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Glad I could help!

@@Red-cc4yl yup, the axis works too, but not every part has that in the model either. Any axis or cylindrical feature on the axis (like the screw head) will get the job done.

Here's the rule: you can't make a planar surface directly with a 3D sketch. I assume it's because Planar Surface is a 2D tool, so it's only looking for 2D sketches. So you have two options: 1. Just stick with the 3D sketch and use Fill Surface instead - this basically does the same thing in this case, but it works with 2D and 3D surfaces. Just note that your 3D sketch can only have one closed surface for it to work. 2. Create a plane using reference geometry from your 3D sketch, then create a 2D sketch on that plane and use convert entities to quickly put your 3D sketch on the sketch plane. This is one of the fastest methods for creating 2D sketches at weird angles when you don't have an existing face or plane to reference.

@@ARMYStrongHOOAH17 it's definitely a total game changer if your printer doesn't have a built-in offset adjustment!

@@grunwode you probably don't need to spend very much! Check out the Taig micro lathes, they start at under $400 and they're pretty capable machines for little parts like this. Otherwise, I'd be happy to take a look at your part and help you out if you don't want to invest in a new machine yet.

It's a variable power supply with fixed current setting. There's a link to my full length video in the description if you want to check it out for a more in-depth explanation! Also posted some useful product links there.

@@henrydelgado7104 no, it definitely works with 8.8mm too. I haven't used 11.7mm, but I know that it can handle regular labels up to 12mm, so I'd say it's likely.

@@schanerdesigns Thank you very much, the information is greatly appreciated.

@@jaimecruz7275 awesome, thanks!

@@davisabaoag953 I'm glad this was helpful, happy printing!

Great catch, thanks for calling me out on that! I was under the (incorrect) impression that sealing was only important for color, but further research indicates that it's critical for corrosion resistance as well. Looks like the recommendation is several minutes at 95°C/203°F or more, using distilled or deionized water. Interestingly, there's no mention of an impact on hardness. I soaked all of these parts in boiling water again just to be safe!

@@schanerdesigns You want to be sealing it, at 95C, for the same to double the length of time it spent soaking in the dye. Without the complete Sealing stage, the suface will be weakened and scratch/mark easily vs when it's actually sealed. Try doing a piece properly then compare to an older piece done wongly :)

Thanks, glad you enjoyed!

Thanks for the great feedback! I just updated the description to include some more info about the chemical process and the calculations involved. I hope that helps!

That's great advice, thanks!

Nice! That's a great idea. I was just thinking over the weekend about making one of those for the Y axis on my mill. Maybe I'll make one that works with the Y axis and rotary table too!

It's a solid carbide Thinbit insert that I ground to size, with a custom tool holder that I made for my lathe tool post.

It's a 6" rotary table, which just bolts to the T-slots on the mill. There's a link in the description. If you have a smaller mill, there are also 4" versions.

Yep, that usually works too! But if it's really stuck, you usually end up messing the key up a little in the process, so it's hard to get the pulley back on when you reassemble.

Thanks! 🤘

I bought a cheap welder a few months back, and I have no regrets. It's a lot of fun, especially if you have access to a lot of scrap.

Yeah, that's a great suggestion!

It's a NEMA 23 stepper motor with XL belt and pulleys.

That's what I keep seeing!

Thanks!

Lol these are not springs...

I wish I had some old garage door springs! That's great, I'll definitely keep that in mind for next time.

Exactly!

For sure! This was just a proof of concept and wasn't meant to hold up. Check out the more recent Short I posted to see the updated design!

@@schanerdesigns I will definitely do!!. Your videos are great 👍

@schanerdesigns and your RUclips short videos about those solidworks tips are amazing thank you so much!

@@crazyengineer470 thank you!

These are just manual controls for the motor drives. With the motors enabled, power will be applied to the motors to hold the current position. If you grab the pulleys and try to turn them by hand, there should be some resistance. When disabled, no power will be applied and the motors should move freely. I haven't experimented with these commands, but these would be useful if you want to manually move the plotter to a certain position and hold. Give it a try and let me know what you find out!

60%, with 4 walls.

I just updated the caption with product links!

For sure! I'm losing about 3/4" of travel on each end because of this right now, so I'll definitely change that next time around.

Thanks for the feedback, that's good to know. Unfortunately, it's impossible to change the audio now, but I'll be sure to double check for this issue on all future uploads.

It's in the description... Press the 3 dots

Yeah, probably a good idea to unplug the drill press motor for this!

It's powered by NEMA 17 stepper motors. The sound that you are hearing is a combination of the noise from the stepper motors, as well as the mechanical system (belts/pulleys and linear guide rods/bearings).

These is not currently a way to keep mates in a .step file (the file type simply does not store that information), but you should be able to import Creo assemblies directly into Solidworks. There should be an option to "import component constraints", which are the Creo equivalent to mates.