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@@CriticoolHit nothing that fancy, no. Just enough to engage half the spring inside the welding handpiece.

Watchpower can be downloaded easy enough. If you have this error, you need to write to the company and ask for a fix. It's not something you can fix yourself unfortunately.

@@bedirhansar9464 I used a Sunkko 709 transformer welder.

@@991shom it's an eBay special, so no documentation. But simple 12 V in, 12 V out to motor (polarised) and 3 wired for the divider. I used a 10k NTC pot and 10kR resistor for the divider.

Check the video - over 70 amps for 15 seconds or so.

You have to contact MPP Solar directly. If you give them the serial code they can help you with the software. If the inverter was a copy of their product, they likely cannot help you.

I searched a lot here but I couldn't get it working. please help me sir

There is a big difference between the people here and you people, Sir, no one here has feelings. And you people have humanity😭 Good peoples are very few here😑😪😐

@@finchencyclopedia8872 You need to email support2@mppsolar.com and give them the serial code for your inverter. If they can help you they will.

Thanks a lot sir❤ I have sent a message now how do I get a reply?

0.15 mm nickel, 0.07 mm copper.

I did the exact same test but with a single piece of nickel, and the nickel glowed white hot at 30 amps. So the copper was definitely taking the bulk of the current.

@@jonescg can you help me build what is the right thickness of copper and nickel for a 100 amps of my 22S10P batteries. Thanks

@@jobmariano348 I used 0.15 mm nickel and 0.075 mm copper. This will pass 100 amps PER CELL for approximately 5 seconds. So potentially 1000 amps for your 22s pack. It will sag pretty bad at this rate, and the cells will start to get quite hot, but the conductors will manage such a high discharge rate.

Hasn't come back yet, thankfully.

Sure is. Sunkko 709 or something.

Sorry - each code is unique to the inverter. You need to contact MPP Solar and quote the inverter serial number and they will help you with the rest. My files and codes are of no use to you, unfortunately.

It's an Evo-Electric AFM140-4. Avid bought the company, but Phi-Power also makes an equivalent machine.

Just have to get the BMS and charger working and you can have a crack. I'll warn you - it's about as comfortable as a bear trap.

Based in Perth hills.

Main Contactor is a Gigavac GX14BAB (350 A, 1000 V) and the charge contactor is a Tyco 100 A, 1000 V unit. Fuse is a placeholder at this stage - it's rated to 400 A, but 660 V DC. Fully charged the bike is 700 V, but I think a 660 V rated fuse should be OK in the absence of a decent alternative.

@@jonescg Thanks. That Gigavac contactor is a little hard to get at the moment!

Have you got in touch with MPP Solar? They will ask for the serial number and in exchange, give you instructions to reflash the board. If it's not a genuine inverter, they won't be able to help.

@@jonescg Yeah, been in contact with them the whole time, they warranted the coms cards and the main board already.

Sounds like they're doing all they can. In the end I found the original serial comms cable to do the re-flash and it worked - the USB method clearly didn't work. @@mattporter7120

I'll be putting some more videos together, but the battery is a new long range pack for Voltron, the electric superbike. endless-sphere.com/sphere/threads/jonescgs-new-electric-racebike-build-thread.29916/page-55#post-1774976

@@jonescg Got it. I've been thinking along the same lines - long range, but for a treddly...at least it has two wheels.

Copper is 0.07 mm thick amd the nickel is 0.15 mm thick.

@@jonescg did you use pure nickel or nickel plated steel? thanks

@@ktestable pure nickel, but honestly I don't think it makes any difference. The purpose of the nickel is to provide enough resistance so the contact points get super hot and fuse the copper below to the cell can. The copper is carrying the current, while the nickel is just there for bonding support.

It does make a difference for the reason you explained, Resistance. The nickel coated strip will have less resistance and that will make a Better weld because of it.@@jonescg

​@@starcitizenmodding4436nickel coated steel actually has more resistance which is why it generates more heat

Possibly, or just use two layers of this thin stuff. I should highlight though that my final termination method uses a 0.9 mm busplate with holes where these tabs are soldered, so the full current will be over 200 A, but managed easily by the copper plates (simulated here using 2 mm thick lumps of copper). The tape was available from any electronics shop - this from Altronics, but I think Jaycar sells it too.

@@jonescg Thanks.

Thanks, yes, I got it to work using the laptop and some commands from MPP Solar.

How to fix the malfunction F90

@@حسينحسين-ل6ي1و I ended up using the supplied cable and a laptop and reset the inverter using commands provided by MPP Solar directly.

I have the same problem, can you please describe how to fix it? or instructions? Axpert Max TWIN 11KW

If you have the serial number you can send it to MPP Solar and they will give you instructions on how to reset the serial code and clear the error.

That's absolutely what happens 🙂. Use the right hand rule to determine the direction of force.

@@jonescg yes I remember something about some DC switches and circuit breakers, using permanent magnets to blow the arc, to help extinguish it, or to force it into a arc splitter.🤔😉

Laser cut aluminium and had it nickel plated locally. Very expensive, and it still didn't weld all that great. Definitely recommend soldered copper instead.

Because 0.254 mm thick copper (typical for a PCB) isn't enough to take the current.

@@jonescg its 0.8mm (i found such pcb sheets)

@@milordas Nice - if it works then give it a go! I like the idea of keeping the whole assembly as low profile as possible, as you can use the top and bottom surfaces as a means to remove heat from the cells.

I don't really recommend this, really. One option might be to use 0.9 mm copper and solder the nickel tabs to the busbar. Far more reliable.

Thanks a lot for your kind reply, highly appreciated. I can only use the existing, pure E-grade Aluminum. Nickel plating is quite exotic here! Did you do more test runs to understand the feasibility of welding to pure Aluminum? Would be great to know that before I throw away 1000$ on welder and test setup.

@@julianungerer1905 I got it to work because the nickel plating provided enough resistance to cause localised superheating at the point of contact. The problem is, the nickel layer can be broken off easily. You would need a VERY big spot welder to weld aluminium to nickel. The aluminium simply soaks up all the heat, causing the weld site to be quite cold and pretty poor.