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You’re not wrong. This new fuel is highly corrosive to just about anything. Eating tank linings, plastic, rubber, steel…. It’s crazy how bad it is.

I have an OTC Genisys scan tool. It’s older, but has the hook ups I need to do these Ford trucks.

Anywhere I can find them. The recent replacements have come from rock auto. I had a bad one that they had to replace, but there is a company called ECU Exchange that can rebuild yours for you, and has a good reputation.

Shooting and editing videos is a full time job sometimes. It takes a lot of planning and thought to figure out what is going on besides what you’re already doing! Thank you for the praise! I’m happy that you’re moving forward on your restoration, as it takes a lot of time and motivation to even do that. Keep up the progress!

Thank you! I’m hoping that the channel continues to grow and that it can continue to provide quality content and information.

The pedal makes a difference for sure, if you're unable to find a pedal, you can modify your own! I made a video covering the process. ruclips.net/video/8-dnrQf9VjEh/видео.htmlttps://ruclips.net/video/8-dnrQf9VjE/видео.html

04 and older don’t mix with 05+. So not really.

Yes. It is. It’s been a minute since I made this video so I don’t know what you’re referencing to.

That could be very difficult. I don’t think they changed the hole size for the poly tanks. But finding one that’ll plug in will be a challenge.

@@GarrettsOBSGarage lol my wiring harness was already butchered, it’s just 2 wire with bullet connectors, and as far as I know, only one was plugged in, and my fuel gauge still worked

At that point. I don’t really have any suggestions for you. Never know what some people have done to a truck before you’ve gotten it!

Hahahaah. Yes. She’s awesome.

The pedal makes a huge difference!!

I’ve always done 1/8” toe in. And I have the trucks set at 4.5° negative caster if possible. Otherwise, the factory spec is around 2° negative. If you’re wandering bad, you may have something worn out like a steering box.

The harness you’re looking for is part of the drivers door. It’s not a secondary harness. The drivers door plugs into the cab harness, and then also the passenger door. So, if you’ve got a truck and want to add power doors, buying the doors should give you everything you need. Unless you’ve got a 96 or 97, then you’ve also got to buy a cab harness.

I was really bummed out because I just got the smaller DeWalt rivet tool for my door handle reinforcement plate and I thought I was golden until I saw how massive the door lock actuator rivet was. Poor DeWalt tool doesn't go up to 1/4 rivets.

I wish I had an air rivet gun, since I do a lot of this myself. I use the 1/4” rivets more than I use anything else, so it was a no brainer to buy the bigger one. Glad this video can help you out!

The rear doors can be a real pain! When hinges fail, they only cause more problems over time, so it’s very important to repair them. As you found out!

I did not. I’ve been trying to put together a kit to buy and I just haven’t had the time to do it.

It’s a unique truck for sure! Invention is the mother of necessity.

Thank you! Sadly, it sounds like just about every other 7.3 in the world. haha

I would suggest you familiarize yourself with the power probe before using it. They can damage circuits easily if you aren't familiar with their workings. You apply power and ground with the probe, which lets you run the motor since its reversing polarity to make the window go up or down. So, you apply power to one wire, and ground to the other for the window to go up, reverse the power and ground and the window goes down.

Yeah. Gotta be ready for the kick! And the rear doors suck to work with. That’s for sure!

Because of corrosion. The location of the bulb sockets in these trucks gets a lot of dirt accumulation from water spray. Bare copper wire doesn’t like water spray, especially when it has salt mixed in. Any opportunity to avoid corrosion should be taken. I’ve done my fair share of chasing problems due to people who have spliced into wiring on the exterior of vehicles. I’ve even seen properly sealed splices fail due to corrosion, so I refuse to splice outside the truck unless absolutely necessary.

@@GarrettsOBSGarage Makes sense, though that could vary by location. I know corrosion is horrible in the mid-eastern states.

Corrosion is a possibility anywhere. Water corrodes copper. Salt and chemicals only accelerate it.

The rear doors suck for sure. Thanks for the kind words, I hope these videos help guys out!

It’s been some time since I’ve been in a newer truck. But it feels pretty good in this truck. I’ve been told the newer the box the better the feel, but the newer the box the bigger it gets too.

Easy is a relative term haha

I wanna say it still worked

@@GarrettsOBSGarage 😱🤯

Its a smell you cant ever forget!

Thank you! I really do try to make an informative video, that presents decently, that also isn't riddled with ads. Its a rare color, thats for sure. I am glad you're enjoying and utilizing the videos! Thats why they are there. As for organization, it can be a real pain sometimes, and when you're trying to assemble a truck, then trying to tear it back down quick, it doesn't take long to get disorganized fast. The key is just staying on top of stuff as you go, and trying to have isolated areas for each truck.

Absolutely. It’s great for when using a torch can cause fires or explosions. Such as around carpet, or fuel lines and tanks etc. They aren’t cheap, but if you’re going to use it a lot, it’s worth it.

You’re very welcome!

I don’t have one off hand, however, I’ve tried finding one for my truck which is the same, and was unable to. I’ll try and do more digging, but I came up short last time sadly.

I have an email in the about area of channel, I don’t post it in the comments to avoid spam and scammers. The wiring schematic for the headlights should have been in the video if I’m not mistaken, it’s been a minute since I posted it.

I wasn’t too happy, that’s for sure. Thankfully I’ve encountered this before, so I knew what to look for when I wasn’t getting the adjustment I needed.

you’re not wrong! But it can throw you for a loop when stuff won’t move right!

@GarrettsOBSGarage yep. I'm glad I was working with my body shop owner, buddy. He knew why and the solution. Thanks for the reply

The Cervini’s brand is my go to. They fit the best. And that’s what this one is

The gaps on these trucks are not so good from the factory. Then, add 25 years of truck life. When we did my rockers I had the same issue. Same solution. Mine was just the passenger side. Since I'm the original owner, I can clearly remember several times on windy days in parking lots and out on the beach fishing with my kids where the passengers door was ripped out of my kids hands by a strong wind gust. With that amount of leverage pushing on the hinges, you would think there would be more damage. Easy fix but time-consuming and tedious. Excellent video, Garrett. Thanks for taking the time to make it. 🤙✌️

@@RockyRaccoon3281 you’re not wrong! But it can throw you for a loop when stuff won’t move right!

Yeah, the short trucks make it difficult to mount those filters!

Depends on who's got it. If someone knows what it is, and has all the bits 100-150. If someone just wants it gone, probably 20-50, but if someone is proud of it, I can only imagine...

I am glad it is going to help you out! This is probably the cheapest way to do the swap, and realistically, its not as hard as some guys make it out to be.

Thanks for watching! The vice setup works great there and doesn’t move at all. I’ve had horrible issues with the factory fuel system over the years and the EFUEL is the solution to a lot of those issues! I’ve never had an issue with cold starting with the Efuel, a truck with a healthy glow plug system and lighter oil and solid injectors will fire every time. I’ve had my truck start at 10 below without issues in the past. Once the oil is warmed up, it’ll run better, since the oil is more problematic than the fuel. The heater realistically just keeps untreated fuel from gelling, but once it’s gelled, it’s a problem anyway and the heater is only on when the truck is on.

Do a shorter belt. The issue at hand is, you have to have the right tensioner. If you have the updated duallie tensioner, you’re SOL as no belts fit. And I had that problem with the short tensioner as well.

My dad’s 97 also has the aluminum intake. I was not overly pleased with the kit. It didn’t fit well. It makes it difficult to install the bumper. Or even adjust the core support. I had less of an issue with installing a custom made kit from a later model 7.3 using parts that were never made for the OBS truck.

Depending on what needs to go where. There’s a pile of adjustments to make. It could be as simple as the fender being shimmed. Or since you’ve done the core, you may need to re shim the core.

I haven't driven this truck much at all, since it's not anywhere near completely ready to go, but on the other truck I did this to, I've logged about 250,000 miles on that since the swap. An RSK with SD springs on OBS axles does not compare to the 05+ swap in terms of braking, steering, or handling. Even the 05+ swapped 1999 truck I did was a lot better. The owner said it drives like a brand new truck. He's had quite a few newer Fords, so he'd know.

​@@GarrettsOBSGarage Sweet, thanks for the info. I am going to go ahead with the 05 option ! Your channel is a wealth of knowledge. Im almost through all the videos .. I have done a lot of research but I still think I have two questions, if you have a second - I am going to try to do this on the cheap, but that being said I still need custom parts such as the 05 compatible pitman arm and track bar mount. I think those are two things i cant get around (unless you have any suggestions). It says the track bar and pitman arm on RYD is set up for 0"-3" so i think that should work with the stock track bar ? I guess there is only one way to find out for sure.. Secondly is if you have ever done this with a zf-5 ? They say you need to buy a replacement cross member but its I would like to make my own or cut up the existing one, the $630 seems overpriced Thanks !

I believe I have the pitman arm you need. I’d have to look in my stash of parts, but I want to say I bought one or two and then went to the SD box. I can look if you want me to and I’d sell it for less than what you’d pay for a new one. As far as the track bar mount, the SKY one was probably the best bet back when I made this video, but as I hear it RYD has improved their process. The SKY one is setup to use the original track bar but only if you use their buckets which add 1” of lift. I used the RYD and I had a 0”-3” adjustable track bar on a 2” lift and I had to shorten my track bar for some reason with their track bar mount on OEM buckets. So, if you use the OEM 05+ buckets, you’ll NEED an adjustable track bar for lowered applications unless you do at minimum a 1” lift on SKY. If you go more than 1”, you’ll need an adjustable track bar for a 0”-whatever (lifted). I don’t know what the RYD would need, and the best bet is to call and ask them. I had a ZF truck here last week with the RYD crossmember in it. I didn’t install it, but the guy who did said it sucked to get all lined up, but it’s very engineered and looked decent and fit nice. You can try and build your own, but you have to completely move it out of its original position and have a way to make something structural to hold the transmission and also avoid other things like the driveshaft and exhaust. So, while the crossmember is a little pricey, it’s probably worth the money once you factor in the headache of trying to build your own and make sure you have proper height, and alignment, and clearance. The issue is, the radius arm mounts occupy the same space as the ZF crossmember, so you have to move it to a totally different spot.

I appreciate the positive feedback also! I’m glad it can help you out!

​@@GarrettsOBSGarage Definitely a lot of help, i really appreciate your videos, and your responses ! RYD claims the track bar mount works with 0-3" so i think i will try that, the BDD has adjustments built into the mount which may be handy. I think i will try to keep my costs down by avoiding buying a track bar I think my best options are RYD or Blowing Diesel, They both have good reviews and are easier to import into Canada. They both claim to work with 0-3" lift so thats what im after. I would be very interested in buying the pItman arm, name your price ! Is there a good way we can message ? or an email i can contact you at ?

Shoot me an email. It’s in the about section of my channel!

Awesome! Glad it helped you out.

Crew cab short bed 97 f250hd diesel should be 16 gallon metal front tank and the 19 gallon metal rear tank. I need to remove my filler necks and mod them for better flow I can barely get any fuel in the truck right now. Also need to replace the selector valve. I'm considering a universal filler neck kit because all of the filler necks I can find say they are for the gas engine. Why are there so many combinations on these trucks. 3 different cabs 2 different beds like 5 different gas tanks and sending unit setups 😂 it's out of control.

Someone had too much free time at the engineering desk. Haha. I’ve seen the inside fill hose break off and it won’t let fuel go in because the air coming out makes an air bubble. If that’s the case, it’s “repairable” depending on where the inner hose is broken. Buy an OEM valve. It’s worth it. The aftermarket ones are cheaper, but fail quickly.

@@GarrettsOBSGarage will do on the OEM valve. Appreciate that advice. I'll be stoked if I can fix the filler necks. I'll take them out and remove that outter hose to see where the hold up is. While they're out I saw this dude drilled out his fill port vent area with additional venting holes and he was very happy with the results.

Sending units will be soon after I get the refueling sorted out but no need to drop the tanks for this first step of exploratory surgery. Appreciate the advice again brother thank you!!

I feel like it is there for a reason. It's only on the crew cabs, and the cabs are fairly heavy compared to the other variations.