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Hi Levi, great question. Yes, but until they get to know you, your ME degree might make them wary (they might wonder if a CE-type path is a fallback for you as an ME,) but as you grow in your career your major starts to matter less. I got an ME degree, and in addition to machine design I am able to do very structural things, like teaching civil engineers at my local university and stamping construction plans on the side here and there. Anything is possible!

@@McGuireMechanism That makes sense. Did your experience working in Machine design count as PE worthy experience? (I know there's typically a 4 year requirement in the workforce). I currently work developing simple machines as an intern for a manufacturing company but I don't know when the projects would start to count as PE experience.

@@levi64679 Yes, but the typical 4 years of experience assumes you have already secured a BS degree, so an internship (prior to your BS degree) wouldn't count as time toward your qualifying experience. There are other paths, however - for example, in Oregon, without a degree you can still obtain a license with 12 years of qualifying experience. Your state board of examiners for engineering should have a breakdown of what is acceptable.

Haha good question! In order for ONE lbf to equal ONE lbm, the constant is a clever way to cancel out the 32.2 and bring the units from mass to force.

Thank you, Matthew! Very nice note. It will be good to arrive there together. Good luck with the soldering tip!

My pleasure, Vladimir!

Hi Lisa - it is in the description. From the DIY Rainwater Collection page on my website, you may click on the drawing thumbnails to open and download drawing PDFs.

Great question. If it is a carriage bolt, there should be a nut threaded onto it. Remove that nut, then tap or pry the threaded end to push out the bolt. Use a piece of wood against the bolt itself to avoid damaging the threads. If you don't have enough room to tap or pry the threaded tip, after removing the nut, you may need to apply a special removal technique like I show in these two videos linked below. Good luck! ruclips.net/video/-BYQVypZoCI/видео.html ruclips.net/video/imAnhvgqs5I/видео.html

Haha thank you! Great to hear from you. Yes, I still use my old dumb phone. I like being able to disconnect :)

Thanks, Mitzi!

You're right! There are lots of good designs out there. Part of the puzzle is working in different material constraints. For example, for HPM01 we determined to use only materials from our local scrapyard, to show these can be built using junk parts.

Thanks Mitchell! My pleasure

You have a bourbon hangover in a power outage. You drag yourself to your bicycle generator to distill more bourbon.

It appears someone takes his first steps at humor 🤔

@@zoladkow baby steps!!

@@DaveHanna 😁👍

Great question! I don't have good data, but my understanding is a direct chain can bump up efficiency by 5~10% over a friction drive (ballpark from 85% to 95% mechanical power transfer, ignoring losses in converting to electricity.) In hindsight I'm wondering if the simplicity of the friction drive outweighs the marginal improvement of the direct drive.

​@@McGuireMechanism I was thinking the same thing. By the time you get the chain swapped over and everything hooked up for direct drive maybe the friction drive would still be worth it since you can just throw the bike in and go. Would be an interesting thing to calculate over a certain time period!

@@BenJohnson-sm6ex For sure man. Good call!

I have a massive collection of standard and custom sprockets from my scooter business. Unfortunately, my entire shop melted in the neighbors tire fire last October and I lost almost everything...except the sprockets which are just rusted from the fire fighting efforts. These sprockets are for #25, 1/2" bicycle, #35, 8mm, #40, and many others. Many custom hubs because I had a mill and lathe to just make what I needed, which also burned in the fire. I can't sell them at retail because of the rust, (some are stuck together in plastic bins) but I would gladly sell them all to someone who needs them. I would give them away if I weren't broke. I can send some pictures and if interested make a deal on the entire collection.

😂

Great question! No, the sizing is correct as specified. The 3/4" dimension of the 3/4-14 NPT hole indicates the inside pipe diameter. Accounting for the pipe wall thickness and threads, the 7/8" pilot bit is SMALLER than the major diameter of the 3/4" NPT hole.

Great question! In steel construction, yes the second method (clearance hole in the top plate) is far more common. The fastener in your case is clamping the two plates together. By virtue of having a clearance hole, the screw pulls the bottom plate up as it tightens. If the threads are forced into both top & bottom plates, then their relative positions are set and they cannot clamp together without the threads "fighting" between top/bottom.

Great question! Try tying your shoes using only your right hand (just keep the lace in your left somewhat tight, straight up or off to the side.) This way, you start with a familiar application. By muscle memory, you might see how your right hand just loops its lace around your left hand's lace, then underneath itself, then tightens to the left. It's the same idea with a trucker's hitch shown here, only the lefthand "lace" is tied to an anchor point.

@@McGuireMechanism I'll try this, thanks!

Thank you for the nice comment! Good luck wrapping up school.

Nice & simple!

My pleasure, thanks Richard!

Thanks Holly! Good luck this November!

Thanks Julie!

Thank you for the nice comment!

@@McGuireMechanism I wanted to state another warning from the UK. Our plywood still comes in 4 x 8ft sheets. In metric this is 1.22m by 2.44m. The drywall manufacterers here in Europe have, in their wisdom, decided to make their drywall sheets a simpler 1.2m by 2.4m, which is about an inch smaller than the imperial plywood. This means that when the carpenter comes to layout his studs, he has to make them fall an inch shy of a full width of plywood in order for his drywall joints to fall on a stud. But now all his plywood sheets have to be cut down by about an inch in order work. All because the metric system hasn't been developed out of any practivcal application, and so they're bending the practical to fit their abstract idea. Another note and then I'll stop. A regular internal door is still 6'6" by 2'6" but these are sold as 1981 x 762mm. Everyone remembers the imperial dimension but not the metric (for obvious reasons) but some carpenters, siduced by the "metric now" propaganda, have got themselves metric only tapemeasures, so you literrally hear guys asking "how big is a 2'6" door?"

@@briefoutlines4505 Nicely put. Such interesting examples! Haha and I just ran into a some rectangular tube (a hollow structural section) named HSS254x152.4x12.7 (254 mm wide x 152.4 mm high x 12.7 mm thick,) then after a calculation I realized that's just a standard 10" x 6" x 1/2"! And I just discovered your channel. Enjoying the thought experiments.

Haha good ear Rikki!

Haha thanks jimini!

Thanks, Louis!

Thanks for the clarification! Yes, I should have mentioned "average."

Interesting idea, Beth! I have heard of folks directing the overflow into aquaculture systems.

Thanks, Kathy! Sure is.

Very cool! Also a great idea.

Neat idea! Leakage hasn't been an issue yet, as the water seems to want to go straight down, but I will definitely remember your tip for sealing, thanks!

Thank you, Renee! One upgrade to this design is a quick pivot to access the screen filter. Here is a video for that modification: ruclips.net/video/Gbu9gWmTb2M/видео.html Best wishes on your new homestead :)

Hi Billie - taking a quick look, there are U.S. companies manufacturing rain water tanks. This example here is a budget DIY example, showing how you can use an $18 recycled drum.

@@McGuireMechanism nice, but they are kinda small. Here in Oz, 30-40,000ltrs is common

Nice, Bill! What a simple design. Thanks for the tip.

Yes! Great point! As long as they are connected in parallel, they can drain together through one spigot. I like my barrels to be modular, so if I wanted I could pull one out and I'd still have a complete system.

Thanks for the tips, Jozef! I see a Goodsell-Pratt pillar on eBay as I write this. Very cool!

I bought one of these back in 1989 and I am shocked at the price now exacted! A weak point is the arrangement for raising and lowering the quill which rapidly broke. The original is not a good design in my view and it looks like with my example they goofed up back in the factory. I am working on a solution with does not require a lathe but have a few points to tidy up. On the plus side, there is a 3/8" chuck and I had to replace the original springs: fiddly for an old guy but got there in the end. Another point to note is there is actually very little room to drill if using standard length bits. At a push, it looks that if you remove the little round table and remount the whole machine you could drill almost to the centre of the Earth as long as you have a bit long enough!!! Best regards - Jozef

@@jozefbubez6116 Haha that's interesting! Good luck with your upgrades. They sound pretty slick!

Thanks for the tips, T!

Interesting! So much to learn. I'm no knot expert haha - this is just one that I learned way back when and use all the time, so I wanted to share :) I grab synthetic or cotton ropes at 6 mm or 1/4" and swap them out when they start to feel flimsy or stiff.

@@McGuireMechanism I have tons of literature on mechanical advantage with ropes and knots if you are interested.

@@Roys_Rickhouse Thanks James! Maybe if you have a favorite author or reference share the name/title so I can look them up.

Exactly! Yeah thanks for the tip on burnout.