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Depends on what you want to get out of it and the price of the apple watch. This watch can't be compared to a newer generation of apple watch, but to be fair, depending on the apple watch those can be up to 10x more expensive than this one. Based on what I needed for and its price tag i like this one better. Et me know if there's anything else I can help you with 😀

it doesn't

So true

Yup. Always sees it coming a mile away. Lol

Yeah that little guy is something else.

Hi, tell me what’s the issue? Is the lens not focusing at all? Or is it hunting(struggling to acquire focus)

Be as detailed as possible so that I can try and help you.

Hi, I can give you some tips, but first can you tell me what type of night shooting you do? That way I can more accurately provide some tips and tricks

For fireworks and night shooting you need a tripod. For fireworks, use a shutter release cable or such and aim for shots duration from 5 to 10 seconds, low ISO (100/200), high f/stop (f/11,f/13...) and just shoot one after another to keep the best later, since you can't plan what's gone pop next, Often, your best pics will be the first ones since the more you go, the more smoke accumulates in the sky from the fireworks, so be in place and ready with your composition before it starts if you can... And think of your foreground/background if you can make it interesting. For city lights and night shot, same or almost, tripod, this time can use camera timer (or shutter release cable/IR etc.), and same, you want to avoid noise so since you're on tripod, low Iso, small aperture (big f/stop) for depth of field, and here you have to test, but most night scenes render well between 10 and 20 seconds exposure with these settings usually, sometime less, same here, play around with your scene, but 2 important things no matter what, the tripod AND camera timer or shutter release, because, although these are all long exposures, you'll kill the shot if any lens shake, even minimal. With big lenses, if on timer, I use 10 seconds rather than 2, as, if I just touched the camera, one would not believe, but 2 seconds isn't enough to clear all vibrations, and that's with a good tripod. There is more to these tips, but they could be some experimenting guidelines... I forgot, these tips are for full frame, but not much difference aside of maybe on the apertures that should change and be little less on APS-C, where I say f/11, f/13 maybe do f/8, f/9. Darn, there is one more thing, if you're on a tripod and timer, remove the VR, you'll get sharper results. (Wait, if you use the DX lens, you may have to go on Nikon's menu to disable/enable it, since on the DX lens version, you can't do it from the lens). Depending on your camera model, if you don't see the feature in menus, you might need to update the camera to its latest firmware. For ultimate sharpness if on DSLR, you could add mirror lock (or use live view which also locks the mirror). Now for the other question, I believe you mean blurred background with sharp focused front subject. Unfortunately, this lens doesn't open very wide and don't seem to have the best Bokeh either, but you can help that, the way to get blurred backgrounds at small apertures (higher f/stop) is to create or benefit from a good separation (distance) between your front focused subject and the background, while at the same time shooting your front subject from a relatively close distance. Your questions are 2-month-old though, so you might already know all that by now... Best of luck anyway...

Sounds like a valid argument 😂

😂😂😂

Depends what look you like. If you want and everyday use type of watch go with the Neutro. But if you prefer something sporty then go with the T32

If I had to guess, likely the lens sustained some internal damage. I’ve had mines for a while and haven’t had such issue.

@@herhim1636 thanks but I did a test with my lens. I set up different lenses at different distances the first one at 1.1 meters or the minimal focus distance. The second on at 2 meters and the 3rd on at 3 meters. I kept focusing between them and all of them were sharp except a few times I would have to reautofocus again. And just to let you know I was in a room with my blinds almost down. Everything seemed fine at 70-300mm. But I hear the entire while focusing at any mm a small noise. But other than that everything’s fine, I guess even the closeups at ~0.8m at 300mm.

Well, as long as your pics are coming out sharp that’s all that matters. 👍🏽👍🏽

@@herhim1636 ok thanks mate

😄 special little guys

Yeah they are a special kind of pup.

I have had Corgis for years. Actually, just got a puppy yesterday. Main word in my volcabulary now is "no". Just adore them

I’m glad the video was helpful 👍🏽👍🏽😄

It does, but with limited compatibility

😂😂😂

👍🏾

It’s not compatible with the D3200