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Did you abseil down to reach this?

Video cheered me up. I climbed this route in the sixties without any protection. Mind you, reflection says I was egged on and youthful ego took over. Don't tell my dad.

Nice lead. Why use half ropes as all the protection seems to follow the same line?

Which shoes would you climb this with?

Cripes that was a faff! From what I remember I'm sure you can get a small cam in low down, just enough to give the confidence to go for the moves to get established in the subsidiary crack. At the top of this is a nut placement then you move left into the main corner crack, which is pretty straightforward and very well protected.

Placing that amount of gear may mean the climber lives, however his partner probably died of bordom. A very good example of loosing the benefits of half ropes.

I could feel the fear.

Never like when the whole anchor is in one crack, but do what you have to do

You forgot the edge protection 😂

This was V Diff in the early 80’s

Over-reliance on cams when there are plenty perfect nut placements. Novice trad leaders should practice the art of placing nuts.

Are you using a GoPro mounted on helmet to film? What editing software do you use

It's not Severe. It's actually easier than VD, normally done in hiking boots, or soloed. The fact that you get terrified doesn't make the grade harder.

Nicely done, it brought back some great memories. I climbed it regularly in the early 1980s, now I struggle to go upstairs to the bathroom.

Im just getting into trad climbing and its fun as fuck will be doing some of these routes in the future 🤟

I seconded this a long time ago, I remember that first section looking really imposing, but a really fun climb. The camera makes it seem a lot steeper higher up. Did you walk the whole ridge, or just go for the climb?

I lead this sometime over 20 years ago, it's a really fun route, deserves it's 3 stars, and stayed in my memory after all this time! I didn't remember the gear placements, but after seeing it again, the protection is even better than I remember, considering back then when I only had a few cams! Really cool that you showed exactly what gear you used, very helpful. 👍

How do you get down from a pinnacle like that whilst not leaving gear?

Looks more like Lost Soul than Limbo?

One of the best VSs in Cornwall! Happy memories of sunny days on perfect granite.

A good test piece

Comparing to the rockfax guidebook, you look like you started on "Face Left" (left of the step), and then continued on Face. If you start right of the step you climb up and trend leftwards to join the main feature that you then follow to the top.

Handy metal spike! Great climb 😊🎉

No cams in my day😂

A really nice climb

Thank you very much. Very happy memories for me. Glad to have found your channel . I lead this 40 plus years ago. A really enjoyable climb. It was at my leading limit. I did do a couple of special , selected HVS. Got dragged up some hard routes by my mate who was much better than me.

😂 where did them people come from just walking up past you at the top. 😂 Nice one, looks a bit loose some of that rock!

also the giant knot looks like you're tied into the middle and leading from there.. have you considered using a bowline on a bight to tie into the middle instead? saves a load of rope. super secure and low profile AND you don't get that little death loop that sticks out from the knot which is just waiting to clip into a bit of gear on the way down..

hey I don't think it's overkill, but as there is so much gear in there you could always make it more quickly by omitting the two equalised slings, and functionally have the same anchor and just as equalised.. Just clip one rope through the right two pieces and one rope through the left two and then clove hitch to your belay loop. because the rope it stretchy it actually might be better equalised than using the two slings and you save a bunch of time!

How old is this?

It looks good! Off the beaten track a bit as well that place. Not too much traffic perhaps.thanks 😊

The return of the king

Looks like great fun! :)

Must say i am loving the beta videos at Stanage. I would love to see more! Nice clombing bro

Is there a reason he uses the ATC with the notches towards the climber (I.e.less braking)

Quite spicy in the second half!

There are loads of things I don’t like about his belay - so many things that I can’t be bothered to comment. It would take too long.

Thanks for all these videos Big Faff. Always good to see the close ups of gear placements. Do you wear your GoPro on the top of your helmet or at the front?

Thanks. I'm heading up there in a few weeks and have had difficulty locating this route in the past.

4a? Back in the day it was 2 minute solo!

The same thing happened to me with the nut popping at the start - I only realised once I'd topped out though!

So busy couldn't follow the progression. Symonds great place , your a talented guy climbing, need the filming skills Not sarcasm. Genuine criticism. Filming great art form.

I'm fairly new to trad climbing and have been outdoors around 6 time so far, but your videos have been really useful with looking at your choice of gear and placement. Thanks for uploading!

Dude tied in with a figure of 64 knot

Thanks for the memory of over 30 yrs ago!

Well in shun 💪💪

I don't understant the point on making two separated, 2 points, anchors rather than just one with 3 points (or even four if u feel like, but attached all to one single anchor). Tried to look for the answer in the coments, but maybe I missed it just cause my english is not that good. I honestly just want to know if there is any benefit on it.

HOW many runners...?

Climing

I mean climing