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@@domcastle1 runners to the floor 👌

Yeah, it's heat reflective wrap, it also just looks cool 😎

@TGBuild270 it's pretty sick. I just started building up mine for Time Trials in my local racing area. My first track day was last week. It performed well, but there's some tweaking that needs to happen. I'm buying what I can afford in order of importance, so I think coilovers and bushings will be my first "after race adjustment"

Yea just stock, I'll like to hard mount the engine if I'm honest, along with poly bush the suspension. It's a track car so no need for comfort. It has a triple pass alloy rad, I run stay frosty coolant and have removed all the air box, ecu and just box. I've also recently vented the bonnet. She never gets hot

It's just about the most fun I've ever had in a car, and I've owned a few..

I'd like to do thruxton but I think these tyres have 1 last track day in them before I go cage and slicks. Combe next month? Thruxton in May?

Yea, it seemed to get better through to day, gunna give it another track day to bed in and if its still doing it I'll have to investigate

Thanks man, that s2000 was quick fair play, I did try to stick with him for a couple of laps but was having to push to hard. Pembrey next, on the 8th!

I actually do! The seat rail is broken, unfortunately. Fair play for noticing that though

He's not flat shifting

My lap times were consistently better by around a second. Plus I have about 30hp not being used because I'm not reving it over about 7.5k Clutch is slipping a bit, I don't know if its because its all new or if there's something getting on it.

Yea it feels like it's going to go really well when I start reving it out

The 5.8 crown and pinion came from Australia. I had to get it imported.

@@TGBuild270 How can I get one ,from who?

@dmarshall34 I got mine off an Australian company that I found on ebay. I've checked and it seems they're no longer trading there. Hit Google and I'm sure you'll find someone selling the part online.

Thanks man, much appreciated. To be fair the 5.3 is probably the better option, I just like to go a little extreme where possible. Yea the diff had to be shimmed a bit. No I don't intend to race it I don't think, I just like mine to be the crazy track car that it is (I'm not a very good driver) I just get out a few times a year to have some fun.

Awesome information, thanks buddy 👌 I did hear that the 4 port is better for boosting

@@TGBuild270 It just less involved, less variables. Probably more like an REW 13b engine apart from the side exhaust ports, but I'm no expert.

@@TGBuild270 what suspension upgrades have you got for the track, uprated anti roll bars are one of the most cost effective upgrades for the 8(whiteline or racing beat)

@paulvernon4160 smae here pal, first rotary, just figuring it out as I go. Comments like yours are a big help though so it's much appreciated 👍

@paulvernon4160 hsd monopro coilovers. No arb's yet, it's definitely high on the list though. Was looking at the white lines

Nope, no tuning necessary. The ecu will compensate when you get enough miles into it

@@TGBuild270 interesting 🤔 I know you can teach the engine maps and reset them yes, but I thought you get far better results by just tuning it and also tuning the cool braps while your at the tuner 🤷‍♂️ would love to see the power differences with and without tune.

@MassiveDrop this one braps with not tuning. Ecu is completely stock, never been plugged it. I imagine you can squeeze a few hp out of the top end with a map but I'm very much a "mazda knows best" when it comes to these engines. Well see how it is on track and if I think I'm leaving something on the table I'll get ut tuned and see how that goes

@@TGBuild270 the ECU needs to be configured.

I just opened the butterfly, popped a bit or cloth on there and bent it with a pliers. It does require a little bit of time as it'll need several adjustments to get it where you want it. Hope this helps 👌

@@TGBuild270 hey, thank you for gettng back. Makes sense ill give it a go. When the adjustment was too much how did you know? Obviously it being to little it will do the same but being tok much would it stay started? Thanks

@joflexx.. it'll idle to high, the problem is the ecu does take time to adjust so adjust it to roughly where it idles nice then go drive it for a few miles, let it idle for 10 minutes, switch it in and off a few time and it'll probably change, then adjust it up or down as need and repeat

@@TGBuild270 hey, youre a legend thank you! I will give it a go!! Keep up the good work cant wait to see it on track

I'll give you the same advice my farther and brothers gave me when I said I wanted to be a mechanic. Don't do it! If cars are something you genuinely enjoy and want to get into, do it as a hobby, if you make it you're job you'll learn to hate it.

Unfortunately I use thruxton circuit, it had a 90 dB noise limit so all that exhaust is very necessary. Coils are OEM, yes. 5.8 is very low, it will put my top speed around 130 but that's enough for most of the UK tracks I use

@@TGBuild270 it explains everything! Good luck!

It was just cheap universal grill off ebay

It has a 5.8 to 1 rear diff aswell, I'll definitely get some acceleration videos posted soon

Have about 8 trackbdays booked this year so don't worry, you'll see it on track very soon

@@TGBuild270 look forward to it I'll send you mine

Who cares it braps everyone forgets they weren’t a high horsepower car anyways a Honda civic single cam makes same damn horse power but it don’t brap lmfao braps are cooler slow or fast

Yea, it's a renesis. I used OEM apex seals.

Alot of useful information there, cheers buddy. Thanks for the compliments 👌

I don't paint cars for a living, sorry mate. This was just a favour for my dad.

I missed the one under the starter 🙄

Potentially zero. If it'll flow a little more air though the ecu will compensate with more fuel. Really, the effort probably isn't worth the result, but I enjoyed the process none the less.

I bet it would sound pretty mental with ITB. I'm not even sure you'd lose massive power on the top end. You'd definitely lose mid range and low end torque though

What does that even mean? What are you saying?

The oil pump pulls engine oil from the sump and injects it onto the apex seals as the move around the rotor housing. You can buy a kit to remove the OMP and replace it with a separate tank that's filled with 2 stroke oil.

Long story, I met a guy at thruxton that builds rotary engines. Went to see his work shop a few weeks after and then dropped my am engine for rebuild.