies.

Thank you so much. Just installed my first DRO on the lathe and I have no idea on to how to use it. I’m sure this video is going to be very helpful.

Hi Kevin, hoping to try building one of these models, I cannot see the dimension for the width of the Crank shaft on the drawings?? Am i missing something?? (PS great build mate, ) Thanks Gary

Great information on building this engine. In Part 3, I did not see if you cut the water cavity in the engine block. Did you use the same boring bar technique as you did in Part 4 to machine the water jacket? Vic

Greetings from one Kevin to another! Enjoying the series immensely! Just thought I should ask, what is the OD and length of the 4140 material that you are using for the tool parts? Thanks in advance, and keep up the great content! Be well.

Nice setup and machine. I used marking blue, a grinder and belt sander with the diablo red sandpaper+ alot of patience and noise.

Would love to know where you got the instruction and parts breakdown manuals as I have a near identical machine te TIDA 4a and the documentation is spartan to say the least.

Love that trick of leaving the material before the thread at the minor diameter for thread depth!

If you made it longer you could have closed your door !

need piston rings for my hit and miss with 1.24 piston

Hi Thanks for the great video - just one question at what point do you manually find the start point/ center (approx 5.08 in the video) Is this before programming the console or after ? Cheers

Nice work. Good setup. Jobs like this you always have to get creative. Have a great day.

G'day mate what size is motor on this machine? And the rpms cheers Kevin 😊

Nice work

Part one

Do you have a drawing?

Great series Kevin. I have watched it quite a few times to pluck up the courage to try this build. If you are still checking comments, could you tell me how you chamfered the guides, did you use a 90 degree countersink or cut them at 45 degrees on the lathe with the compound.?

With all due respect, I don't see a need for this process. You need a factory made half inch gauge pin that has a hole in the center. The hole must be perfect dead center. Place the gauge pin in your chuck. Then place an accurate dead center in your tailstock. Next align your tailstock into the gauge pin. When the dead center enters the hole in the gauge pin correctly your tailstock should be in perfect alignment. Sincerely Robert

Just come across your site and most impressed by your skills and working methods. I have been unable to find where to download the original drawings and feel the designers notes thereon may help. Are you able to point me in the right direction please?

I have the same lathe but I need to make change gears but I don't the specs to buy the right cutter. (module, dp, pressure angle etc)

Hi. Very clever thing to do. But I have a suggestion to improve it moore. Cut a grove with a slitting tool between the four bolts and nuts. Then when you are tighten ten bolts the meet the shaft in the first place the when tighten moore the wall of the spider will engage with sindle wall. It will infact act as a reversed collet. Just a suggestion to improve from John Eriksson in Sweden.

Assuming the cutter is progressing in a clockwise direction, the cut is climbing, which might not be the best way to carry our this function.

With all due respect.... Jolly Good Workshop!!!!!!!! I'm in love. Cheers from the U.S. 3rd House on the Right.

Nice. What vehicle was it off?

it is important that the ruler is parallel to the table travel

so how do you dial 90 degrees from that?

Hi Kevin. They turned out well. Noticed you have not done any video's lately. Hope you are OK. Steve.

what about height of the tailstock

I was hoping to see some actual headstock adjustment. You have the exact same lathe that I have (albeit a different brand). I’m about to do the same but was unsure of the best way to adjust it.

I have a similar bench mill as the one you have in this video. I bought the 3 axis DRO and was wondering how I would attach the Z axis to the mill, didn't want it on the whole head moving up and down, but wanted it on the quill. Your video helped me figure out a contraption to get it hooked up. Thank you very much for sharing this, it really made my life easier today.

I have the Jet version of your lathe, I will be installing a dro from DRO Pros soon. Separate question, are you threading in metric or imperial on your lathe? I will be machineing a collet chuck soon and will need to thread in metric. Any suggestion for setting the lathe for this? Your videos are very good Thank you Mel, North Carolina

Great video. Following this build prior to me making a slightly different version but basically the same. E-mail sent to you re-stickers. Subbed too. Regards. Steve.

I got the plans thank you. I was wondering if it could have springs in it to keep it centered so that it doesn't have to be guided into the hole by hand. the reason I want that is because I want to use it in my cnc lathe auto tool changer turret and have it not crash on the part face but actually go into the hole without the assistance of guiding it in by hand. do you think the spring pressure could be soft enough to just hold the floating reamer on center; but not allow it to affect the free-floating ability?

Thanks a bunch man. I'm new to machining at home and it's easy to change something and not realize the effects it will have on the rest of the machine. I tore my lathe apart and replaced some braces underneath the headstock with thicker ones. Then I'm wondering why my tailstock is sitting proud and couldn't think of how to adjust it. Now I see my error so thank you.

Is this done by a manual milling

Greetings from Argentina, a new subscriber here ! Great videos !!!

Finally got myself a DRO and have just finished installing it, this 2 part series has been very helpful thank you

Do you have a 3D model of this attachment?

Nice channel and like the sticker swap... cool engraving nice job on the anodized material... although the power coat looked better for sure...👍

Glad someone else's mill sounds as bad as mine

That seems to work perfectly fine. Nice job. You have an easy to use lathe now :)

Nice work !!

That should make it easier for you Kevin, it'll beat compensating for backlash. Looks a good kit. Tony

I wish I could mount mine on the cross slide like that, very tidy. All my gib adjustment screws are on that side unfortunately.

Hello Kevin, Nice to see the job complete, well done. I am sure it will be a true asset to your machine. Take care. Paul,,

New sub. Good videos on the installation of the DRO/scales. I purchased DROs for my mill and lathe and that is the best thing I added to them. It makes machining so much easier. Unfortunately that was before I started making RUclips videos so I have no footage. Like you I purchased them from China as buying in NZ was 3X the price. Note that for the X axis on the lathe you can set it to read twice the travel. This is useful for turning to show how much is being removed. E.g. without this setting 0.5mm feed on the X axis will take 1.0mm of the diameter so it is easy to cut too much. Where are you located?

NICE KIT KEVIN

Gday Kevin, the dro is a great asset to the lathe, I hope to have one on mine someday, the amount of time you’ll save now will be amazing, thanks for sharing mate, cheers

That would be nice because the screw in my y axis is not standard. I do like your digital dial guage though, make a good Christmas present for my wife 😅🤣😅👍