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- Видео 7
- Просмотров 24 148
Studio Space Dust
Великобритания
Добавлен 30 сен 2023
Prototyping ideas and documenting the process.
How Much do FDM Filaments Shrink
This Video will test how much following filaments shrink:
BASF Ultrafuse ABS Fusion+
FormFutura TitanX
BASF Ultrafuse ASA
FormFutura ApolloX
Print settings:
0.4mm nozzle
0.2mm layer height
4 perimeters
40% grid infill
6 top / 6 bottom solid layers
*But I noticed no difference in shrinkage when printing with 2 perimeters and 20% infill
Printables:
printables.com/@SSD_1637144/models
Instagram:
@StudioSpaceDust
#Prusa #Mk4 #PrusaEnclosure #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinterfilament #3dprinters #Design #Prototyping #Reviews
My setup:
Prusa MK4 with Enclosure.
Iphone 12 Pro
Blue Yeti X
ESDI Lights
Old ThinkPad
BASF Ultrafuse ABS Fusion+
FormFutura TitanX
BASF Ultrafuse ASA
FormFutura ApolloX
Print settings:
0.4mm nozzle
0.2mm layer height
4 perimeters
40% grid infill
6 top / 6 bottom solid layers
*But I noticed no difference in shrinkage when printing with 2 perimeters and 20% infill
Printables:
printables.com/@SSD_1637144/models
Instagram:
@StudioSpaceDust
#Prusa #Mk4 #PrusaEnclosure #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinterfilament #3dprinters #Design #Prototyping #Reviews
My setup:
Prusa MK4 with Enclosure.
Iphone 12 Pro
Blue Yeti X
ESDI Lights
Old ThinkPad
Просмотров: 438
Видео
PETG to ABS Fusion+ Prusa MK4 Rebuild, frame bolt replacement and plated copper heater block...
Просмотров 5 тыс.3 месяца назад
In this video I will be replacing original PRUSA MK4 PETG parts with ABS Fusion from BASF. l will share my experience during this process and print settings that I used. Printables: www.printables.com/@SSD_1637144/models Instagram: @StudioSpaceDust #Prusa #Mk4 #PrusaEnclosure #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinterfilament #3dprinters
Printing AllPHA on MK4. 0% Microplastics. 100% Biobased. 100% Biodegradable. Made out of fat cells.
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.4 месяца назад
In this video I will review ColorFabb`s AllPHA, one of the most sustainable filaments available on the market. It contains no micro plastics and is made out of fat cells of bacteria. It is 100% Biobased and 100% Biodegradable. Printables: www.printables.com/@SSD_16371... Instagram: @StudioSpaceDust #Prusa #Mk4 #PrusaEnclosure #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinterfilament #3dprinters
Prusa MK4 Quick Nozzle Swap Method
Просмотров 9 тыс.5 месяцев назад
In this video I will talk you through and show you how to swap Prusa Nozzles without completely removing Heat Block Assembly Quick swap tool from Prusa for even quicker replacement: www.printables.com/model/801656-mk4-nozzle-replacement-tool My Printables page: www.printables.com/@SSD_1637144/models Instagram: @StudioSpaceDust #Prusa #Mk4 #PrusaEnclosure #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinterfilamen...
Prusa MK4 / XL Nozzle Review & Hotend Assembly (Nextruder V6 Nozzle Adapter VS Prusa Nozzle)
Просмотров 6 тыс.5 месяцев назад
In this video I will talk you through the differences between Prusa Nextruder V6 Nozzle Adapter and Prusa Nozzle and demostrate how to assemble new hotend from scratch. Printables: www.printables.com/@SSD_1637144/models Instagram: @StudioSpaceDust #Prusa #mk4 #PrusaEnclosure #3dprinting #3dprinter #3dprinterfilament #3dprinters
Original Prusa Enclosure + MK4 Air Exhaust Installation
Просмотров 2 тыс.6 месяцев назад
Advanced Filtration System add-on that is available for Original Prusa Enclosure does not filter VOC, to extract VOCs you need to extract air out via 120mm fan to 100mm duct. This video will show you how to install an air exhaust system to your Original Prusa Enclosure, but... to be honest this works for any printer with any enclosure. Printable parts for Air Exhaust Installation: www.printable...
I Made an Urn for My Mother
Просмотров 1568 месяцев назад
In this concentrated video I will show you complete process of how I made a ceremony urn for my mother. From Initial industrial clay prototype to final product. Chapters 0:00 Introduction 0:04 Prototype 0:19 CAD Modeling 0:30 Ordering 3D Print 0:45 Reviewing Order 1:26 Post Processing with Bondo 1:50 Quick Respirator Review 2:18 Using Primer Filler 2:43 Using LiquitexPaste 3:06 3D Printer vs Pr...
According to Prusa, the hepa filter in their Advanced Filtration System is a combo filter that also filters VOCs. They claim VOC protection. Are they wrong?
To answer that I would need to run some tests. Main reasons I don’t use that filter is: 1) its very loud, cant work in that room (main reason). 2) it creates very strong air circulation inside of the enclosure, which is good for PLA and AllPHA but bad for ABS/ASA.
Why do you have a PTFE tube on top? I recently purchased MK4 - no tube on top.
PTFE tube comes with an enclosure. Can also come in handy if you like to feed your filament directly from dry box for instance. It is an easy aftermarket upgrade with festo adapter if needed. By default MK4 doesn’t come with PTFE tube because filament is fed from the top of printer - in that case it is not required.
Thank you for the good video. One question: i didn't know there is a silicon sock on. Why does it matter?
It’s an optional upgrade. With time you will see some filament residue build up on heater block, silicone sock prevents filament from sticking to it basically. It’s a cheap upgrade which makes sense if you’re using Prusa nozzles in my opinion. Its like silicone baking tray in an oven - after cooking pie in it you can easily clean it afterwards, while if you’re using metal tray its much harder to scrub things off of it :)
Wow very cool- I like your upgrades to your Mk4 as well. I might try this material, I’ve had trouble in the past with my room too cold. Subscribed! Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
Thank you sir! Form Futura’s TitanX and ApolloX prints even easier than Ultrafuse Abs+ if you ever want to give it another shot! They sell small sample rolls of 250g so even if it fails you wont loose much.
Glass bed + PVA wood glue. This is now my go to filament.
Thanks for sharing. Does that successfully mitigate warping for larger prints?
With the addition of lily pads (also called mouse ears or anti-warp discs) placed on the corners of the print, yes.
@@StudioSpaceDust Yes, I've printed a Dactyl Manuform keyboard (typing on it now). I used lily pads on the 2nd half and it had really strong adhesion to the build plate (no warping). The 1st half warped badly with only PVA wood glue and no lily pads (still usable though). Getting the bed leveled evenly with the nozzle super close to the bed (squishing the filament) was important too.
I love how simple this is! When I was the official method, I knew there had to be a faster way. Thank you for sharing this technique with us
Glad you found it useful :) theres special tool for this now at printables to download from official Prusas account, you wont even need a wrench.
The noise you’re hearing isn’t bearing. it’s the resonance of the vibration of the motor on the build plate and frames. the only way to get rid of it would be put some dynomat or other sound deadening material on your bed frame and back plate. It’s logical since all your other motors are mounted on plastic and this is the only one that’s directly touching metal
Thank you. Ever since I have installed 6 squash ball feet and it really helped!
My hotend can turn left and right even when fully screwed in.
If your nozzle sits tight in heater block but whole assembly is moving it means two thumb screws arent tigtened. Open part cooling fan and try tigtening them with your fingers.
@@StudioSpaceDust They are fully tightened.
@@voldy3565 then it might be that those two bolts are too short (contact prusa support). Is this a new machine? Has it always been moving like this? May need to remove love board cover, disconnect thermisor and heater block cables, loosen those thumb screws and try to remove whole nozzle, maybe it is deformed where screws should be holding it in place.
Heater calibration fails because it has a thermal model… similar to MK3S+. So your aftermarket heater block is probably not going to work without being able to alter the thermal model parameters.
Thank you 🙏 is there a way to alter those parameters somehow? It never passed that test, every time when I turn printer on it asks me if I want to finish calibration tests and before starting each print it asks me the same thing. So - a bit annoying to manually ignore these warnings but except from that it works just fine. And an advantage to aluminum heater block is that I don’t need to tighten nozzle every ~100print hours as it just doesn’t get loose, so in my opinion it’s better than O.G. heater block
Great video
Thank you 🙏
I'm still watching but I have to say, I just bought a MK4 and the screws are the worst I've ever used on anything ever. I stripped like 5 of the frame screws and those little m3x10 ones, two of them broke off at the cap head and left the thread inside the extrusion at the back with those nuts that the xBuddy case and PSU hang over. I had to get new extrusions. I no longer trusted the bolts for the rest of the build so I'm stalled now, I went ahead and went to ACCU and got replacements for every single screw I could find.
If i assembled mk4 from zero I would probably do the same. These bolts I used in video are still in place, does not get loosened up while original from Prusa I had to tighten every ~200 print hours. I also noticed when parts are from ABS+ bolts stay much better in place than original PETG. It results in me not needing to do maintenance at least 3 times longer.
I’d have to say you’re probably doing something wrong. My screws are impeccable. European quality. I hope you’re not that knucklehead feels they have to use an electric screwdriver on everything. I’ve built these things and tournament apart and upgraded them and I’ve never had a problem with a screw that I can think of.
@@Eric_In_SF my main issue was that every 200 print hours or so i had to tighten them. Of course - I didn’t need to replace them, but ever since I did - i never needed to tighten any single one of them again. Also I didnt need to change PETG parts with ABS+ but I have to also say that ever since I did, all other screws in them dont loosen up as quick too. Now considering price of MK4 + enclosure + time and energy to upgrade it seems a bit extra.
@@Eric_In_SF I've never even owned an electric screwdriver I have no use for such things. The screws which held the PSU and logic board housings against those nuts that are in the short extrusions snapped at the cap using the provided alan key's short handle, between my thumb and forefinger. Twice. Prusa are absolutely skimping on the fasteners. The third party screws I got, which I'm now even tougher on, haven't stripped or broken whatsoever. I have no complaints about anything else, even the 3d printed parts were great. The screws only. Maybe a bad batch.
Somebody here mentioned exactly same issue with PSU fastening bolts, you’re not alone, he had to buy new frame as he couldn’t remove snapped ones..What is also a bit annoying that even if you have torque screwdriver, Prusa doesn’t provide values for it. I also like my MK4, but my next one definetly something from Bambu. Huge part of it is printer enclosure size vs print volume ratio. Which in MK4 case is just ridiculously inefficient. Also now we bought X1E in the office and the thing is sick. Now I want one!
SUPER video thanks a lot I usually print from PETG rarely from PLA. I don't have a covered printer so I've never printed from ABS / ASA I'm afraid I'd be destined to fail :) but maybe one day I'll commit :)
Thank you for your kind words sir. Im a big fan of PETG myself and still looking for best one out there but ABS+ and ASA+ are safe to print without enclosure, I’m quite confident. If you pause video where I’m introducing filaments and zoom in on spools there are indications from manufacturer. Particularly FormFutura’s Apollox (ASA+, that prints at lower bed/nozzle temp than some PETG) and TitanX (ABS+). But the only reason why you would really need to use these two filaments (In my opinion) is either requirement for higher temperature tolerance or for easier sanding. Otherwise there are tons of PLA/PETG’s with enhanced features. Also. FormFutura sells their filaments at 250g small spools, which are cheap to try out, so together with 3DLAC (or equivalent) adhesive there is definitely high success rate. But to successfully print O.G. ASA/ABS is another matter where one would not only need enclosure but an actively heated enclosure of ~60C, as I didnt manage to print them without warping even using fixing agents with ~36-40C inside of an enclosure. Of course I could try with a tall skirt all around the part, but chances would still be low printing big parts.
Great topic, thanks 👍
Thank you for the Tests, Im missing some print settings, can you add This to the video description? Thanks Infill percentage Infill pattern Layer Hight Nosel size
Hello and thanks for watching the video and your question. To be most accurate determining shrinkage it would be best to print shrinkage calibrators using same settings one would use for intended 3d prints so it will slightly wary per case, but my settings were: 0.4 nozzle, 0.2mm layer height, I use 4 perimeters with 40% grid infill, 6 top and 6 bottom layers. But…I also tested 0.4 nozzle, 0.2mm layer height with 2 perimeters at 20% grid infill and noticed no difference in shrinkage. For ambient temperature within enclosure its always ~32-36C. If you pause video in the results section you can see what bed and nozzle temperatures I used.
@@StudioSpaceDust thanks for the update,
The link to printables unfortunately doesn't work, do you have new one? ;)
Thank you for letting me know, for some reason end of link was “…” I have now updated it but here is a link too www.printables.com/@SSD_1637144/models
I've struggled like you with the colorfabb PHA. tried different combinations of 3DLac and Brim on my P1P but nothing worked for bigger objects. I also damaged one build plate with the 3DLac + Brim combination. I even contacted the support. They have a test lab and can test your models on their 3D Printers and give you advice (best support I got in touch yet). Unfortunatly they also know the limits of the filament at the current state. here is their answer: "Sorry the material is not yet working well for your situation. We understand the current limits of the material and it's an ongoing project of our R&D team to improve on the original allPHA grade. We hope, like you, one day we'll be able to achieve ease or printing similar to PLA. Your story and experience is incredibly valuable and will contribute to keep pushing the limits of PHA!" Have you tried the PHA from Regen? I heard that their filament is a bit easier to print than the allPHA
Hello and thank you for your comment. I can also detest that colorFabb’s support is top of the line. Initially when my prints failed and I managed to ruin my plate I complained to them and they issued me a refund. Only after that I realised that heating the bed eases up the removal and contacted them back saying no refund is needed but they just issued it anyways. It’s good to know that they admitted limits of allPHA to you. If it was truly so easy to print everybody would be using it. Unfortunately not…but they have PLA-PHA in their range, this, as I understand is easier to print? But then it’s not 100% bio based, so there is a trade off… I have not tested PHA from Regen, but let me know if you manage to get your hands on it at some point.
Have absolutely 0 complaints for the obsidian nozzels. They are amazing. I've upgraded all of mine to them, currently waiting on the silicon sleeves thou. Love the video! Wish I had seen it before I figured it out myself. Luckily when I ordered my printer I also ordered the obsidian nozzel as well figured would eventually need a new one.....a few weeks in the brass nozel had a big clog and I've been printing with the obsidian one since...that was in February and the printer has been going almost non stop since. It's mid-June now, and it's still going strong!
Thanks for the good words! I managed to clog one obxidian sadly. It was with NGEN, most likely because of too fast infill speed (used original material profile from prusa slicer…)… so I would only say this: when you are testing new filament, put old brass nozzle and run a test print, because if it clogs you will loose cheaper nozzle. And be very careful if you’re printing TPU/FLEX. I had to drop speed significantly to get that going.
@StudioSpaceDust great advice, I have 2 spools of TPU waiting for my first try after I mass print for an even I've been working towards for a week, lol. Then, I can resume my "research," also known as aimlessly wandering in the dark, lol.
@@VikingVeteranArtisan we are all here just dust in the space my friend and 3D printing passion unites us all 😎🔥 good luck with TPU and your project!
@StudioSpaceDust Thank you. Keep up the amazing work!
Thank you
Hello...the reverberation noise is coming from a combination of the servo motor and the metal sheet on the bottom of the printer. Its acting like a speaker of sorts. Use automotive sound deadener on any sheet metal or sheet plastic parts. Don't need much, even strips will work in the corners. Get the self adhesive kind.
Thank you for your advice 🙏
I've begun using a small butane torch and heating the nozzles (both Prusa and V6) until red hot which vaporizes any filament inside. For the block, I heat it only until the filament starts to bubble and remove residue with a brass brush. I also have a vapor blaster which is an abrasive blaster using high pressure water. It effectively can restore all the parts to near new condition without compromising them although it is non-essential; heating the parts to high temperature achieves >90 of the desired result. A couple of caveats. The feed tubes appear to be press fit and when heating the threaded part, the heat will loosen the tube and it can fall out from metal expansion unless its kept vertical until it cools. Care must be taken when heating the block as the aluminum can easily melt. Using a torch has allowed me to salvage many hot ends that I might otherwise have tossed out.
This is very inspiring. I believed I have done exactly that trying to salvage one clogged obXidian nozzle but I didn’t go till its glow red, so maybe I will give it a go another time. :) appreciate such a sincere comment 🙏 thank you sir
It seems like a drive related issue. I would remove the belt so the stepper has no load and then operate the stepper. If the noise persists, the problem can only be with the drive (or I guess possibly the stepper itself).
Thanks Nick!
Use a painter's knife. Not just in this case, but any time you even consider using a scraper, use a painter's knife instead. One with a sharp front edge, but large enough to lie flat on the bed and you won't be scratching anything.
Thank you for your advice, I have few of those. Ill keep this in mind next time 🙏 but with Alpha, when cold, this would not have helped. With heated bed, instead of wooden scraper, very likely.
Its impossible to remove these PHA ColorFabb+3Dlac print using a painter's knives. No matter how sharp you get them. Ask me how I know.
i just build my prusa mk4 today and my y-motor have the same noise but its not that loud maybe yours is inside the enclosure and the noise is amplified
Hey, thanks for your comment. I have pretty much resolved this grinding noise by: reducing belt tension, adjusting pulley position, installing 6x squash ball feet. The noise in the video has been reduced by 80-90% I would say (credit mainly to squash ball feet upgrade). I have also reduced tension on some of the bolts (around Y rod bearings).
Buy 1200 eurodollar printer upgrade with shit thanks Prusa
3:18 letter F on prusa parts is for the ones printed by Prusa in their 3d Farm, R are the ones that are posted on printables/github to be printed by regular users.
Thank you! I also found some parts with letter “E”, those probably are internal iterations too.
do you have the heating block from aliexpress?
Got it from levendigs.com/
Motor current is too high
Does the stepper get hot when it's at idle?
the sound from the Y-axis creates a motor, it transmits vibrations to the entire structure. I changed the X axis and Y axis motors on the MK3.9, they made very similar noises, especially the Y axis, it depends a lot on what motor you get from prusa, I also have a mk4.0 and it is completely silent i used these engines LDO-42STH40-1684MAC printer mk3,9 now identifies as mk4
Thank you very much, this is great shout! I actually contacted prusa support for advice and they said pulley position in video is too close to motor - they were right, it has to be realligned with pulley holder frame edge (as it says in their manual) and then another thing they said, which sounded a bit counter intuitive for me was to release bolts for front and back plates, which I dont think I even want to try. The other user gave good tip to release belt tension for Y which I always had on mid-high, now reduced to just at lowest mark within allowed zone on their tool and this helped further reduce noise. So, your tip about motor could be the case closer :) any advice where you got them from? But overall this printer seems to be very sensitive to bolt/belt tensions, this is very delicate and gentle, while I always like to run it tight!
@@StudioSpaceDust I don't know why, but RUclips annoys me, delete my comment where I try to give you tips to reduce the resonance to a minimum, so I'll try with only one type :) try the sqash ball mod or at least the anti-vibration pad, I use both, it works on furniture anti-vibration mat, there is a 40x40 paving cube on the mat and also a printer with aqash balls, now the loudest motors are on the printer
@@StudioSpaceDust the second tip is to properly lubricate the bearings, you'd be surprised how many people do it wrong and I don't recommend using the enclosed grease from Prusa, super lube is a good choice, here is a very good guide on how to lubricate the bearings, start from the time from 04:33 I won't give you the link because RUclips always deletes the comment, I don't understand why, so I'll give you the title of the RUclips video: Lubrication Basics - Keep your 3D printer running smooth and quiet
@@davidzapletal9063 Thank you, incredible tips, I'm going to try to pick some anti vibration pad from amazon and check that feet mod. I already use Super Lube but again, thanks for the link, I'm sure I didn't lubricate it the right way - so always up for learning new tricks. This, together with reduced belt tension, and right pulley position will be the end of this grinding. :D Love it, so many people gave so many good tips!
I changed motor, changed bearings, try to Loose and tight everything but still Getting grinding noise. Any ideas? Maybe shifting pulley to the side or making y axis overhaul from printables ?
noctua fan would look awesome in this setup, love it!
Good point, thank you :)
I recently bought a different pack of the nozzle in Aliexpress, it works very well, my advice is that before you install the nozzle and the hotel, try to hot it first and then install them together, because if you don't probably you will have a problem
That off-white with black looks so good! Gonna make my next printer in that colours!
It’s a bit bland. I think I’m going baby blue next time :-) then some bright yellow accessories like dust caps and wire covers so I can have a bit of an IKEA theme ha ha
Looks sick in white
Hi, received my MK4 2 days ago. Also had the MK2/2.5S for 8 years (and I got my first printer in 2010). Same noise in both my Prusas. Releasing the tension in the belts helps with mine. I run my belts looser than recommended and have never had an issue. Also have two CNC routers (Shapeoko 4 XL and Shapeoko 3) and run belts looser than recommended for same reason. Loosing always seems to take out some of that resonance noise. If ever too loose just add a bit more tension (they loosen over time anyway).
Hi Paul, thanks for the tip, ppreciate your comment, will definitely give it a try! I think loosening belt tension to “min” setting on a belt tensioning tool will help. I also noticed it makes massive difference releasing bearing tensioning fixtures too.
@@StudioSpaceDust use a real, tensioning tool. Not that silly printable PTG thing.
Regarding the hotend (copper block) you should try to run PID tuning - read on the website of one supplier for this blocks that this is recommended
Hey, thanks for the tip. As far as I’m aware there sadly is no PID calibration for MK4 :(
@@StudioSpaceDustform the Prusa knowledge Base This is a list of currently implemented G-Codes in Prusa Buddy firmware for MINI/MINI+/XL/MK4/MK3.5 printers M303 - M303: Run PID tuning PID relay autotune Parameters: S<temperature>: sets the target temperature. (default 150C / 70C) E<extruder>: (-1 for the bed) (default 0) C<cycles>: Minimum 3. Default 5. U<bool>: with a non-zero value will apply the result to current settings.
@@berlinberlin4246 thank you for the shout! Do you know a way how pass the heater test though? Because printing wise it prints without any issue even when the test fails. But because test is not completed (failed) before every print printer notifies that fact and you need to click "continue".. But to be honest I have same issue printing with NGEN or FLEX, I just cant find a way how to set Prusa filament to be NGEN, FLEX, it prints both of them, just have to click that I'm ok that filament that is loaded is not the same what the slicer file is.
Thank you! I experiment with this stuff for a while already and didn’t even think about using a hot bed for removal
Hey, thanks for your comment. Hot bed to 90C+ and wooden scraper(not to ruin hot bed coating) is the only way I managed to remove those prints safely.
I have the same bearings issue on my MK4, its currently unassembled on my workbench awaiting replacement parts. Prusa support seems to be very familiar with this issue.
Did they offer any solution? I noticed that the way this printer is designed, its very sensitive to tigtening tension. When I think I didnt apply much force at all it is actually ~2x too much. You can feel how much resistance decreases when moving plate for Y axis once pressure on bearing tigtenings is reduced inder the heating plate. And in return it then operates more quiet. This printer is good for slow-medium speed printing, this is what its design is telling me (just my opinion).
@Ro3Deee at 1:43, it can be seen that the required torque of 1.5 Nm removed a line of the coating (the tool is of too hard material). Happened to me also :(
my nozzle WILL NOT come out, such a horrible set up... the nozzle can turn and I have it out of the heat block.. but it wont drop out. yes.. the thumb screws are loose.. in fact out of the unit.
If you are changing the nozzle and this happens it may be that filament wasn’t unloaded or wasn’t unloaded successfully, try to unload filament again.
Or fix it back, load filament until you see it purging out normally, then unload filament, and then try again this process
Great video. Is that a silicone sock on your hot end, and where do i get one?
Ah, found them on Prusa's shop.
Hello and thanks for your comment. I bought them from Prusa store too but you can also find them on third party websites :)
such a downgrade, with revo six on the mk3s, you can change nozzle one handed while cold, theres no need for torque driver, and no worry about stripping the threads and causing leaks.
Good to know, thank you for sharing. There is always room for improvement :)
If the material likes cold so much how about letting the bed cool after first layer to promote adhesion? It might even help reduce warping. And then heat at the end to remove the part? I run my bed at 40 degrees with polyterra, the material just prefers cold beds. Anyhow thank you for testing and reporting. It's nice to see materials you can print tat with knowing it won't turn into micro plastics.
Hello and thanks for your comment, I think it makes sense what you are saying but if I can add to that thought id say pause would be needed between every say… 5 layers or so because adhesion of first layer is not an issue as sheet is cold in the beginning but the bigger the print the more thermal mass it stores and I suppose heat goes down to base causing warp at later stage of the print. But really good idea! Worth testing.
@@StudioSpaceDust It definitely won't be as straightforward I'm sure ^^ It's interesting to hear that adhesion is good on a cold bed, would allow for very energy efficient printing on top of the eco friendly nature of the filament. The issue indeed often is that filament stores heat too efficiently, even with fans on full blast it will only cool so quick. Maybe side blowers like bambu and voron printers do is the key to keeping temperatures in check. I have high hopes for PHA I'd love to finally have true eco friendly material to work with. I might grab a spool for myself to check it out. It's just a little pricey for my taste :/ I've subscribed to your channel to keep an eye out for you future expirements Thanks again for sharing, keep up the good work :D
Yup, low energy bill is definitely a big advantage. Even with little warp it’s still a good material for simple prints. Those who want more dimensional stability may go for PLA/PHA mix, a bit of a compromise but still more sustainable than regular PLA.
@@StudioSpaceDust If you mix PLA and PHA, you remove the natural ability to biodegrade and need to ensure the print is discarded into an industrial composting facility. PLA is not a natural polymer and it not found in nature. Therefore it needs the higher temps to begin the hydrolysis process and ensure bacteria can in fact break it down. And in addition, PLA in a marine environment does in fact turn into toxic microplastics. PLA isn't biocompatible with humans and mammal either. PHA on the other hand, is a natural biopolymer created by nature. And is fully biocompatible, hence their application in internal medicine for the past 20+ years. And does not require any specific or special conditions to natural biodegrade other than bacterial activity. When you mix PLA and PHA as Regen brand of 3D filament does with their claimed 100% "PHA" filament (its not). And those that printed part into your home compost bed. You've basically created the perfect high speed delivery mechanism to introduce PLA micro and nano plastic into your soil. Or worse into a marine environment. ColorFabb does over a mix PLA and PHA filament, but are very clear on their proper end of life. So, please discard those types of prints into the regular garbage pile and do not try to compost them. Or leave them exposed to the environment.
Interesting! What about enclosed/heated chamber to get rid of the warping?
The more heat the more warp with this one. After filament leaves nozzle it takes quite a while to solidify (compared to pla/petg) thats why it is recommended to have 100% fan from 1st layer. I originally tested this material with closed door of enclosure and internal temperature was ~28C which resulted in more warp than later when I opened enclosure door, turned internal enclosure fan on an even opened window nearby which dropped temperature to ~23C which resulted in prints with less warp, so if one can drop it even lower maybe warp could be eliminated altogether. Direct AC feed to enclosure, this would be a fun test :)
Tg of PHA is -5 c to 10c, A heated chamber accelerate the crystallization and increases the rate of warping.
Where can I find the 100% VOC carcinogenic non-recyclable filament that turns entirely into microplastics upon exposure to UV light?
Good question, will need to do some research :)
PLA
Could you try the classic PVA glue stick, with water as a release agent?
The reason I tried 3d lac is because it is specified by ColorFabb in their technical data sheet. I suppose glue stick could work to some extent but I will leave it for others to try. Technically 3d lac is stronger than PVA glue stick anyways and even with it I couldn't prevent warp 100%. I think what would really help is dropping ambient temperature really low. Like as low as you can get in winter in a basement. But I wont be able to test that too. Or also if you could drop print speed even more, but again, then print times will be unfeasible. Or if printed with 3d lac on a glass sheet. But this is another story.
how is it warping when its near impossible to remove it from the sheet? is it warping from pulling it off the sheet? Have you tried printing on glass?
It is possible to remove it from the sheet if it is heated to 90C+ but not from cold sheet. Brim and 3d lac helps to mitigate warp but i do not recommend using 3d lac as even heated to 120C its hard to remove. As you said it would be better to do that on a glass sheet. But glass sheets are old school, no affordable printer manufacturer uses those any more as majority of people print PLA or PETG or sometimes ASA, PC or PA which are also okish on flex sheet. This video is testing AllPHA on MK4, if I had Ultimaker with a set of glass sheets to test it on I would, but I dont.
@@StudioSpaceDust thanks for the reply I just bought an A1 mini with PHA filament from beyondplastic they just released their second gen PHA filament
Hey no problem, thanks for asking. In this video it was all about AllPHA from ColorFabb, so I'm not sure if this will imply to this filament you mentioned as I am not familiar with that, especially since its from another manufacturer. There are other filaments even from ColorFabb like PLA/PHA which are 100% biodegradable but they are not 0% microplastics as AllPHA. I have not tested them but I would assume they print much easier than AllPHA since they are probably mixed with PLA. PHA on its own is made out of fat cells of bacteria, and then some added colour pigment, that's why its harder to print it. Just googled the filament you mentioned. Seems liks its 100% PHA, so let me know once you tried printing. Maybe you have better experience!
@@StudioSpaceDust i printed my first print on the A1 mini and changed the recommended print settings, no warping, no brim, printed on textured PEI amazing filament but i printed about the size of a bottle cap yet still very impressive results for PHA from beyond plastic, came off fairly easily no heated bed required. Edit: tiny tiny bit of warping but not visible to my eye upon first impressions
Tha ks for the update, sounds similar to ColorFabbs AlPHA, if you later print bigger object like those boxes in my video let me know, also is PHA from Beyond Plastics also easy to cut and scratch prone?
Thank you for the video.
Thank you. After 5 videos, you are the first to show how to simply remove the nozzle, not the whole assembly : D
You are welcome! By the way, now Prusa has released one too, they have also uploaded a apecial tool for that, it wasnt available when I made a video, so make aure to check this link. www.printables.com/model/801656-mk4-nozzle-replacement-tool
Just ordered a Mk4 kit last night. Does Pursa provide a torque rating for the nozzle? (Assuming it’s not already screwed into the heat block) Like, 20 inch-pounds? 3 newton-meters? Or is it just kinda a guess?
Hey, congratulations on your new kit. It is 1.5 Nm (13.3 lb-in) you can check this article for more details help.prusa3d.com/guide/how-to-replace-the-prusa-nozzle-mk4-mk3-9_421215
Looks like something i need to do,. Can you tell me what fans you used please?? Or maybe a link. I'm interested in the airflow rate... Thank you! Great Job!
Hi Steve, I used AC Infinity Multifan S3. These fans are very quiet and have inbuilt controller, you can set fan on Low/Medium/High flow (~$20 on Amazon). These fans uses usb port so if you have old phone charger it can be reused to power the fan/fans. I used two of these fans only because I had them already but one will do job just as fine. But… any 120mm fan will work with Prusa Enclosure, maybe nowadays there are better fans, Noctura is also very good brand. Link to fans I used amzn.eu/d/7x7aLOS you can use link in video description to get printable files if you wish to use what I used in video.
dude thats fuckin awful advice... if you have aleak let it go... dude no... at the worst case sceneario you can remove all parts and fuckin blast them with a flame until all the plastic burns away and they get red hot... then theyre like brand new
If you do that then: 1) you melt aluminum heater block 2) hardened steel nozzle becomes ruined if you exceed 300C or whatever is set as max temp by manufacturer. Thats why some use soldering iron, so that they dont overheat it. But if you want to blast it, of course it’s your choice. Not to mention your cables will melt too, in some cases, as in mine thermistor cable was melted to heater block, blasting it with flame would have just burnt it. This can i ly be done with Prusa brass nozzle. I have done it myself after i clogged it, in that case, yes it worked, I also used 2mm drill to remove filament stuck inside.