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@@unduckz666 Thanks for the feedback. Modern afx bodies using original 1970’s manufacturing tooling are sold by Auto world and XTraction brands. I have a mix of my original AFX cards and modern bodies..

@@karlku5835 thanks for the feedback! To cut the square vent holes, I used to jigsaw but first drilled quarter inch holes in the corners of the traced out square. That allows you to get the jigsaw blade through the plastic and have straight line cuts for nice square corners. For the exhaust pipe flange , I used a hole saw from Amazon kit Luckyway 17-Piece Hole Saw Kit, Hole Saw Set a.co/d/8SYz9er. The black gate requires a 6 inch holesaw which I don’t have as the kit only goes up to 5 inch circles. So I just traced the circle and carefully cut out with a jigsaw.

Incorrect. The Bonus game works like this: frames 1 thru 7 a strike is worth 30 points and a spare is worth 20 points on the regular score reels and the bonus reel. Frames 8 thru 10 strikes are worth 60 points and spares are worth 40. 1 - 10 frames if you don't mark, you only get the value of the pins knocked down. During frames 1 - 10, the bonus reel accumulates 40 for each strike and 20 for each spare. Then, after all 10 frames are completed, the player gets a "Bonus Frame". In this frame, the player gets two balls. If they strike, they get 100% off all points accumulated on the bonus reel throughout the game. If they spare, they get 50% of the bonus point. If they fail to mark, they get zero points from the bonus reel. So, if a play throws all strikes, their maximum score would be (frames 1-7) 210 + (frames 8-10) 300 + (Bonus Frame) 480 = Total score of 990 If that same player throws all strikes but spares on the bonus frame, their total score would be 210 + 300 + 240 = 750 If that same player fails to mark in the bonus frame, then their total score would be 210 + 300 + 0 = 510 This game is really fun since a player with a good score thru 10 frames can be defeated by a player(s) with lesser scores if those players throw well in the bonus frame but the best scorer in frames 1-10 misses during the bonus frame. Lots of loud screaming in the bonus frame during parties with 6 player games going on! Fun game. Sold it to a collector in San Antonio in early 2023 that also bought my restored Williams Pinch Hitter Deluxe.

@@akoporc Oh, Okay. Back in the 90s, I went through a 1954 United Puck (8" Pins) for a Friend, and it's only game was Bonus. The rule set is probably the same as you described, but I couldn't quite remember. I do remember I did like its game play. In storage, I have a 1962 United Silver which is a roll down bowler. It has multiple games including Bonus. Although I added on, I still don't have space for the Silver, but one of these days I'll be going through it Today, I happen to be repairing one of the target flaps on a 1955 United Venus Target Shuffle..

Whatever the square footage of your shed footprint. My sheds base is 3 ft. 8 in. x 5 ft. 11 in.

@@amelliamendel2227 check this vid for sound reduction results ruclips.net/video/luAWRXmicG4/видео.htmlsi=qb5UOF9jQ2VjZ7lb

@@KenForbes-de3rf specs for the silver board can be found here www.amvicsystem.com/products/hd-foam/silverboard/#about-silverboard

@@KenForbes-de3rf the main purpose of the silver board is for sound deadening, and heat reflection away from the plastic walls

Click on the video description “…more” and expand the inventory list there. Thanks!

@@dutchless7794 KEN BROWN 12 Inch Shutter Exhaust Fan Wall Mounted,Aluminum with 1.65 Meters Power Cord Kit,High Speed 1800CFM,Vent fan for Commercial,Greenhouse,Attic,Shed,Shop. See summary notes for amazon link.

No issues. It would need to be at least 365° to melt the rubber. If it ever got that hot, The shed and many generator plastic components would have already melted.

a.co/d/4ppivAh a.co/d/3CO8xrV (Home depot might have the same thimble cheaper price)

That’s part of the 1975 AFX Jackie Stewart volcano lava sot car set that was prototyped, but never sold due to potential melting hazard. The Easy Bake Oven playset was canceled shortly after.

That was a real good catch. I watched the video closely and did see it was not negative. I just set up the unit and tested the same car and got the same results. I was stumped, when the car was sitting on the platform, but the pin was not in the hole, I got a negative reading, but when the pin was in the hole, I got a positive reading. A little thought and examination, I realize that this particular car used a non-OEM pin, which seems to be just a little bit longer than an OEM AFX pin. Long enough to actually be touching the top of the plate so it was pushing the plate down counteracting the car magnets trying to pull the plate up!

No need to anchor. There is pretty heavy. Plus, the rubber mat gives it some extra grip.

The exhaust flexpipe from the generator rest inside the double wall pipe. Pull out of the wall as it slides inside the bigger pipe.

I have the same issue with my 50amp cord. I have to bend the cable around the wheel. I keep my 50amp cable in my house so if it cold outside when the generator is needed, the cable is pretty flexible. I thought about getting smaller diameter wheels but after running the generator for 6-8 days during power outages, there were no issues with the cable kinking.

Thanks! Remember NOT to use the 3M fire caulk around the thimble because it’s not waterproof and will dissolve in the rain. Use regular outdoor caulk. Check out my zombie power box performance test for effectiveness of the shed..

check out the complete build inventory list and build hints and tips in the build video: ruclips.net/video/fxRTMOkpyrM/видео.html the exhaust build method and parts list can be found there.

Thanks!

Hand held jigsaw. Drill 1/2 inch hole near the corn er of your square mark off and then insert the jigsaw blade and cut on the line. I drilled 4 holds in the corners and then just ran the jigsaw from one corner to the next corner. Very easy to do.

Use a cut off wheel to trim off about an inch to an inch and a half off each thimble insert so that when they’re slid together, they but up against each other at the 2 inch distance.

@@akoporc Ok thanks.

Lol...yeah it may look that way. That's not my house, that's my shed in the very back of the yard. It may be confusing since everything is bigger in Texas. Thanks for checking out the video. The follow up shed performance video shows the exhaust exit in detail behind the shed. ruclips.net/video/luAWRXmicG4/видео.html

Yup, I was not aiming for a watertight soundproof box. Sound reduction and critter blocking are two key goals. Note that the 6" hole is a blast door that slides up and down so it is bug proof when closed which is a key goal of the build. No impact on sound when the generator is not running. Yes, when the shed is running the door will have a slight opening to account for the cable but in most cases, I am running the shed in wintertime when bugs are dormant. Small critters won't enter with the generator running. As for 6" of no foam insulation, it does not have much on the sound. Check out the Shed Performance video for details on sound impact. studio.ruclips.net/user/videoluAWRXmicG4/edit

It's the exhaust that makes the noise, not so much the generator.

Check the performance vid. Only a few decibels louder than an HVAC condenser.

For performance results, watch this follow up: ruclips.net/video/luAWRXmicG4/видео.html The location is in the furthest corner for my and my 3 neighbors' yards. The "house" that you are referring to is my shed which acts like a giant muffler by having the sound be absorbed by the fence ally way behind the shed.

@akoporc thank you for the quick response, I didn't realize you had a space behind the shed. It looked from this video that it was a pretty closed corner. Not as bad as I thought.

@akoporc if you have natural gas that's acceptable you might want to consider running a gas line to it. That way you don't have to worry about getting the propane tank filled.

I agree that the shed is not perfectly “airtight” sealed. The goal was to seal up lower points of entry so that animals, rodents large insects or ants would have a much harder time getting into the shed when snooping around the shed from the ground level. When I test ran the generator in June to charge the battery, and just keep things limber, the only thing in the shed were a few spiders and their victims. Trying to keep out chewing critters or nesting, bees or wasps are the top priority.

Extending the exhaust pipe, a few feet at the same diameter, should not create back pressure. My understanding is that when you use much longer pipe and route it vertically with 90 degree angle fitting and/or using a muffler at the end of any exhaust extension, that could change the back pressure and engine tuning.

Check out the Zombie Power Box performance test video. It has lots of sound test data! ruclips.net/video/luAWRXmicG4/видео.html

Thanks!

Thanks!

104 degrees should be well within the temperature tolerance of your generator's engine and the electrical generator. 120 is the upper limit of heat where you can damage the piston rings and/or the generator bearings/internals. That is why I installed the temp safety switch (see comments below for details) Ensure that you wrapped the exhaust extension with heat wrap tape. In my performance test video, the temperature of the engine exhaust vent with the heat gun measured over 300 degrees with the tape on. Also, make sure that you have the generator power switch on so the exhaust fan is running and cycling air thru the shed box (I know, Captain Obvious stuff but if your just testing shed temp and not actually using any tools, appliances during your test, you may have forgot to activate the power switch. I know, because I did this exact thing!) Another Houstonian commented below that they used a larger exhaust fan, that might help. My shed is in the shade. If yours is in direct sunlight, close the shed and don't run the generator. See how hot your shed gets when sitting in the sun and closed. My guess is that the shed will be hotter than the outside temp. That should be your baseline and then check the temp when the generator is running with the shed closed. Try running the generator in the shed with the lid or the doors partially open and see if you get the 104 temperature reading to drop. I would open the lid and the doors all the way and put using your same temperature measuring tool/method and see what the temp rating is just to get a baseline. Remember, you need to measure the temperature of the air in the shed, not the generator. The generator will be hotter than the outside temperature due to it creating its own heat. If your shed/generator runs at a stable 104 degrees, you should be good to go. If the temperature outside is in the 90s and your shed is in full sun, you may need to run it with the lid or doors ajar.

@@akoporc correct 104 should be okay but it's running in the shed about 118. when your shed is all closed up and you ran it for 5 hours what's the temperature inside your shed?

@@MrJett111 that was back in the ice storm in February, so the temperature outside was below freezing

www.homedepot.com/p/Suncast-Stow-Away-3-ft-8-in-x-5-ft-11-in-Resin-Horizontal-Storage-Shed-BMS4700/204508963

Remember NOT to use the 3m fireproof calk. Is is not water resistant and will dissolve in the rain. Use regular outdoor calk to seal the timbal around the shed wall.

Thanks!

For performance results, watch this follow up: ruclips.net/video/luAWRXmicG4/видео.html