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You’d have to ask the electricians who were subbed out on this building in 2005 man I’m here to get the heat goin 😂

Some of the shit we see nowadays.

fmc? lock tight? do you mean mc and liquid tight?

@@az.-prepper5173I would agree haha

Flexible Metal conduit and yes I meant liquid tight.

I know right?! Nothing better than a good torque wrench to ensure a proper seal. Keep watchin the video it’s in there lmao 😆🤙🏽

@ I saw it I have the same torque wrench. Blackmax

@ yep it’s been good so far for me , I like the presets you can do with it for different piping sizes as well. Thanks for watching man 🤙🏽

😂🤙🏽

I understand I will keep working on getting better all around! 💪🏽😎 gracias!

100% 🤙🏽

Good point, gotta keep an eye on that on these old units! Thanks for watchin Mike

Notice he doesn't say that. He says new board. Kind of like a parts changer

@@IntelligentElephantit would be nice if we all could do that, but there’s enough to know and warranty with this garbage these big companies put out. Why should an HVAC tech make a repair in the field and take responsibility for any issues in the future when it’s a bad part to begin with? Then get labeled a parts changer…well ya specially if it’s a new unit and still under warranty in getting them a new one for nothing and putting it in.

@@drewstaf2955 it literally takes 10 minutes to fix those soldier joints. Stronger and better than the factory ever did. How long does it take to go to store and back? Can you not test the board for function on job site? See it's your limited knowledge that makes you clap back at me so quickly. Because that's a VERY simple soldier job. Literally a ten minute job. But yeah under warranty you might as well replace

@@drewstaf2955thanks Drew! Definitely not a parts changer but replys like that are typical on the internet! I let the customer know we can do this or we can do that you decide lol. And again it was under warranty to Drew’s point. Thanks for watchin guys 😎🤙🏽

Glad it worked out for you! Sometimes ya gotta get creative! That’s a good point everyone is making about the weight of the wiring 🤙🏽

One can easily solder this board back to working order again I’m sure , however in this case the owner opted to replace it being the last year for the original parts warranty. 🤙🏽

I couldn’t see the broken places. What am I looking for? Really informative! Thanks

@@clayturnbull Circular cracks in the solder around the through pins. So basically the pins no longer are attached to the board.

@@clayturnbullthanks Clay! Yep exactly what Paul said . Around the circular solder joints look closer at the cracks - this doesn’t allow the 24 volts to pass through cleanly . When pressure was applied I basically reattached the connections - this is very common on your intermittent boards so keep an eye out! 😎🤙🏽

2 minutes to remove the old solder and fix those cold joints. If you have a new board in the truck then great, if not just do the right thing. People get so stuck on selling the part. Charm the customer by telling them typically you need to get a new board, but it just so happens you are qualified to fix this issue here and now. Don't forget to put a zip tie on that wire to support it.

glad someone understands the dilemma! haha

I’m constantly impressed with what a determined installer can accomplish 😂

Sometimes you gotta do what you gotta do as far as placement but too much condensate/flue issues along with no room for any major repairs in the future 😂🤙🏽 thanks for watchin

He’s cleaning an attic and since it’s so dirty he’s calling it a horror story and stuff

IYKYK - too many mistakes to list and NO I’m not cleaning the attic hahaha this is an HVAC reel 😎🤙🏽 thanks for watchin

@ oh ok

Appreciate you watchin! 😎🤙🏽

@@ServiceTechSonny where are you located?

@ I’m up in NorCal

Thanks Hector! 😎🤙🏽

Sounds like an issue with the damper for your 3rd zone - possibly it was wired incorrectly? Start by comparing the damper wiring for the upstairs zone to the other two and see if there is any obvious difference. If the damper uses 3 wires you can try swapping M4 & M6 on the upstairs zone. Is it always blowing when another zone is calling, or is it blowing during the purge cycle at the end of a call from another zone? The former is likely a mis-wired damper and the latter can be configured with the PURGE DAMPERS setting set to [UNCHANGED] in the HZ322 advanced settings.

⁠@@cvinci1thank you for your response. I will try and figure this out when I can get into my attic again. I never messed with the wiring of the dampers at all up in the attic or settings, which confuses me. Only wiring of the thermostat of the Zone 2 I believe if it is labeled correctly.

@@x3Myst3ry Good luck. It's also possible that the zone damper motor for the upstairs zone is dead so the damper is stuck in the open position. If you can access the damper motor, you can inspect visually and manually close it temporarily while you sort out the problem. If you're not sure what you are doing, a competent HVAC tech can probably get you sorted pretty quickly.

@@cvinci1 I was thinking it could be dead as well. Could this cause AUX heat to kick on by chance? For example.. I’ve had my temp set at 68 and inside heat is 66 but AUX heat kicks on when outdoor temp is between 40-50s. Which is definitely not normal. Especially when I’m calling for only 2 degrees higher.

Appreciate you watchin Stevie 😎🤙🏽

I agree man ! Stuff isn’t made like it used to be. -.- we just replaced it under a full warranty to keep the client happy. Thanks for watchin 👊🏽😎

Thanks for watchin Joe! 😎

Appreciate it! Thank you 👊🏽😎

That a good one Tony! Yea with the 2 stage you can run 24 to the valve but you gotta make sure it makes good contact on the valve . On a single stage valve it’s super easy to bypass and run C and R to the valve to test with some wires and spade connectors 😎

Yes. Particularly if the insulation is visible and the fibers are being disturbed by your movement when working in there.

Exactly what Jason said in the attics with insulation blown everywhere. Trying to last as long as I can and stay healthy in the trade

Must be from California. Everything causes cancer even breathing you own breath. Probably eats McDonalds for lunch.

I appreciate that Jon! Helpin with some tips for the next generation 😎🤙🏽 thanks for watchin!

Not bad at all! I’m in NorCal where abt 75% of the units are horizontal in the attics unfortunately

@@ServiceTechSonny I am in Arizona. Our air handler is in the attic also and in the horizontal position. However, I did create an area where you had some space to work and access to the unit comfortably . I’ve watched a few videos where it’s an absolute nightmare trying to get into a comfortable position to do some work. I don’t know why when our house was built a proper access to the unit was not created. Did the builders think these things would never break? I guess I should have said your space to work on the unit was better than many others I have seen on utube. As a viewer of the video and not being there I’m at disadvantage. At any rate it was a great video showing your organized method of diagnostics.

@ it amazes me how little planning goes into the space around the units so be serviced. You’re right it’s like the designer or builder thinks we can set em and forget em 😂 that’s good planning on your part to make that space available! I appreciate your feedback , thanks a lot!! 👊🏽😎

Thanks Steven! 👊🏽😎

Appreciate you hangin out! Thanks for watching 😎

Appreciate you man! 🤙🏽

Great way to find the problem, thanks for sharing