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Yes, it's still ok to run it. The ground and neutral wires are ultimately bonded together at the source via a green bonding screw in the main panel. Whenever in doubt though, the best practice is to make the ground with the rest of the ground wires and the neutral with the rest of the neutrals.

The Primary AC line was clogged. This happens over time as dirt and dust move off the coil with condensation and into the drain line. Over time it builds up and develops a blockage.

I,m guessing you have two units or one of the black hoses is abandoned. It's also possible that one of the black hoses is connected to the water heater pan.

@@HowitsdoneHandyman I cleared them both out just in case! Great video!!!

Yeah, home depot discontinued the item just as I was about to do this so I had to order from amazon. Here is the link. www.amazon.com/Rheem-SP12112G-Brass-Drain-Valve/dp/B00DSOQ90K/ref=asc_df_B00DSOQ90K/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693467269859&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3537557125048027832&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1026744&hvtargid=pla-349318956882&psc=1&mcid=8ea6c533f23e349e998a984793bf5818&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwl4yyBhAgEiwADSEjeKTG2S7ApfAHW2Fexptu2tHN643CDmwhMt_tHgHhaliomhjkO8YzTRoCJ6oQAvD_BwE

you need a junction box on every light fixture per code even though he used the worng one

@@jjparks9263 I only drill a hole in the my brick, put the box in the drywall as you would any other box, sealed up the outside with some silicone.

First off thanks for the great questions. So the cost of running copper is very difficult because there are so many variables to consider. for example, the number of branch circuits, panel location, accessibility, and so on. I can say that for this particular home, it was a 2-story 200a panel located in a detached garage. If we were going to be replacing sheetrock due to flood damage or remodeling i would say it would be worth the investment. As far as the outlets are concerned, I actually saved quite a bit by using CO/ALR outlets. The outlet itself costs about the same as 1 wire nut and you would need 2 wire nuts and a regular outlet so more than twice the cost to use purple wire nuts. Product links are below. www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-15-Amp-Duplex-CO-ALR-Outlet-White-12650-W/100357043 www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-Twister-Al-Cu-Wire-Connectors-Purple-10-Pack-30-1765S/202935623?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA_2024_Q2_INCREMENTAL&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA_2024_Q2_INCREMENTAL-71700000118279182--&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwxLKxBhA7EiwAXO0R0FLq31r3ufNmSNkUwO5RM-DjZr1LSFnKpg6L0iM9tMeURq9VMVwh6hoC2fIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds Finally to your last question. The purple wire nuts are not for use on exclusively Al connections. If copper is present 2 Al or 2 Cu conductors are acceptable. Below is a link to the Home Depot bag of purple wire nuts and on the image of the back of the bag it goes over the UL listed conductor size and metal combinations. www.homedepot.com/p/IDEAL-Twister-Al-Cu-Wire-Connectors-Purple-10-Pack-30-1765S/202935623?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&pla&mtc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA_2024_Q2_INCREMENTAL&cm_mmc=SHOPPING-CM-CML-GGL-D27E-027_011_TOOLS_ACC-NA-NA-NA-PMAX-NA-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-NA_2024_Q2_INCREMENTAL-71700000118279182--&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwxLKxBhA7EiwAXO0R0FLq31r3ufNmSNkUwO5RM-DjZr1LSFnKpg6L0iM9tMeURq9VMVwh6hoC2fIQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds#overlay Thanks again for the questions. I'm glad this was helpful to you.

@@HowitsdoneHandyman Did I read that correctly? This is a 2-story house with a garage that is Separate... And the 200amp panel is located in the garage? I want to know what went through their minds to do that.

@@robertsteich7362 To be honest here in Texas that's fairly common.

It's not that old LOL. Knob and tube stopped being used in the 30s and grounds started being used in the 60s-70s. This house has a recently updated panel so I'm not sure if it originally had a fused panel or not since they were pretty much phased out by the 60s. I know you didn't mention it but the 60s and '70s were the same period that aluminum wiring was being used. That's an entirely different ball game as well. Thanks for the comment.

the worst is how loud the intro music is in comparison to the bit of video before it. woke up my neighbor.

Really old phone that is still being used for recording

@@chadmargraf4020 he could have at least matched the volume of the rest of the video and the intro music

Yeah, good observation. I actually mentioned that in the description since my recording equipment died before I could get the plate and sticker on. Ironic that I run out of juice while working on electrical LOL. Thanks for the comment.

Yeah, but I've never actually seen a box with two-prong outlets where the box was properly grounded, so good luck actually finding that situation. (And if there is actually a proper ground running to the box, and you've got a screwdriver, then you might as well just swap it out for a three-prong outlet anyway, and then you won't need the adapter at all.)

@@foogod4237 It is good to use a GFCI anyway. It hurts nothing and it will immediately trip on a fault if here is any kind of ground connection. One cannot easily determine if a ground is proper. It requires professional equipment. A simple socket tester will not show it.

It doesn't. If you're talking about the fact that it has "T-shaped" slots, the horizontal slots are because there was actually an earlier configuration for (120V ungrounded) plugs in the early 1900s which had two horizontal pins, instead of two vertical ones (but they slowly fell out of use as the vertical design became more popular and was ultimately officially standardized).. These outlets were just designed to support both of the old types of 120V plugs (vertical pins and horizontal pins).

Dude added some ugly fixtures. Helpful video though!

Thanks for the feedback, No adhesive is needed, the rubber backing combined with the weight of the flooring keeps it from shifting. When they are all assembled you basically have a giant sheet of flooring. Just ensure the surface you're placing it on is clean before applying. This is the same flooring used in the investment property I'm doing. Check out the latest in that series here. Before ruclips.net/video/XAa_I8HUqc8/видео.html After ruclips.net/video/2ULgkTMs3RY/видео.html

Good question, I ended up using crimp connectors to connect each strip of lights to one line feeding vertically inside the far cabinet space where I said there was really no way to hide the wires. From there I fed that one line through the top and to the power supply. Most power supplies come with the connectors you need to easily make them up. Here are some links to the connectors and power supply I used. I did end up going back later with some wiremold strips to hide the wires. www.amazon.com/dp/B07G5W9PH1?asc_source=01H2FV8WY4S2GZC8Y7GASAYV5X&tag=namespacebran500-20&th=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B5QBYSGP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Let me know if you have any questions and I'll be happy to help.

I was going to get the battery packs and remotes from Ali Express but found the more cost-effective solution was just to buy a string light set with the box and remote from Amazon and just cut off the lights they come with. Here's a link to a 4-pack for $20 www.amazon.com/dp/B0C76N9BQJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?pd_rd_i=B0C76N9BQJ&pd_rd_w=kZFqb&content-id=amzn1.sym.08ba9b95-1385-44b0-b652-c46acdff309c&pf_rd_p=08ba9b95-1385-44b0-b652-c46acdff309c&pf_rd_r=J7HBJ3C6XKJQGRBX5AZM&pd_rd_wg=WThUv&pd_rd_r=0b6e3544-8e33-4cb0-b55a-e3dc0efb8740&s=hi&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSDJLVU5YNTQzMlY3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODk5Njc0MkRFQjBIVlFBOFRVUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ4MzUyMjlSQlExMFVKUElFSCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

I was going to get the battery packs and remotes from Ali Express but found the more cost-effective solution was just to buy a string light set with the box and remote from Amazon and just cut off the lights they come with. Heres a link to a 4 pack for $20 www.amazon.com/dp/B0C76N9BQJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?pd_rd_i=B0C76N9BQJ&pd_rd_w=kZFqb&content-id=amzn1.sym.08ba9b95-1385-44b0-b652-c46acdff309c&pf_rd_p=08ba9b95-1385-44b0-b652-c46acdff309c&pf_rd_r=J7HBJ3C6XKJQGRBX5AZM&pd_rd_wg=WThUv&pd_rd_r=0b6e3544-8e33-4cb0-b55a-e3dc0efb8740&s=hi&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzSDJLVU5YNTQzMlY3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwODk5Njc0MkRFQjBIVlFBOFRVUCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwOTQ4MzUyMjlSQlExMFVKUElFSCZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

If you're referring to the stars themselves the link is below and they are actually on sale at the moment. www.potterybarn.com/products/galvanized-marquee-star/?pkey=s~star~186

LOL, just share this with your friends 🤛. Seriously though, I'm glad to hear when my videos actually help.

Yeah, I hear you on that one, honestly, I've seen that a lot in the Texas heat. The trade-off is after 20 years the screws in metal boxes get pretty rusted in place.

Pretty much, I intercepted the wire for the other light in the attic and made a J-Box with a single gang plastic box and blank plate.

Here's a link to the one I used. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MZNMJYP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

It really doesn't matter if the AC is on or not. either way, the primary drain pan is going to be full of water.

I've actually moved it out to the center of the yard since I put a canvas cover over the pergola but its holding up nicely.

The line dripping in front of the window is the secondary. The primary is the insulated line at 0.22 seconds. Blowing in the line typically doesn't work because it just pushes the blockage back in the unit and will eventually clog again. depending on your setup you may need to block off the vent on the primary to properly clear it. The drip pan under the unit is the secondary drain pan and shouldn't have water in it. If there's water there there's a problem.

​@@HowitsdoneHandymanThat problem you are referring to is that the primary line most likely is clogged and that I may have to perform what you did in your video?

@@Tvo281 That's correct!

@@HowitsdoneHandyman How long did you run the shop vac for?

@@Tvo281 It varies depending on how long the line is and how much is backed up in the unit. Normally the clog is cleared within the first few seconds but you want to collect the remaining water in the line so it doesn't get all over. 30 sec to 1 minute should work under most situations.