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Yes, I actually just sold it a month or so ago as I'm selling of my equipment. I'd definitely buy another one if I started up a business again.

I don't think you'll find a better attachment for what you're doing. The clay can be pretty hard when it's fully dry but it will cut when it's got a little moisture in it. As far as the crown, you can cut it pretty quickly if you have the power and traction. If you drop the side with the hydraulics, it will really move to material over to the right.

@@toddv9210 Thank you, we will probably invest in one pretty soon. Thanks for the video. I saw one on a three point hitch set up with a hydraulic top link, that may be handy.

It is, I heard somewhere that they are now building them with a crossbar but I'm not sure if that's true or not.

That is the Givi Airflow setup. I ended up taking it off because it's to big for doing offroad stuff but it was excellent at getting the wind and noise off of you.

@@toddv9210 thank you ! Have you found something more suitable for offroad but still protecting against wind noise ? Or is it chasing a unicorn?

Surprisingly no, wouldn't make a difference though because I'm not monitized.

@@toddv9210 you should make more videos of cutting grass. People like to watch this kind of stuffs... like me. Keep trying you’ll get more subscribers.

It's the Perun moto rack. It's a pretty nice setup

They've never gotten in the way off-road. As far as rear footpegs, I haven't tried to put them back on because I don't think I'll ever be two up on that bike.

The racks are 19.5 inches, the bags are 35 inches and the handlebars are 36.5 inches. So the bag setup is 1.5 inches or about 45mm skinnier than the handlebars.

It is a great all around bikeKTM nailed it as far ss finding a balance for on and off road and it's got the "it factor" that calls to you from the garage!

So far they seem pretty solid. They are pretty stiff when pushed on and I've dropped the bike a couple good times on them with no damage. I doubt they are as strong as racks that have them but I'm not sure that it would ever be an issue in anything but a bad crash.

I have the same rack and bags. The left side forward upper hook can be bent a little then it's easier to mount the left side bag.

They help a good bit to smooth out humps and also to prevent the cutting edge from digging in when carrying a lot of material.

Sorry, RUclips no longer notifies me of replies for some reason. I ran a mower in an open cab machine and while it can be done in a way to minimize risk, keeping the rear of the mower near the ground, you will still have ricochets on occasion. After a few close calls with debris that could have caused real injuries I gave it up. IMO a door is a requirement, it's just not worth it.

it's a 7' model and yes it does great for crowning roads. I didn't need to tilt here because I was spreading the dirt from the center but it will quickly crown a road.

They hold up amazingly well.

If you cut the larger part of the tree into lengths that fit under the deck they are easier to reprocess. When a piece of wood that is larger than the deck ends up perpendicular to the machine the blades can't easily get to it. It might not make a lot of sense but if you are after a decent finish this is the most efficient way to do it by far.. You can just run the stuff over if you just want to get it down but it won't look very good afterward and it takes a lot longer to go back and try to chop it all up when it's laying at all different angles.

why

Wow, salty

I've never had any wrap up in the mower, it just spits it out, even wire mesh fence has always just spit out.

It would, you'd probably have two choices on the motor. Mine puts out 30GHP@3500PSI in high flow. I already had the mower before I bought this machine, think it's rated for 21-28GPH. If I could do it over I would have went with the slightly larger motor so it would spool back up quicker even if I gave up a few RPMs. Diamond can help you out if you give them a call.

I ended up buying the diamond mower (gen 2) and I coudnt be happier. Not that they needed it, but they really beefed them up this year. The new motor and shaft looks monstrous compared to the model you have in this video. I am running on my Kubota 75svl high flow(29 or 30 gpm). I Can go through thick 3 inch under brush like im mowing grass. I also cant believe how durable the blades are(and only $176 to replace is awesome). I have about 30hrs on it now and have hit many many rocks and the blades look like they have about 2hrs on them. Its honestly remarkable.Very impressed. I also would have liked to have gone with a 95hp machine but they are just so damn big. I use my skid steer on the farm and need to be able to get in and out of buildings so I opted for the 75hp machine

Yea the blades hold up incredibly well until you wear through the hardness then the dull quickly.

Yes, also how it handles larger material especially when the blades get a little dull on the corners.

I do

Todd V darrellinkster@gmail.com

Can u email me about it please?

@@darrellinkster7385 sorry, RUclips has stopped giving me notifications for replies some reason. It's sold

@@toddv9210 ya I figured. Thanks. I built one.

Heavy Equipment I have not run one of the dirct drive CID mowers. I had a CID mowers and the weakness of one of them compared to Diamond is the design. The deck has dead spots that allow material to escape reprocessing and the blades are to short and break away too easily. Blade kits are also cheapr for the Diamond. CID mowers are not built as heavily as the Diamond so I would expect a shorter service life. Diamond also offers great support if you need it.

I agree with Todd. The CID is just not designed to hang with this diamond. Honestly I thing the diamond mower might be able to mulch up the CID mower. It is seriously that impressive

No, have really only had one and I'm not sure what I ran over but I could put two fingers through the hole. I'll pick up a nail every now and then but nothing a plug won't fix and only had the one flat.

It's less expensive to run and buy and also is lighter and has a lower hydraulic power requirement so it will run on smaller machines.

I am very happy with it. I would go with the smooth cutting edge in front unless you are doing exclusively stone though because things like to get stuck in the serrated edge and you have to stop to clear it. I am also glad I bought it wider than the machine. it helps with doing the edges up close to things.

Todd V do you do more dirt with it then? I am looking to do a horse pasture first with it. After that it would be mostly gravel driveways.

I do use it in dirt more than in gravel.

Thank you for your replies. I decided to purchase one. Can't wait to try it out.

Congrats! I think you'll really like it.

I never have, it will suck some stuff up there but it's always been able to grind it up and spit it out. I think that's due to the flywheel design and there is a wedge up there prevents material from getting into the back of the deck above the flywheel. I had a CID mower before this one and stuff would get stuck in it from time to time but never on the Diamond. I've been running this one for about 2 years without issue.

Interesting. The engineers must have figured that problem out and solved it. I just know its a nut roll to get things in-stuck or in-wrapped from above the cutter on bush hogs and disk flail mowers. Well goo. How often do you sharpen your teeth? And how long does it typically take to sharpen the full set? I run a drum mulcher, and I'm curious about the maintenance time on the Diamonds. They looks like they mulch up material very quickly, so I like to keep my options open.

When they are new they can go quite a while before sharpening, maybe the 1st 40-50 hours they are good to go. After you start sharpening them the hardness starts to go away, I think they are only hard on the surface. After that it really depends, normally every day or two I touch them up so they don't get to far out of shape. When sharpening the important things is not so much putting a great edge on them but making sure they are cut straight to the bottom edge or it won't cut stumps flush as easily. It may take 30 minutes with a 4.5 inch grinder and I have been getting about 200 hours on a set. A new set with hardware is a hair over 200 bucks so not expensive to run. As far as processing the material, it's important to cut the larger stuff into 12-18" long chunks so that it breaks up easier once it's on the ground, if not it doesn't mulch as easily.

Todd V Wow! A full set of replacement teeth for just over $200 bucks, and about 200 hour life is an incredibly low operating cost per tooth per hour. I use carbides on my drum. A new set of 30 teeth costs $2,370, and last an average of 300 hours in the type of cherty soil in my area. No maintenance time required on them though, which is a plus. That's interesting that it seems like your teeth last longer until you sharpen them for the first time. I don't know what you're using on your grinder, whether it's a stone wheel or a flapper wheel, but if you're losing hardness after they are heating up from sharpening it sounds like you may be using a stone wheel. Case hardened steel will loose it's hardness after heating, unless you immediately quench it. It's much better to use a flapper disk, like 50 or 60 grit, to sharpen cutting/impact edges, since flappers will not generate the high temperatures in the steel. Might be telling you something you already know, but just throwing it out there. Thanks for the teeth info. Keep up the good work and good luck with business.

Western SC but I believe I have a buyer lined up. If it doesn't work out I will let you know.

Thanks!

It's still for sale, the broker who was going to buy it lost his buyer.

It was worst at like 4-4.5K RPM but seemed to blur everything a little. I was on a 11 day trip and didn't have time to sort it before leaving. Glad it worked as well as it did with no tweaking.