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If I would put magnesium and zink anodes on the car, does the car have to be grounded?

Just to be sure I got this right, are you recommending that bow thruster cables be sized for 10% voltage drop rather than the max 3% I’m applying everywhere else? Was this discussed in the Boat Electrics courses?

Why not supply power to the thruster or windlass as normal through an appropriate breaker but then put the switch on the return side, I.e. after the load to take advantage of the reduced voltage and therefore arcing? Toyota commonly do this in their vehicles.

Just note that the text on screen said the wire was 4AWG (25mm), but they were talking about 4/0 or 0000 AWG (120mm)

Thanks.. Some good advice, including potentialdamage when switching at full load. Much appreciated,

Great information!

This channel is a breath of fresh air - genuine expertise instead of self-proclaimed experts that flood RUclips with misinformation. Thank you!

Again another excellent information video!!! Thankyou for sharing 😉🙃😎 NZ

The protection of electronic resources within a GRP yacht is a very difficult thing. The military (Navy) spend many millions protecting sensitive electronic resources within a steel warship. I believe that one of the best methods of protection of electronic devices on board is to have the ability to safely sail the yacht using time tested method of sextant, time piece and paper charts. Bruce

In addition to visual. I recently replaced cord ends and power strips because they were getting quite warm.

So, if I understand correctly, no fuse between panel and controller. There is a fuse between bus bar and battery, and you should also put fuses between each controller and the bus bar.

Hang on a bit. Shouldn’t all metal shafting ect be earthed? That positive leak would have taken the least resistance back to were it came from. Not the sea and taking the stainless rudder post with it. Earth strap everthing would be and should be the lesson here. Leakes will happen no matter how cleaver you think you are. YES????

Dang! I had no idea. Interesting.

Electricity is cool, and crazy. The way it can eat anything over time is pretty impressive. Either spend the money to do it right, or spend more money to troubleshoot, repair the damage and redo the circuit.

Hi! Thank you! Could this stray current be detected as a consume via a shunt? I mean shutting all off there must be no consume at all. Thank you.

Hey guys! What basics????? You didn’t say anything about mast to keel connection, size of wire needed, amount of metal exposed underwater, the pros and cons of bonding metal fixtures together…. I don’t know a lot about lightning protection and I didn’t learn anything about how to protect the hull and the people. All you talked ago was how difficult it was to protect DC electronics. Please put out a basic info session!

I am an advocate of "KISS" I have had a Lifep04 bank on my boat for ten years , I do not have any lead acid or any type of start battery . When and if my batteries hit LVC point there is still plenty of power in them to start the main engine and generator . I have a dual buss bar system , if the house disconnects the engines are still connected. This event has only happened once in ten years (I was vacuuming and didn't hear the warning buzzer before disconnect) The generator started up with no problem and charged up the batteries in no time. Also have the same bank driving the bow thruster , my bank is at the base of the mast and its only a ten 15 foot run with the bends to the thruster , I just spent the money on the cable , its twin 0000 Ancor , negligible voltage drop .

Wonder if Natalie Wood knew this stuff.

I would pay massive amount of money if there was any natural gas fuel cell power generators available. where i live, cng fuel or natural gas is dirt cheap like 1 cent per kilogram. I don't care about efficiency. i just want that quietness it gives you. And offcourse, NO MOVING PARTS. imagine having a camper that has a virtually silent generator thats reliable, cheap to run, ellimination of expensive and impractical solar energy, can run an air conditioner silently not with a honda generator thats not silent.

This drives me crazy. On a boat that cost hundreds of thousands why not have the manufacturer spend a few hundred more to install the best, long lived thru-hulls. After all, a bad thru-hull can sink the boat this us a potential is a life safety issue. . This stuff never makes sense to me.

New subscriber here! 😃👋

Great information! Thank you

Had no idea, scary! Thank you for your effort

How do the composite/plastic fittings hold up to UV? Every vessel I've seen 10 yrs old or older with plastic drain fittings the plastic has deteriorated to the point of near failure? I've always made it a practice to change above waterline fittings with stainless and below with bronze. I've always had a fear of shearing the plastic ones off if striking an object. In the Chesapeake Bay there have been significant issues with submerged or partially submerged debris from laregs Susquehanna dam releases.

1981 Bristol 45.5 with all her original Wilcox-Critteden Bronze tapered cone thru hulls . Just serviced them all (13) and they are in great shape . They are all bonded and open and close with my fingers and don’t leak a drop. Should I be concerned ?

Very interesting! I will be replacing all of my thru hulls/seacocks very soon and have not really settled on the to bond or not to bond discussion just yet. It seems like there are pros and cons to each approach. I was looking into some of the higher end Groco Thru hulls and valves lately and they are now cast from C84400 Bronze which I believe is up to 15% zinc. My understanding is that this metal should last a very long time in the marine environment. With all of these valves having either a chrome plated brass or stainless steel ball and shaft, is there a concern of dissimilar metals here similar to a prop and shaft situation?

I love your presentations.... and fully intend to start this course soon. I am a marine surveyor ( my passion is steel corrosion - ues I AM a geek) and I live on an iron riveted 1905 dutch barge on the Thames Estuary. Whilst I appreciate a lot of people have grp, it would be nice for you to mention the differences between grp and steel hulls, with regards to grounding and bonding. I hope I get to correspond with you more when I start the course!

Whahhooo !!! I've practiced and preached this for years and this is the first time I've heard it confirmed 🤗 (I don't get out much) l first started questioning why on 24v trucks does the same battery die first and give such a different load test result....... And how in second hand power walls the similar same result ........ I've rotated the order of assembly but never thought to equalize as you've explained 🙃 thankyou for making this video !!! 😉🙃😎 New subscriber NZ

Is voltage drop an issue? On my boat its about 18 metres from engine to bow thruster. I charge mine using an AC charger. I am wondering which method would be more efficient.

Nice topic - thanks. FWIW: I have a VCR (relay) between my lead acid starter battery and my 300ah LFP house battery. (I can enable/disable it via the relay on my Victron BMV 712 battery monitor so I can control/restrict combining). The alternator is connected to the starter battery. I had planned to purchase a B2B charger but I was surprised to never see a huge current flow between the battery banks when they were combined. My starter battery is never below 12.5v and unless I'm down to 10% my LFP house is above that. Perhaps it's not an 'idiot proof' setup but the voltages generally are within 1v at the battery terminals and factoring in voltage losses though 1/0 cabling and lead battery the current flow never exceeds safe values or even values stressful for the batteries. I only have a 100amp alternator but if I was going to size up I'd likely look into connecting the alternator directly to the LFP house (& install a protection device) and keep the starter topped off with a small B2B charger.

Thank you!

Thanks but where can we buy such probes in Europe?

Great info as always. Thanks

Very interesting, never thinking about "overprotection" effect before!

good infos!

Always fascinating!

As I understand it, the risk of blowing the oversized fuse is negligible, if the starting motor is functioning correctly. However, if there is a short circuit (in which case you won’t be able to start the engine anyway) it will prevent a fire from getting started. Correct?

BTW: alot of people building aluminum catamarans currently(world cruisers, etc)

Please do a video on propere protection for aluminum hulls ; and related power plants installed.... Keep mup the your GREAT WORK!!!!

Great explanation. I bet 90% of boat owners with sail drives do not even realize this.

I have a 32 ft cabin cruiser with a portable generator. I s there any saftey precautions i need to take? Check? New to boat not sure if i even have any of those items. It`s a 1987 wellcraft.

Yes, bolt on aluminum anodes are available.

There is a near universal acceptance that climate change exists but close to no agreement on the actual cause. As an engineer I greatly respect, i recommend you check out the research of Professor Valentina Zharkova, who has made the most progress on this question.

A few hours out of Puerto Vallarta, heading offshore, and i thought I could smell something burning (or maybe smoldering). Decided to turn round and investigate and, after a few days of investigating found an insulation breakdown on the starter circuit (due to a previous owner installing welding wire). As you say, no fuse on that circuit but even if we had one, i doubt that it was yet at the point where it could blow a 100A plus fuse. Havent installed a fuse (yet) but did install a simple high capacity on off switch, to isolate the engine (starter + alternator) from the start battery at all times the engine is not actually in use.

Brilliant idea.

Hello Nigel und Jan, I'm having a problem with Stray current on my boat.It's a Jeanneau Merry Fisher 895 with outboard motor.Would a Isolation transformer help my problem?Nice Greeting from Castrop-Rauxel Germany Adam Barnes

Hi, I want to replace halogen bulbs with LED on my boat. Any suggestions were to buy them, somewhere that they are good quality? Thanks

For years I've been starting my 2006 90 hp Honda outboard with two Battle Born 100 AH lithium iron phosphate batteries in parallel. They also serve as the house batteries. The outboard cranks rapidly and always starts well, within about 5 seconds. A few times I've accidentally started the motor with only one of the batteries and I noticed no difference in cranking speed. (These batteries aren't designed for inductive loads. When I tried using them for my 3 hp electric kicker motor, they shut down after about 15 minutes).

I did not want to mix LIFEPO4 with AGM so I went with Dakota Lithium "dual purpose" batteries (three 135AH batts; very expensive) for my 35' sailboat with 3YM30 Yanmar. It cranks it quickly and easily and I keep one side (2 of the 3 in parallel) for the house and one one for the start, and I switch them back and forth to work them somewhat equally. I have had them for a year now with ZERO problems. I do not even think about them anymore, really. They just deliver the power! I keep them topped off with 300 watts of solar on the deck. I can now run refrigeration full time. The BEST thing about LIFEPO4 batteries is I NEVER have to be concerned with topping them off to prevent premature murder! If I charge them to 40% or 80% or 100% --- it makes no difference!!! People talk about all of the other reasons for lithium but this is, hands down, the NUMBER ONE reason lithium is a game changer!! I was thinking that issue could be a good video for you guys to make in the future.

Thank you Jan and Nigel for being awesome people. ♥️♥️