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IMO it is definitely a game changer and really cleans prints up nicely.

I've read that what you did works very well. My issue with cardboard most times is that when I receive the box from Amazon the cardboard is bent and then starts to wobble in the AMS. That happened last week with an Elegoo PETG I was using. I straightened it out but as it began rolling it caved in and tape or a plastic spool wrap wouldn't have helped the situation. This is for one offs, not gospel for everything I'm using. I'm not afraid to use good, round cardboard spools in the AMS because I will just clean it regularly.

Slice your part and after it is sliced you will have a slider bar on the right of the screen. Slide the dot with the plus sign down the bar to where you want to insert the pause and right click on the + and "Add Pause".

@@3DPrints747-ku2gm Thank you !!! I dealt with the pause. How can I register the extruder to move away from the model to insert a nut?

Look at my Twitter 3DPrints747 @timm747. I just reposted a tweet BambuLab just put out on inserting magnets. Should be the same process.

Do the research before you attempt anything with electricity. I followed a video that should be in the link in the description and have experience soldering/wiring things. This can end up really bad if you don't know what you are doing.

This is the first time I've heard of this technique. I tried the plastic rings on the cardboard edge and they ended up slipping and then cracking. I'll check this out, thanks.

I think it was a bug in the software. I printed it again a few months later and posted an updated video and it printed fine.

Thanks, I did see that after using it some more. I appreciate the comment/help!

Thanks!

Thanks!

It's not the first one I found, but it got really good reviews and I've used this stuff before on old printers. So I was familiar and comfortable going this route. It may not be for everyone and there are definitely other, possibly better options out there. But overall I'm happy with this. It has dramatically decreased the sound from the printer and it can now coexist in my office with the other printers I own.

Great idea!

Thank you!!!

Good idea, maybe I'll look into that. Have you done it?

If you are referring to the K2 Max, I really like it but I'm not going to lie and say its as easy to use as the BambuLab, but its not as bad as some may make it out to be. I'm happy with it overall.

Thanks, I didn't design the boxes, but put a link in the description to them for everyone to give the maker some props. :)

I made the mistake of leaving the lid open on the AMS for a few days and they jumped up to 23%. I'll be doing a video this week showing the color they changed to and swapping them out. Stay tuned... :)

I used Overture.

Thanks for the info. I really like it so far but would like to be able to change beds between printers in the Handy app.

Thanks, gonna give that a shot!!!

I use the same "food" dehydrator that I use to refresh my filament rolls... basically anything with sustained (not too high) heat will cause the moisture to evaporate out of desiccant which, like filament, causes it to "refresh" and work properly again.

I'm definitely going to have to try this again. Thanks!

All great points. I got the box and the insert to print great out of the gate. The lid was also a challenge for me. I flipped it on the plate and chose “auto-gen tree supports”. Fairly impressive considering there was a forest of tree’s, barely a mm high yet, the lid peeled off with no issues.

Nope, still trying lol.

:)

Thank you!

You're welcome!

.20 layer height.

I agree. When mine gets jammed I'm able to use my "Unclogger" and so far it has saved having to buy nozzles.

@@3DPrints747-ku2gm there is an "Unclogger" ?? I always take apart the whole print head, ending up holding the nozzle over a flame to get the jammed PLA out 😅

There is! Google it, I got mine on Amazon. It is around $20 and you heat up the hot end and just push the unclogger through to clear any clog you may have. So far it has worked great for me.

@@3DPrints747-ku2gm think I found it, it has a handle like a screw driver. is that one you use? thank you for pointing it out.

If the handle says Unclogger, then yes that is the one. When the K2 Max clogs, heat it up to 220, remove the top tube and run the Unclogger down through the nozzle.

I'll try to find that, thank you!

Good point, I didn't think of that!

Haha, thanks Joe!

You're welcome! It is pretty comfortable. I don't cosplay but wouldn't have a problem wearing it for a few hours. It isn't that flexible so a lower % infill would probably fix that. Shore hardness was 95A. Thanks for watching!

@@3DPrints747-ku2gm thanks for the reply! can't wait to try this out

@@missnikin You're welcome!

Thank you and its such an easy print! I also figured out where the cheek pieces go. I velcro'd them onto the sides of the eye pieces and they look great!

Thanks, I just watched the short. I tried 2 different filaments. Maybe I'll try again on a different printer and see what happens. I sliced it in Bambu. I printed it upside down because I didn't want to have to use supports.

I've been using Orca Slicer and have been happy with it. Thanks!

Thanks!

I'll check them out, thanks!

Thanks!

Easy print you should try it out!

Stay tuned, I have a Power Ranger helmet video dropping hopefully tomorrow night with my thoughts.

I don't power the machine off with TPU in the nozzle. When the print finishes I use the thumb lever that allows me to pull the TPU back out while the nozzle is still hot. I then either slide my "noclogger" through from the top or immediately feed filament back through to clean it out. So far, so good...

Roughly 39 hours and one roll of filament.

@@3DPrints747-ku2gm nice!

Thanks, I know there was a set that you could use where you measure your head and download the correct size one, but I couldn't find it. I'm going to have to dig deeper, maybe its on printables...

Thank you! I just sized and sliced a Black Ranger helmet from Dino Thunder. It's been on for about 4 hours. I'll post a video tomorrow and then again when it is finished. :) You'll really like the K2 Max!

Yeah, IDGI????

Thank you! It's been a while, but I think I used 25% infill and the only other thing I changed was Top Z Distance to .34 and Bottom Z Distance to .3 to make the supports easy to remove, since TPU has a tendency to weld to itself. Everything else was default with a .4 nozzle. I didn't change any default speed, just selected generic TPU and let the machine do the rest. :)

It is, but the ones I printed either cracked, slipped, or bent the cardboard trying to put them on. I printed 6 and ended up tossing them all the the recyling bin...

@@3DPrints747-ku2gm maybe they need to be scaled up. I gave a colleague with an AMS a spool of Polymaker and the STL, he printed the rim in TPU and used the spools without issues

I'm not sure what you mean "skin". This was printed in place like this. The back has fold lines that I followed, along with a paper guide from ThinkFun. :)

@@3DPrints747-ku2gm I watched a video where the dragon texture (Skin) was put on the other side of the model, idk tho

On the far Green horitzonal layer progress bar on the right you'll see the pause marked with II. click on the green + next to the left of the pause mark , not the II and you'll be able to "Delete Pause".

I'm happy with it overall. It definitely has some quirks I'm still working out. I want to print a helmet on it to see how it does, so stay tuned...

Put it this way. I’m sick of waiting for bambu to come out with a large format, would u buy it again? lol

I would definitely buy it again. However if/when BL comes out with a larger bed Core xy printer, I will be selling it to put towards the BL.

So what u r saying then is I should wait beings I got p1s and a a1 mini. lol. Thanks for responding

That's good info. I'll definitely look into it! Thanks!!!

What are your sources for this information? I'm interested. The more I get into 3d printing the more I want to learn about various aspects of mechanical engineering as it applies to printing