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Hi Jim. Thank you. All I’ve done is take the spring off, had it powder coated, cleaned the shock body by soaking rags in rust remover & wrapping them around it. Then used autosol metal polish. All the adjuster rings were cleaned & zinc coated along with all my bolts & brackets etc. if you need any other help or advice please feel free to ask.

It will sag more but that’ll make the bike a bit vague or hard to hold a line in a corner. It’ll also make it too harsh on larger bumps or potholes. I’d get the Honda low seat first then possibly look into lowering the bike if that doesn’t work. You really want your suspension to be set up & work properly so it keeps your tyres in contact with the ground as much as possible.

@@toejamtimmy4402 thank you very much...

Glad I could help!

Hi. PLO1201MK is the product code, hopefully that’ll help find it 👍

Hi, sorry for the late reply. I got to be honest, I didn’t use a torque wrench. I just made them tight without overdoing it. Bad practice but nothing has worked loose

Hello. Sorry for the late reply, I’ve only just seen it. Yes they are waterproof. I’ve ridden in torrential rain for 6 hours on the motorway & no leaks. I recommend them

No need to apologize..thank you

Hi John. Thanks for the offer, much appreciated. I bet it was a great feeling when you finished it. Do you have any YT videos? Feel free to put a link in the replies for me & others to see. I’m currently around half way through, in fact I fitted the first parts to the frame today… headset bearings & yokes. In the end I had the frame painted to keep the original colour & stamped VIN number but if I had my time again I’d probably powder coat. The painter made a complete hash of it & I ended up spending hours sorting it out myself. I’ll try to do an update video soon, I gave up on the build videos because it was taking too much time out of the project 🤦‍♂️😁🤷‍♂️

Hi, the part number is PLO1201MK

@@toejamtimmy4402 tks 👍🤙

Hi Oliver, no worries…I’m 12.5 stone with kit on & 11.5 without. It’s best to put the rear up to 4 just to make it sit on the side stand properly or else it’ll easily fall over with a passing car or medium wind. Also put the front preload up by 4-5 rotations (clockwise) & it’ll level the bike out & give it a much better feel, especially on low speed corners & roundabouts (traffic islands) Hope that helps, let us know how you get on 👍

@@toejamtimmy4402 i changed the rear to "4" and went for a short Trip Yesterday. Much better. Will try the Front later. Thanks so much

Once the brackets are fitted it’s only 4 bolts to remove the each bar… you can remove one side in about 3-5 mins. Not bad at all 👍

Thank you, much appreciated. It’s a great bike, really fun to ride. Just make sure to up the rear preload 2 clicks to number 4 & then 4-5 rotations up on the front preload. It transforms the bike & makes it much better. On the standard settings the bike can easily fall over because it’s so upright due to the sag.

Thanks mate, after watching your vids, I have done that...am at 4 clicks. I actually had an issue of torquing the top plastic spacers with bolts to the recommended 27nm as per givi manual. Has squashed the plastic spacers heaps and deformed them. Have contacted givi for answers. ​@toejamtimmy4402

@@tremorflow3614 sorry to hear that about the spacers… I did torque them up, I just tightened them up by judgement. I’m sure GIVI will send you some more spacers… let us know what happens

@toejamtimmy4402 thanks mate for confirming, I assume typo and you mean didn't? Just to confirm please

@@tremorflow3614 lol sorry, yeah was supposed to say didn’t 🤦‍♂️

Thank you! That’s great to hear. The lomo bags are very good, prefer them to my SW Motech I had which were double the price.

I didn’t know there was a quick release system for the bars… might look into it. Thanks for the info & for watching 👍

Thank you! 😊

Hi, it’s the Honda one… it’s actually quite sturdy for a branded skid plate. Only downside is it only comes in silver as do the lower bars that you need to fit it. We’re having them powder coated black soon

That’s great to know, thank you for the feedback 😊

Btw. Thanks! Very useful video

So did you tried it? I have the same bags and looking for info!

@george3021 yes hides the lights a little, but I didn't have the job of changing the register as you see in the video

@@cueclub4513 Guess its not much of a problem if it hides it a little. Dont want to alter the bike just for occasional bag fitment

@george3021 Yes that's whyI didn't change it. today I can buy GIVI and in the future another brand. I prefer not to change anything on the motorcycle.

Thank you, much appreciated. It’s always nice to know when a video has been of help. I did a review on the canyon 720’s… very good bags. Expensive (as is all luggage) but well worth the money.

😂👍

Sorry for the late response. Yes they will fit but you may have to use the indicator brackets. They’re good bags though. Enjoy!

I’m sure it won’t be long. Worth the wait. 🇧🇷 ❤️

Thank you, much appreciated. I’ll be happy to help in any way I can. The main problem is sourcing parts. Anything that’s been discontinued by Honda is silly money for preowned & nearly impossible to find new. Rugged Roads are a good source for parts, apart from that it’s worldwide eBay searches.

Thanks for the response. I’m sure you’ll be happy with them. The bike has been dropped twice on one side & they didn’t bend or break, only light scratches which I painted out & more importantly no damage to the bike apart from a bent front brake lever. (Honda hand guards are rubbish, get barkbusters or similar) Someone told me putting tape across the back of a ring spanner will hold the nut in place for the bottom bracket… I’d definitely give that a go, much easier option.

Hi, thank you…glad you liked it, hope it was helpful in some way. The tank protectors are optional extras from Honda. You can order them separately. If they’re not available where you are I could probably get some ordered & post them out. Just let me know

Thanks mate, I’ve just ordered them from fowlers Bristol, appreciate that 👍🏻

@@SHAUNYPALLACE oh nice one. Didn’t know if you were in the U.K. It takes a few weeks for the air bubble look to come out so don’t worry. My wife’s bike was like it when she collected it & they didn’t come out until after the 1st service

Thank you, much appreciated. I cannot wait to get going on it. Still in disbelief that I’ve finally got one.

and?are you pleased now?you see big differnce?

No I’m definitely turning it the correct way to increase preload. If you read the manual & you’ll see that number 2 is standard setting so therefore I’d be unable to go the wrong way more than one click. Let us know how you get on with the oil change etc.. be interesting to know how much of a difference it makes. 👍

OK. Just think of the shock absorber's body as a large bolt, and the adjuster ring as a large nut. You tighten the nut down to increase the spring's preload, and loosen the nut off to reduce preload. (That actual setting could be anywhere when you received the bike). That should make sense as to which direction is which, regardless of where the preload was set on delivery. Perhaps just take another look at it in light of this explanation. I have been riding for 61 years now and worked on bikes for a living for about 50 years, and was only trying to help! And I have read the manual. Enjoy your Transalp.

I assume you also adjusted the preload on the front forks to distribute weight on the front wheel.

@@fixento yeah I put the front up 3 rotations

Well in the course of bleeding/topping up my rear brake fluid, which requires the removal of the reservoir, it became clear that you were correct - the adjustment does in fact go 'the wrong way'. As in, the opposite way to every 'proper' shocker, with a threaded preload adjustment! This unit uses a stepped collar, like from an old twin-shock unit, but unlike those, the steps aren't visible until the rear brake hydraulics are worked on! Why Honda would make this adjustment the opposite direction to all others I have encountered makes no sense, but then neither does having no ambient temperature, amongst so much other extraneous information, the blinker switch placed differently to every other bike, no hand knob (with arrows!) for the shock preload, etc. Although this will be my fourth Honda, it is my first new one. My older ones still had the blinker switch where other makes have theirs... So yes, the preload adjuster DOES adjust in the opposite direction to most monoshocks, which is literally 'counter-intuitive'. At least for someone more accustomed to Ohlins and the like, and every other Showa I have worked on. But the shocker isn't of very good quality, and will be replaced with a better one soon in my case. (I will try an oil change, but I suspect it is destined to become a shed ornament). After 5,000 kms on my Transalp now, the suspension is 'tolerable', but suffers from being unsure whether it is for on-road, or off-road, and the reality that the suspension isn't of very high quality. I will experiement with changing the oils in the (separate functon) forks, probably to lighter weight oil in the compression leg, and slightly heavier in the rebound leg, but the rear unit will just get replaced. I/we knew the suspension was where this bike would need some work, and bought it knowing this. At least the cheap buying price makes this relatively affordable, as against lashing out for a Ducati or Aprilia... If changing the fork oils doesn't yield the expected improvement, there are cartridges being offered for them now. Like the bashplate, handguards etc, we knew there was a little more to spend on this bike. But it is a model worth 'finishing off', and I think this model may be around for many years, as it suits many riders. I am enjoying mine more than I expected to.

Hi. The racks would help keep wrap over bags away from the body work but personally if I was going to use that type of system I’d remove the racks & put clear 3m film or decals to protect the paint just to keep the weight as close to the bike as possible. I’m considering the Giant loop system for my AT. The original rear grab bar is probably heavy but it’s easily removed unlike the one on the AT which requires removing side panels & undertray. Rear spring rate is ridiculously soft so uprated spring is on order. Hope that helps

@@toejamtimmy4402 that is a good idea, I need three strong attachment points for the tie-downs so I need to fund a rack to replace the mega-bars.

@@toejamtimmy4402 A few reviewers have commented on vibrations and snatchy throttle but I reckon much depends on how many miles the demo bike had covered at the time. My CB500X settled in after a 1000 miles or so. I can recommend SW motech EVOs if the stock pegs are still vibey. They have removeable rubber inserts, but you can also adjust the height, angle, fore and aft....not cheap but a good upgrade. Still weighing up the new TA against a Tiger 850 Sport....I do like my Hondas though ;)

@@billyb6043 it’s shameful but in 39 year riding I’ve never ridden a Triumph despite really liking them. It pains me to say but the Triumph probably has better build quality but not sure on price comparison. I want to get her Barkbusters & adjustable levers first, the Honda guards are useless except for wind & rain & she’s having trouble reaching the clutch lever with her small hands 😁 once that’s done it’ll be springs & footpegs. Thanks for the recommendation, much appreciated 👍

I know this is an old post, but I'm replying in case someone else comes along with a similar question. There was definitely an increase in handlebar vibration after I installed Outback Motortek's crash bars and skid plate. Those bars connect to the head stock under the headlight and I suspect that's the cause of the handlebar vibrations. There wasn't a noticeable increase in seat or footpeg vibrations for me. Now that I have Barkbusters installed (just using the stock handlebar weights), there is less vibration than stock. So yes, crash bars can increase vibrations (esp if they bolt to the headstock) but I wouldn't be too concerned about it since handlebar protectors will get rid of them (and you should probably be running both or neither imo).

Hi, yes it’s aluminium & an optional extra from Honda. If it was my bike I’d have got either the HEED pan & lower bars or the SW motech one. They’re stronger, I think cheaper & also available in black. Honda only do silver.