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Aaaaaaaah the good ole days🤘🤘🤘🤘🤘

More thoughts.Because the rear wheels have full floating axles, you have to withdraw the axles to check for wobble in the bearings ;the axles in place prevent the wheels from wobbling. Just undo the 6 bolts and withdraw the axle. Then do the wobble test. Adjusting the tapered rollers is a fine art. Just when you get all the wobble out, but no binding of the wheel, then you install and tighten the locknut, it pushes the adjuster nut just that little bit tighter into the bearing, making it too tight. The manual isn't much help. It just says "Tighten nut till wheel binds, then back off 1/6 turn. Problem is ; No matter how tight you do up the nut, the wheel won't bind, even when you know the bearing is done up much too tightly. Eventually, you get a 'feel' for how tight the bearing should be, before installing the locknut and lock plate. Wheel should turn freely when spun, with no wobble when rocked side to side. Then reinstall the axles.

Another thought; the oil seal on the pinion end of the front diff is probably dry because there's no oil in the diff, having all leaked out aeons ago. If it's been used on a farm, chances are it's never been looked at. You'd be best to order a new seal for that, too. And when making fuel lines; the outlet is under the high side of the tank. It runs directly across the underside of the tub, turns 90 degrees, runs under the passenger side, turns up at the firewall then right into the fuel filter. Another line runs out of the fuel filter, turns down the side of the fender, to the frame where it joins a flexible connection which in turn, connects to a steel line running along the right side of the engine, across the timing cover to the fuel pump. From there by another steel line up to the carby. You'll have lots of fun finding these fun facts as you go on. There are lots of 'bubba modifications which were added to jeeps to keep them going. But yours looks to be in amazingly original condition, notwithstanding the crud and dents and rust. You're lucky. The tub appears not to have ever been separated from the frame. ' The presence of 'pal nuts' (pressed steel locking nuts) on the tub to body bolts indicates that. Nobody ever put them back on. And the rust holes are minor compared with most 80 year old farm jeeps. They can be patched well,with the tub still on the jeep, if you take care, and don't mind welding upside down.

That 'extra ' spring on the drivers' side is a "Torque reaction Spring'. Because the steering bellcrank is mounted on the front axle housing, when the brakes are applied, the wheel wants to stop,but the tire touching the road still wants to keep going, The axle housing tries to rotate in a forward direction.But since the steering bellcrank is mounted on the axle, it rotates too forcing the steering tie rods to push the steering knuckles on the front wheels to the left, resulting in the jeep abruptly and unexpectedly swerving to the left. Experienced jeep drivers knew to instantly jerk the steering wheel to the right to compensate. It was a deadly fault. So the makers added that thick extra tramp rod style spring to the driver's side to make the spring pack less flexible. It only partly worked, and post war jeeps had the steering bellcrank mounted on the underside of the radiator support crossmember, where it couldn't be influence by axle tramp. But the Australian Army largely discarded the reaction spring, not knowing what it was and not caring. Just making sure their drivers were aware of the vicious left hand swerve. With care it has proved o.K. I have three GPW's, all without the TRS and have driven many miles without incident (but all have 10 leaves on the front springs.)

Storage? Or car hauler?

Very cool and informative stuff! Thank you for sharing your adventures with us!

Awesome content as always 👌

Want to see them all Nick 🤣love your videos keep them coming 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🤙

Nice videos happy to see you posted

I would love to mess with one of these haha

The best content 👌

Hi nick I am 14 and I got my first engine and it had rust in the cylinders and in the last cylinder I can’t get the piston out it have rust in it and I was wondering if you could possibly give me some suggestions on how to remove the piston thanks

Hi nick love the video good job been watching for a while

I wasn't expecting that accent hi from Cambridge England 🇺🇲🇬🇧👍

Floats to the bottom!!!!😂

On the driver's side they added a brake reaction spring to counter hard braking which could pull the Jeep to the left. This is because the steering pivot is on the axle.

And another thing...the way to check if you have early war (type 1) or laye war (type 2) radio supressuon is if you have tinned spots where your bonding straps are and where body panels meet, or toothed washers. Bonding points us early war and theyll be located all.over the tub, grill,fenders etc. Theyre very important to the grounding of the vehicle and how its electrics work as the electrical system grounds to the body and not the battery.

That little straight line mark on the steering gearbox arm is your ce reline mark so you know your steering is in a straight line. You're supposed to line up the steering and the steering wheel and thst is a witness mark for straight steering. Then you adjust it with the tie rod ends.

Thank you for the segment this week, I am excited to see it as you keep breaking it down and get it put back together. It's going to make a world of difference.

The half a leaf spring is an anti wrap spring. The steering is mounted to the axle and when you brake suddenly the axle rotates and steers the Jeep. That was Willys attempt to minimize the dart. Yes ^^^^ is right, your mangled shield is a splash shield for the generator. Don't forget to order a bushing kit for the steering bell crank that it mounted to the axle. Unless the PO just fixed it probably is loose.

it has a lot of potential...these old jeeps are getting harder to find and more desirable as time goes by.

The two caps for the fuel tank sump are to drain water when the Jeep goes into deep water and mud.

That's a splash shield for your generator and starter motor, if it's a Ford one it'll have a little F stamp near the tab bracket at the rear.

Looks intense 😮

The Philippines make new parts for jeeps .

could this be used as a safe tattoo remover

I want it

Does it make the paint not lead?

Let me guess, $5,000? Just found them, and the least expensive one is $12,000😢

Also helps with the nasty calluses on my wife's feet.

one time I put standard size pistons in a .030 over block. It ran

Amazing it was saved. It’s easy to do. Put on a blindfold and throw it together. One reason I like my 1990-2000s engine. Pretty much everything goona be STD But yes. A blind man coulda diagnosed that during assembly. People do last by doing shady work. Look at you. Fixing their cock up. If you don’t tell them Or Customer don’t tell them They will keep on doing it.

Thanks

I do media blasting.....not for long.... this will pay for itself in a month.

If anyone is wondering...as of November 2024 these laser cleaners retail for around $12,500 USD.

This is insanely effective, a huge money and time saver! A machine worth it's weight in gold multiple times over! very cool

Here is more information on the cleaner if anyone wants the tech specs etc:- www.everlastgenerators.com/product/redsabre-300cp-pulse-laser-cleaner

This is mind blowing tech fair play

Madness 😮, more this is shown the better 👏

Bahaha, fun short video. I can't wait for the laser cleaner!!

Everything is so much simpler in hindsight, eh? 😂

Very nice the wily jeep and engine is coming along very well

interesting! I've never seen a crankshaft PTO (never even heard of it). That's pretty cool, I'll be looking forward to seeing how it works when you put it on the M38.

Knowing is half the battle!! G.I.Joe! Very nice and informative. Thank you

Nick...get onto Ron Fitzpatrick Jeep Parts and Kaiser Willys for parts. Ron sells the correct paint, its #33070 US Army Olive Drab.

So you have the ACM 2 tub it seems with the Willys tool box lock indents, you have the Ford style tool box lods...they'll have an F stamp on the latch. You're missing one of the rear seat frame hooks that the frame slides up and down when folding rhe seat or opening it up. The rear panel is supposed to be one peice, the rear door cut in the back has now ruined the rear panels strength but cutting the hat channel. You have late war rear panel strengthening gussets.

That small box on the passenger side is the Radio Junction Box thst you plug in wartime field radios. It would be a "suppressed" G503 Jeep, itll have an "S" painted on the side ofbthe cab cowling panels where they curve down in front of the windscreen folding hinges. These radio junction boxes are rare to find intact, let alone still connecfed to a Jeep. You'll notice jt will have bonding straps all over either going to tinned spots or it'll have toothed washers. Tinned bonding points was Supression system 1 whichbwas early war, toothed washers was late war supression system 2. I also noticed your oartner dropped the drive shaft universal joint bracket on the ground when she was putting the old rotten tarp into the garbage bag. You'll need that part to secure your universale joint and driveshaft to the output yoke on your transfer case. You alsonhave the drivers seat riser at the bottom rear of thebseat frame, theyre often missing too and are not a repeoduction part so look after it. It should be welded to the drivers frame and bolted to the floor. Youll see three caged nuts and holes behind the drivers seat for that. You also seem to have the Ford GPW drivers seat, which should have a cursive "f" stamped on the backrest. The Willys seat has a join and weld st the top, the Ford seat is one peice bent frame. You have a late war steering, early war had a black Sheller plastic steering wheel. You might have an ACM tub if there is no Ford/Willys stamped on the back lower left of the rear panel. ACM 1 had the straight Willyw style firewall gussets and had Willys style hat channel on the bottom of the floor. The ACM 2 has the round edge Ford style firewall gussets and round tool box lock indents and Ford style hat channels.

I am just glad that the stuck one was able to be Punched Through without needing an Ultimatum ;)

Awesome stuff , found this v very interesting indeed

Very cool excited to see it fully rebuilt and in the jeep good job love the videos