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Interesting. Sounds like inspecting the starter motor in the manner you described (assuming you have one that allows disassembly) is a good yearly task.

Nowadays one can get devices that measure the internal resistance of a battery. This is a good indicator for the health of the battery. Depending on the price they added menus to select different battery types. These testers load the battery with a short pulse of high current and measure the voltage drop during load and calculate the internal resistance. The tester works on the principle of CCA. Cold Cranking Amps. It is not fail safe but if you have some batteries to compare to you can find bad batteries quickly. When a good or new battery has an internal resistance of 3 mili Ohms and yours has 6 or 7 mili ohms the ability to supply current to your system or starter motor is halved. You will also be surprised how much longer "maintenance free" batteries will last when you check the electrolyte level regularly and top it up with distilled or demineralised water.

I had the same problem. It was my battery charger with a bad "Crest Factor" . It was a Mastervolt 24V 50A charger. It was on a 6A shore power connection that blew after a couple of minutes. The charger drew pulses of 10A only in the peak of the sinus wave.

...And if the starter spins reliably, but only intermittently engages the flywheel and drives the engine, is there anything else to try than greasing the bendix?

Viewed twice and never heard whether or not the sac anode could be used as a grounding connection. Did I miss that?

Perhaps using a thermal camera might help isolate the problem?

Thank you

Never answered the question. The average boater doesn't have a sophisticated system like Nigel

Thank you, that was indeed helpful!

Alcohol spirits burner, that's my choice. But i use it only a couple of weeks a year.

What's the impact of induction to the magnetic field of the boat?

That’s what I’ve done years ago ripped out the gas cooker now use electric

I use to work on multi million dollar motor busses and they all had electric appliances. They all had great big generators and the owners were rich and many of the stoves were never used.

What is Nigel’s battery set up? 12, 24 or 48v, and total size (number of batteries and capacity of each). I too am thinking of doing this on my Beneteau473.

4 years with a 48v system on Razzle Dazzle. It’s wonderful. Cooking, watermaking, everything, easy.

Most cheap meters come with cheap PVC-insulated leads, which are stiff and difficult to work with. Silicone is a lot easier to work with.

Nigel surely you should get your terminology right. You mentioned you had a Lithium Ion battery @ 0:38 unless I am very much mistaken you have a Lithium Phosphate battery right? Thanks

My understanding was that you don't need identical lengths on all conductors, you just needed identical paths. If, for example, you had four batteries, where two had 1 foot conductors on the positive side and 2 foot conductors on the negative,, while the other two had 2 foot positive and 1 foot negative, all the paths would be the same length with the same resistance.

I'm refitting a boat. The propane stove was shot, so I pulled it. My intent is to build a gimballed box to fit in the space with induction burners and a combination air fryer/convection oven/microwave oven. In the meantime I have the burners and oven plugged into my wall outlets in the kitchen and I've been cooking exclusively on them for most of a year, and on one additional device - an Instant Pot. Oatmeal, soups, stews, and even Sous Vide steaks, cooks more easily in an Instant Pot than in a pot on an induction burner, and uses less electricity.

The opposit of keep it simple ------.

We have been electric only for years! In fact the boat we have now was splashed in yr 2000. And has allways been fully electric re. coocking, no propane on board. Our microvawe is installed according to manufacturers spec., and works brilliant. And we have an induction top. In short, no issues at all.

I did this a few years ago . Three induction hobs and commercial grade countertop convection oven that I dissembled and upgraded the insulation with aerogel . This enabled me to achieve a 30% duty cycle . The oven holds the heat and the cooktop only heats the pans . This I built into a fully gimballed unit that fits in the same place as the old unit .

Great courses. I have both electric. Thinking about the mechanical.

Get rid of Propane on the boat. Your life will get better.

The statement that you can only get a range of 7 nm is just plain false. Just slow down a couple of knots. Many systems out there now are easily capable of 5 hrs or more cruising at half throttle, so if it’s 7 knots max speed then you can probably cruise at 5 knots for many hours. By the way, Conrad Coleman is nearing the end of a Vendee Globe circumnavigation using strictly solar and hydro generation. (Now, to be fair, he is of course not motoring at all.)

Has there been any new developments on this front? It’s 2025 and I haven’t heard the battery storage capacities doubling yet… Volvo made (makes?) a hybrid volvo car but if you think about it, that’s what a diesel generator with electric motor is with the addition of solar (that seems to have doubled in production btw) and a regenerative prop, you might just get the right balance both for long distance open water but also at anchor (prop could get some miliAmp hours from tides/currents). Diesel usage to drive the motor only when you need speed or can’t use the sails…

Could the boat also possibly be over propped?

My boat starts fine during warm temps. Hit when below freezing the boat starter will not engage. Solinoid was recently changed. It’s an outboard motor Yamaha 50tlr Any ideas

My boat starts fine during warm temps. Hit when below freezing the boat starter will not engage. Solinoid was recently changed. Any ideas

They can put an ounce of Fuel Right 15K into the oil sump for a season and it will desludge the sump.

Black smoke and low max rpmcan also be an indication of late injection timing.

Never leave it alone, pull it apart and figure out how it works then pay a professional £££ to put it back together 😜

You said, "Turning down the Current Limiter to 10 Amps, does *NOT* fix the problem". But then you claim you are tripping a 16 Amp Circuit Breaker. These two sentences cannot both be true. Someone needs to actually measure the Amps and provide some truth.

I had an RV that had a gas fridge that would switch to 110 v after 2 minutes

For 34 ton vessel with marine diesels up to 2400 hp what is the best setup with turbo chargers? Here are two examples of two stage turbo chargers; 1. A diesel electric locomotive ruclips.net/video/cIQ0yIZgQeE/видео.htmlsi=rR6b9Ybgn5lZ5xeG (Its interesting to see how they deal with sulpher etc in the exhaust). 2. A large diesel for a large vessel ruclips.net/video/5mFmCxOjY_A/видео.htmlsi=8yf9Hp7H2cHGcHkFthey even have to crank it at first to make sure oil is covering the cylinder walls etc then crank it with compressed air to get rid moisture etc before turning on the fuel. How do normal small marine engines avoid these startup complications?). What is required to test the quality of the fuel? What is the best way to filter the fuel and have an alarm if doggy fuel is detected? Are these dual turbo chargers variable? As far as cooling the diesel is it possible to have an alternative cooling system which can switch from sea water to an air radiator for a vessel which is amphibious (Bluebird ZIL 6 wheel amphibious vehicle for space capsule and cosmonaut recovery for the Soviet Space program) or a plane (Junkers Ju-86P was a diesel powered plane made by Germany in WW2) that can leave the sea? Thank you for your answers to my questions. Regards Philip North Jakarta

AC current clamp meters are pretty cheap, I'd start going through the circuits. As you say the fact that the breaker blows faster the second time suggests a high constant load rather than momentary. However, it might be, for example, an AC or refrigeration compressor starting up and providing the straw that breaks the camel's back.

Fuel Right only seems to be available in the US. Do you know of an equivalent product in the UK?

I think Nigel meant to say that stray current (say from a bronze seacock) attacks all the anodic metals, including the zinc. Please correct me if I'm wrong

Absolutely wonderful course. Worth every penny !!!! This fills a real need in the boating community. Thanks you guys.

I'd suggest, don't use fuel from marinas, because they use the cheapest fuel available. I fill up with brand name fuel from a car fuel station ( and not supermarket fuel ) to get the additives they include. Yes to a clean fuel tnak, yes to fresh filters, yes to biocide and a full tank if you're storing for 4/5 months. Touch wood, not had problems.

In colder climes, the thought was always fill the tank at end of season so you don't get condensation in your tank . Thoughts?

What product (detergent ? ) would you recommend for cleaning my aluminum tank ? It looks clean but for some easily remove slug at the bottom. What if I can't access the tanks without cutting the boat in half ? I highly recommend the boathowto engine course.

I have almost completed the diesel course and would highly recommend it, even for those (like me) that know a bit amount about diesel engines.

My 25 Year old stainless tanks are still fine, my concern would be cracking around the welds rather than corrosion. I am not a fan of the standpipe arrangement, better to take the fuel from the lowest point of the tank and get any water or crud out into the filter bowl although I know this is not allowed in some places.

So what do one do with a leaking aluminum fuel tank, other than don't pump the dirty water in the bildge overboard ?

Its very easy...they sell drop in replacements on Amazon for cheap

Hilarious and a tad worrying😂

If a tank casually corroded, I'd rip it apart and replace it with a small header tank and a bunch of smaller sealing tanks to pour.

Plastic tank 100%

Read your engine instructions! Some diesel engines will experience hydro lock if the diesel tank level is above the injectors. Aluminium tanks will over time corrode if diesel quality is bad, i.e. water in diesel. Aluminium seems to have a life span of 30 years or more. My carbon steel dieseltank is now 25 years, and zero corrosion. My AISI 316L diesel tank is 30 years and zero corrosion.