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Johnstone Supply Cafferty Group
Добавлен 28 ноя 2016
Proudly serving Omaha, Lincoln, Des Moines, Davenport, Kearney, Ames, Topeka, Grand Junction, Durango, Waterloo, Cedar Rapids and surrounding areas.
Johnstone Supply is your one-stop shop, with a variety of options in unitary and specialty equipment, repair and replacement parts, and maintenance supplies for Residential, Light Commercial, Refrigeration and Facilities Maintenance.
We offer the products, programs and services that help contractors of all sizes succeed. We’re committed to being your HVACR resource from start to finish.
Johnstone Supply is your one-stop shop, with a variety of options in unitary and specialty equipment, repair and replacement parts, and maintenance supplies for Residential, Light Commercial, Refrigeration and Facilities Maintenance.
We offer the products, programs and services that help contractors of all sizes succeed. We’re committed to being your HVACR resource from start to finish.
Видео
JS Website Account Management Settings
Просмотров 37Месяц назад
You need a Johnstone Supply employee to change your status on the website to Superuser status, and you have access to all of these settings for users on your Company Account: *Hide Pricing *Disable Checkout *Remove User (from website only) *Approval Process needed *Thresholds for Approval Process If you have questions, feel free to comment or email ecommerce@johnstonecg.com. Subscribe or hit th...
JS Website Order Approval Process
Просмотров 452 месяца назад
After being setup by someone at Johnstone Supply, you are able to have an approval process available for orders placed by your technicians or you can send the approval email to yourself and create multiple "carts", orders or "bids" that you can go back to and modify until the job is approved and your order is ready. What would you like to see? Send a message to ecommerce@johnstonecg.com and mak...
Web Update 060624
Просмотров 262 месяца назад
Product Details Page feature - Product Group Have a topic about the website that you would like covered? Send an email to ecommerce@johnstonecg.com. Like and Subscribe to be alerted when new videos come out.
Website Login Process
Просмотров 403 месяца назад
Logging into the Johnstone Supply website opens up a lot of new opportunities for you. Technician tools available to make things easier and not listed until after you log in. Have Questions? What would you like to see next? Contact ecommerce@johnstonecg.com.
JS Register Account
Просмотров 643 месяца назад
Want to start doing business with Johnstone Supply? Do you already do business with us, but you want to have access to the website? This is your first step in registering your business or setting up a web user with us. Have Questions? What would you like to see next? Contact ecommerce@johnstonecg.com.
Johnstone Supply Order Checkout Process
Просмотров 775 месяцев назад
The options that are given mean something and it helps to understand what to select so that you know when to expect items to be ready or to be shipped to you. Have Questions? What would you like to see next? Contact ecommerce@johnstonecg.com.
Johnstone Supply Website Update 022324
Просмотров 1026 месяцев назад
Updates to the website, showing off the Part to Part and Product Comparison features. Have Questions? What would you like to see next? Contact ecommerce@johnstonecg.com.
dc checker load and use
Просмотров 7332 года назад
Display of download d - checker and install software, connect and record data, import and export data.
Daikin D checker review
Просмотров 4,9 тыс.2 года назад
Review of the D Checker data and graph and importing BTSC .tgz files.
Geo thermal heat pump operation
Просмотров 1162 года назад
A video from WFI explaining Geo thermal Heat pump Theory and operation
counter review of bosch 15 SEER
Просмотров 3,7 тыс.2 года назад
Quick talk about the intro of the Bosch BOVA15, 15 SEER Unit compared to the 18 and 20.
Goodman Comfort Bridge Quick programming
Просмотров 23 тыс.2 года назад
Goodman Comfort Bridge Quick programming
Johnstone Supply Cafferty Group Xtreme Xperience
Просмотров 952 года назад
Johnstone Supply Cafferty Group Xtreme Xperience
Daikin ONE adjust humidity from home owner menu
Просмотров 7 тыс.3 года назад
Daikin ONE adjust humidity from home owner menu
Daikin ONE find the software revision
Просмотров 6293 года назад
Daikin ONE find the software revision
Daikin One translation adaptor s21 training
Просмотров 7 тыс.3 года назад
Daikin One translation adaptor s21 training
Daikin One thermostat commissioning software 2 0
Просмотров 9323 года назад
Daikin One thermostat commissioning software 2 0
With a communicating air handler / furnace, it is much simpler to do all of this set up via bluetooth and the coolcloud app. It lets you set up everything assuming you understand what equipment you have. In regards to dehumidification and so on. Look up the cfm on the AHRI certificate and ideally operate there (in AC mode) for the best efficiency. Normally that will not be at the full 400 cfm / ton of the unit, it will be backed off a bit. Set up properly with the right profiles, these units work awesome - at least mine does and I set it all up myself.
Christopher - thanks for the post! I agree, that the Bluetooth setup is a great way to do this. I finally got mine dialed in (communicating mode), but it took some effort. I am still using my NEST Gen3 thermostat and here is what I did to get it to work: At furnace, connect White and Black wires to 4 conductor Phoenix plug. Wired NEST with a single Y and W - no need for Y2 or W2. Left C and G wires to furnace only. Did not use R and C to outdoor compressor - it has a 24VAC transformer installed. At compressor, removed 6 connector Phoenix plug (used for non-communicating mode between furnace and compressor) and install 4 conductor plug (1,2, R,C). R & C connected to 24VAC transformer. Only 2 wires required from furnace! My Observations: The CoolCloud (IOS app) Bluetooth poor connection issue is the main reason installers avoid using, in particular, if furnace is in the attic. You have to be really close to the unit to keep connected. However, I arranged my wires inside furnace away from the integrated Bluetooth chip (lower left side on board) and made sure the high current wires were move as far as possible from that area of the board. I also arranged wires so that the panel door did not have to be removed to get the 3-digit code. After completing this, I was able to get an addition bar of signal strength - while in bedroom. I no longer had to be in the attic to stay connected! Yay!! I wanted to monitor performance of the communicating mode and try to compare with the NEST modulating efforts. The code resets after 8 hours or so and I did not want to climb back to attic to get the new code. The thermostat Off, On, Off procedure works but is cumbersome to me. So, I mounted an old Amcrest camera with a magnetic base inside the furnace. This was an idea my wife gave me and it turns out this was a brilliant idea!! This 10-year-old WiFi camera now allows me to view the 3-segment display without going to the attic. I even monitor it while away from home. If I need to get a new code, I just look at the camera - have not been in the attic all week. I use the camera most of the time now to monitor since the 3-segment display shows what is going on, mode, airflow, etc. After about 8 days of use, I can confirm that the communicating algorithm (mode 4 for me) seems to be working great. This thing runs in Stage 1 most of the time and I see the 1/2, 7, and greater, minute changes occurring with different CFM readings. Although I use the 30-minute target with Cooling Trim Factor=0, I do see the CFM reporting 1245 at times. I am going to give this a good week or two and go from there. The CoolCloud IOS app does not seem to be supported by Goodman anymore. When looking at google reviews that are current and over 4 years old, they are still using the same canned reply, "we are working on it". I am really hoping that the folks that did the app programming are NOT the same who did the modulating program algorithms. I will be posting a RUclips review of the app I will name, "CoolCloud - Unmarred by Progress". ComfortBridge is such a good concept that is unfortunately destroyed by horrific CoolCloud app. The whole security code nonsense is such a waste and roadblock to AC technicians trying to use. Thanks again for your post - I was wondering if anyone even looks at this video anymore.
Hello and thanks for any much-needed help with my situation. I had a new Goodman system installed a week ago, replacing an 11-year-old Goodman system for cooling the upstairs. New system, 3T, 2 stage, GSXC7 compressor, GMVC8 furnace and CAPTA3626C4 coil. I learned that the professional installer chose not to enable ComfortBridge. I was wanting and expecting this feature mostly for the diagnostics, and, if correct, Goodman documentation states it will ensure maximum efficiency. While using the CoolCloud IOS app, it was clear I was missing something. The installer stated that they do NOT enable this technology because of the problems it has caused them in the past and the high failure rate. However, I feel I paid for something I wanted and because they have no expertise with ComfortBridge, it is left disabled. I don't want to insult the installer by saying my internet research does not agree with his ComfortBridge assessment and try to force the issue if indeed ComfortBridge is not worth it. I tried contacting Goodman and did not get an answer because I'm a homeowner. I emailed Goodman and asked a simple question, “what will I miss if ComfortBridge is not enabled?”, Goodman response: “We recommend that you contact your local HVAC contractor to come out and evaluate your equipment.” Currently the system is installed with a new NEST learning thermostat and configured as non-communicating. So finally, my questions for you experts: What will I miss if ComfortBridge is not enabled? Does ComfortBridge have a high failure rate? Is the CoolCloud IOS app the reason for the problems reported with ComfortBridge? Is ComfortBridge worth trying to get the installer to enable and configure? Or should I just cave and accept what I have if my delta T's are in spec? My NEST does show Stage 1 and 2 cooling modes. After watching your video on ComfortBridge Algorithms, I feel the NEST is inferior to ComfortBridge when in “communicating” mode. Any advice much appreciated - thanks!
I appreciate the info but my fucking god the mouth noises you make are fucking gross. Please spend the money on a filter for any videos you voice over. I needed this info and it was excruciating listening to your saliva.
Just put in an SD, working great, very quiet. As usual, read the included installation documentation ... its really the best training available.
Thank you for that piece of wisdom, my favorite install class to do is when every one gets a install guide and a highlight marker and we review it together. It has 99% of the answers in it.
Great video. Your comment way below about the inverter sitting at a constant frequency when the evap target of 45 is satisfied +-2 degrees is dead on. This is happening to my BOVB20-60 coupled with a 4ton BMAC and 4ton BGH96. The BOVB thinks everything is great and parks at 2.5 tons instead of turning the fan to stage 2 to draw the heat out of my 2nd floor through an undersized return. The end result is that my 2nd floor overheats during cooling and the system sits on stage 1 for hours just barely coping until it hits a high enough delta on the stat to run stage 2. Is it possible to use the W1 to W2 upstage dip switch to force stage 2 cooling after 10 minutes? I need this function but I have my stat to let the furnace run the fan. The manual talks about the upstage being for heating so I'm not sure what to do. Thanks, Steve
Neither the BOSCH BCC100 or Honeywell T6 and T10 series I normally suggest allow upstage for Y2. An easy fix would be ICM102 delay on make between Y1 and Y2 at furnace board and choose your timing, this will also function with the heat pump. It does sound like a balance issue for needed CFM during cooling not getting upstairs where needed, increasing CFM will increase to both main level and second level. Does the second floor have its own trunk? If so a balance will be required using dampers. An easy test to see if that will help is pinch off registers on main floor and see if you increase CFM to level 2 and change the comfort.
@@johnstonecg I will take a look at the ICM102 to see if I want to go that route...it sounds like a reasonable solution until I can figure out the ducting. This is a side-split and the 2nd floor has 6 x 5" round risers and 2 small square returns going up 2x4 walls that open up to 4 floor returns. There is evidence of multiple past attempts to fix the issue...lots of baseboard heaters on the outskirts of the 2nd floor and some capped off vents on the main floor. Over the last couple days I did some duct sealing and moving dampers but it was not enough to make the inverter work substantially harder.
@@SteveRivett Yes some times we hit that brick wall called poor duct work. Best of luck, let me know if we can help.
Very helpful, thank you
got a current link for these files pls
spaces.hightail.com/space/5lxU2KvRQX
@@johnstonecgplease tell Diakin there app fucking sucks
Hi sir, when can to buy a wireless adapter of daikin?
Just Google Johnstone Supply, there should be one near you
how do you set an ecobee thermostat for 1 cycle per hour? I don't see it as an option.
spaces.hightail.com/space/xQ62iFJgsl
I have two AVPTC37C14 with two identical GSZC160361 condensers. Both of the units were having problems with locked rotor faults on the compressor motor, pretty much since installation. I looked into it and found that they had been legacy wired using a two-stage thermostat. I changed one to 'communicating' and it's been working fine for about a week. When I tried to do the same with the other system, it did not work. The control boards are different on the indoor units. The one that is fixed has three led digits, the other one has one. Can I use the single led board in a communicating system or does it have to be legacy wired?
No, put 3 wire hard starts on both units to resolve your locked rotor code. They are slightly slow to start and the board has no forgiveness for timing. CSR-U-1 is Goodman part number., the schematic shows where to make connections. You can use any brand but do not use the 2 wire.
Kinda sucks Goodman makes you program the board and make you buy the chip
All my stores have a chip loaner, ask the store you work with if they do.
I wish you did this video on the furnace board Practically, not theoretically it will be much better..I'm an hvac contractor i was installing goodman furnace always but now I stopped buying them because they make it so complicated.
I have one. I contacted 6 wire w R G Y c. Put In heat the fan work fine put. In Ac cooling the blower fan not working in cooling
ODS is not set! Go to ods setting and set to AC1 or AC2, then go to ton and set the number to match tonnage of your outdoor unit.
We had a Goodman furnace installed two weeks ago with a comfort bridge and it is wreaking havoc on our thermostat. Some days the 2nd stage will kick at the very end and some at the very beginning. Fan speed will fluctuate and then the thermostat will lock out the reading. What a complete POS. I am looking at my legal options to return this crap.
I hate to ask. Recently had IDS 2.0 3 ton 15 seer installed. No issues cooling season per se. However, heating season has been a challenge because I understood that system had 10 speeds and should be modulating which I thought would be noticeable in the outdoor unit. But, every time the unit calls for heat the fan in the outdoor seems to be at once speed (High) ALL the time. I thought it was adjusting to meet demand and that meant different fan speeds that I saw during cooling season. Had HVAC installers here several times and they said everything was normal. What gives?
Cooling season it is a ten speed and does its best to maintain around 86 degrees on the outdoor heat exchanger. During Heating we would get 8 speeds but under 50 degrees outdoor temperature it really is a 3 speed. The need for heat extraction with the size of the coils requires a certain amount of CFM. The fan speed is dependent on the frequency of compressor and outdoor ambient. If the Outdoor heat exchanger were twice as large, or multi pass for surface area, we would move less air. The size of unit and cost of coil is a trade off for required cfm.
@@johnstonecg Thanks! Ok thank you.
My company just got the first one of these from Johnstone. I just put the air handler with 10kw electric heat and a 2 stage heat pump. Using an ecobee I’m kind of confused if I wire it normally R,C,G,W,Y,Y2 from stat and to HP or if it stages the heat pump itself and I just connect Y. Also when using 24v ac wiring and remove the 4 wire plug at the outdoor, do you just unhook it from the transformer and the black and grey wires since I have R and C feeding the heat pumps board from air handler?
Thanks ahead of time if you respond
If the outdoor unit is communicating (I need model) you can wire the 1 and 2 only and the stat will be RCWYG only and set up as a 1H1C stat non heatpump and it will control the heatpump and electric heat. If you wire legacy (standard) you can wire up a heatpump thermostat and standard wires outside but the 12RC plug is unplugged and replaced, the RC power from outside will not be used.
@@johnstonecg I just got the model numbers. The air handler is AMVT42CP1400 Heat pump is GSZC703610.
Any idea why in heat mode my blower will shut off a few minutes into running? My pressures were holding steady at 130(ish)/330(ish), then my high side starts rising rapidly. I finally figured out my blower stops running. It keeps running in cooling though.
It could possibly be the anti cold air fan delay. If you have a BVA20 AHU it cycles the blower off with low temp on the hot gas line. The board should have 3 blinks at his time. Turn SW6-3 to off on the BVA20 to disable that feature. You will have blower come on right away with call and may feel some cold air. at start of cycle.
@@johnstonecg it's an avptc61 and I didn't see anything like that in the settings. When I got into cool cloud, I have a lot of indoor unit can not communicate with outdoor unit. My first thought was the control board on the condenser.
So sorry I have you confused with another reply, No reason at all. Make sure the ODS is set to hp1 (or2)and the Y (Y2 if wired legacy mode) is connected to the board. if the outdoor unit is communicating with the 1 and 2 make sure the stat is in standard mode (1H1C) and not heat pump. Let me know on that Id be happy to help
@@johnstonecg thank you, I'll try that when I get home
Hello. I live in Quebec and i have a 4 ton IDS2.0 with a Bosch furnace. I use Y1 and Y2. Presently speed fan is set up like that : Y1 = 1 and Y2 = 3 . Do you think it s ok ? I red all the comments and I think that low speed is not the best.
In your climate during heat cycle, it would not produce enough BTUs to be of any help. during cooling the 2 speeds would be helpful, you would most likely not need all 4 tons most of the season. If you chose to leave it moving it to Y2 Y3 (Im not sure your model or ESP) the Unit is not really going to operate below 50% long and the OSU is a 5 ton set up as a 4 ton (only available in 3 or 5 ton) and the max lowest it will run is 2 ton and will most likely be at 3.5 ton most its life. So if your primarily heating just jumper Y1 Y2 for the heat season (add jumper in the furnace on control board leaving wires in place). The higher CFM will produce more BTUs.
So I should setup SW6-1,2 to ON in order to have fan speed at 3 (médium) with Y1 and fan speed at 5 (high) with Y2. Right? Thanks for support
Presently fan speed is 1 and 3. So less BTU.
@@fontainejean-philippe775 The Unit Btu output is based on the temp (related pressure) of the large line, either suction or hot gas mattering on mode. It will speed compressor up to maintain one temperature on the line, the more you speed up fan the more heat you remove from the exchanger making the coil cooler and in turn the compressor speeds up.
I gotta say. I came from an Ecobee. I never read any instruction on that. Was so easy. This thing! This thing should go back to the drawing table, maybe buy the rights to Ecobee and use that format, or maybe get just start over. I think I'd have an easier time learning to split the atom than work with this thermostat. I appreciate what you're doing, but Daikin should do exponentially more to give proper instruction on this. It's terrible!
It is a departure from the format used by most other manufactures and I am sure a lot of test and review groups were involved. the important thing is in the back round it runs algorithm's properly. We are up to in excess of 3000 sold in my 12 stores and now launching Goodman and Amana Versions and to be honest have more complaints by percent from Nest, Sensi and Ecobee on the set up portion or the control portion. I think the future view is 'set it and forget it' .In saying that all three of the stats mentioned above user interface is by far better.
@@johnstonecg Mmm. Your experience is surprising. I just had it installed, so we'll see how things work out as time progresses. The algorithms working correctly is super important, and that's assuming I understand the goal they want to reach. I'm adjusting still. I'm finding the heater doesn't appear to be efficient when compared to my previous gas furnace, but that's hard to quantify. Comparing gas to electric isn't easy. Made a substantial dent over night into my back up batteries. I'm assuming AC will be noticeably better. I'm still adjusting and learning.
Thats a surprise statement on energy use, is your unit a Heat pump? I am not sure your area or temperatures but at .13 KW hour and 1.50 per therm NG we are close. Are you all electric heat? If you are a heatpump let me know we can give the Heat pump a bit more stage time and keep that back up off for a bit.
@@johnstonecg I'm new and the terminology is unfamiliar to me. I had a blower/furnace, so gas. I switched to the Daikin FIT heat pump invertor with air handler, so electric? Not Apples to apples i realize. but I remember using my AC with my old 9 seer unit and my solar app would show it using aprox 3.5 kwh. My new Daikin FIT HEAT PUMP using HEATER uses aprox 3.5 kwh. Yes, one was AC and the other heat. I'm told the AC will use noticeably less. I have my doubts, but we'll see. Original AC I'd watch for about 20 minutes to pass the initial startup. The Daikin, I had to wait for it to wind up and start blowing (it's slower). Yes, Daikin does wind down after temp is attained. But it still managed to put a huge dent in my battery storage (2 Powerwalls ) over night! I'm not sure what old AC would have done to Powerwalls over night. So I know I don't have apples to apples. But it seems like a lot. "Guessing" Daikin may have sucked down 14-15 kwh hours just overnight, probably more. Being as it's just reversed AC, I'd expect AC in the summer to be similar. I imagined/guessed it wouldn't have sucked down that much in a 24 hour period, let alone maybe 10 hours. I was surprised.
Can you do a unico system with Bosch hp
Yes it will function fine, Unico had AHRI matches in the past but may no longer have ratings if your looking for rebates. You would still use the Unico Coil.
This is my Krptonite. CODE: d0 - Air conditioner/heat pump is wired as part of a communicating system and integrated control module does not contain any shared data
D0 code can be corrected by data transfer, simple has connecting with unit (may show up as a shared data card). It will request model of unit and transfer data. If that will not function a data chip can be used (programable shared data) and is loaded on the Cr function of the menu. If none of this works for you let us know and we can do a short video on the data transfer. If your D0 is on a Unit over 5 years old and not bluetooth a standard chip can be ordered and is simply installed in data slot poer unit up 60 seconds and done.
How do I get the air handle to go into pairing mode. I cannot connect using the app. It never finnds the equipment
The equipment is in constant pairing mode, you will not see it if something in the home has paired with it. I get this in lab when students pair with it it locks me out. Cycle the power and try to pair right away. If you still can not pair send me the serial number and I will see if a production run had issues.
What’s A05 FAN code?
A is for airflow so A05 is fan running at 500CFM
I just had the following heat pump condenser and air handler installed, GSZC703610A AMVT42CP1400A, it’s supposed to be a 2 stage unit but I’m concerned it was connected in a way it’s only operating as a 1 stage. Can I email you photos of the wiring so you can take a look?
training @johnstonecg.com
As far as I can determine, the humidity setting on the Daikin One does absolutely nothing.
As long as we are speaking of the Humidity setting and not dehumidify setting then yes both function with complete different set ups. Either a humidifier is added as equipment in the settings to Aux on subbase, and wired per instructions only, or in section 3 equipment the humidifier relay can be turned on. it is a dry contact on the board and operates with call when blower operates or in some cases turns on blower. If the set up is correct and the contacts do not close Daikin suggest flash the board but in my experience the board ends up getting replaced.
How can I get the tool please
Any Johnstone would have the BTSC (blue tooth service checker) under part number B23-292, Daikin would use part number 999172T.
@@johnstonecg do we need training on the dchecker to purchase it and the service check 4 too???
Any Goodman / Daikin Distributor or Johnstone Supply near you should carry the Bluetooth Service Checker (BTSC), exporting the data to your laptop and importing with d checker 3 free software. You also can blue tooth with your laptop and the D checker 3 software directly. Service Checker 4 requires special training form Daikin and can only be purchased with a certification.
@@johnstonecg getting some weird looks around here. Lol
My unit is GMVC80704BX, I do not have buttons near my lcd to set legacy mode. I see dip switches???
That series would not be the comfort bridge series. On a standard board a plug with legacy connections is all that's needed.
@@johnstonecg so your telling all I have to do is use the other terminal block ? I want to put a Nest thermostat. I know, I know don't ridicule me for doing so. The wife wants it🤷🏾♂️
yes, but the outdoor unit will need to be legacy wired as well. The board and outdoor unit will respond to the legacy signals and the comm wires 1 and 2 will not function.
@@johnstonecg alot easier than I expected, I wired it like a normal thermostat indoor on the extra terminal block.The blower worked, but the outdoor unit didn't kick on as you eluded to in this video. Haven't looked at the condenser but I'm assuming the condenser has the same terminal connectors as the indoor unit? I'd have to order another terminal connector like the one I have for the indoor correct?
@@dl7481 The outdoor unit gets the same 24 volts as the board. So Y will run high speed fan indoors and compressor outdoors. The indoor board does not tell the outdoor what to operate, that's done by thermostat. Your indoor may be running off the G signal for fan and the Y is not functioning? If you have a meter check for 24 volts between Y and C outdoor. If you have a separate transformer wired to R and C outdoors unhook it and use R and C from indoor.
Daikin is the biggest piece of garbage on the planet. System works fine for two-and-a-half years then out of nowhere share data missing or incompatible won't communicate all the wiring is fine the f****** tech support is like trying to get ahold of goddamn Jesus and there's nothing in the manuals to help. I worked on many of inverter unit and never had as many problems as Daikin does. I wish the Damned slant-eyes never started selling that equipment in the US. Then you replace the board you flash it like you're supposed to and it doesn't fix the issue but we have to sit around and wait for 30 minutes for the thermostat to figure out how to f****** talk to the rest of the equipment. I would never installed one of these pieces of s*** in my house.
Why the IDS15 use a single speed motor with a variable speed inverter? Dumb yes?
The IDS18 and IDS20 do the same, although Y1 and Y2 can be used for 2 speeds. Yes this is different from all the other inverters I support but look at the SEER, SEER2, EER, HSPF they rival or exceed all of the other products. The variable blower is comfortable but when you have a room or two in your home with poor airflow and you slow your blower down? Then it is less of a benefit.
Is there any videos on how the high voltage should be wired in the condenser that has a Bluetooth bord?
There up to 4 different communicating air conditioners and 4 heat pumps but all of them will have standard 208/230 connections for L1 L2 and a earth ground connection and should be plainly marked. with 2 of the models you can wire legacy (RCY1Y2OW) but if taking advantage of the indoor blue tooth set up your connections on control would be 1 and 2, never the R and C from inside on new equipment.
They need to simplify all these different parameters. Wifi blue tooth is 10000 percent worthless to much trouble connecting even when does. There only about 2 things you do on cooling side to change cfm. Only valuable information is being able to read cfm. Also there app has to many problems. Its dependent apon internet connect . If your out in the country forget it. Goodman you need to simplify fan speed with about 4 different parameter make no sense to adjust fan speed by tonage then have adjustment for percentages. Make a true variable and ramp The motor speed up and down on temperature . Just not useer friendly for start up. Dont have all day in a lab to play with fan speed. Forget the wifi to much trouble make a board that more user friendly with real letters and numbers you can read instead of broken Egypt symbols nobody can interpret.
Sorry to hear about you connectivity issues. The last few years have been incredibly successful for the application with contractors I have worked with and is capable of any needed adjustment. The sensible heat ratio is set by the home and environment and is used to set blower speed, don't overthink it when it comes to a blower setting, if you need to verify it just use the delta of the temperature and humidity. I'm sure the app isn't for everybody but Goodman and Amana and some lower end Daikin product have partnered with Emmerson for production and adopted it for the long run.
@@johnstonecg Contractors do NOT have time nor understanding of all of these parameters. This is way over the top for complications. Again, this is just a thermostat with turn on turn off...this many menu items... is simply ridiculous and never used.
@@jonnymakers9560 What your explaining is stage up on timing and is no different than the old dip switch for stage 2 delay only you can adjust every bit of it down to the minute. It seems you have not entered the CFS menu and adjusted timing or the CFM settings for the 2 speeds. You are correct it is not a simple drop in and walk away. We are in customers homes for one thing, human comfort and this unit gives us the ability to customize every aspect of operation. We have contractors installing it every day with success but I have to wonder if its not what you wanted why the purchase? I think a review of the installation instructions can clear all the questions or issues you have posted or feel welcome to ask any questions on a specific setting.
Totally I agree with you. They make it so complicated...system should be easy to troubleshooting for any technician without going to call help desk or manual book that is not available most of the time and if it's there is not covering all this info..
@@abdorakeebnaji1527 I am an independent distributor and not Goodman but all the books are available from many websites or where you purchase equipment. The days of installing a piece of equipment and walking away are over, the ESP must be correct and airflow set to assure proper SHR. With the A2L refrigerants liability will be a factor in the industry and the responsibility of proper working equipment and safe operation on the shoulders of technicians. The HVAC technicians need every tool they can get and equipment like this offers that. None of would buy a TV and bring it home and its 10% smaller than advertised, we wouldn't put up with that and this type of equipment allows us to make a professional installation that meet all factory specifications.
I’ve been looking for more specifications on this system without having to read so much thank you your a life saver I do have a question will the bov15 condenser and Bosch 20 air handler still have dehumidification option without using the B100 and if so can I use the Sensi touch for dehumidification and if so what would be the best way to wire or adjust thermostat settings to lower my fan speed for dehumidification For a 2 ton
You can not use the fan speed for dehumidification via the SHR but reduce the BTU output and increase cycle length. Using Y1 Y2, so 2 stage stat would do very well with the 20 SEER AHU. Just set the Y1 to about 600 CFM and Y2 to 800 CFM, if the thermostat allows you to latch on stage 2 do so. Still keep cycle rate of compressor at 1.
I have a 3 ton Amana unit and have a problem with high humidity. I was wondering if this is because comfortbrifge was never activated on my unit?
It is not a question if it was activated, it is part of the system. But in the set up the cfm can be set as well as a dehum profile to assist in de humidification. excessive airflow is the enemy of de hum.
@Johnstone Supply Cafferty Group how hard would it be to adjust the cfms and set up humidification?
@@jerryees If you do not understand the CFM and the relationship to de humidification I would proceed with caution. But if you down load the cool cloud app and talk to your unit or view all the settings before you do anything, at give yourself a chance to ask questions first you could be ok.
Do you have a y experience with the EasyAir app that supposedly connects to these? It seems very lacking.
Other than remote view of an error I do feel it does lack. The other functions can be completed without need for adding the product. I have a small amount of experience with the control and app under a different name (product produced by Midea for Bosch) but have not ordered any of the Premium Connected series units.
for those who are looking for the code, - it is 4 last digits of wifi MAC address
Thank you it is and if you lost your box on the code entry screen the top right letter "i" for information, will give it to you.
Great video, do you recommend wiring y1 and y2 or keep them separate for 2 stage blower motor speed?
You have all the benefits of an inverter with just one speed cool, as long as the CFM are correct for the BTU. Never enough time in the videos but having Y1 Y2 separate would be a discussion on velocity of air in your duct work. If the Bosch is added to existing ducts I am sure they were not designed to keep velocity high enough to get the recommended throw from registers. With an inverter I am a fan of a single Y if your not zoned.
Hello, I am interested in buying it, what is its value and also if I can get all the spare parts for vrv daikin with you
You certainly can visit our site Johnstonesupply.com and open an account. Search for BTSC.
What is the correct dip switch setting for an installation without emergency heat strips installed? What do we do with the W wires in this case? Also, can we force the 4-ton air handler to run in LOW speed only due to the existing duct design not being suitable for higher fan speed? thanks
I would need to know what Air handler you have to talk dip switches. the Back up heat signal from thermostat will go to W, the outdoor W will go to W and if the unit has a W2, you can stage it or set timing or even just jumper the W1 W2. The outdoor unit maintains one pressure at transducer (translates to 46 degrees cooling and 107 degrees heating) so poor airflow will automatically reduce BTU output. So you can set the Y1 only or Y1 and Y2 on air handler but lower the speed taps for reduced air flow with out any issues.
@@johnstonecg thanks for responding. This is a BOVB-60HDN1-M18M condenser being installed with a BVA-48WN1-M20 air handling unit. I would like to limit the CFM of the blower to the tap (1) or tap(2) speeds at .5" WC. No Heating strips on this installation.
The low speed will really restrict BTU output but yes. Wire the Y from stat to outside without a connection to the board and set G to low, if you need a tiny bit more use Y1 only. The high static of the poor duct will do the rest. backup/aux heat from stat and W from outdoor unit both to W on AHU
im waiting for weeks for johnstone to approve new account to download software
In a defrost scenario where Bova sends 24 volts back up to a furnace for a gas heat call. Some furnace controls will kill the blower while initializing the burner lite process and will bring the blower back on 30 to 40 seconds once the flame has been established. Is this a problem for the condenser? Going so long without the blower running.
With a Y call on the control board the furnace should not kill the blower at any time. The Y from thermostat connects to the furnace and out door unit both, when the outdoor unit redirects the 24v to W the indoor unit will give the still powered Y is chosen for blower speed.
Awesome. Thanks for all the helpful information.
What if you can’t find your model number on the shared data. Model-advc80703bx
go to mobile.goodmanmfg.com/mobileapp/index.jsp type in serial number to get correct model. ADVC is not a correct model, I would guess its AMVC but the link will tell you. Type it in under warranty tab.
How do we set the auxiliary heat on a heat pump 2 stage? I know you have to program the KW. Is that the EHL?
scroll to EHT hit center button scroll up and down to the KW installed hit center button 2x (not one time like in instructions)
i have honeywell zoning on my avptc air handler and for some reason when i set the fan to on or circulate my blower wont turn on, i have 3 units all with zoning and they all do the same thing. i need to set up an external dehumidifier but i cant get it to work because the fan wont run independently. any help would be appreciated.
Does the display show FAn? The zone control would energize fan with 24volts on the G terminal and the display would change from idL to FAn. If it does not send us model of zone panel to help you out. If board shows FAn folowed by the A with cfm the fan should operate or the board has no output.
Quick is right. Try speaking slower
thank you for sharing. it is very helpful
Your welcome, always feel free to ask questions
Hi! This is extremely helpful. I have two of these installed in my house with heat pump 2 stage outdoor units that are communicating capable but wired up legacy based on what I can tell. I'd prefer they were communicating. For the Communicating wires are we able to utilize the existing legacy wires from the air handler to the heat pump or do they have to be shielded/special wires? Thanks!
Standard 18 solid will be fine, non shielding is not an issue. Reuse the wires you have use only connections on 1 and 2 (do not use R and C). To confirm good comm signal measure from C to 1 and then C to 2, subtract them, difference should be over .5VDC, if not we can talk termination switches.
I am a homeowner and recently installed a Goodman Heat pump (GSZC180241) and an auxiliary Gas Furnace (GMVC960603Bn). The system runs fine except the heat pump will not come below 41 degrees F. Instead the gas furnace comes on. I know the heat pump should be able to operate at lower temperatures, but my HVAC installer doesn't know how to adjust the point where the gas furnace takes over. He also tells me that the Goodman factory doesn't have any suggestions on how to do this. Can you help me with this issue?
Be happy to, on this system the thermostat would control the change over point, upstage and droop with the exception of the Daikin ONE thermostat that would function on balance point only. Please let me know what thermostat you are using and we will figure it out.
@@johnstonecg Thank you for your quick response. My thermostat is a White - Rodgers Emerson Blue Easy Reader 1F95EZ-0671. The following terminals are in use: C RH RC O/B W/E G Y.
@@BrianMoffatt-kf2dv Since you are using the O you are wired in HP mode and all the stage settings between HP and gas are controlled by the thermostat. That WR does not have an outdoor sensor and will not control the heat pump lockout by temperature, it also lacks precise staging control and any droop control. You can slow the rate of back up by going into setup for HP menu item 19 and move from 5 to a smaller number (start with 3 or 2). Sorry but that is the limit for that thermostat, the WR line i simplex but offers minimal control.
@@johnstonecg I may still have the option of switching thermostats. Is there another one that is especially suited to the Comfort Bridge system? I thought the advantage of the Comfort Bridge system was that it could be run by a simple thermostat?
@@BrianMoffatt-kf2dv It will run on any thermostat, even a on off light switch but you have limited control when to simplified. The Honeywell T6220 is are most popular thermostat for heat pumps. user interface is very simple and the set up gets complex as you want it do if needed. The T10 is not far behind that.
Is it possible to modify the staging settings? My 2-stage heat pump tends to go straight to stage 2 on cold mornings. I’d prefer that it ran in stage 1 and ran longer cycles.
If you have a heat pump thermostat (it will have an emergency heat settings) the settings would be in the thermostat. If your running a standard 1h1c thermostat (Goodman can run the heat pump with the W) you would need to set the CFS to 5. If it is at 5 then you can try changes to target (tgt) to 40 and over target threshold (ott) from 10 to 20. If you would like help with the thermostat just let us know the model.
@@johnstonecg Thanks, that's very helpful! I only have five wires to my Ecobee thermostat (R, C, G, W, and Y), so my understanding is that aux heating is controlled entirely by ComfortBridge. Does that sound correct?
@@jesssseg Yes so the upstages from stage 1 to 2 to back up are controlled by the algorithm in the board and the adjustments are made in the CFS settings. If you have the app on your phone the settings are a lot easier to adjust than push button but either will do. You can use the general setting or customize settings. just set your target to a longer time and the unit will not upstage as quick (gives low speed more time to satisfy thermostat). You may wish to extend the strikes to allow for more errors before it brings on stage 2 faster the next cycle.
@@johnstonecg Thank you so much! Far more helpful than my installer!
@@johnstonecg one more question you might know the answer to. Is outdoor temperature taken into account when ComfortBridge chooses which stage to use? My HP kicked on at 1:30 this morning and went straight to the second stage. The outdoor temperature was 34 degrees. This was about six hours after the previous run, so I don’t think that run would have affected the which stage was run.
Just some old greedy rich guy selling a product so his workers can go back to his warehouses to keep making him money. Wow. What a douche
I have a Goodman 4 ton condenser, and a 5 ton air handler. I'm trying to bring the humidity down. I don't have a heat. I scrolled to CAP. It showed 4 3 2 1. Which should I be on, what are the correct steps when pushing the buttons to slow down the variable speed fan so humidity goes down. Thanks for the help.
I don't have a heating element, I'm in Florida.
D would offer the profile best for removing latent heat (the humidity). If you are on a 9 speed we would need to view the model and ESP to review your CFM but if you scroll and see "ton" then your on a comfort bridge. You need to be 100% sure your on 4 ton or lower to have a chance of humidity removal, the ramp profiles slow the blower down by 7.5%, you can comfortably slow a 4 ton down to 4.8 and increase your latent removal with out threat to lowering super heat. All Goodman Units have the ability to control the blower using a de-humidistat to control the blower adjustment automatically with high humidity in the home and speed it back up when levels are comfortable. Look for your installation manual on line for information on the set up and if you feel its over your skill level contact a Dealer familiar with the equipment.