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@@madcat4563 I'll chat to Dean and find out. This is his own scratch-built but extremely accurate replica. He talks about it some more on one of my other videos if you're interested, from about 32:12 ruclips.net/video/dtaw2HOIR-o/видео.html

Both of the original Hiluxes still exist and are stored in a secret, secure location. One is pretty much a crushed write off after the ‘roll flip’ stunt. The other one is mostly intact, but in a state of decay. My replica was built based on the originals, using a variety of sources and points of reference, including members the original build team at Weta Workshop. The biggest compliment I got was being told mine is better built than the originals 😂

It's not road legal. He had it brought up on a trailer for the show. But I agree, it's great to see a vehicle from more of a niche film.

Thanks for the encouragement How did you manufacture your Mando darts? Made on a lathe or another process? Do they add much weight to your costume?

I printed out the template first. It is a cross section cutout that comes with the model that allows you to do a test fit of the narrowest part of the helmet. It is a very quick print too. Fortunately it fit me perfectly, so I didn't need to scale the helmet at all.

Thanks for the info

I might give them another go. When I first started I used foam brushes but found they started leaving debris in the resin

Good luck and have fun!

Thank you! Cheers!

I'm using eSun brand eResin-PLA (Bio-Photopolymer Resin) Costs about $30AUD and I get it from JayCar electronics here in Australia. It's just resin you'd use for a resin printer - so any 3D printer supplier should stock either this brand or something similar.

@@downunderstormtrooper Nice, but.... are you adding baby powder as well? What is the purpose, and the ratio u use. I am using cyanoacrylate glue and lots of sanding to fulfill big gaps, or painting with thick primer for quite flat surfaces, and then lots of sanding. All the best

Oh yes! I'm adding baby powder. It helps thicken the resin and makes it much simpler to work with. About 1/3 of my cup is resin. But it's easier to add it little by little - until the resin is a thick syrup-like consistency. Make sure you mix it well too to avoid lumps of powder

Awesome. Will take a look!

Just watched it, that was great. Must have been a real struggle for the TKs in that terrain. Hopefully you filmed it in winter!

Word just in. Trailer should be released later this afternoon - there's been a slight delay

Yes, it's a separate molded piece

@@downunderstormtrooper I did the mod. way better like this!

Thanks for watching and the words of encouragement!

If you freeze my video at the 45 second mark you can see the final orientation in the time lapse. I essentially placed the bottom edge of the arms on the bed. I figured that would be the least seen edge if there were any issues, but TBH it came up great. My snaps came apart easily and didn't leave too much mess.

In regards to the tri-bumper, I think the most substantial part of the process that made a difference to making it less plastic was the UV resin. To the touch it felt very different once that was applied. More solid and heavy-duty. But yes, those several passes of sanding and weathering helped with this too.

One of the things I love about the GB community versus some other cosplay groups, is the level of customisation and freedom you can do. If you want a screen accurate pack, you can. If you want a completely custom pack, you can. For me, I'm sitting somewhere in between. I love the gritty look of the Afterlife aesthetic, but the wooden grip has never resonated with me. My personal preference was the old grip. I'm kind of intrigued by the look of the exposed booster on Phoebe's pack from Frozen Empire too. It adds some different texture - so I'm drawn to it. Maybe a future project.

Thanks for the tip

@@downunderstormtrooper I see your thumbnail has a respirator, sorry if my Monday morning criticism was unfounded.

All good mate. I put the respirator on before I started mixing the resin, but it would probably have been smart to wear it when cutting the sheets too.

From Amazon AU, but you should be able to get the same in ypur region: amzn.asia/d/baSobm9

The spray paint I used doesn't have a RAL colour reference. It's "Australian Export" enamel paint from Bunnings. Not sure how this pairs to your part of the world. It's not the correct yellow though. It needs more red. If you're an Aussie, apparently Autobarn has a better hazard yellow auto spray called "Hazard Yellow (Holden) DSH208

Great question. I was a little unsure too. TacoBelli-QPack-HasLab_3rd_Leg_Spacer.stl TacoBelli-QPack-HasLab-Bumper_Track-M6_Screw.stl (you need 2 of these) TacoBelli-QPack-HasLab-Bumper_Spacer.stl Q-pack-TacoShell_MK4.1_TRI_Bumper_THIRD_LEG_L_XL_XXL_ELSA.stl Q-pack-TacoShell_MK4.1_TRI_Bumper_THIRD_LEG_PEG_L_XL_XXL_ELSA.stl Q-pack-TacoShell_MK4.1_TRI_Bumper_THREEPARTS_01_REMOVABLE_L_XL_XXL_ELSA.stl Q-pack-TacoShell_MK4.1_TRI_Bumper_THREEPARTS_02_REMOVABLE_L_XL_XXL_ELSA.stl

Agreed! Definitely looks more realistic than touching up later. Thanks for watching

Perfectly. There are no print lines anymore. If you see any lines after your initial resin coat is laid, do a quick sand with 180 grit, clean off any dust with isopropyl alcohol and do another coat It doesn't even feel like a 3D print now. It's significantly stronger.

I'm using an Anycubic Kobra Plus. It has a great bed size for printing armour. The file is from Galactic Armory. Check out episode 2 where I walk through the files.

Were is the file from

Yeah - had issues with the microphone setup. I hope you persevered. Getting my sound setup correct is still a WIP - now have a wireless Rode which seems to be working better