- Видео 15
- Просмотров 58 140
Craftedbytubbs
Добавлен 7 июл 2013
I am an artist and craftsman, driven by the belief that anything imaginable can be brought to life. With a deep sense of poise and inspiration, I transform ideas into reality, making inanimate objects flow and breathe.
Building Supercar, Bumper time. Using parts
Follow me as a build a supercar out of a c4 Corvette and 240Z. Today we're working on the bumper. #supercar #c4corvette #fairlady #240z #automobile #carcraft #foryou #classic #art #craftedbytubbs #Diy #garagebuilt
Просмотров: 299
Видео
Building Supercar from parts car. C4 Corvette with 240z
Просмотров 76621 час назад
I'm using two parts cars to build one supercar along with skills and talent. #supercar #art #foryou #craftedbytubbs #sportscar #cheepsupercar #automobile #oldschool #carcraft #classic #454 #corvette #240z
First drive in 1954 Cadillac, Making room for Custom projects.
Просмотров 7 тыс.День назад
#makelifebetter #craftedbytubbs #classiccadillac #automobile #classic #454 #oldschool #cadillac #carcraft #cruising #art #cartok #foryou
today's shenanigans and first cruise in Cadillac
Просмотров 43День назад
Installing starter on 1954 Cadillac, moving cars around. First cruise in 54 Cadillac with 454ci BBC and 700r4.#cruising #454 #foryou #hotrod #cadillac #automobile #carcraft #classic #oldschool
Finishing odds and ends on the 1954 Cadillac
Просмотров 13528 дней назад
1954 Cadillac with 454 big block Chevy with 700r4 retrofit. Getting it closer to road worthy.
1954 Cadillac Extending Driveshaft
Просмотров 32Месяц назад
Extending Driveshaft on 54 Cadillac Restomod for 454 with 700r4 retrofit.
short video of some recent work I have done.
Просмотров 1,8 тыс.Месяц назад
Pictures of work and cruising to a car show in the 1940 and 1936 Ford's. #1940ford #automobile #classic #classiccadillac #fabrication #art #foryou #automobile #carcraft #craftedbytubbs #hotrod
240z wide body
Просмотров 1963 года назад
widening the rear quarters of my 1972 240z that had pretty rusty rear quarters to begin with. keeping the body lines. removing the rust. doing all of this in a 1 car garage and a $100 DOLLAR EBAY WELDER.
First start 1957 chevy panel truck 5.7 vortec
Просмотров 2385 лет назад
Starting my truck after complete rebuild 5.7 with vortec heads .045 quench open headers and sounds crisp.
18650 what fuse wire to use cell fusing lithium ion battery pack ev
Просмотров 46 тыс.8 лет назад
I'm going over what cell fuse to use
Why am I here? I was just watching a Mr. Beast related video😅
Not sure, funny tho lol
im confused, no hate, but whats the end goal here?
@@Naveee. Ha.. yea, hard to see right now but end goal is to put enough 240z parts on it to register as 240z and no smog while keeping the Corvette subframe and running gear. It's very rough now and will start showing true form shortly
SOOO AWESOME!!! 🤩
You need better music
Those are some beautiful fucking cars dude you are highly underrated.
Thank you, really appreciate it
Thank you
Why can't someone ever just say this is how to fuse a li on battery and why we do it this way
Very logical, well thought out video discussing this overlooked safety feature
Think you've got one sub from me 😃👍
00:14 shocked out of engine sound (headphones)
You see that? That brown shit? ITS CORROSION. PROTECT YOURSELF.
Have y never have fuse blow?
Why would you fuse the cell for a lower value than it's high discharge value?
Maxing out your amperage puts more wear and tear on battery. I
W
Late to the replies but there really is not much on the internet about cell-level fusing for recycled 18650 packs ... there really isn't. For me, I've tried tinned copper wire and it just doesn't fuse unless it's super thin, had to go to 34-36 AWG tinned copper wire to get a fuse that blows at even close to 10amps, and the problem then is, it won't spot weld very easily to 18650's (I simply do not want to solder 18650's ... there's enough evidence out there that shows how much heat gets transferred into the cells). Hell, you can barely see 36 AWG tinned copper wire! I've tried 30AWG tinned copper wire but it simply carries too much current too easily ... I've finally rested on using either pure nickel strips or nickel plated steel strips (they actually fuse slightly easier and quicker than pure nickel) of cross-sectional area of 0.15mm2 ... or in other words ... 1.5mm x 0.1mm strips ... fuses in the 5 amp range and is incredibly easy to spot weld.
I think he said for his ev his fuse went out at 6 amps
Any fuse is better than none. Fuse it baby!
If you put coil or loop in the fuse it will burn out quicker and probably in that spot.
That is correct. The behavior of a fuse, and the speed at which it blows, is much more complicated than a single strand of wire.
It's not just diameter and material used. Longer wires will burn quicker because shorter ones have more heat sinking via battery terminal and bus bar.
A curve or S shape wire will burn out quicker due to being longer and concentrating heat in middle, like inside car fuses.
Compared to straight wire of same thickness
I don't know about the steel wire because the rest are copper that is tined or nickel plated I'd take a long piece of that steel wire and see what the resistance is vs like that fuse wire
What would be an interest and very useful video would be to take the shorted cell and try and pump 100A through it. Seems a higher voltage system might be safer as you would have less amps.
doesn't the bms is supposed to have a thermal and over-current protection in order to prevent that from happening?
If you're running 3 cells in parallel and they each have a 9 amp fuse that would be 27 amps on that line.
if one of them is in shortcut...it is still 9 amp fuse
RESISTANCE is a batteries WORST enemy. So why on this earth are you using RESISTORS for the fuse wire connecting all the parallel cells?????. Just figure out total amperage you will draw,divide by x amount of cells in parallel and choose between 18-28 Gauge COPPER wire for the fuses. In my 18650 pack, Its a 24s 14p Using Samsung -25r cells rated at 20 amps. The controller will pull max of 300 amps. 300/14=21.4 amps my fuse has to be able to take,so 16-18 g fuse wire. The MAIN reason for Tesla style fuses is that if a cell reverses polarity then the total amount of amperage in the parallel group x X amount of cells gets transfered to that one cell and will easily break the 16-18 g wire,for example. Using used varying capacity and more importantly differing resistance cells in a parallel group is asking for trouble, in which case your doing the right thing.
You dont use the actually resistor. You cut the wire off the resistor and use the wire. It typically blows around 6 amps.
How about using this : www.aliexpress.com/item/18650-battery-pure-nickel-belt-3P-4P-5P-6P-lithium-battery-nickel-strip-Li-ion-batteries/2053339372.html?spm=2114.10010108.1000013.5.1327b1f2fcOwpt&traffic_analysisId=recommend_2088_3_90158_iswistore&scm=1007.13339.90158.0&pvid=232efa10-4ad0-487f-8503-50eb27617347&tpp=1
did you said little more then 2 amp cells, if you are protecting the cells, why are you using 9 amp fusing, I thing it should be somewhere around 2 or 3 amp fuses
This is because he does'nt seem to understand the difference between Amps and Amphours.... these cells have a capacity of around 2 Amphours (= 2Ah = 2000mAh) but they can easily deliver currents of more than 10 Amps. The so called "C-Rating" of a cell describes with which current it is safe to charge / discharge. A Cell with 2 Ah and a 5C Rating is safe to discharge with 10 Amps.
Hi Steve, I see you are using an impedance meter SM8124. How do you find it with 18650's?
WoodyJim . Yea, I use it a lot, it's pretty accurate as well l. I am for impedance of below 80 for my good usable ones which have lower internal resistance.
Steven Tubbs thanks man, 300 packs on the way for me to process for my powerwall, I think I'd be mad not to test for impedance as I go. Even a comparative test is better than none at all.
After testing various options (Nichrome wire, Bare Copper, Steel) I ended up using single thread from a multicore IDC cable. It's around 0.1 mm thick and at 1.5 cm length, it fusing current is around 5.5A, which is what I needed.
So glad you mention the length of the wire, since that is one of the factors in determining when and how fast the fuse will blow. The amount of heat generated by the glowing wire before actually melting is different under different conditions. It is important to understand the relation between resistivity, length and diameter of the wire.
I want to use a powerwall as either a backup to grid power in the event of an outage or a way to store power to take advantages of lower day rates. So my question is, do they make an inverter that will also correctly recharge the powerwall (18650 cells)?? If so can you share a link?
why do we use a fuse ? being a naive in this Field I don't know much
There is a possibility that a cell could fail as short. A fuse is used to remove that cell from the battery array and possibly prevent it from overheating, smoking, catching on fire, or exploding.
jehue is really good? dude talks about not worrying about his charge profile "Because these cells are survivors" when asked he didnt know what a dendrite was. From what ive seen he got a bit better as he goes but his critical flaw is inability to admit when he was wrong. I tried to show him BMS's that could do redistribuitive balancing...aka longer run time by shunting charge from strong to weak while in use but all he could do is bitch that i dare point out anything wrong.
Johnathan Wuethrich do you have any information on that BMS? I would love to learn more about BMS myself.
been a while and im caught up in a project with a simple bms(but a lot of other chips) but i think this was the off the shelf solution V cds.linear.com/docs/en/lt-journal/LTJournal-V23N1-01-df-LTC3300-1-Drew.pdf ...btw coil craft will probably send you free samples. A few diff companies have versions of this... it relys on a flyback voltage converter and this implementation is specificly designed for large bats like you build because it redistrubites from a set of 6+(top of my head) cells to an adjacent cell or set. )the more diy aproach can be found if you search switched capacitor active cell balancing. for that you will need 2 generate 2 offset squarewaves(cheap ebay siggens) and fets between cells... there are some university research papers/sr student implimentations floating arround.
BMS will only manage individual cell voltage for cells configured in series. For example if you put three 18650 cells in series (3S), you get around 12 volts (11.1 voltage nominal). Adding a BMS to make sure that each cell in the series is balance while draining and charging makes good sense. However, Jehu is creating a battery with all the cells in parallel, so they're e all the same voltage. A BMS can't help in this situation, it would treat all the parallel cells as a single cell (1S). Then he connects these blocks of 4.1V battery arrays in series to get the final voltage he desires. Now he could use a BMS to monitor each battery array block while charging or discharging, but a BMS for the individual 4.1V battery array doesn't make sense.
+Don Mega ...see "milking batteryt booster" the concept has been around since pree fucking electrification of the us...aka it came about during the ac vs dc wars...aka birth of the modern age. as for its implementation with switched caps... those are already in use in tons of devices and have been since the dawn of transistor or slightly after. There is nothing unsound about either concept. when you guys form the satanic church of raw lipocell do let me know...ill bash myself on the head till i have a single diggit iq and come have a fucking blast ... the dogma of the idiots surrounding your queen is astounding. +ricardo moreno. do you mean to tell me that every pack we see him produce is all 3.7v ? oh god i hit read more and watched you go in a circle with logic...was explaing basic pack constructgion that hard? it doesnt make sense that you think he can get each p group to 4.1v at the same time with out monitoring and using at least a resistive shunt on the first few groups of cells. ohms law is not optional to obey...it will occur regardless of how hard you try to wish it away. thats one of a few things i can point out. i dont have time to fix both you circular reasoning and try to get you at 101 level with basic ee concepts
@Don Mega Jehu is an expert in 'stretching' the rules. He refuses to acknowledge the danger before his house burns to the ground. Experience can be a bitch.
would you still fuse the pack if you bought brand new batteries, looking to build a ebike battery pack,
Yes, does not matter, all cells fail at some point.,
I see a problem with your deductions. you are looking at wire that is rated for what voltage ? if this wire is rated at 9 amps or 15 amps, yet it is for 12 or 24 volts. than the actual amp range for your pack ( at 4.2 volts ) is much higher than you think. a 9 amp wire at 12 volts would be a 22 - 27 amp wire at 4 volts. ( or somewhere close to that ) . you need to test your fuse wire using the highest voltage that your pack can make. 4.2 volts and then put a load on it . ( yes , No ) what do you think ?
I see a problem with _your_ deductions. Voltage has *zero* effect on fusing. It is current only that decides when wire will fuse. Do some research on Preece and Onderdonk.
Incorrect...voltage is for practical REAL WORLD purposes almost irrelevant..I can run 28 g hair thickness copper wire across 120 volts with .3 amp and nothing happens...voltage is nothing without AMPS
Totally right..... and.... totally wrong jajajajaja yes, volts blow the fuses, but the volts across the fuse, not across the battery itself, and that voltage depends on the amps crossing that wire and the resistance of that wire ..... that's why we use ( I^2 * R ) to analyze fuses or energy losses on wires instead of ( V^2 / R ) thats its applicable too with V = " the difference of potential across the fuse ".
@@RajinderYadav I thought I said that....
You do know that amperages are different between AC & DC, for a given voltage & wattage. That's why you should never use AC switches for DC currents & circuits. Fuses for AC will handle completely differently, when used in DC circuits...
I know. I don't have any AC switches
I was referring to the AC fuse wire which will not work at the stated maximums for DC. The key difference between a fuse's AC voltage rating and its DC voltage rating is a question of being able to stop the arc that forms when the fuse blows. DC arcs are much harder to stop than AC arcs, so you'll regularly see fuses that are rated for, say, 250VAC but only 32VDC.
Helpful , thanks. I don't understand how you calculate amps and amp draw. Please explain. 👍
Thanks for sharing
Tinned copper wire/galvanised wire is NOT fuse wire !!! fuse wire is an alloy of lead and tin , designed to have low resistance in normal use , and to blow quickly ... using copper wire will waste energy heating the wire in normal use , it could get up to 800C in normal use without blowing , high temp heating cells , burning plastic and it needs 1000C to blow! ... this link explains why not to use copper as fuse wire ....www.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_Composition_of_fuse_wire
Thanks for the tip.
so what would you use then?
Not easy to answer that ..Tesla use aluminium fuses , a good choice , doesn't oxidise when heated and low (660*C) melting point ...trouble is you can't solder it! My opinion now is fuses are not necessary , and am not using them in my powerwall ... If you're convinced they are then tinned copper wire is the best choice , this is the cheapest way to buy it if you don't mind stripping cable (14 AWG cable , 41 strands of 0.25mm) www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262256456691?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=561004046988&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT ... galvanised iron wire not a good idea
oz93666 , thank you, great tip.
Incorrect and just plain wrong..abviously you are regurgitating and have no practical experience. By the way Tesla fuses are NOT A REAL FUSE. lol
i use 35awg thinned copper wire. fuse wire rated at around 5a snd works great. can be found on ebay among other. and always test em :)
5a per cell? What awg wire should i use if it puts out 20a cont and 50a max
0.63mm - 20amps ,1.25mm 40amps, 1.50mm for 63amp
6 min just talking about how the super hero go to the moon with out ship
15mts=15 meters. Galvanized wire is hard to solder. Why don’t you try using 30 AWG bare copper wire soldering each battery to a bus bar or wire to make the series connection? This way each battery is protected equally. Try using a small section of 18ga stranded wire with 16 strands (each strand is 30ga) or with 7 strands (each strand is 26ga). Remove the outer cover so you have loose strands. After calculating how much amperage draw your max usage is , look at chart www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm to find appropriate wire gauge. You can also put full load through each wire to see which can handle load and see if it will fail when used with a dead short (connected + to - with no load for single battery). If this works satisfactory, you now have the proper wire gauge to use for your battery pack. If you can find wire that has been pre-tinned that would be ideal. Try using clear plastic vinyl stereo wire where one side looks silver and one side looks copper color. The silver colored one is tinned. Tinned wire solders very easily, and the less heat used to solder to the batteries the better. Heat degrades batteries.
If you can’t find tinned copper wire, buss wire, 30 AWG, look at... www.remingtonindustries.com/tinned-copper-wire/tinned-copper-wire-buss-wire-30-awg-silver-100-length /?
Jay Obrine THANKS for the knowledge, ill definitely try that
It maybe late but I use 1/8 watt resistor ends mine blow at around 6 to 6.5 amps. But my packs are on my power shelves. For the current draw you want try a single wire from a 10ga cable. I would think it will blow at around 12amps there are about 12 wires or more in the 10ga cable. Nice car
Thank you for the tip! 6.5 amps would be good. I cant imagine pulling any more than that.
your really good at making stuff, AMAZING😄
This is a great video