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To answer that I would need to run some tests. Main reasons I don’t use that filter is: 1) its very loud, cant work in that room (main reason). 2) it creates very strong air circulation inside of the enclosure, which is good for PLA and AllPHA but bad for ABS/ASA.

PTFE tube comes with an enclosure. Can also come in handy if you like to feed your filament directly from dry box for instance. It is an easy aftermarket upgrade with festo adapter if needed. By default MK4 doesn’t come with PTFE tube because filament is fed from the top of printer - in that case it is not required.

It’s an optional upgrade. With time you will see some filament residue build up on heater block, silicone sock prevents filament from sticking to it basically. It’s a cheap upgrade which makes sense if you’re using Prusa nozzles in my opinion. Its like silicone baking tray in an oven - after cooking pie in it you can easily clean it afterwards, while if you’re using metal tray its much harder to scrub things off of it :)

Thank you sir! Form Futura’s TitanX and ApolloX prints even easier than Ultrafuse Abs+ if you ever want to give it another shot! They sell small sample rolls of 250g so even if it fails you wont loose much.

Thanks for sharing. Does that successfully mitigate warping for larger prints?

With the addition of lily pads (also called mouse ears or anti-warp discs) placed on the corners of the print, yes.

@@StudioSpaceDust Yes, I've printed a Dactyl Manuform keyboard (typing on it now). I used lily pads on the 2nd half and it had really strong adhesion to the build plate (no warping). The 1st half warped badly with only PVA wood glue and no lily pads (still usable though). Getting the bed leveled evenly with the nozzle super close to the bed (squishing the filament) was important too.

Glad you found it useful :) theres special tool for this now at printables to download from official Prusas account, you wont even need a wrench.

Thank you. Ever since I have installed 6 squash ball feet and it really helped!

If your nozzle sits tight in heater block but whole assembly is moving it means two thumb screws arent tigtened. Open part cooling fan and try tigtening them with your fingers.

@@StudioSpaceDust They are fully tightened.

@@voldy3565 then it might be that those two bolts are too short (contact prusa support). Is this a new machine? Has it always been moving like this? May need to remove love board cover, disconnect thermisor and heater block cables, loosen those thumb screws and try to remove whole nozzle, maybe it is deformed where screws should be holding it in place.

Thank you 🙏 is there a way to alter those parameters somehow? It never passed that test, every time when I turn printer on it asks me if I want to finish calibration tests and before starting each print it asks me the same thing. So - a bit annoying to manually ignore these warnings but except from that it works just fine. And an advantage to aluminum heater block is that I don’t need to tighten nozzle every ~100print hours as it just doesn’t get loose, so in my opinion it’s better than O.G. heater block

Thank you 🙏

If i assembled mk4 from zero I would probably do the same. These bolts I used in video are still in place, does not get loosened up while original from Prusa I had to tighten every ~200 print hours. I also noticed when parts are from ABS+ bolts stay much better in place than original PETG. It results in me not needing to do maintenance at least 3 times longer.

I’d have to say you’re probably doing something wrong. My screws are impeccable. European quality. I hope you’re not that knucklehead feels they have to use an electric screwdriver on everything. I’ve built these things and tournament apart and upgraded them and I’ve never had a problem with a screw that I can think of.

@@Eric_In_SF my main issue was that every 200 print hours or so i had to tighten them. Of course - I didn’t need to replace them, but ever since I did - i never needed to tighten any single one of them again. Also I didnt need to change PETG parts with ABS+ but I have to also say that ever since I did, all other screws in them dont loosen up as quick too. Now considering price of MK4 + enclosure + time and energy to upgrade it seems a bit extra.

@@Eric_In_SF I've never even owned an electric screwdriver I have no use for such things. The screws which held the PSU and logic board housings against those nuts that are in the short extrusions snapped at the cap using the provided alan key's short handle, between my thumb and forefinger. Twice. Prusa are absolutely skimping on the fasteners. The third party screws I got, which I'm now even tougher on, haven't stripped or broken whatsoever. I have no complaints about anything else, even the 3d printed parts were great. The screws only. Maybe a bad batch.

Somebody here mentioned exactly same issue with PSU fastening bolts, you’re not alone, he had to buy new frame as he couldn’t remove snapped ones..What is also a bit annoying that even if you have torque screwdriver, Prusa doesn’t provide values for it. I also like my MK4, but my next one definetly something from Bambu. Huge part of it is printer enclosure size vs print volume ratio. Which in MK4 case is just ridiculously inefficient. Also now we bought X1E in the office and the thing is sick. Now I want one!

Thank you for your kind words sir. Im a big fan of PETG myself and still looking for best one out there but ABS+ and ASA+ are safe to print without enclosure, I’m quite confident. If you pause video where I’m introducing filaments and zoom in on spools there are indications from manufacturer. Particularly FormFutura’s Apollox (ASA+, that prints at lower bed/nozzle temp than some PETG) and TitanX (ABS+). But the only reason why you would really need to use these two filaments (In my opinion) is either requirement for higher temperature tolerance or for easier sanding. Otherwise there are tons of PLA/PETG’s with enhanced features. Also. FormFutura sells their filaments at 250g small spools, which are cheap to try out, so together with 3DLAC (or equivalent) adhesive there is definitely high success rate. But to successfully print O.G. ASA/ABS is another matter where one would not only need enclosure but an actively heated enclosure of ~60C, as I didnt manage to print them without warping even using fixing agents with ~36-40C inside of an enclosure. Of course I could try with a tall skirt all around the part, but chances would still be low printing big parts.

Hello and thanks for watching the video and your question. To be most accurate determining shrinkage it would be best to print shrinkage calibrators using same settings one would use for intended 3d prints so it will slightly wary per case, but my settings were: 0.4 nozzle, 0.2mm layer height, I use 4 perimeters with 40% grid infill, 6 top and 6 bottom layers. But…I also tested 0.4 nozzle, 0.2mm layer height with 2 perimeters at 20% grid infill and noticed no difference in shrinkage. For ambient temperature within enclosure its always ~32-36C. If you pause video in the results section you can see what bed and nozzle temperatures I used.

@@StudioSpaceDust thanks for the update,

Thank you for letting me know, for some reason end of link was “…” I have now updated it but here is a link too www.printables.com/@SSD_1637144/models

Hello and thank you for your comment. I can also detest that colorFabb’s support is top of the line. Initially when my prints failed and I managed to ruin my plate I complained to them and they issued me a refund. Only after that I realised that heating the bed eases up the removal and contacted them back saying no refund is needed but they just issued it anyways. It’s good to know that they admitted limits of allPHA to you. If it was truly so easy to print everybody would be using it. Unfortunately not…but they have PLA-PHA in their range, this, as I understand is easier to print? But then it’s not 100% bio based, so there is a trade off… I have not tested PHA from Regen, but let me know if you manage to get your hands on it at some point.

Thanks for the good words! I managed to clog one obxidian sadly. It was with NGEN, most likely because of too fast infill speed (used original material profile from prusa slicer…)… so I would only say this: when you are testing new filament, put old brass nozzle and run a test print, because if it clogs you will loose cheaper nozzle. And be very careful if you’re printing TPU/FLEX. I had to drop speed significantly to get that going.

@StudioSpaceDust great advice, I have 2 spools of TPU waiting for my first try after I mass print for an even I've been working towards for a week, lol. Then, I can resume my "research," also known as aimlessly wandering in the dark, lol.

@@VikingVeteranArtisan we are all here just dust in the space my friend and 3D printing passion unites us all 😎🔥 good luck with TPU and your project!

@StudioSpaceDust Thank you. Keep up the amazing work!

Thank you for your advice 🙏

This is very inspiring. I believed I have done exactly that trying to salvage one clogged obXidian nozzle but I didn’t go till its glow red, so maybe I will give it a go another time. :) appreciate such a sincere comment 🙏 thank you sir

Thanks Nick!

Thank you for your advice, I have few of those. Ill keep this in mind next time 🙏 but with Alpha, when cold, this would not have helped. With heated bed, instead of wooden scraper, very likely.

Its impossible to remove these PHA ColorFabb+3Dlac print using a painter's knives. No matter how sharp you get them. Ask me how I know.

Hey, thanks for your comment. I have pretty much resolved this grinding noise by: reducing belt tension, adjusting pulley position, installing 6x squash ball feet. The noise in the video has been reduced by 80-90% I would say (credit mainly to squash ball feet upgrade). I have also reduced tension on some of the bolts (around Y rod bearings).

Thank you! I also found some parts with letter “E”, those probably are internal iterations too.

Got it from levendigs.com/

Does the stepper get hot when it's at idle?

Thank you very much, this is great shout! I actually contacted prusa support for advice and they said pulley position in video is too close to motor - they were right, it has to be realligned with pulley holder frame edge (as it says in their manual) and then another thing they said, which sounded a bit counter intuitive for me was to release bolts for front and back plates, which I dont think I even want to try. The other user gave good tip to release belt tension for Y which I always had on mid-high, now reduced to just at lowest mark within allowed zone on their tool and this helped further reduce noise. So, your tip about motor could be the case closer :) any advice where you got them from? But overall this printer seems to be very sensitive to bolt/belt tensions, this is very delicate and gentle, while I always like to run it tight!

@@StudioSpaceDust I don't know why, but RUclips annoys me, delete my comment where I try to give you tips to reduce the resonance to a minimum, so I'll try with only one type :) try the sqash ball mod or at least the anti-vibration pad, I use both, it works on furniture anti-vibration mat, there is a 40x40 paving cube on the mat and also a printer with aqash balls, now the loudest motors are on the printer

@@StudioSpaceDust the second tip is to properly lubricate the bearings, you'd be surprised how many people do it wrong and I don't recommend using the enclosed grease from Prusa, super lube is a good choice, here is a very good guide on how to lubricate the bearings, start from the time from 04:33 I won't give you the link because RUclips always deletes the comment, I don't understand why, so I'll give you the title of the RUclips video: Lubrication Basics - Keep your 3D printer running smooth and quiet

@@davidzapletal9063 Thank you, incredible tips, I'm going to try to pick some anti vibration pad from amazon and check that feet mod. I already use Super Lube but again, thanks for the link, I'm sure I didn't lubricate it the right way - so always up for learning new tricks. This, together with reduced belt tension, and right pulley position will be the end of this grinding. :D Love it, so many people gave so many good tips!

I changed motor, changed bearings, try to Loose and tight everything but still Getting grinding noise. Any ideas? Maybe shifting pulley to the side or making y axis overhaul from printables ?

Good point, thank you :)

It’s a bit bland. I think I’m going baby blue next time :-) then some bright yellow accessories like dust caps and wire covers so I can have a bit of an IKEA theme ha ha

Hi Paul, thanks for the tip, ppreciate your comment, will definitely give it a try! I think loosening belt tension to “min” setting on a belt tensioning tool will help. I also noticed it makes massive difference releasing bearing tensioning fixtures too.

@@StudioSpaceDust use a real, tensioning tool. Not that silly printable PTG thing.

Hey, thanks for the tip. As far as I’m aware there sadly is no PID calibration for MK4 :(

​​@@StudioSpaceDustform the Prusa knowledge Base This is a list of currently implemented G-Codes in Prusa Buddy firmware for MINI/MINI+/XL/MK4/MK3.5 printers M303 - M303: Run PID tuning PID relay autotune Parameters: S<temperature>: sets the target temperature. (default 150C / 70C) E<extruder>: (-1 for the bed) (default 0) C<cycles>: Minimum 3. Default 5. U<bool>: with a non-zero value will apply the result to current settings.

@@berlinberlin4246 thank you for the shout! Do you know a way how pass the heater test though? Because printing wise it prints without any issue even when the test fails. But because test is not completed (failed) before every print printer notifies that fact and you need to click "continue".. But to be honest I have same issue printing with NGEN or FLEX, I just cant find a way how to set Prusa filament to be NGEN, FLEX, it prints both of them, just have to click that I'm ok that filament that is loaded is not the same what the slicer file is.

Hey, thanks for your comment. Hot bed to 90C+ and wooden scraper(not to ruin hot bed coating) is the only way I managed to remove those prints safely.

Did they offer any solution? I noticed that the way this printer is designed, its very sensitive to tigtening tension. When I think I didnt apply much force at all it is actually ~2x too much. You can feel how much resistance decreases when moving plate for Y axis once pressure on bearing tigtenings is reduced inder the heating plate. And in return it then operates more quiet. This printer is good for slow-medium speed printing, this is what its design is telling me (just my opinion).

If you are changing the nozzle and this happens it may be that filament wasn’t unloaded or wasn’t unloaded successfully, try to unload filament again.

Or fix it back, load filament until you see it purging out normally, then unload filament, and then try again this process

Ah, found them on Prusa's shop.

Hello and thanks for your comment. I bought them from Prusa store too but you can also find them on third party websites :)

Good to know, thank you for sharing. There is always room for improvement :)

Hello and thanks for your comment, I think it makes sense what you are saying but if I can add to that thought id say pause would be needed between every say… 5 layers or so because adhesion of first layer is not an issue as sheet is cold in the beginning but the bigger the print the more thermal mass it stores and I suppose heat goes down to base causing warp at later stage of the print. But really good idea! Worth testing.

@@StudioSpaceDust It definitely won't be as straightforward I'm sure ^^ It's interesting to hear that adhesion is good on a cold bed, would allow for very energy efficient printing on top of the eco friendly nature of the filament. The issue indeed often is that filament stores heat too efficiently, even with fans on full blast it will only cool so quick. Maybe side blowers like bambu and voron printers do is the key to keeping temperatures in check. I have high hopes for PHA I'd love to finally have true eco friendly material to work with. I might grab a spool for myself to check it out. It's just a little pricey for my taste :/ I've subscribed to your channel to keep an eye out for you future expirements Thanks again for sharing, keep up the good work :D

Yup, low energy bill is definitely a big advantage. Even with little warp it’s still a good material for simple prints. Those who want more dimensional stability may go for PLA/PHA mix, a bit of a compromise but still more sustainable than regular PLA.

@@StudioSpaceDust If you mix PLA and PHA, you remove the natural ability to biodegrade and need to ensure the print is discarded into an industrial composting facility. PLA is not a natural polymer and it not found in nature. Therefore it needs the higher temps to begin the hydrolysis process and ensure bacteria can in fact break it down. And in addition, PLA in a marine environment does in fact turn into toxic microplastics. PLA isn't biocompatible with humans and mammal either. PHA on the other hand, is a natural biopolymer created by nature. And is fully biocompatible, hence their application in internal medicine for the past 20+ years. And does not require any specific or special conditions to natural biodegrade other than bacterial activity. When you mix PLA and PHA as Regen brand of 3D filament does with their claimed 100% "PHA" filament (its not). And those that printed part into your home compost bed. You've basically created the perfect high speed delivery mechanism to introduce PLA micro and nano plastic into your soil. Or worse into a marine environment. ColorFabb does over a mix PLA and PHA filament, but are very clear on their proper end of life. So, please discard those types of prints into the regular garbage pile and do not try to compost them. Or leave them exposed to the environment.

The more heat the more warp with this one. After filament leaves nozzle it takes quite a while to solidify (compared to pla/petg) thats why it is recommended to have 100% fan from 1st layer. I originally tested this material with closed door of enclosure and internal temperature was ~28C which resulted in more warp than later when I opened enclosure door, turned internal enclosure fan on an even opened window nearby which dropped temperature to ~23C which resulted in prints with less warp, so if one can drop it even lower maybe warp could be eliminated altogether. Direct AC feed to enclosure, this would be a fun test :)

Tg of PHA is -5 c to 10c, A heated chamber accelerate the crystallization and increases the rate of warping.

Good question, will need to do some research :)

PLA

The reason I tried 3d lac is because it is specified by ColorFabb in their technical data sheet. I suppose glue stick could work to some extent but I will leave it for others to try. Technically 3d lac is stronger than PVA glue stick anyways and even with it I couldn't prevent warp 100%. I think what would really help is dropping ambient temperature really low. Like as low as you can get in winter in a basement. But I wont be able to test that too. Or also if you could drop print speed even more, but again, then print times will be unfeasible. Or if printed with 3d lac on a glass sheet. But this is another story.

It is possible to remove it from the sheet if it is heated to 90C+ but not from cold sheet. Brim and 3d lac helps to mitigate warp but i do not recommend using 3d lac as even heated to 120C its hard to remove. As you said it would be better to do that on a glass sheet. But glass sheets are old school, no affordable printer manufacturer uses those any more as majority of people print PLA or PETG or sometimes ASA, PC or PA which are also okish on flex sheet. This video is testing AllPHA on MK4, if I had Ultimaker with a set of glass sheets to test it on I would, but I dont.

@@StudioSpaceDust thanks for the reply I just bought an A1 mini with PHA filament from beyondplastic they just released their second gen PHA filament

Hey no problem, thanks for asking. In this video it was all about AllPHA from ColorFabb, so I'm not sure if this will imply to this filament you mentioned as I am not familiar with that, especially since its from another manufacturer. There are other filaments even from ColorFabb like PLA/PHA which are 100% biodegradable but they are not 0% microplastics as AllPHA. I have not tested them but I would assume they print much easier than AllPHA since they are probably mixed with PLA. PHA on its own is made out of fat cells of bacteria, and then some added colour pigment, that's why its harder to print it. Just googled the filament you mentioned. Seems liks its 100% PHA, so let me know once you tried printing. Maybe you have better experience!

@@StudioSpaceDust i printed my first print on the A1 mini and changed the recommended print settings, no warping, no brim, printed on textured PEI amazing filament but i printed about the size of a bottle cap yet still very impressive results for PHA from beyond plastic, came off fairly easily no heated bed required. Edit: tiny tiny bit of warping but not visible to my eye upon first impressions

Tha ks for the update, sounds similar to ColorFabbs AlPHA, if you later print bigger object like those boxes in my video let me know, also is PHA from Beyond Plastics also easy to cut and scratch prone?

You are welcome! By the way, now Prusa has released one too, they have also uploaded a apecial tool for that, it wasnt available when I made a video, so make aure to check this link. www.printables.com/model/801656-mk4-nozzle-replacement-tool

Hey, congratulations on your new kit. It is 1.5 Nm (13.3 lb-in) you can check this article for more details help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-the-prusa-nozzle-mk4-mk3-9_421215

Hi Steve, I used AC Infinity Multifan S3. These fans are very quiet and have inbuilt controller, you can set fan on Low/Medium/High flow (~$20 on Amazon). These fans uses usb port so if you have old phone charger it can be reused to power the fan/fans. I used two of these fans only because I had them already but one will do job just as fine. But… any 120mm fan will work with Prusa Enclosure, maybe nowadays there are better fans, Noctura is also very good brand. Link to fans I used amzn.eu/d/7x7aLOS you can use link in video description to get printable files if you wish to use what I used in video.

If you do that then: 1) you melt aluminum heater block 2) hardened steel nozzle becomes ruined if you exceed 300C or whatever is set as max temp by manufacturer. Thats why some use soldering iron, so that they dont overheat it. But if you want to blast it, of course it’s your choice. Not to mention your cables will melt too, in some cases, as in mine thermistor cable was melted to heater block, blasting it with flame would have just burnt it. This can i ly be done with Prusa brass nozzle. I have done it myself after i clogged it, in that case, yes it worked, I also used 2mm drill to remove filament stuck inside.