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Thank you Artoflife.... I shoot MZ3 at box speed of ASA 3 and those posted here were all early morning or late afternoon / evening. Many of these were shot in morning fog. A tripod was necessary as, if I remember correctly, the exposures were of about 1 second wide open. The film stock is punchy, has a short exposure latitude, and I find highlights blow out easily - so I stand develop in caffenol CL to help control highlights and contrast. I think this stock would work great for sea shots in the right light and really have a unique look in that regard. I have about 20 rolls of this stock in the fridge and I really need to take it for a spin again soon. I should mention that this stock should be loaded in your camera in low light as it is subject to "light piping" which could ruin a frame or two of your roll. Best wishes and have a great weekend.....

@@JourneysEnd1750 Thanks so much for replying, I really appreciate it. I'm going to a (very remote) Scottish island in July and I plan on taking my tripod and a couple of film cameras with me. Unfortunately it's the time of 'dimmer sim' so there isn't really much in the way of night and dawn is about 3am and dusk is about 11pm! But I like the idea of experimenting with just waves and sky, of which there's a lot.. Thanks for the tip about loading and unloading, I saw that in the comments, so very useful to know. If I get this developed by my lab (as I'm a very inexperienced developer (let alone witfh caffenol CL) should I add some notes about asking them to watch the highlights? Do you expose for the shadows, or do you go somewhere in the middle? I'm wondering if I should just expose for the most important thing in the picture 🙂 I'm also wondering about reciprocity failure on this film but do you think I'd be okay up to say 4 seconds? Wondering if there's a table somewhere I can refer to... Jeremy Mudd quoted this on his website, "So for example, if I came up with the correct exposure of 10 seconds with my meter, then the best looking negative was a 40 second final exposure when allowing for reciprocity failure."

@@artoflifefilmsuk I've only shot this film with a reflective light meter that measures the average of the total scene. I would suspect that a spot meter may be a better bet but I don't know. I never tested for reciprocity failure rates for this film as I always tried to keep my exposures to 1 second or less so I didn't worry about it. I could not find any data on reciprocity compensation on line. That said, I think Jeremy Mudd's take on adding two stops for a 10 second exposure should be about right. That's where I would start anyway. Good luck on your trip.........Larry

I am not the woman making this but, I’m making some rn and rewatching to make sure I’m doing it right. I started with 1 1/2 quarts of berries and it yielded just a tad under 2 cups of juice. Hope that helps. (I wore gloves and cheese cloth. I wrung and wrung and wrung to get ALL the juice out. I worked that pulp til it was so dry). Happy canning. Edit. I just finished making it and 1 1/2 quarts of berries made me 1 pint jar and about 2 TBSP extra.

Thanks much......TLR's are wonderful cameras IMHO even with their limitations. Best wishes........

I hope you'll enjoy it as much as I enjoy shooting mine. Good luck and best wishes..........

Thanks Scott.........good luck shooting the MZ3. I have not used any for a long while and was just thinking the other day that it was about time to shoot another roll. I generally shoot the film wide open at a speed indicated metered for 3 ASA whatever the lighting conditions call for. I should mention to load the film in dim light as the stock has a tendency for "light piping" whereas light will travel along the edges of the film [ from the exposed leader] and run inside the canister causing what looks like light leaks along the edges of the frame when developed. I learned this the hard way. Caffenol CL is my preferred developer / stand 45 mins. Again, good luck and best wishes.

@@JourneysEnd1750 great thankyou so much for getting back to me great troubleshooting advice ,regarding loading etc ,been shooting pinhole this week, with my new acquisition, great fun cant wait to see results when home or you planning off maybe doing any more videos, id love to see them, anyway once again thanks, and all the best, Scott.

@@scottglendinning4669 I have thought about doing some more videos but I have such little time after messing around with still photography I keep putting it lower down on the "to do" list. Besides there are so many out there I don't know what I could add. I recently built a 35mm pinhole camera and I just may try a roll of MZ3 in it to see what happens. It may be interesting. Keep your stick on the ice!

@@JourneysEnd1750 sounds like fun building your own, really loving the zero imagine an old one, and the holga whilst staying with family , be great if u do make more but if you dont keep on enjoying what you do, all my best

No we have not.

My C3 has a metered prism viewfinder.

@@JourneysEnd1750 Thank you

Thanks Daniel- Mamiya made some nice cameras.

I decided to add sugar to it and made a sauce, great over ice cream or angel food cake

When you mash the soft berry material through the strainer you get a lot of the pulp along with the juice.

@@JourneysEnd1750 ty

Thanks much. There is something I should add that I recently discovered with this film stock. Light can travel along the film edges and can be drawn into the cartridge causing fogging on various frames. For some time I thought I had a light leak in the camera but it happened with several different cameras that shot perfectly with other film stocks. This said, remove the film from the canister and load your camera all under very subdued light to keep this from occurring. I've corrected my "light leak" problem by doing this. Happy shooting. I really enjoy the look of this film stock.

@@JourneysEnd1750 hello thanks for that, I got this film from conspiracy of cartographers he runs a unique website about analog and he also handrolls it for sale and he mentioned that it has a light piping problem. I remember to load it in a dark laundry room and I'll probably take it out of the camera in my dark bag. I'll let you know how it goes. I have some film related content on my channel as well if you'd like to check it out

If you click on the description it pretty well explains the film used. Fuji Acros 100 has to be the top on my list for film stock - hopefully Fuji will get their Acros II out soon.

JourneysEnd1750 thanks!

Thanks Bill. I would like to post some more videos in the future. Sadly life has a way of interfering with my plans far too often. All the best - Larry [I've binged on Joe's videos too. I have to credit him for my interest in pinhole photography]

@@JourneysEnd1750 understood. my wife and I are of an age where you never fully know what's around the corner. about to purchase a pin hole undecide on the best format. wish you all the best as well

@@billhackley3540 I've made a few by converting regular film cameras that have gone belly up but I have to say that the Zero Image pinhole cameras are just beautifully made and perform wonderfully. Pricey however. This link will take you to my flickr pinhole albumn, the camera / film used is listed in the description with each photo. Good luck. www.flickr.com/photos/journeysend1750/albums/72157697898002442

@@JourneysEnd1750I saw some of those researching pinhole images in general. but your site got me thinking. I wonder about converting my spare mamiya rb67. thanks for the tips

Thank you Bill. Best wishes for the New Year.

I'm not sure. The film is rolled off bulk reels by Film Photography Project and is an eastern European film stock to my knowledge. But no expiration date is noted.