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After this video was made, the board had to be redone at least a dozen times over again. All that work was put into a followup video that came out a few months after this first one. There were a few additional followups as well - fixing up the old case, rebuilding the entire PC, maxing out the RAM, cloning to a CF card, installing a RAID card/SSD/Voodoo 2, cleaning and re-greasing the optical drives, etc. This was a fun project

Dielectric grease does not interfere with conductivity, and it does protect terminals and contacts from corrosion caused by humidity. While bending the pins may help apply some additional pressure on the contacts and make them work, it will not eliminate the pins themselves accumulating more corrosion - especially if the plating has chipped. If a plate of steel is exposed to humidity for enough time, it will begin to rust due largely to the moisture prevalent in the air. The rate of moisture present greatly accelerates the process of oxidization. If that same plate were shipped to a desert climate, the block could still look like new in a decade. If it were shipped to a wet tropical climate, it may develop severe rust in only a handful of years. If a tiny bit of oil is applied to the entire surface of the plate, the oil will act as a sealant that makes the steel much more resistant to oxidization - allowing it to last a lot longer. My line of thinking is that the Dreamcast's PSU pins were nickel plated to prevent corrosion and increase conductivity, and that this plating chips off gradually from friction - primarily from the power cable being frequently inserted and removed from the back of the console. Once the plating is chipped off in an area, it exposes the aluminum underneath, leading to oxidization. By cleaning the pins thoroughly, then coating them with this grease, it should help a lot to protect them from moisture and reduce the risk of scraping off more plating - all while causing no interference to conductivity. Your comment made me curious about how this Dreamcast was holding up. It's a few weeks short of 1 year from when this video came out, and I haven't taken it apart or tested it much since. I just did a blind test out of curiosity. It booted up with zero issues! I got an A level emblem in Sonic Adventure. I'm glad you were able to get your Dreamcast up and working again and I appreciate you sharing your idea here.

Hey, excuse me for the delay getting back. The Nomad in this video got corrupted multiple multiple times. It appears that MichellePucca found a working combo a few comments down. It's something that I've wanted to try and make a followup video for if I can find the time to.

I believe this laptop had an SSD in its optical bay. It's a SATA interface. I don't see why it wouldn't work. It's worth a try!

Thank you! I read up on the flag. Fortunately, for this video, I was able to install Debian with zero fails without the flag.

👌

Worth a shot! If you go into the BIOS, which revision does it say it is? Starts with an A, ends with a number (01).

Let me know if you try the above adapter, and/or SD cards and if you are successful. Do you still have an windows XP/2000 workstation with WMP that works? If you want the exact links, I could provide you a temp email alias (if youtube allows that).

That was a common occurrence with the Dreamcast in this video before the PSU pins were cleaned! Unplugging the power cable from the back of the DC, then plugging it back in would make it work for a few minutes. Then the game would crash. Turning the system on after, the DC would act like the lid was open (no startup animation).

Keeping spare SD cards is a great idea! Which SD card adapter did you use? All the adapters I tried didn't work, but SSDs worked great. Maybe the IDE socket on the player in the video is damaged?

I tried posting three times the urls to the parts I ordered off Amazon, but youtube keeps blocking my entire reply to you.

Adapter SD to IDE Adapter SD to IDE SDSDHCSDXCMMC Memory Card to IDE 44Pin Male Adapter Support DMA and Ultra DMA Mode for DOS B0CQ2WN941 128GB SD SanDisk 128GB Ultra SDXC UHS-I Memory Card - 120MB/s, C10, U1, Full HD, SD Card - SDSDUN4-128G-GN6IN B08GY61ZZN 64GB SD SanDisk 64GB Extreme SDXC UHS-I Memory Card - C10, U3, V30, 4K, UHD, SD Card - SDSDXV2-064G-GNCIN B09X7DY7Q4

@@MicheIIePucca Thank you. I'll have to give this a try!

Bro kitni frequency wala lgaya hai

@@ray3521 1333 Mhz

​​@@ray35211333 mhz 8gb ram hai vo

A 90 MHz PC would probably hold its own well running Icon-Do-It 2.0 with Win 3.11. Most of the same icons, works as far back as Win 3.0 and is even 286-friendly!

wow i didnt even know that software existed, yay for the modern internet :P@@gpr-garwoodprecisionrepair6256

Inspecting with a thermal camera is a great idea!

AV or power?

Glad to hear it's working! Did re-seating the ribbon cable help at all?

just changed today in 1600rps for 16gb

@@manshaurrahman3305 same here 12 g

@@mohamedyahia3844 what is 12g ....12gb of ram will not work

@@manshaurrahman3305 installed ram : 12.0 gb

Good question. The responses are polarizing. Some people swear by the stock PSU. Some people report running with a replacement PSU for years and having no issues. I've heard that modern alternatives like DreamPSU and PicoPSU deliver a more appropriate power load and less heat for Dreamcasts using GDEMUs. I've also seen complaints of Dreamcasts still having the same troubles or even dying completely by replacing the stock PSU with something else. As with GDEMUs, there are now apparently several clones of the PSU alternatives that may be of a questionable build quality. Multiple factors at play. Half the reason I have yet to replace the stock PSU is because it seems to work perfectly fine as long as the PSU pins on the motherboard are clean enough to make proper contact. All the problems I've run into so far seem to have stemmed from oxidization on the pins. It makes me wonder how many people thought their stock PSU went bad when, in reality, it was fine and they were just running into the same problem with oxidization that I've been running into. I know from experience that dismounting/re-seating the PSU without cleaning the pins tends to make the Dreamcast work for a little longer, just as unplugging the Dreamcast and plugging it back in tends to make it work for a moment. Perhaps that friction from dismounting the stock PSU from the pins and then mounting the replacement scrapes a bit of the corrosion off and allows it to work better? Perhaps some replacement PSUs combined with unchecked oxidization on the pins creates new problems or kills the DC outright? Hard to say without creating a lab with 2 dozen Dreamcasts and a variety of alternative PSUs. What I can say is that, while typing this out, I was curious how the Dreamcast in this video was holding up so I turned it on and played a round of Mars Matrix. Nothing extensive but it's still seems to be working well a month later. Here's hoping it stays that way.

Swap the barrel plug for a USB C PD port. Most systems use either 12 or 9 v adapters and you can set PD to supply that EZ. Then you can ditch the whole mess and remove another power plug you gotta manage from the collection. I'm in the process of swapping all of mine to it. You can get a sheet of the female boards for like 5 dollars US. Just be aware the soldering the jumpers is kinda tiny on em. Other that that they are cake and there are 3d files out there for the port to fill the slot and hold it in place.

@@lostapostle76 I recently learned of the Clean PSU which is USB-C, downside is finding them in stock.