Видео

Pentair mastertemp 400 showing E2. Is this the solution?

I'm a retired contractor so pool equipment is new to me. The "no-clue" sensor you hooked up is the AGS, I think. You mentioned the ignitor sparks out at the end of it, but it's a glow type ignitor with no spark. Additionally, the ignitor serves as the flame sensor too. That was quite a frustrating and difficult diagnosis, but I tip my hat to any tech with your kind of patience. Good video, man. I have a friend whose Pentair 250 is down, so even though it's a Sunday I'm going to test sensors and thermal regulator. I don't use a parts cannon and 2 service companies (that replaced a part and didn't stay on it to get it fixed) has got me accepting it as a challenge. I'll bet I can diagnose it tomorrow. Tons of vids online.

Outstanding video!! And VERY helpful! This is exactly what happened to mine, including the rattling. Your video makes it immensely easier for me to fix it myself!

Thank you for this. For the diagnostic tech, that's an easy ten minute test to do, rather than blindly order a new one and hope it fixes it.

Can you show the best way to mount the thermal regulator on the spring?

This unit is garbage. Have a newer one just under four years old…new pool. Hardly use it and it’s had nothing but problems. As I type it it’s had two repairs and the light is back on and not working. Garbage

We've changed the hls thermistor flue stack sensor bypass and still get a service once hits 89 degrees.

Thanks again for another great video.

I've done the coil tubes on the mastertemp many times. It's always due to chemical damage. Low pH in fiberglass spas and inline chlorinators are a recipe for disaster.

I'm a pool repair guy. That inline chlorinator is probably what ate up the copper tubes because it sits higher than the manifold and drains down acidic water when the pump is off. Good trouble shooting.

Awesome video! And a great job videoing and working with 1 hand

Salt systems in pools will constantly ruin this part. Salt pools= good for humans. BAD for pool equipment and plaster.

I want one

New heater

Excelente!

I am having the same issue currently, however I have no rust inside my header. I took the bottom bolt of the manifold off and the water drained and was very clear. I plan to open it up to see if maybe its one of the seals on the manifold or if I need to replace the entire heater coil. Thanks for the video!

What a nightmare. I’m going to give this a try tomorrow

Mine turns on with heater light flashing . Heater fires then goes off . AAFS ERROR

So i changed mine out and now its leaking water can the manifold be damaged

Hello do you have to add lubricant to the plug

Mine showing 115 has only about 80°. I ordered it hopefully have it in tomorrow.

Thanks for that video. It was very informative.

Hey. My Heater runs fine for a while but then shuts off and I get a service heater light. No error codes. I checked the backside of the panel and no lights were lit. I believe it cycles back on again eventually, but I'm not sure. If I shut it down though it will fire back up and heat again but eventually stops. Any suggestions? Is it likely the part in this video? Thanks!

Cool video

What heated water is coming out luke warm and it never heats the pool

Pentair sucks.

Amazing video. thank you

Be aware that an airflow error may have absolutely nothing to do with airflow in any way. Mine showed an air flow error light and ‘service heater’ light. But nothing turned on at all. No blower. The machine can’t even sense an air flow error unless the blower is running because there’s no suction at the intake to activate the air flow switch until the blower actually turns on. So it didn’t make sense to me. Ultimately, the red wire to the blower motor was disconnected from its connection at the board. Reconnecting that solved all problems. All the info in this amazing video helped me trouble shoot it!

Not to be critical BUT the visegrips were on the gas pipe union backwards and no need for Teflon on the union threads as the threads are not the sealing surfaces. Looks good! 👍

How old was that exchanger?

Excellent and very informative video, thank you! I manage a property with 4 Mastertemp 400 heaters and I hate them. The old black capsule style ones seemed to be much better quality and last longer. These are not lasting us more than a couple of years, although it's due to being on the Florida coast. My main problem is the control boards get corrosion on them extremely fast and need replacing. I'm now replacing them all with Raypak heaters with the easily replaceable "ProTek Shield" anode to battle corrosion and they just seem far superior in my experience thus far. Thanks again for taking the time to do this!

Mine is stuck in that hole behind a black tab on the upper part. What solution to get that out

Thanks for your video

My coil won’t fit if I place first place the insulation soft insulation blanket on the bottom of the combustion chamber followed by the hard insulation board with the notch cut out over the lip of the combustion chamber. I see how this creates a perfect fit and how the hard insulation board then butts up flush against the face of the combustion chamber, but in my case, then the coil does not fit into that recessed area for it to align with the bolt holes for the manifold. If I pull the insulation and way and off that lip so that no insulation is taking up space in that recessed area of the combustion chamber, only then will the coil fit and align with the bolts with me having maybe 1/8” of play. Can you confirm you did in fact place the insulation on top of that lip in the combustion chamber per your note, vs having left it off in the video footage you shot? Thank you and others for any advice!

Thanks for this video. Even 5 years later, it helped me fix my own heater. It was completed stuffed with leaves and debris brought in by rats. After cleaning, the error lights would only come on one at a time. After fixing the E6 error by replacing the flu sensor, the PS light came on. After fixing that, the HLS light came on. After replacing that, the AFS light came on. Once I replaced the Air flow switch, the unit finally cleared and the fan and heater came on.

Thanks!

Wonderful video - just fixed mine and back in business. There are a lot of rusty bolts and corrosion in side the unit - not sure if I should be doing something or spraying something in there to help maintain. Definitely doesn't look like they used stainless parts. Also my HLS was filled inside with what looks like calcium deposits - does that mean I've got something wrong in my pool chemistry or is that a normal development over time? Thank you!!

Thank you for this! Great video!

Same happened to me. thanks for the video

Awesome 👏 just called

❤

Awesome video and great instruction on the replacement of the internal bypass valve which cause the heater to cycle on/off every 30-60 seconds and shows up as an HLS fault. I bought the manual bypass, new o-ring kit and the HLS (just in case - it was only $14 on Amazon) so for $54 I have a perfectly functional pool heater!

Thanks for the video! Might have to do this myself soon unfortunately.

Just want to say thank you! My 250 was reading much cooler than it was

What about a E01? I had mice in my box and I think they shorten out one of the red 240V converter wires.

Do you know how to change heater form Celsius to Fahrenheit?

Great video. Maybe you can help me. I changed the control pad because i was nit able to raise or lower the temp on the older pad. The new pad gives me the same trouble.

I have a Mini Max pentair and only has an Err code. Nothing else? Heater will not come on. Was flashing 88.8 and I replaced the pressure switch and the temp sensor switch. Now the 88.8 is gone but just have the err code and still will not come on? Any suggestions?

I got an E01 message months ago, replaced the thermistor and it worked for 2-3 months. Again the E01 message is coming up, and I replaced the thermistor but it's still not working. Could something else be the problem with that message?

Can I use a mastertemp 400 in place of a mastertemp 250?