Видео

Hi man, I have the solution. I don’t know English but… You need to download the software that comes configured for your model with BL touch. not the bl touch filament, but the one that says only bl touch. I don't have the bl touch but when downloading the bl touch the error you have appeared, perhaps having the model with bl touch you only need that update and not the other two which are the same version but for different extra accessories

Seems like a faulty ground or faulty battery connection

hello do you have stl for that discs? great video

the reason it turns back to the starting point at the end is you have that option picked in the rotary setup page.

Hey great demo, I do have a question. How does it know how much to rotate to do the next item? Do you figure it out and enter that somewhere as well? Thank you!

thank you for sharing. Great video.

Is this why when I go into reverse I have to give it a ton of gas to move the car? It always results in a jump or forceful thrust when trying to back it out of my enclosed trailer

What laser do you have ?

Good video do you have a link for a store ? do you sell the 3D printed jig's that you made ?

Do you have the 3d print files you can share for the jigs?

Thank you so much! I have spent hours trying to get my rotary to work and could not. I had the Enable Rotary on. I shut it off as you discribed and it works great now. You're the best.

Did you try upgrading firmware?

Hey Dennis , i have the same issue , went out and bought a new primary clutch for almost $500.00 thinking that was the problem . So the same thing when it got hot , broke the cable trying to force it into gear . I just watched your video yesterday , and immediately went to work on it , sanding the towers down as you said . I kept the cover off , let it run and get hot . Had to do that several times , it is much better than it was , still sticking very little . So , i'm going to drive it around to see if it'll work itself in . Thanks for the first video , what ever happened to the second one , couldn't find out your results . Thanks again , it's guys like you that help frustrated guys like me .😜

Thats kinda incorrect. My friend is a artic cat mechanic and he fixed my wildcat with the hot no shift issue. Its the black bushings that slide on the posts you said to sand. If you take you clutch apart and measure the black hockey puck looking slide bushings, they are all a different thickness( the build tolerances are too large). You need to sand these down as they are a wear item and cost less to replace. I believe my friend was 1 of the first to fix this as it was early 2016 that he repaired mine and called the head office who said the only fix was a new clutch and I didnt keep my warranty so he saved me big coin.

Good to know….I’ve not experienced this issue or seen that on my XX! Ive had it over a year now…I’ll definitely check it periodically! Maybe just some bad lemon primary clutches!

Do you have any video updates on ot being fixed or from the lack of videos mean it didn't fix it

Wildcat Trail 700 clutch question to Dalton: Please help me understand, I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around this. Bigger weights engage clutch at lower RPM? It seems to me that more weight would require higher RPM to engage as it takes more energy to get the increased weight to move. Is it because more centrifugal force is needed to use lighter weight to force clutch to engage, even though they move sooner? I have stock wheels and it says use the second largest weight. I want the clutch to begin to engage at a lower RPM. Dalton technician reply: Well, ..you are wrong. Lol Heavier weights overcome the pressure of the spring easier and engage sooner. ..however....and as you will see in the instructions, it is the primary spring that is the principal control of engagement rpm...not the flyweights. The weights control the rate of shift of the belt going down the track(and thus the rpm during the main clutching phase) It is all there. Some of the pages that look boring are the most important. The kit engages slightly lower rpm than stock anyway.. however the most important aspects of the kit are much more than that. The kit has to be set as described in the instructions for each tires size (because of course, that is the test results) Thanks My reply to Dalton: Thank you for your immediate reply. I did replace my Wildcat original clutch parts with Dalton’s and used the recommend 3/4” weights. I may not have even needed the Dalton kit, but am not by any measure upset that I purchased and installed it. If you look at this video you will see the problem that I am certain was the major problem with my clutch: m.ruclips.net/video/4pwM26rOico/видео.html I had to use a file to hack off a huge chunk a metal from each of these six glide surfaces in twelve steps, then use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the rails until I ended up with a 0.02” slide clearance. Previously, quite literally the clutch would not move without hammering it. No wonder it would not shift, and it lurched at high RPM when engaging into gear. I’m surprised it worked at all. I bought it used with 6 miles on it, and never liked the way it shifted. I was told by several people who should have known better it was normal, but I had a feeling otherwise, and it got progressively worse with use. So by buying your kit, it forced me to find the solution, additionally I benefited from the upgrades. Now my Wildcat drives much more like I expected it should. Now I move the shifter with ease and do not have to force it and worrying that I am going to break something. Additionally, now I give it a little gas and it moves a little bit, not revving the engine and the cat jumping quickly and with great force forward or reverse; with the need to cover and slam on the brakes before it crashed into something; and it got much worse when it warmed up. By the way, all I needed to do the upgrade was a bench vice, a 7/16” 15” threaded rod, a block of wood with a 1/2” hole in the center, a 1” x 3.5” x 1/4” piece of aluminum with a 1/2” an offset center hole, a 2” PVC pipe coupler, a washer or two, and a 7/16” nut (all things I had sitting around the house); plus a primary clutch puller (definitely recommended). Remove clutches. Clamp the rod into the vice, slip the wood over the rod (to cushion the delicate clutch parts), slip the clutch onto the rod, place the 2” PVC coupler on (fits perfectly over secondary bell - holding down collar), next the metal plate (offset hole allows easier viewing when reassembling primary), washer(s), and nut; good to go! Again, thank you for all of your help. I’m sure the kit added to the smoothness of the shifting, and it definitely is responsible for my identifying the problem.

Thanks for video. I am starting to have some issues with my 2014. Not used much but it's getting to where it doesn't switch out of low or reverse while running it seems grabby at idle. looking forward to the update video.

I did this to my parents... sanded down aluminum for hours with sand paper and emory cloth. Then would reinstall and test. I also added some bikeman springs for 80ish dollars which helped with the engagement, now it doesnt feel like I'm an astronaut being propelled into orbit when the clutch engages. Your video was helpful, I was close to buying a new clutch, the previous owners had already replaced it once, but i figured 1600 miles was way to low to be on the third clutch. So, just to say what I did for someone else, or to compare notes, I took the clutch apart like you did, sanded it down for many hours until i could slide it freely, then installed and test drove it. The clutch would still stick and walk a bit, so I repeated the process. And repeated it another 2 times. I also bought a dry lube and applied that hoping it would help the buttons move with less friction. Took it for a ~20 mile ride with many stops to see if was sticking or not and to shift it through the gears. It would walk near the end a bit, but only a little bit, it was like the belt would try to engage 2 or 3 times before giving up. I could probably sand it once more, but I think I'll just role with it. Hopefully this helps someone.

Do you have an update for this? My cousin has a fair amount of time into his parents trying to make it work better.

Did it work? Did you use light grease after sanding? Same issue on my 2015

No wonder flying cars aren't for sale yet!!!

I just got a phantom, I don't think ill ever use autopilot

Usr errr?

I would have stopped that mission soon as it started. Fuckin drone was all over the place

why is the drone going all over the place??

wow! Off course you not love your drone! this is just a drone with chip and no Brain. ..1st avoidance, 2nd, 3th and then CRAH.... I n e v i t a b i l e

What mode on Autopilot were you using?

it sounds like your prop was out the wrong way...

The guys at Event38 are awesome.. Great support and a great product. Sure, you can build it yourself and even put in top of the line components for the same price if not a little cheaper but... You don't get a fully assembled, tested and tweaked aircraft.. That was worth a lot considering I've crashed 3 that I built prior to buying theirs.. I wasn't happy with the components they used to be honest. Seemed like the very cheapest they could get their hands on.. $20 motor from Hobby King, $3 servo's, $10 ESC, etc.. But at the end of the day, theirs flew, mine didn't.. lol I have since perfected building my own, but that came with a huge expense from crashing.. Its all part of the fun.. isn't it? The support I got from Event38 was great though, I learned tons.. that alone was worth the investment.. I did eventually crash theirs, the 3DR Ardupilot gave out and it went nose in.. Not their fault.. 3DR did replace the Ardupilot though, but not the plane and $400 digital camera.. :(

Hi Dennis, Can you share some details related you experience with the plane from Event38. I would like to buy one also and I would be very interested to find out some info from someone who test it. Thanks a lot.